mtnbikeman123

Yeah, I did use the oil cooler from my 255 the first time I did this swap and it worked fine. But then I changed to the newer gen motor and I gave away my old one so I didnt have a cooler to use

So for anyone using this thread as a resource, I changed the timing belt and water pump on this motor today. This motor was from an JDM automatic car (20x) so I guess that means I do not have the sandwich oil cooler under the oil filter (like the manual cars would) and the water pump does not have the extra nipple. I checked part numbers with the JDM diagrams and I bought water pump 21111AA250, this also crosses to many other USDM cars. The belt, tensioner, thermostat, and idlers are the same part number as the USDM cars. Everything fit, including the water pump, no problems!

update, car is for sale in classifieds. I don't have time for car stuff with a new baby. Price obo, just want to get rid of the car but I would rather it go to someone who cares than to carmax

You should note that the EJ25 timing belt kit I bought, the water pump is set up for the oil cooler where the JDM motors do not have oil coolers. I ended up swapping the cooler from my 2.5 motor so I could use the new water pump. I haven't done the timing belt in my new motor but I will have to figure this out when I get there, whether I want to swap the oil cooler or source a water pump without the cooler provisions.

In my car, I didn't have any open pins in the main connector block so I added a new waterproof connector that I zip tied next to the main block. The intake cam AVCS wires are already integrated into the harness, you just need to add the exhaust AVCS wires for the solenoid and the sensor. I ran the wires to my new connector, and then continued to run the new wires from the new connector through the bulkhead next to the main harness and then to the ECU. P/Ns for my order from Mouser. Deutsch connectors are expensive but worth it. You will also need a pin crimping tool if you go this route. I bought mine from Waytek Wire a while ago LINK 571-WM-8P qty(1) 571-WM-8S qty(1) 654-AT60-20-0122 qty(10) 654-AT62-20-0122 qty(10) 571-DTM04-08PA-EE04 qty(1) 571-DTM06-08SA qty(1)

Thanks for the info texy, sorry I forgot to mention that I got my information from you. Do you know what the power and torque ratings are from this motor, just out of curiosity?

Its been a while since I looked at this stuff but I think that on an 05 with the newer motor, if you use the 2 pin sensors, it should otherwise be plug and play using the US engine harness, injectors, and intake manifold. I've been out of the motor swapping game long enough now that I will be slowly forgetting everything I did here

So a quick update to my ongoing saga. I bought a later gen motor with the smog pumps(secondary air pump and valves) and U20 heads since I read that the U20 heads are more efficient. The smog pump will also let me pass visual smog checks in California. I also bought a twinscroll downpipe from yahoo japan via Aleado so I could use the OE twinscroll turbo VF47. The result is significant. I can run much more ignition timing than on the older gen motor, driveability is muuuch smoother, and I make boost sooner than with the OBXT/LGT turbo. If you look at the total timing maps from the stock ROM files, the years with the secondary air pumps and U20 heads run significantly more ignition timing that the older gen motors, which actually reinforces my personal experience!! I tried to use the aggressive timing maps with the old gen motor (before I knew about this) but ended up pulling so much timing out, the map ended up looking like the stock map for the correct old gen motor with old gen Z20 heads! The new motor with U20 heads and twinscroll was definitely worth the hassle. I haven't done any pure highway driving (thanks california traffic) but I expect to gain some fuel efficiency compared to the old gen motor. I am working through a couple of tuning things, I am trying to get myself to a DAM of 1.0 but I am still having some residual FBKC which has been frustrating. I think this is related to a metallic rythmic ticking sound that is new with this new engine. My last engine did not make this noise. I am thinking it might be related to my poor DAM and FBKC results. I have yet to diagnose it because it only makes the noise under medium load while driving, NOT at idle or light load while driving. I need a 4 wheel dyno so I can stick my head in the engine bay at speed......or I might drop it at a shop to have them troubleshoot. I am also working at running more boost and a more aggressive wastegate preload or spring to mirror some dyno results I found HERE Hopefully all this information is helpful for someone! Overall I am pretty happy with the motor and that my quest for dual AVCS, twinscroll, and smooth driveability has been successful. If anyone has input on my engine noise, that would be appreciated. I cant quite tell if it is engine speed related, engine noise drowns it out at higher rpms 3k+. It is not clutch or gearbox related. Maybe it is related to wastegate arm, a solenoid somewhere, avcs actuator, timing belt. Or maybe it is just that the twinscroll engine noises are different and this is normal?? All I know is that my previous motor and single scroll setup did not make this noise.

g0lds, I am not really sure what to suggest. I would certainly check that you have the exhaust cam sensors connected correctly. You could swap things left to right and see if the problem follows the sensor. Yeah, I wouldn't expect the JDM ecu to pass emmissions. My plan was to swap back to the US ecu if/when I need to get it scanned for emmissions.

Glad you got that figured out. I have been enjoying the 7500 rpm redline and the more linear power of functioning AVCS. It used to have a bump in torque at around 3-4000 rpm coming onto the cams but now its much smoother! Yay AVCS

I haven't run into this issue. Are you using the JDM engine harness or did you swap components and use the USDM harness? Did you do anything with the intake cam position sensors? I have heard that you can get a no-start condition if there is a fault in the intake cam sensors. I would probably trace the injector wires back to the ECU to ensure connectivity to the correct pins, check power and ground where appropriate. Not sure what else to suggest, sorry. You could try PMing Mondtster, he was helpful when I had questions.

At least the sensors I was using, the 3 wire exhaust cam sensors are not the same left and right. The mounting tab is offset by 90deg rotation so I had to use the correct sensor for the correct location.

Im not sure about the earlier gen JDM motor but the later gen JDM have TGVs so the later gen plastic case ECU will control the TGVs. I have confirmed that my TGVs do function while looking at data logs. This is straight from the wiring diagrams and pinout: LH Exhaust Cam Position: B134-31 RH Exhaust Cam Position: B134-12 LH Exhaust Solenoid +: B137-31 LH Exhaust Solenoid -: B137-30 RH Exhaust Solenoid +: B137-25 RH Exhaust Solenoid -: B137-24

L88, do you have a picture of this question? I can try to look at my harness to compare. Crankwalk, correct, I did not repin the ecu connector or use any type of adapter. The plastic case legacy JDM ecus have the same pinout as the plastic case legacy US ecus, at least for BP/BL applications. The JDM ecu uses some of the empty US pins for the extra functions. I am 100% CEL free with the one caveat, I disabled some secondary air codes since I do not have the pumps and valves on my early-gen motor. The later gen motors probably should function without disabling these codes since the hardware is installed on these later motors. SI Drive works as well. My ABS and Traction lights are still on and ABS is non-functional. I will look into this when I have finished tuning the car. In California where it doesn't rain, this is not an issue and I used to enjoy sliding around in the snow when I lived in the snow belt, but I can see that this might be an issue for other folks.

Well I have some good news for my car. Mondtster has been helping me and he mentioned that I should try using the manual transmission calibration/program in my ECU. My ECU is from a 2006 automatic car, using calibration ID A2UH000A. I downloaded the M/T calibration A2UG000B from Romraider forums LINK and flashed it to my car and it worked!!!! My P0600 is gone and now the car behaves much differently. I think the ECU was limiting throttle opening to 50% or less with the P0600 code present. Now I can build boost and the IAM actually changes and the FLKC tables populate in romraider learning view. Best guess is the A/T program was looking for the A/T controller and throwing the code and putting the car in a limp mode. The motor isn't very happy and is giving me quite a bit of knock, but I have put a little time into logging and modifying fueling and timing tables with some significant improvement. It seems like I will be able to get it into a good state if I can commit a few hours to logging and tuning. California gas Since I am using US injectors, I did correct the scaling and latency in the JDM M/T calibration. I will also need to change wastegate tables since I am using the VF48 and not the JDM VF38. Feels great to have gotten this far. The car finally makes more than 100hp! Thanks to everyone that helped!

FYI never detailed here how I wired the exhaust cam sensors but the sensors need power and ground, which I picked up right after the main engine harness connector and teed off the intake cam sensor power and ground wires (using wiring diagrams as reference). Then I ran the third signal wire along with the solenoid two wires into a 8 pin deutsch connector which I zip tied next to the main harness connector. At least in my car, there were no empty pins in the main engine harness connector so I had to add a secondary connector. L88M22VETTE, bummer, I have had these diagrams for a long time and I would have shared them. It seems we are in opposite positions, I really should have purchased a later engine that would have come with everything I needed. Though this was the purpose of starting this thread, so I could help other people with the things I learned and mistakes I made so they don't have to repeat this process. I'm not sure what to tell you regarding the sensors. I think I read that if there is an issue with the intake cam sensors, the motor might not start but it will start if the issue is only with the exhaust sensors... While in this process, I looked at photos and at my own motor and the tone ring on the exhaust camshaft at least looked very similar between the old and new generation motors, the only features are two notches located 180deg from each other. I figured since the only difference in the exhaust AVCS between the old and new motors appeared to be the type of sensor (2 vs 3 wire), the 3 wire sensors would work in place of the 2 wire and they do(with some modification to the mounting tab on the RH bank). It seems like your older car should work with a metal case JDM ecu and retrofitting the 2 wire exhaust cam sensors. I did not change the exhaust solenoids or cam gears since many of the part numbers cross reference for all model years, so I don't see a reason this wouldn't work for you backwards as it did for me forwards. Were you using the 2 wire sensors with a metal case JDM ecu? Based on my research, the metal case JDM ECUs use the 2 wire sensors and the plastic case JDM ECUs use the 3 wire sensors. And the two types are not really interchangeable, the pinouts for the two types of ECUs are very different, I'm sure you know all of this now though, sorry for repeating anything. I hated the thought of giving up on getting the exhaust AVCS to work just for the challenge which is why I am continuing to detail all of this work. Whether or not it is worth the effort is still TBD. Skeen, I bought the ECU pins from Digikey P/N A107011CT-ND LINK. Make sure you use small gauge wire, I used 20 awg TXL and the insulation was still a tiny bit too thick and I really had to jam the pins into the socket.

Im going to bump this... I am having issues with my IAM not increasing from 0.5. Not really sure where to look for issues now, AVCS is working and I have no other diagnostic codes aside from the P0600 that I disabled earlier in this process. Im thinking the IAM issue might be related to this but I am not sure. I did not have this code with the my US ecu. Anyone have any thoughts?

Diagrams shared. I don't want to post them, I'm not sure if that is against the rules here. Quick update, I found that I needed a different sensor part number on my RHS bank as indicated on the JDM parts diagrams. I was using 22056AA210 for both LH and RH exhaust cams but I actually needed 22056AA200 on the RHS. I had to modify the bolt hole location on the sensor but now I get cam position signals for both exhaust cams!! These are the 3 wire plastic case sensors whereas the sensors I removed are the metal case 2 wire as used by the older gen metal case ECU up to mid-2006 The AVCS does function but I'm still having a lingering issue now with the LHS. The cam seems to move at startup but as I run the engine for a few minutes sitting in park, the cam stops moving, all while the RHS cam functions as expected. Swapped OCVs without any luck. Haven't been able to do any more diagnosing but it seems like THIS might be my issue. Oil pressure should drop at startup as the oil warms, right? If the filter is semi-clogged, that seems like a reasonable guess. Will report back when I have fully functioning exhaust AVCS. To clarify for some other comments, this is my daily driver and I couldn't afford the time to source a later gen engine with the proper sensors and smog pumps, though I do wish I had done this now. I did not and still do not see these being offered by my local importers yet, but its possible if I had called around I would be able to find one, or at least an importer willing to source one for me. EDIT 1/8/2018 Replacing the entire LHS exhaust oil control valve assembly did not fix the problem (Overnight parts from Japan, if we have to...). Problem seems electronic rather than mechanical. From a cold start with no throttle input, the LHS solenoid will function and the LHS exhaust cam will activate okay from 7deg to 0 deg as the engine warms up. If I barely blip the throttle, the two LH and RH advance angles will match pretty well. But if I blip hard or let the revs slowly climb anywhere in the coldstart cycle while sitting the garage, the LHS AVCS will stop functioning and the engine will stumble(observed looking at data as reported in romraider logger). Pretty frustrated, I thought I was close to solving this... EDIT 1/23/2018 I found that I had mixed up the LH and RH oil control solenoids while wiring the cam angle sensors. I swapped the wires to the correct positions at the deutsch plug I added and the exhaust AVCS does work! I am still having an issue with the IAM not advancing past 0.5, working to get this sorted out...

FYI, I did the same thing cutting the pressure sensor from the pump but I saw no difference in performance. When I was running the US ecu with no fault codes, I did hit target boost (13.5?, I don't remember) with and without this sensor attached. I believe your wgdc should be 70-90%(I don't remember what the stock values are in the tables) when you are trying to make boost and 0%(open) when you are not. This seems like the reason you are not hitting target boost.

I intended to update when I had working exhaust AVCS but I am too busy at work to complete the last couple steps. I originally bought an 08 plastic case ecu but it was from a push button start car and couldn't be programmed successfully. I then bought an 06 plastic case ecu from a key start car and I was able to successfully have that programmed to the car by a local locksmith. I then ran into two CELs, P0600 Serial Communication and P0365 for one of my exhaust sensors. The car ran in limp mode with p0600 but after I disabled the code, the car came out of limp mode. The traction control and abs lights do remain on so I assume there is some communication fault but I am not super worried about that. The other code is for one of my exhaust cam sensors and I havent been able to trace the fault yet. It appears boost control and exhaust cam timing is being disabled while the error is present and my IAM is set at 0.5 so I really need to trace the fault in the sensors or wiring before I would expect exhaust AVCS to work. ********THIS IS IMPORTANT******** I will note that the plastic case ecus use a 3 pin exhaust cam sensor so I had to rewire my engine harness to use these. I bought units from an FRS on ebay and even though they arent the same part number as the JDM sensors, at least one of the sensors does appear to work with my ecu since I only get one exhaust cam sensor fault. ********************************* I did try to flash the JDM program to the USDM ecu but ecuflash would not let the operation complete. I did compare the circuit boards and between my 09 OBXT and 08 JDM LGT, the boards are very similar but there are a few missing components on my USDM board. This isn't the most scientific way to compare the two ecus but I would bet that the missing components are the push button start and exhaust avcs stuff. My car ran pretty well on the swap with the stock ECU with close to stock calibration but I had played with the calibration some before the swap. I did continue to see and hear some knock in the mid range under medium load with the US ecu, but with the windows closed I could ignore it. I dont remember which tables I changed to mimic the JDM ecu, I know I changed at least the intake AVCS and ignition timing, which I then modified to reduce knock. I would certainly check your WGDC if you arent hitting target boost. What downpipe are you using with the twinscroll JDM turbo? I would like to swap my turbo to the twinscroll unit but I don't really want to use an aftermarket downpipe.

A quick update, I sourced a 2008 JDM ECU and I also sourced the JDM wiring diagrams for the 2007.04+ cars, part number G2440JJ-CD from Yahoo Auctions Japan through Aleado. I confirmed that the ECU pinout is identical between my 2009 USDM and the later 2007.04 JDM cars(aside from exhaust AVCS and push button start communication pins) and I even plugged it into my car and was able to communicate with the ECU. The car did not start due to the immobilizer. I am currently trying to find a local dealer that will work with me on the immobilizer but haven't had much success yet. I am also worried since the ECU came from a push button start car, I may have further trouble trying to have the dealer program it to work with my USDM car without push button start. I did look through the wiring diagrams and it looks like converting to a push button start would be a gigantic pain, there are a few communication modules, relays, and wiring that would need to be added.

I did find the ADM manuals, although I believe in 07 the Legacy/Liberty switched to the EJ255, while the JDM retained the EJ20X. So unfortunately these manuals arent helpful. I have coworkers who can read Japanese, even with some friends in Japan, but they have been unable to find electronic downloads. I found a paper manual set for sale for $300, but that seems excessive...

This is the issue, the 06 JDM/US does not line up with the US 2009 at all, they are completely different pinouts, and I am unable to find the diagram or pinout for the newer 08 09 JDM cars.

Exactly, and I have been unable to find this for the newer cars, so if anyone could it would be super helpful

Yes, I have a JDM ECU that I will be using when I make my harness adapter. I have the wiring diagrams for the 06 but not the 08/09, that is my only bit of hesitation, whether the 08 JDM ECU has the same pinout as the 06 considering that my 09 USDM does not have the same pinout as the 06 USDM. I will take a look at the 5th gen intercoolers, based on some photos it does appear that it might work.