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Rear differential question


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So from what I read the LGT is 3 wheel drive?...
Not really accurate. It is all-wheel-drive with limited-slip rear differential and open front differential. The only time you would have 3-wheel drive would be with the car driving on Teflon-coated ice, IOW no traction at all.

 

Try this experiment. While driving along a road with gravel on the shoulders, stop the car with the two left-hand side wheels on the asphalt and the two right-hand side wheels on the gravel. Now, accelerate up to cruising speed as fast as you can. You will find the car will take off strait and true, without drama. Each of your wheels is driving you forward using the traction available to them.

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Yes, it can be done, but you should ask yourself why you need to. Better to upgrade when you actually run into it as a limitation instead of just doing it for the sake of upgrading. It can be expensive and usually requires a specialist to install it.

 

You can find a Differential FAQ on NASIOC which is oriented to the WRX/STI, but a lot of things are similar.

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Read this thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/differential-faq-consolidated-and-made-relevant-legacy-owners-112536.html

 

Then this thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/so-just-picked-up-one-these-subaru-front-lsd-99463.html

 

Still a bunch of work to be done on other areas of the car before it's running again, but I finally installed the JDM FLSD yesterday. Backlash came in right at .005" and the contact pattern looks good. Decided to keep the drive pinion shims as is (0.6mm thick vs. the 0.45mm indicated by the tool) to avoid overlapping patterns, as this R&P has 87,000 miles on it. Thanks to Dave@Rallispec for the sanity check on that.

 

I'll do a separate thread with more pictures of the process, and info about the front diff, 5MT DCCD w/ MapDCCD controller, and Moore Performance Blast Plates.

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/537/rQXj2d.jpg

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/661/gPJYjR.jpg

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/909/553yJP.jpg

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/908/M8iDwl.jpg

 

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/537/mKQuKh.jpg

 

Hardly impossible - V3/V4 JDM STI came with the 5MT and DCCD center.

 

Here is mine, picked up used off NASIOC. Just cleand and rebuilt with new shifter arm and prop shaft oil seals. Need a few bolts and to repair one of the wires coming through the potted feed-thru and it'll be ready to go.

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/673/3pAhpi.jpg

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/538/X5L58U.jpg

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/633/JImbta.jpg

 

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/907/HfDlFv.jpg

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Yes, it's cool from the technical point-of-view, but you have to ask whether it is worth the cost to do this upgrade. What is the goal?

 

If the goal is better traction in Winter, a set of dedicated Winter tires would be a more effective use of the money. And they would actually help you stop and steer to avoid accidents, which is somewhat important.

 

If the goal is to turn your Legacy into an STI, there is a lot more in the STI drivetrain than a front diff. You might be better off transplanting the entire STI drivetrain if that is the goal.

 

If you are autocrossing or rallying and need to put down maximum power in tight turns, then it might make sense. For sane daily driving on the street, there might be better ways to spend your money.

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I've always wanted to undertake something like that. Too bad I don't have a 5MT/6MT to practice on.

 

OP: Why exactly do you ask about diffs? We may be able to recommend something otherwise as well(besides stickier tires) if you're having trouble maintaining traction in certain situations.

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
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On the street, let's say you are at a stop sign turning right or left. You can experience some wheelspin on the inner front wheel if you floor it. Easy solution, accelerate a little more gently. ;)

 

If you were autocrossing it could limit the power you could put down in a tight turn. Might become annoying.

 

If the road is slick, a torsen (helical) front diff is not as much help as you might expect. Without some traction, a torsen behaves much like an open diff.

 

Hope that helps. You will see for yourself as you get familiar with your car.

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I just want to know how hard I can take a turn and to understand that I wanted to know what type of diffs the car had.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Let's put it this way: at stock power levels you can push the car as hard as you (safely) want on the street without issue. :)

 

On a track, or autocrossing that's a different story. As MilesA said, accelerating though a corner will lift the inside steer tire, and even the rar if you have a stiff enough suspension and sway-bar. A 1 way limited slip would help here by preventing the inside steer tire from unloading all the torque. a 1.5 way would help in the back by locking on accel and just slightly decel, helping put power down.

 

That being said, a Cusco 1.5 way is about $1300... most likely not worth it unless you've got a lot of cash to throw around, or you're seriously competing somewhere.

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
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