Guest Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 IMO heads are shot. Mine kinda looked similar when I had engine skip few tooths and bend valves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 Those journals look ugly. I'd like to see it go back together as-is to see what happens in real life. You know, cause sometimes a bad thing in theory doesn't actually cause as big of a problem as it could. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubaruTech19 Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 Well got into the motor a bit more yesterday. It appears that there is some scratches on the cams and journals. Not sure how bad this is or not. Opinions? Other than that these heads appear to be in good shape. Even if they are typically something that you would replace the heads for how long would this thing run as-is I wonder.... My next question is the torque converter, how do i get this off if I can't spin the motor? Is there even anything behind the flexplate? If not I suppose I can just separate the engine without unbolting the torque converter...anyway ideas? Just trying to figure out where the hold up is with this motor. Maybe the crank just welded itself to the crank! There was so much metal in this thing.... I think if I have to scrap the heads then I will probably just part ways with this thing..... Having seen many subaru motors those heads are done for. A tip I can give you is many Subaru dealerships replace blocks daily and you might get lucky and find a decent short block to rebuild from their scrap piles. It might only cost $50-$100 if they are willing to part with it. Then you can rebuild the block have it machined and could save some money. It's a time consuming endeavor but can pay off if you're patient. Unless you're buying a new short block be very cautious buying a used motor unless the seller has detailed knowledge to how the motor was maintained, was it modified, was it run at high boost, so on and so on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kwoltz Posted April 21, 2017 Author Share Posted April 21, 2017 So it has been awhile since I last posted. Almost 2 months actually! I decided to cut through the drive plate to get the torque converter off. Just used a dremel. Sacrificed the cheap part ($20) for the expensive one. The next thing I tried was getting into the motor, no luck. Since it won't rotate, even partially separated, I couldn't get the best idea about what happened. Decided after a few hours that I don't really care and need to start on the rebuild. Order a ton of parts, refinished and cleaned the heads (and every other part!), and now have the motor pretty close to being back in the car. I wish I would have got some pictures of the valves and cam journals. After a ton of dirty long hours, they all cleaned up really nicely. The cam journals looked bad originally but after some light 800 girt and then finished with 2000 grit, they look pretty darn good. No major scratches or grooves. The valves all got chem dipped multiple times, brass wire brushed, and then lapped. I also checked the valve lash once I put it all together and they were all within spec! Here is a list of all the parts I have purchased so far and some pictures of the progress: Battery 1 $130.00 OReilly Shortblock 1 $1,794.00 Heuberger Gasket Kit 10105AA720 1 $230.61 Heuberger Oil Pickup Tube 15049AA070 1 $20.24 Heuberger Oil Pump 15010AA300 1 $122.29 Heuberger Oil Cooler 21311AA051 1 $189.20 Heuberger Oil Pan 11109AA131 1 $86.88 Heuberger Oil Dipstick Tube 15144AA011 1 $16.20 Heuberger Oil Filter 15208AA12A 3 $13.20 Heuberger Turbo 14411AA511 1 $609.79 RockAuto Union Screw 14445AA090 2 $21.78 Heuberger Union Screw 15194AA110 1 $10.07 Heuberger Drive Plate 12332AA080 1 $20.48 Heuberger CV Axle - Pass 1 $37.79 RockAuto Chilton's Manual 64304 1 $17.14 RockAuto Spark Plugs NGK 7913 4 $34.40 RockAuto Thermostat 21210AA030 1 $11.99 RockAuto Harmonic Balancer 1 $63.79 RockAuto Timing Belt/Water Pump 1 $268.79 RockAuto Cam Plug - Half Moon 11051AA070 4 $19.48 Heuberger Chem-Dip 2 $37.08 Wal-Mart Invidia Uppipe HS02SW1UPP 1 $147.80 Heuberger AT Oil Seal 806750060 1 $5.74 Heuberger Headlamp Screw 904586012 1 $0.60 Heuberger Headlamp Retainer 909130051 1 $1.93 Heuberger Torque Converter Bolts 800208580 2 $1.60 Heuberger Battey Tie Down 82182AG10A 1 $9.34 Heuberger Battery Bolt LH 82161AG10B 1 $1.24 Heuberger Battery Bolt RH 82161AJ11A 1 $1.50 Heuberger Grounding Strap LH 81831AG010 1 $5.81 Heuberger Grounding Strap RH 81831AG000 1 $5.96 Heuberger Upper Radiator Hose 45161AG00B 1 $16.06 Heuberger Turbo Outlet Hose 45161AG00B 1 $7.65 Heuberger Turbo Hose Clamp 805922080 1 $2.07 Heuberger Turbo Hose Clamp 805922090 1 $1.60 Heuberger PS Pump Oring 34439FG000 1 $1.23 Heuberger Oil Cooler Pipe 21328AA011 1 $21.41 Heuberger Torque Converter Clip 805343020 1 $2.14 Heuberger Union Screw O-Rings 803912040 2 $1.81 Heuberger Solenoid Oil Cover Gskt 10931AA010 2 $2.98 Heuberger ATF Filter 38325AA032 1 $23.09 Heuberger Turbo Water Hose 14472AA091 1 $12.45 Heuberger Water Tank Hose 1 14472AA050 1 $4.89 Heuberger Water Tank Hose 2 14472AA040 1 $12.26 Heuberger Camshaft Cap Bolt 10993AA000 1 $1.20 Heuberger Grounding Strap Screws 904580002 4 $1.29 Heuberger Valve Spring Compressor 512 1 $77.99 Amazon RTV Ultra Black 1 $7.49 Amazon Valve Grinding Compound 1 $4.39 Amazon Valve Stem Pliers 1 $10.99 Amazon TMIC 21821AA021 1 $322.07 Heuberger Hose PCV Assem 11815AB790 1 $26.99 Heuberger Vacuum Hose 99071AC220 1 $5.63 Heuberger Total so far (minus so other random tools and cleaning supplies) = $4,504.40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 21, 2017 Share Posted April 21, 2017 Remember to not put to much sealant on the cam caps. Don't block the oil passage. opps, looks like its to late. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted April 27, 2017 Share Posted April 27, 2017 Great job! My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 27, 2017 Share Posted April 27, 2017 Has anyone told you to test fit the tmic and TB hose while the engine is out. It will be easier then when the engine is in the car. FWIW, I also bolt the turbo to the up pipe. I've posted so many times about it, people look forward to counting how many times I've said that...LOL That some list of parts. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted April 27, 2017 Share Posted April 27, 2017 Has anyone told you to test fit the tmic and TB hose while the engine is out. It will be easier then when the engine is in the car. FWIW, I also bolt the turbo to the up pipe. I've posted so many times about it, people look forward to counting how many times I've said that...LOL That some list of parts. In my previous comment I mentioned something about that in a snarky way, but a stroke of kindness overtook me and I deleted it. I was pleased with my unexpected burst of good judgement, but disappointed that I deleted a witty comment. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kwoltz Posted April 28, 2017 Author Share Posted April 28, 2017 Thanks guys. Yeah great points. I did go ahead and test fit the tmic. Still leaning a little to the passenger side but it's on there. Might need to rotate the TB hose again. Wasn't totally sure which way that was supposed to go. Also, I definitely agree with the uppipe. I spent a little extra time trying to get that all bolted up. The turbo has a little different bolt pattern on the housing so the coolent hose that goes under it had to be "custom" bent a little bit to go around it. Good news is it is in the car now and the car starts! The engine sounds pretty good. Bad news is that it is going into limp mode and I have a few codes P2109 and P2016. After looking around and doing a little research it appears that P2016 may point to a TGV sensor. Sure enough! The TGV sensor by my turbo looks like the housing got smashed. I already order a replacement for that one. I'm not totally sure about the P2109 code. It seems like it could be related or it might actually be a throttle body issue. Doing some research on that code is scary. Some folks have had to replace their whole ECU because of it. Hopefully mine is just a dirty TB sensor! Anyway, here are the latest pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darth SpecB Posted April 29, 2017 Share Posted April 29, 2017 Clean topmount!! Hopefully you figure out the limp mode. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 How's the build coming along? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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