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If the intercooler can't do its job you might but there's probably not enough oil there for those things to happen. Disregard what I said. I don't really know what I'm talking about. Actually, instead - research it some yourself. Something about PCV's, oil catch cans, etc.

 

But yeah I don't know what I'm saying. Wish I could be more help.

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So the lady likes to consume oil... Not crazy fast, after 2k into the oil change. I took a look under, over in the engine bay and at my parking spot and no oil... If my old Mitsubishi taught me anything its head gasket problems make this noise... I added a bit more in after letting her cool off, it was a bit low. Thoughts from more experienced people than i?

Mine consumes oil. I think it's approximately 1 quart every 1K miles though I'm not really sure (gut feeling, never actually "measured" it...doing that now). I'm told this is not unusual for these cars with high mileage (mine has 148K on the clock).

 

Despite the oil consumption my car runs great. Idles smooth, pulls hard, no problems. Not sure where it's going (mechanic has checked it over and fix any oil leaks). Next step might be a compression test...not sure if I want to spend the $200 given the car shows no signs of any other issues.

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Well, my father's been a helicopter mechanic and a car hobbyist for ever but he loves rock crawlers. So i asked a few questions, was told its pretty normal but to listen a lot. Good thing the song of her people needs to be sung loudly. Sung, sang... Im not sure now.

 

If i wanted to drive to kcmo i could get everything done for free provided theres a problem more than age currently [emoji14]

 

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I have a question im having trouble getting an answer to, or understanding the answer ive been given more like. What is the reason for using diesel oil like rotella t6 vs one for gas engines? I undetstand viscosity, additive blends, wanting zinc and all. Is there one formulated for gas that behaves similarly? Also assuming its okay since i see it mentioned a lot. I stood at walmart pondering this for about 15 minutes before picking up some anyway for my oil change soon.

 

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I have a question im having trouble getting an answer to, or understanding the answer ive been given more like. What is the reason for using diesel oil like rotella t6 vs one for gas engines? I undetstand viscosity, additive blends, wanting zinc and all. Is there one formulated for gas that behaves similarly? Also assuming its okay since i see it mentioned a lot. I stood at walmart pondering this for about 15 minutes before picking up some anyway for my oil change soon.

 

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Put simply the answer is it works. Used oil analysis in our motors with Rotella show that Rotella holds up very well.

 

Also if you guys don't want to spring for a compression test, you can always spend ~$30 with black stone labs for a used oil analysis to see how the motor is wearing. They will also give advice on oil change intervals, and a layman's interpretation of the analysis.

 Brought to you by Pfizer

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A new PCV (Keep wanting to type PVC) may be the possible fix for the consumption but I wouldn't go completely off just that. Oil can leak from many places to include the turbo. Best bet is constantly check your oil level but not to the point you can't focus on anything else in life. Do as Max said and level ground and check both side of the dip stick as it's a bit more complicated than it needed to be in design. I would check it when I stop for gas or air the tires.

 

As for the UOA, Polaris is similar price and gives you more readings than BSL. TBN is an extra charge for them vs Polaris or "whatever they call themselves" when you request the kit from Amsoil.

 

There is T6 that has been talked about for years and then there is this new T6 that's slightly reformulated and split into Diesel and multi car(the one we don't use). There is a thread on this floating this section of the forums.

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Right on, so i read a lot and i am pretty sure i understand. Albeit, not fully.. I have an appointment for my aisin timing belt to go in this Friday. I bought the full kit, with waterpump. I figured why not, i am also going to have them check the turbo. I dont think anything is wrong, just peace of mind.

 

So originally i wanted just the exhaust note, i now know a lot more about what goes in it so here is the plan:

 

Timing belt this weekend

cobb ap next week, i order it friday!!!

Borla exhaust, not much more than the magnaflow one i saw before and i think it's more what i want. Ordered at the same time as AP

Down pipe (unsure what brand)

All installed after AP, then the stage 2 map to be sure everything integrates correctly.

 

 

 

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Nice. I've been really going back and forth on what I want exhaust wise. I like the Borla and I kind of like the HKS silent hi power or whatever they call it but I'm still having some apprehensions on having a louder car. I'm also kind of hoping one will pop up used in the Classified Section. I'm broke as a joke right now anyway though. I should probably buy an AOS before a catback....

 

I'm not sure how much the brand name matters on the downpipe. I don't know if I've ever heard anything negative about any of them. I have a catless Invidia downpipe.

 

You said you did order those already or you're going to? If you order from a place like Tuning Alliance they might give you a good deal for buying multiple parts together. Just a thought.

 

I'm excited for you! Fill out your car and approximate location in your profile. :)

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I would wait to have them check the turbo for shaft play until you have the Dp and AP. The Dp has to come off to check shaft play. The exhaust can go on at any time and not effect the tune.

 

The Invidia Dp is what both my cars have. Nice solid piece and great fitment once you cut back the divider plate.

 

You may want to DEI heat wrap the Dp before its installed.

 

Yes. talk with Mike at TA before you buy...

 

The AP, Dp and tune should come from Mike, you will get a better deal in the long run going with him. You can tell Mike we sent you to him. www.tuningalliance.com

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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The Invidia DP is what both my cars have. Nice solid piece and great fitment once you cut back the divider plate.

Wait, what? :eek: I didn't cut anything... :confused:

You may want to DEI heat wrap the DP before its installed.

The advantage being keeping the heat away from things like the axle boot?

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Wait, what? :eek: I didn't cut anything... :confused:

 

The advantage being keeping the heat away from things like the axle boot?

 

Both my Dp have the divorced plate in them. Is yours an open bell mouth ?

 

The one on my 09 was used and I still had to cut it down 1/2"

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Yea, my catted one for the Spec B came from BMB So I assume it fit fine on his car, but it wouldn't bolt up to the Spec's vf46 without being trimmed.

 

go figure...

 

 

Here's the wagon's,

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN7349_zpscndp67cl.jpg

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Okay, i read that if there is any play in the shaft its bad, makes perfect sense so next question. If its bad, what else do i need to look at first? I was thinking bellmouth invidia. I am going to buy it all at once so im gonna call them and get the skinny. As far as install goes, im gonna do a lot with my father. Scary considering my first posts eh?? But i have my whole warehouse memorized, i figure i can learn a lot over a couple days. The timing belt will be done at a shop for sure though i don't trust that [emoji14] Heat wrap sounds like a good idea, I'll see what does the trick and get it done! I'll fill in the infoz. I'll get a solid before and after of the work on the drive!

 

 

On a side note, while i left work today she was begging for it. I could tell so why not see how long it takes for 60-100. I wish i had a timer of sorts [emoji7]

 

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Once you get this newly found power, remember don't just beat on the car from the time you turn the key on till the time you turn the key off. You soon find the limitations of other parts up next to break.
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Once you get this newly found power, remember don't just beat on the car from the time you turn the key on till the time you turn the key off. You soon find the limitations of other parts up next to break.

 

 

Good point, let things cool off for a minute or so after you've driven it hard.

 

Doesn't take much, I normally coast for a while, like the last 1/2 mile or so before getting home.

 

Even after a long highway drive and getting off to get gas. I will coast as much as possible to the exit if I know I'll be shutting it off shortly after exiting.

 

I would never beat on it and then shut it off just after that. Not saying you need to sit and idle for 3-5 minutes. Just be smart about letting the turbo housing cool.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Good point, let things cool off for a minute or so after you've driven it hard.

 

Doesn't take much, I normally coast for a while, like the last 1/2 mile or so before getting home.

 

Even after a long highway drive and getting off to get gas. I will coast as much as possible to the exit if I know I'll be shutting it off shortly after exiting.

 

I would never beat on it and then shut it off just after that. Not saying you need to sit and idle for 3-5 minutes. Just be smart about letting the turbo housing cool.

 

When I was "Running late for work" I would just leave it running out front while I go clock in. I didn't have turbo timer set on my Subaru so I would just use pit stop. I hear how much fun the TGV deletes are if you tried to hop in and leave right away in the winter months.

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So, the car isnt going to become just another toy to beat on, that what the drums are for :D but i really do appreciate the coasting tip, i have an area full of hills i can coast over two before my turn, and then down the driveway. But this leads to another question... (Im like a child with all my questions) Does this change much in freezing weather? I feel like things might get brittle and crack if its too cold, but the garage is for the dead beamer so thats out.

 

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I have no garage. Even in VT which my wagon is most winter weekends, when it -30F I treat the car the same why.

 

In the morning start it, drive it easy the mile to the ski hill. I don't let it warm up in the driveway.

 

My cars are driven for long distances, I almost never drive less then 12 miles to get where I'm going. These cars don't like short drives.

 

My cars see lots of highway miles.

 

FWIW, I'm not of TGV deletes, I live in a cold area.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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So fun news... I have a new front end.. Car has no accidents reported so im trying to figure out wtf happened. What i thought was a diagram system is what mechanics do to parts when they replace them.. So now its figure out if the chassis is messed up... Im imagining a tree having fallen on it... But good news is that dots are everywhere including turbo

 

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So fun news... I have a new front end.. Car has no accidents reported so im trying to figure out wtf happened. What i thought was a diagram system is what mechanics do to parts when they replace them.. So now its figure out if the chassis is messed up... Im imagining a tree having fallen on it... But good news is that dots are everywhere including turbo

 

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Have you had an alignment done recently? I remember one member having a car that was crashed and didn't realise it until they tried to get it aligned for abnormal tire wear issues.

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