Charbo Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 Over the weekend I put a catless uppipe on my car and gutted the stock downpipe. I also installed the stage 2 tune from my accessport. It was running fine for the first day or two, then a few nights ago I was driving around and it started making a weird noise in boost, when it hits about 8psi. I can't really tell exactly where it's coming from, but it sounds more like from the driver's side of the engine compartment. I haven't driven it since because I want to avoid causing any more damage if it is something major. I did notice that after I stopped and turned the car off, that it took a few minutes for it to start making the noise again. Like it was fine up to 14-15psi and then it started making the noise again whenever it got over about 8psi. It still seems to run fine besides that, so I'm hoping that it is nothing really bad. I checked the intercooler on the car last night, and I was going to do a boost leak test tonight. It doesn't sound like alot of the videos of boost leaks I've seen where it's sort of a kazoo sound, but it also doesn't really sound metallic like the turbine is rubbing. What should I check first? I will try to get a video of the sound later tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustCallMeNick Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 Did you check the shaft play of the turbo on the downpipe side when it was disconnected? That would be worth doing regardless. Obviously the passenger side is where the turbo is. Also it seems to be pretty common for vacuum lines to pop off after going stage 2+. I've seen a lot of posts about that and people securing them with zip ties. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 Did you check the downpipe for cat material still there, but loose? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charbo Posted March 2, 2017 Author Share Posted March 2, 2017 Downpipe was completely clear when I was done. I checked the blue t, because I've had that come apart before and zip tied it. It looked OK but I'm going to pull the intercooler to get a better look tonight. Can I check the shaft play from the front or do I have to pull the downpipe? I just put new gaskets on so I don't really want to pull it back off. It doesn't really seem to have lost any power either which makes me hope the turbo is OK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 You didn't really describe the noise. Is it like a hissing sound? From your description, there are some seals on the intercooler where it connects to the rest of the plumbing. The rubber seals need to fit into a groove with the correct orientation. If not seated correctly, everything will sound normal until you start building boost pressure, then you will begin to hear a hissing sound. When I remove/replace the intercooler, I'll put a coating of silicone grease on all seals and hose connections. This conditions the rubber and holds things in place until everything is tightened down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charbo Posted March 3, 2017 Author Share Posted March 3, 2017 Sorry, the sound is sort of hard to describe. It is sort of a hissing sound I guess. I will be taking the car up the road to my bosses later and will get a video of the noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charbo Posted March 3, 2017 Author Share Posted March 3, 2017 Here is a video I just got. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-R7t9gkxyvhQXpGYzRQU2VQQU0/view?usp=drivesdk I attatched a log that I did over the weekend and a log that I did to see what came up when the noise happened. It looks like my af learning values shot up, wouldn't that usually mean a leak?datalog41.csvdatalog31.csv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The 2Fiver Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 I can't really tell exactly where it's coming from, but it sounds more like from the driver's side of the engine compartment Throttle body hose blown out?  Cobb maps were designed around open bellmouth down pipes (or divorced). There might be a few more hangups in the future with your gutted pipes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 FWIW, the fix for blowing the TB hose is a GS tmic. Much easier to work with. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it.  Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttnio Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 If thats the case, I would check and repair all issues concerning the flash and most likely get a custom tune with the ap.  Better yet, contact our community tuners on the board and they can help you more than anyone else. good luck on your mod... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 FWIW, the fix for blowing the TB hose is a GS tmic. Much easier to work with. lol the fix for a hose is a $1000 intercooler . That being said I like my GS intercooler. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 lol the fix for a hose is a $1000 intercooler . Don't mess with the sacred cows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The 2Fiver Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 The budget seems a little tight here with the gutted downpipe. GS top mount is out of the question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charbo Posted March 4, 2017 Author Share Posted March 4, 2017 I pulled the intercooler and the hose going to the throttle body. The hose was a little loose at the throttle body, but I took it off and pulled the rubber endcap pieces like others have suggested. The noise is still there after putting it back together. The more I hear it, the more it does sound metallic. I am waiting for the car to cool down now so I can pull the downpipe and check for shaft play. There is a guy local with a used vf40 for $350 that I will probably pick up if mine is shot. I wanted to just get a vf52 when I had to replace it but I cant really afford to get the mods needed for that, plus a tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttnio Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 Aside from the noise, how do you like the car with the mod? i.e.( catless uppipe/w gutted downpipe and the AP ots 2 setting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charbo Posted March 4, 2017 Author Share Posted March 4, 2017 It runs much better than stock and it quite a bit quicker. I have had an issue with slightly low boost since I got the car, when I had the stage 1 map on it otherwise stock I was getting 13.5-14 psi and now with the stage 2 map I am getting ~15 usually. The strange thing is the car doesnt seem to have lost much power since the noise started, but I dont want to get on it incase it is the turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamT07 Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 Is it like a teapot noise? That whistling type of hiss? Mine made the same exact noise after I changed the up pipe but when I changed the up pipe, the down pipe was off too and mind started leaking from the where the first piece of the down pipe meets with the second. I thought maybe it was the up pipe gasket but when I put my Cobb dp it stopped and I saw a streak of black on the gasket that seeped out. Maybe the one time I'd like to thank my subie for burning oil to show the leak. But yeah maybe check that gasket. Â Â Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The 2Fiver Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 It's probably just some new "stage 2" noises. I don't know what a gutted downpipe would sound like, given that the up is now catless too the hissing noise is just a result of the changes to your exhaust work. Boost leak tests are necessary prior to turning up the boost but 15 psi usually isn't enough to get you into trouble. It isn't really enough to justify gutting a DP to operate with a $600 accessport. If I'm being a record, just call me broken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamT07 Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 I wouldn't even recommended the stage two because no matter what you do to the stock dp, you are still not going to have the bell mouth housing which I believe is what stage two needs because that it's self is less restriction. Just get a cat less one off somebody here on forums, they are on classifieds all the time. Get an actual dp and see where it tAkes you. Â Â Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charbo Posted March 11, 2017 Author Share Posted March 11, 2017 I pulled the downpipe and tried to wiggle the turbine. It seemed solid, I pushed and pulled on it pretty good and it didn't seem to move at all. I got a cap that will fit in the intake to block it off so I can try to do a boost leak test. I'm glad it's hopefully not the turbo but I really want to get it figured out. I really don't think it's just some stage 2 noise, like I said, it was fine for the first couple days. Also the video doesn't capture the noise well, but I don't know how else to describe it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charbo Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 Drained the oil today..It had some metal flakes in it. Guessing the turbo is shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relative4 Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 If you want the next turbo & the engine to survive, better get all that debris out. Drop & clean the pan, replace the oil cooler, pull & clean the OCVs, pull the banjo filters, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustCallMeNick Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 if you want the next turbo & the engine to survive, better get all that debris out. Drop & clean the pan, replace the oil cooler, pull & clean the ocvs, pull the banjo filters, etc. +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charbo Posted March 14, 2017 Author Share Posted March 14, 2017 I got the used turbo today. What order should I go about this? I was going to run some 5 minute flush, then take the turbo and intercooler off, remove banjo bolt filters, drain the oil, remove the ocvs, replace the oil cooler, remove oil pan. Clean all cleanable parts, reassemble with new turbo and new oil. I plan on doing another oil change very soon after to get any last pieces out. What else should I do? I want to make sure it is as clean as I can to avoid more issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charbo Posted March 14, 2017 Author Share Posted March 14, 2017 I got the used turbo today. What order should I go about this? I was going to run some 5 minute flush, then take the turbo and intercooler off, remove banjo bolt filters, drain the oil, remove the ocvs, replace the oil cooler, remove oil pan. Clean all cleanable parts, reassemble with new turbo and new oil. I plan on doing another oil change very soon after to get any last pieces out. What else should I do? I want to make sure it is as clean as I can to avoid more issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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