MTBwrench Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 Well, seeing as how I spent all day talking about how the wagon has been running great... it only makes sense that another issue arises! I got pulled over on the way home tonight because literally all of my lights(DRL's, indicators, side markers, tail lights) besides low beams, fogs, and high beams are non-functional. Here's what happens: -Lights off: I have no DRL's. Brake lights work when depressed. Indicators work. -Middle setting: the dash dims and nothing else. However, brakes still work when depressed and indicators work with signals/hazards on. Last setting(low beams at full power): the low beams finally turn on but that's it. Brakes still work when depressed, and indicators work with signals/hazards on. I've checked a few of the illumination fuses both under dash and under the hood, and they're fine. I hear a relay under the hood click when the indicators and dimmed brakes should turn on, and another under the dash when the headlights turn on. Reverse lights, high beams, and fogs all work fine. I'm hoping that maybe there's another relay I don't know of, because a bad wire somewhere may cause me to just burn the wagon to the ground. MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too sigmafour Posted January 25, 2017 I Donated Too Share Posted January 25, 2017 We all know you are a capable wrencher so not sure what to suggest you haven't already thought of. Obviously start looking at the vacation pics and I would be poking a multi meter over each fuse looking for voltage in case I can spot a fuse that's not getting voltage and help me identify any particular side of a potential open circuit. All that said, in my mind I am thinking wagon... and wondering if you are being plagued by a broken wire in the loom of the tailgate. I seem to recall a whole thread or three dedicated to peeling that rubber boot back and repairing fatigued wires inside.??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freaksavior Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 We all know you are a capable wrencher so not sure what to suggest you haven't already thought of. Obviously start looking at the vacation pics and I would be poking a multi meter over each fuse looking for voltage in case I can spot a fuse that's not getting voltage and help me identify any particular side of a potential open circuit. All that said, in my mind I am thinking wagon... and wondering if you are being plagued by a broken wire in the loom of the tailgate. I seem to recall a whole thread or three dedicated to peeling that rubber boot back and repairing fatigued wires inside.??? This was my thought too. Double check you're not missing a ground connector either, i'm sure you thought of this, but it never hurts to triple check. That'll play havoc on a system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 We all know you are a capable wrencher so not sure what to suggest you haven't already thought of. Obviously start looking at the vacation pics and I would be poking a multi meter over each fuse looking for voltage in case I can spot a fuse that's not getting voltage and help me identify any particular side of a potential open circuit. All that said, in my mind I am thinking wagon... and wondering if you are being plagued by a broken wire in the loom of the tailgate. I seem to recall a whole thread or three dedicated to peeling that rubber boot back and repairing fatigued wires inside.??? I posted because I was dreading reading the prints, but they're not all that bad after all. I haven't probed with my meter yet, but that's the next step. I guess I'll measure the fuses' resistance as well, because I've seen it happen before where the fuse looks fine but the pixies refuse to march. You make a really good point about the wagon, actually. My rear wiper has been down for a good year now, and I've been lamenting having to deal with it... This was my thought too. Double check you're not missing a ground connector either, i'm sure you thought of this, but it never hurts to triple check. That'll play havoc on a system. Looking at the prints, the rear indicators and license illumination are all wired in parallel with eachother, so *technically* that shouldn't cause me an issue if there is an open somewhere. But... who knows. From looking at the prints, the rear markers, dim tail light circuit, and license plate illumination are all wired into their own parallel circuit(see illum-02 below) The front markers are on a separate circuit, and also wired in parallel(see illum-01 below). Technically, this means my issue shouldn't be caused by an open in any of these circuits. I would just have a "dead" bulb. That means I need to look at the next common denominator, the parking switch! As it turns out, it seems the illumination is designed such that the parking switch isn't just a switch, but also the power source for all the side markers, tails, and license illumination(See illum-01 below). When I installed my paddle shifters, the new to me 2008 clockspring mount had the parking light switch cracked off(presumably because the JDM paddle shifter steering column shroud has no provisions for it. I bet my issue is somewhere in there, as the only thing after it is the relay, which I can hear clicking on and off. There are also fuses strewn throughout as well, I'll check those too. Will report back soon. MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too sigmafour Posted January 25, 2017 I Donated Too Share Posted January 25, 2017 Nicely thought through! I will be anticipating hearing your update and thank you for posting those highlighted documents here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted January 26, 2017 Author Share Posted January 26, 2017 Welp... I got it sorted relatively quickly. In fact, my earlier theory that the parking light switch was the root of my issue was correct! Turns out I was right about the parking switch powering all the marker lights. In my situation, the JDM 2008 FSTi column shroud I have(has cutouts for the paddle shifters) has no provision for the parking switch present on the Legacy/Outback. The PO of my paddle setup "deleted" that switch by removing it, but that creates an open in the marker light illumination circuit! Further explained for those that aren't comfortable reading prints: There are two ways in which the marker lights (front indicators, tails, license lights) can be powered: There are three wires involved here: White Wire: An unswitched, constant +12v source, fuse #15. Green Wire: A swicthed +12V source, controlled by the BIU via the illumination relay. Orange Wire: The parking light illumination circuit. Parking switch on(green and white wires): This is the simpler circuit of the two. When you turn the parking light switch on, it simply connects the lighting circuit to a constant +12V source. This power source is unswitched with ignition, which is why you can kill your battery as many of us have. Parking switch off(green and orange wires): This one is a little more complicated. When the switch is off, it does not fully disconnect the parking light circuit, but switches it to a secondary switched +12V source controlled by the body integrated unit (BIU) via relay. This circuit allows the lights to be turned on when you turn the headlight toggle to either running lights or the low beam position. In either of those cases, the BIU sends a signal to the illumination relay, which switches on a +12V source and completes the circuit. Since it's controlled by the BIU, it switches on and of with the ignition as well, which is why the lights turn off with no key in the ignition. So onto my little "parking switch delete" project: Here is the end goal of what I'm trying to accomplish here: After 7 minutes of investigation, I discovered that the parking light circuit was completely open on both ends due to the lack of the contact portion of the parking switch: So, I decided I would create the same effect of the switch being in the off position by installing a small jumper wire I made myself by tinning the ends of some 18AWG solid core wire and pressing it flat like the male plug's pins: Too bad my flux was frozen... To get to the parking switch plug, remove the one phillips screw underneath the column, and remove the lower column cover. There are two white plugs on the left side: a wide one for the signal/lighting stalk, and a smaller square one located further inboard for the parking switch. Unplug both of them, so you can lower that harness and make your life easier. This is the plug you're looking for: Jumper installed: I thought the jumper wire was a little janky, and started thinking about how uch it would suck if it ever wiggled loose, so I decided to make a safer, more permanent solution. I cut the harness out of my old clockspring mount, and spliced the orange and green wires together. Much better! And that's it, all fixed! This is a very simplke project to undertake if you ever have issues with the parking lights not turning on/off, or for some reason need to eliminate the parking light switch like I did. I probably went a little overboard explaining, but hopefully this helps someone in the future. MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too sigmafour Posted January 26, 2017 I Donated Too Share Posted January 26, 2017 Nice Betty Boo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freaksavior Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 Nice, really glad to hear that man! Thanks for posting back your results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted January 26, 2017 Author Share Posted January 26, 2017 Nice Betty Boo. She's been my shop assistant since I was twelve! MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnusonsubie Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 Well glad to see you got it figured out. I was going to ask if you'd messed with anything when you'd done your paddle shifter install. I've been rear wiper less for the past year and a half too. I should get around to fixing it too. 2005 Vader Wagon Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volta55 Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 great thread! hopefully i can learn from vaca pics how to fix my license plate illumination lights ( replaced both bulbs, still no lights... very sketchy driving at dark ) p.s i did pull back the accordion boot and the wires looked very good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 With a name like Volta you're sure to do well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volta55 Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 With a name like Volta you're sure to do well... its from The Mars Volta ( band ) im terrible with electricity ( makes no sense because im a welder ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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