Kwoltz Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 So I am a former 2007 WRX owner. Loved that car and wish I never sold it. I bought it brand new and kept for about 3 years. No issues. Nowadays I have a Prius and Sorento! I know, I know. The other day I saw a 2005 Legacy GT for $600 and couldn't resist. Went to check it out and all they said was the motor was blown and they didn't know why. I have rebuilt a number of cars and this one definitely had my name on it. I had to buy it and quick! Towed it to my house and started to tear it down. Found a ton of oil all around the turbo and the front of the down pipe. Hard to say how long it has been leaking. Also looks like the passenger side head gasket may be leaking as well. Anyway, I took off the DP and found the turbo has been obliterated! Then I found some metal in the intercooler, no good. So I'm planning on taking the whole motor out, inspecting for metal damage, cleaning/replacing, and putting it all back together! Good fun right! Anyway, this post will be my journey along the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kwoltz Posted February 13, 2017 Author Share Posted February 13, 2017 Forgot to mention, it won't crank. You can hear the starter smacking but no turning. I put a wrench on it, no manual cranking either! Almost ready to be pulled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 Neat story and quite a bargain on the car. You should read the stickies in the turbo powertrains forum, especially the turbo failure thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/turbo-failure-wiki-173358.html We have a term around here "ynansb" (You need a new shortblock). This is what happens after somebody tries to "limp home" when the turbo has failed due to oil starvation. A new shortblock costs about $1800. It's usually cheaper and better to rebuild an engine with a new shortblock than to try to salvage the old shortblock when this type of failure has occurred. Your old shortblock might make a nice end table in your garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kwoltz Posted February 13, 2017 Author Share Posted February 13, 2017 Thanks, I was checking that sticky! I was wondering if replacing the shortblock would be the way to go or not. May just go that route then. I thought maybe if there weren't any signs of damage in the block besides maybe some spun bearings then I might be able to just get it flushed/dipped and reassembled with a new oil pump and bearings. I suspect that since it isn't cranking it might have some major damage in there though. Hopefully the damage didn't make it into the heads! :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 Heads can usually be rebuilt. The problem is the motor will likely have metal chips strewn all through the internals. It's very hard to clean out and spells disaster later on, ruining a bunch of new parts that just got installed, and forcing a do-over rebuild. Nice photos from this recent thread, you will see what you could be facing: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/first-build-05-legacy-gt-257550.html There's lots of similar photos in the archives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 Yep, have a great shop rebuild the heads so when you install them on the new short block with new oil cooler, new oil pump & pickup, new oil pan, new GS tmic and vf52, 3" catted DP. Get a break in MAP from www.tuningalliance.com you should be on your way. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 Forgot to mention, it won't crank. You can hear the starter smacking but no turning. I put a wrench on it, no manual cranking either! Almost ready to be pulled. Remove that intake manifold in one piece by unbolting it from the heads at the TGV's. Then you can clean it piece by piece on the bench. See my click here link for pictures too. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 in for pics of a destroyed motor... and the rebuild My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birkhoff Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 Thanks, I was checking that sticky! I was wondering if replacing the shortblock would be the way to go or not. May just go that route then. I thought maybe if there weren't any signs of damage in the block besides maybe some spun bearings then I might be able to just get it flushed/dipped and reassembled with a new oil pump and bearings. I suspect that since it isn't cranking it might have some major damage in there though. Hopefully the damage didn't make it into the heads! :/ It is possible to rebuild the short block for less than the out-of-the box price, but you have to be able and willing to do a lot of the work yourself and you need a good engine to start with. It sounds like you are thinking of having the SB done entirely by a shop. That could end up costing more than a new SB from the dealer, or at least comparable and there are risks associated with that path. The fact that you cannot rotate the engine by hand is a strong hint that you don't have a good core for rebuild anyway. You have to tear it down to be sure. I think we all hope you do tear into it to find out what happened. Curiosity, if nothing else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 What a bargain! Definitely get a new short block, rebuild the heads, replace parts that cannot be effectively cleaned (like oil "cooler" - or rather heat exchanger) and put the enginer together. Pretty easy engines to work on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kwoltz Posted February 15, 2017 Author Share Posted February 15, 2017 Thanks guys. I am pretty anxious myself to get into the motor! Going to try to make time to pull it on Saturday. Will certainly post some pictures of what I find. I definitely think a new short block makes sense. Hopefully the heads are still in good or repairable shape! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 I rebuilt my motor this past summer, and doing everything myself barely saved me any cash. ANY shop labor would have made buying a new SB the cheaper option, and I didn't replace the oil cooler or oil pump. TL: DR Rebuilding a SB is only worth doing if you include the experience. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kwoltz Posted February 20, 2017 Author Share Posted February 20, 2017 Well, made some time to pull the engine but didn't get into it yet. Tons of oil around the turbo fittings and below it. Lots of oil in the throttle body as well. The exhaust turbine is broke, it just rattles around loose in there. I'm anxious to get it opened up and see what we have! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 Almost like Christmas, isn't it? Hopefully, you did not get a piece of coal in your stocking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kwoltz Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 Well I got the motor mounted and started to take it apart last night. Wasn't too surprised with the damaged intake propeller on the turbo considering what the exhaust side looked like. I can see some oil pooled up on the valves. I took the left side valve cover off and it looked pretty clean. Didn't see any damage. I need to get into the block and see what is holding the motor up. Any tips or tricks on getting the pulleys removed? Also, since the motor isn't cranking should I just mark the current spot the pulleys are in before removal or is there a standard TDC (top dead center) or something like that to line everything up upon installation? Maybe there isn't a need for that at all because of the notches on the pulleys, just haven't looked too much into it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 The cam sprockets only go onto the cams one way, the sprockets line up with each other using the notches, and marks on the timing belt tie everything together with the crank (and therefore, the pistons). Normally, before you take off the timing belt you rotate the crank so that all four pistons are halfway in the cylinders. That way valves don't smack the pistons when the TB comes off and one/more of the sprockets rotates (from the valve spring tension pushing up on the cams). In your case, not being able to rotate the crank makes it easy. Take off the timing belt and hope for the best. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kwoltz Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 Thanks StkmltS! That's kind of what I figured. Hopefully I can get back to it tonight! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 In for another rebuilt. How is the timing marks aligned up, before taking off the belt? I'm afraid if they are too far off, you might damage the valves when taking off the belt. If you can get a wrench on the cam gears and hold pressure while you slide the belt off that cam, you might be able to save those valves. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birkhoff Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 If you plan to re-use the belt, put the engine in neutral position (if you can) by setting the mark on the crank gear in line. You will find the notches on the cam gears and the rear timing cover now all line up. Put marks on the belt where those notches are, and the mark for the crank gear, and mark the belt rotation direction. Now, when you put it back together you will use those marks to align things, just like the marks on a new belt. This is all in the FSM by the way. If you can still see the original timing marks on the belt then you can simply use them when you reassemble. Note that the belt marks will not line up with the gear notches anymore because the belt walks a tooth or so every rotation. It takes a very long time for it to get back to its original position. Or, you may just choose to buy a new belt for peace of mind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kwoltz Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 Whew, I expected some metal in the pan but this is crazy. Check out these pictures of all the lovely metal shards found in the oil pan and oil pickup tube! Looks like it has been eating away at the crank bearings for quite some time. At first glance the heads appear to be in good shape. Need to finish getting the heads off and see how the valves look! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Does not bode well for heads. If camshaft journals are shot, the heads are gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Ynansb My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Ynansb © Tris My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 © Tris We don't say that name around here no more. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kwoltz Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 Well got into the motor a bit more yesterday. It appears that there is some scratches on the cams and journals. Not sure how bad this is or not. Opinions? Other than that these heads appear to be in good shape. Even if they are typically something that you would replace the heads for how long would this thing run as-is I wonder.... My next question is the torque converter, how do i get this off if I can't spin the motor? Is there even anything behind the flexplate? If not I suppose I can just separate the engine without unbolting the torque converter...anyway ideas? Just trying to figure out where the hold up is with this motor. Maybe the crank just welded itself to the crank! There was so much metal in this thing.... I think if I have to scrap the heads then I will probably just part ways with this thing..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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