Dishwasher Posted December 21, 2016 Author Share Posted December 21, 2016 Yeah you're probably right. Pretty thankful the car is still running. I'll post pics of the parts I remove for giggles when I get this done over new years. Brought to you by Pfizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dishwasher Posted December 24, 2016 Author Share Posted December 24, 2016 Aisin Timing Belt Kit came in today from Rock Auto. I took some pics. I'm still waiting on the cam locking tool. Here's some unboxing pics in the mean time. All parts made in Japan and clearly labeled with the exception of the belt itself made in Thailand. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161224/902fd83152cd7ed82fdcce1460befd63.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161224/d848499a527d78ca01fad1ecf8cff379.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161224/316346b176d2699c91e328b8d2425804.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161224/a3af2b129ded47264a4ead137f9809b3.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161224/97d482d32b8e1fc9d02ef19d2603a84b.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161224/893565b548592e7248517cdb0eca3d48.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161224/e1c5dfd037141c5ca9c04a3a8fdfed9d.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161224/f31208d658ec5901a96e744e1bb3f45a.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161224/bf90150af937e05d3d9e262424d27886.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161224/48ba46e2ff7f6b095c82d2efaa2a1b86.jpg Water pump gasket is metal. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161224/f2a1be3210cfb150f77a0ffe87dc4f93.jpg Water pump made in Japan, very smooth mating surface. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161224/30c41cb0b00e6f36569d47f8cd9aa0b1.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161224/6a69cdac059961fedcc8390ee2f18989.jpg Comes with instructions including torque specs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Brought to you by Pfizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted December 24, 2016 Share Posted December 24, 2016 I'm still waiting on the cam locking tool. How I locked my DS cams. Link to post http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4366413&postcount=158 http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/0324132022_zps28eb8ddd.jpg Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted December 24, 2016 Share Posted December 24, 2016 I'd be afraid of stressing those from the inside, no? LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted December 24, 2016 Share Posted December 24, 2016 I'd be afraid of stressing those from the inside, no? Not really, that what the wooden shims are for. Wedging the two wooden shims tightly in between the cam pulleys. Put outside pressure on the cam pulleys. The vise gripe is just tight enough to hold the cams from move. Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJr Posted December 24, 2016 Share Posted December 24, 2016 Perfect Dishwasher, that's the kit to buy! Change your hoses and belts while you're at it. I changed my OEM crank pulley too because of this: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/f-crank-pulley-229893.html I went with a Kartboy. Research the pulley's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dishwasher Posted December 24, 2016 Author Share Posted December 24, 2016 I've seen the vice grip method used, and I'm sure it works well for many. I'm a bit of a bull in a China shop which is why I opted for the tool. Plus Amazon had one for only $26 shipped. SUBARU Camshaft Locking Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CM0OMBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9wPxyb8HES670 I'll inspect the pulley. Rather not replace it if I don't have to. Need money for rear brakes, speaking of which, I've heard centric rear rotors no longer fit on a recent review, is that accurate? I like the centrics I have on the front and would like to put them on the rears as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Brought to you by Pfizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 24, 2016 Share Posted December 24, 2016 I use this site for brakes, I find it very easy to use. http://campaign.r20.constantcontact.com/render?m=1120528328774&ca=f277cac1-eb02-4ea2-b11b-133f4cd2e299 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dishwasher Posted December 24, 2016 Author Share Posted December 24, 2016 Thanks Max. I'll go with them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Brought to you by Pfizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dishwasher Posted December 27, 2016 Author Share Posted December 27, 2016 Went with the Premium Blanks kit with ceramic pads. Free shipping and pretty reasonably priced. I like how it's a package with everything you need. Brought to you by Pfizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59ctd Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 What is the general rule of thumb as to when to replace the timing belt? I think the owners manual says 105K miles but how about how old they are? My 08 Legacy 2.5i has 60k on it and the 09 Legacy GT has 40k on the odometer. Both fairly low miles but they are 8 to 9 years old now. I am leaning towards getting all the parts ready for the belt change and coolant flush sometime in the spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldsoda Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 What is the general rule of thumb as to when to replace the timing belt? I think the owners manual says 105K miles but how about how old they are? My 08 Legacy 2.5i has 60k on it and the 09 Legacy GT has 40k on the odometer. Both fairly low miles but they are 8 to 9 years old now. I am leaning towards getting all the parts ready for the belt change and coolant flush sometime in the spring. your maintenance guide will list mileage AND time for the replacement schedule, like what is shown here: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance.html Timing belt is listed for replacement at 105 months (8.75 years). I'd go ahead and do them if it were my car because age does take a toll on these items, and it is a crucial thing to do BEFORE something fails. The kit from rock auto shown a few posts back looks really good, NTN ans NSK are OEM suppliers, so that's a good bet at a very good price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
59ctd Posted December 30, 2016 Share Posted December 30, 2016 Ah yes I notice the months now in the maint chart. Guess I am at about the right time to be doing them. I thought the same thing about the Rock Auto kit mentioned. Looks like quality components in that kit. I've ordered from them many a time for parts for my Dodge Cummins in the past and was always pleased. Thanks for the reply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dishwasher Posted December 30, 2016 Author Share Posted December 30, 2016 59ctd, if you decide to do your timing belt, and are looking for a cam lock tool, I will sell you the one I just got for a reasonable price. I'm thinking I'll need a new shortblock before I have to do my timing belt again. Shoot me a PM. I'm planning on doing my timing belt this weekend, I'll post a review on here of the Aisin kit fitment etc. Brought to you by Pfizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08 LGT Posted December 31, 2016 Share Posted December 31, 2016 You really should have changed that belt, idlers and water pump months ago . Yes, the maintenance schedule for those is 105,000 miles or 105 months (8 years, 9 months), whichever comes first. That belt is about 3+ years overdue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooNo2 Posted January 2, 2017 Share Posted January 2, 2017 You can make your own cam gear holder which is similar to the company 23 on by using 2 3/8 drive breaker bars or ratcheting breaker bars that lock with 10 mm hex drive sockets. The metal for the avcs cam gear is not very strong and may strip if you over tighten the 3 screws that hold the little triangular cover on. You line up the marks and the gears and hold it in place while you route the belt around per instructions. i also used small metal spring clamps to hold the belt on the gears after I aligned the belt to the gear to prevent it from slipping off. I do like the unboxing that was done on this aisin kit. The quality looks very nice. i decided to edit after i saw basically the same info in another thread http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/possibly-screwed-up-timing-belt-change-258874.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dishwasher Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 Installed the kit. The install went ok. Took me about 8 hours as this was my first time doing a timing belt, and I was terrified. Aisin kit went in well, the one caveat to that is that it did not come with a feeler gauge for the space in between the timing belt and guides. The instructions indicate the space needs to be .02in - .06in, which is about 1mm. I stuck two sheets of thin non-corrugated cardboard in the gap to measure about 1mm, we'll see if that's going to fly or not. I turned the engine over about 5 times before putting the cover on and did not detect any rubbing. The timing marks were lined up every time. Crank pulley seemed ok. I'll replace it soon as preventative maintenance anyway. The car does not seem particularly corroded at this point, probably a result of it being garage parked for most of its life. However the Kartboy pulley is so cheap (and still 2.5lbs), I might as well. The belt I pulled off seemed fine, the teeth were the same height as the incoming belt. However the idler pulleys I took off were all noisy and clearly on their way out. The tensioner pulley was leaking. The OEM water pump seemed discolored, but fine. I replaced it anyway. There was oil under this brass panel when I removed it. I'm not sure if oil should be in there or not, any input would be appreciated. The 5th gear + brakes (although I have no idea how the brakes would have any effect on this with the rear wheels on the ground) method of keeping the crank pulley from moving scared the crap out of me. I ended up using my alternator belt to keep it still instead, along with the cam shaft locking tool. It worked fine. Hilariously/Terrifyingly I lost the shaft that goes in the timing belt tensioner that the bolt sits in. It is somewhere in the engine bay, I cannot find it. I have no idea how I lost a piece so large. It will probably grenade my engine one day. That area under the intake manifold is a freaking black hole. I ended up using the shaft from the old tensioner. My Husky 3/8" socket wrench died halfway through the project (it reverts to neutral when tightening or loosening, making you have to hold the lever to do anything ). It's had a good 10 year run, but it's time to upgrade to something more long term (eternity would be nice). Any recommendations on socket sets? I found a severed ground attached the the passenger side header heat shield. I'll have to take care of sooner rather than later. It probably won't make a difference, but I can't imagine a missing ground is good. Engine started ok and didn't make any weird sounds (it was actually quieter then before the install most likely on account of the new pulleys). Checked for leaks, and everything was fine. I ran out of coolant, but I have enough to make it to autozone. It's only 10 degrees out and 1 mile away, I don't think it'll overheat in that time (i have about 1.5 gallons in there). Anyways I couldn't have done this without the help of the people on this forum. Many thanks to everyone. Brought to you by Pfizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dishwasher Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 Also the above pic is one I found online and not a picture of my engine. Brought to you by Pfizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 Ground straps, make your own, http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN5215_zps4651c6e9.jpg http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN5218_zps47b42c1c.jpg Tools, Craftsman is the first choice or Harbor Fright. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dishwasher Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 Thanks Max, I was gonna buy the $150 NOS 50whp+ fast and furious extreme ground kit, but I think I'll DIY it per your recommendation. I picked up 10 feet of 10 gauge wire with some Peak Long Life Coolant at Autozone. Car drove fine, although the rpms dipped a bit as I shifted into neutral while stopping at a light. I'll chalk that up to the ecu reset (since the battery was disconnected during the t-belt install). I took it easy since the cooling system still needs to be burped. Pretty sure I have an up pipe or header exhaust leak. Engine bay has been smelling like exhaust lately. That'll be my next project after I do my rear brakes tomorrow. Brought to you by Pfizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesA Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 Oil under that cover plate is normal. That is the AVCS (valve control) which is oil-actuated. Make sure to fix the grounds soon since they prevent corrosion and are needed for the engine sensors to work properly. You can find braided flat ground cables already made for not too much money. Whatever wire is used, it has to survive a lot of movement and vibration. Crimped connections are better than soldered connections in this case. The bright side of breaking tools is you get to buy new ones! If you want inexpensive, Harbor Freight has the Pro line nowadays which are surprisingly good for the money with "no questions asked" lifetime warranty. Don't forget to bring your 20% or 25% off coupon you can just print or show them on your smartphone. For those tight spaces in the Subaru engine bay, try Pittsburgh Pro item #67994 long reach dual flex head ratchet. Amazingly useful, though not for high-torque applications. Item #96782 3/8" swivel head ratchet is very versatile. Item #62311 1/2" adjustable length ratchet is handy. Kobalt has some decent tools nowadays with lifetime warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dishwasher Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 Thanks Miles. Fixed the ground at least temporarily. Wrapped 10 gauge wire around the two bolts. I'll pick up a crimping tool and some proper clamps with my new ratchet. Apparently that ground was the cause of the slight bumpiness in my idle. Neat. Brought to you by Pfizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dishwasher Posted January 9, 2017 Author Share Posted January 9, 2017 It is ridiculous how less noisy the car is after the timing belt change. It also turns out that Husky hand tools have a life time warranty. I will go to Home Depot tonight to see if they'll honor it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Brought to you by Pfizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 It is ridiculous how less noisy the car is after the timing belt change. Not so much the belt, more the pulleys/idlers. Less friction means more power & efficiency, too LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dishwasher Posted January 10, 2017 Author Share Posted January 10, 2017 Yup absolutely. Also Home Depot honored the warranty, got a new 100piece socket set for Free99. I get the impression that it was the return lady's first day on the job, so YMMV. Brought to you by Pfizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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