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My 06 legacy gt


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Okay, cool! The breakdown in the link makes sense. Can i get away with having the shop do the timing belt or should i bring them the kit mentioned and have them put that one in? Is it going to make a lot of differences since im not gonna go past stage 2 if i even need to.

 

I can pick up the AP, this week if i can find one local or a good deal on the listed sites in the stickies. From what i read on the stage breakdowns was that my whp wont go nuts so i feel more comfortable with it now. I was afraid stage 2 meant that audi rs7 the neighbor has was toast and thats really fast to me.

 

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No most of us feel like stage 2 is how the car should have felt stock. It's not crazy fast by any means but it will open up some power for you.

 

I don't know about the timing belt kit other than there's another kit - the Gates timing belt kit that seems to cause premature failure. A number of people on here have had that experience.

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So, i have one more series questions before i shell out the money for the AP. Can a performance shop tune it and be less than 650? Can i buy it, map it and return it?( i wouldnt in case i needed it but im curious) and provided i learn enough fast enough go cheaper than the AP? Im gonna buy the i

aisin kit, if its been suggested a few places over Gates i'll try it out. I have paid almost all of her off so far, just 7-9 months! I currently have 3k to spend for this want so... Yeah. I dont wanna be stupid so thank you for slowing me down

 

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The Aisin timing belt is the one we recommend currently.

 

The Cobb AP gets married to your car. A tuner like www.tuningalliance.com can email you a map based on the data log you send him. If you buy the AP from him there may be a discount, I can't speak for him.

 

But TA, Mike Kinsman is the best with these cars. He's kept both my cars safe and fun to drive for years.

 

You can't upload the Cobb AP map and then sell the AP without un-marrying it from your car. The new owner of the AP could not upload any maps from it.

 

Read how the Cobb trade-in-program works. You buy the new one, when it arrives you un-marry the old one, and upload the new one and send the old one back for the refund. I have done that.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Okay, makes sense. I will probably just buy one from them. I will ask for him if i can, im sure he'll appreciate the recommendations! Cool so ill order the kit, and take it to the shop. I'll get the AP this week as well, provided the labor isnt over 300. Otherwise i'll wait a week, i needed to buy a couple cymbals :(

 

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Also, is it a 5-speed manual or a 4 speed automatic? There are considerations there as well.

 

4 speed is the 4EAT in the i's, GT's get the 5 speed 5EAT.

 

You should be. There are definitely things that are totally fine to get at Autozone, but hard parts are not really among them. We have lots of really great vendors registered on this site that are great places to buy good parts. Check out the vendor section and figure out who some of them are and which ones you might like to use.

 

Yeah most parts that came up outside of brake parts didn't fit. I had a pulley fail below the a/c (apparently they changed from all metal to plastic after 05 models) and the new belt was completely wrong type and length.

You said you're just interested in some exhaust noise, right? You don't need a Stage 2 tune for that. I'm not sure you even need any tune to be honest but don't quote me on that.

 

For SURE make sure the timing belt is done before you start spending money on exhaust or any other performance/fun mods.

 

IF you're going to get a Cobb AccessPort to flash a map (tune) to your car, it's only a few hundred bucks more to add a downpipe into the picture and flash a Stage 2 tune instead of a Stage 1 tune.

 

The stock downpipe is kind of the first biggest restriction that's bottlenecking the power on the car as it sits now. You can get a few horsepower out of JUST a tune but buying the downpipe too is just a really good value and makes the car feel more powerful. It also adds a little bit of throatiness to the exhaust I think (mine is catless though). Even a performance downpipe with a high flow catalytic converter well net you almost as big of a gain as a catless downpipe because the restriction seems to be in the design of the "bellmouth" near where the downpipe connects to the turbo.

 

Buying the accessport is like when you go to the movie theater and buy a really expensive small tub of popcorn. Buying the downpipe too is like paying 50¢ more to upgrade to a large popcorn. Mmm I'm hungry.

 

EDIT: Also, here's a Stage guide for reference: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/unofficial-legacy-gt-stage-upgrade-definitions-48123.html

It's more of a guideline than a specific set of rules. Also, I think if you talk to WRX/STI guys they may have their own ideas of what stages mean on their cars.

 

True. Just deleting the cans out back requires no tune. Granted you want off the OEM maps after health is accessed so stage 2 is one of those might as well things to do. I got my car off here years ago already stage 2ish with an AP V1(DO NOT GET AN AP V1!!!) and finished it off by swapping the rear half of the downpipe with a catted Perrin piece for emissions. Either way, stock mid pipe and cans were still on. I ended up getting the Xo cans from a member here and that was good enough for a year. If I could go back, I should have stopped there and called it a day.

 

When I joined the forum, I didn't care much about maintenance or this section at all. At no point in my entire life did I ever think I would ever have the entire engine outside of my car. I'm like thats soo cool to see all these people putting forged pistons and springs and stuff in and i'm just trying to get this AEM intake to not CEL when it rains down the scoop and get the filter /maf wet. I spent most my time in off topic trying to fit in with the OTM guys (reason my post count is super low for all them years I been here). Once my car started having issues, I ended up here. Here is where you want to start out, especially now the car has "aged" a bit.

 

Make a list of all the things you want to do to the car (if I didn't see it already) and post it here. I take it engine and trans oil have already been done?

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Stage 2 is the sweet spot on these cars between power and reliability. It's how it should have come from the factory. ;) Uppipe, downpipe, catback, tune. No intake required. Drive it like you stole it. You'll love it. Anjd you'll find the sound you're looking for. Go check out the exhaust video thread in the exhaust forum. Get some idea of downpipe and catback combos you like. Personally, I love my Cobb catted combined with a Borla catback. The boxer rumble down through the gears is the perfect sound to my ear.

 

Think about sways, as a nice cheap(er) suspension upgrade. Won't affect how it rides and soaks up the bumps, but it will definitely level the car through the twistys. You don't actually need much brake upgrade with the LGT as the brakes are pretty darn big and solid to begin with. A nice pad upgrade to something like a Hawk HPS and you never knew how awesome your daily driver can be. Good luck! Have fun!

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Sweet! Im digging the borla sound. I drive for lyft every now and then. I got a wrx guy who loved how she felt in the passengers seat. Thought only sti and wrx could feel like that hehe. We may have a new member soon. Timing belt kit is on the way!! AP v3 will wait till my coffers are filled again. My damn interests and hobbies are killing me. My 2 crash cymbals cracked, my snare mic clip cracked and my heads need replaced 0.0"

 

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Has anyone in or around colorado ever been to highplains raceway? I want to go with my brother in-law and beat his civic si hehe. I figure itll be a fun before and after once i get to stage 2.

 

Im gonna be addicted to this... I know it.. Good thing i have a lot of work

 

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So that's where you live...you'll want to check out, http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cryos-2008-spec-b-story-ongoing-project-258598.html

 

 

Dave is close to you.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Thems some sexy ladies all lined up in thar.

So, i am tossing performance parts off the table. What can i buy at my local auto zone? Lyft gives me 20% off all online orders. Anything other than oil? I almost feel bad not using it hehe

 

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Fluids and greases and oils are fine. Electrical bits like fuses, wiring and headlight bulbs are fine. Brackets and trim are fine. Tools are fine (for basic or a very specialty tool - we're not talking Snap-On here). Great place to borrow specialty tools like a pickle fork and such. Hoses are fine. Car batteries are actually pretty good. Think non-moving, non-metallic, non-critical parts. Avoid the cheap bling aisle like the plague.
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Right on! I figured if i can save 20% on something, why not!! As far as the bling, youre saying a skull license plate and seat cover combo isnt cool anymore?!?! Sheets and covers. [emoji14]

 

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Right on! I figured if i can save 20% on something, why not!! As far as the bling, you're saying a skull license plate and seat cover combo isn't cool anymore?!?! Sheets and covers. [emoji14]

 

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Yeah leave the 4X4 and Size Matters ones there. Only reason I'd spring for seat covers is if you have an industrial/labor job that's gonna get the seats dirty. I'd hope you don't get dirty enough to need covers with Lyft.... Actually covers for the back would be ideal. Also do those little wooden bead car seat covers that you see cab drivers with actually work?

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So the lady likes to consume oil... Not crazy fast, after 2k into the oil change. I took a look under, over in the engine bay and at my parking spot and no oil... If my old Mitsubishi taught me anything its head gasket problems make this noise... I added a bit more in after letting her cool off, it was a bit low. Thoughts from more experienced people than i?

 

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Yea, these things are a royal PITA to get a correct oil reading on.

 

Learn how much oil it uses after the 2k point, they also don't use at the same rate all the time. So keep an close eye on the oil level.

 

I also carry at least a qt of oil in both cars, just in case. Top it off as needed.

 

I normally drive to work, park the car on level ground. Open the hood pull the dip stick about 2". Close the hood, come back after work, check the oil level. Good Luck, sometimes you have to read the back of the stick, because the front side will in the shape of a V. If its bee na while since you've added oil...add some, its better to have a little to much then not enough.

 

Welcome to the love/hate relationship most of us put up with. LOL

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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