Veekster87 Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 So i have an 05 lgt 100k miles new killer b oil pick up. One the car has been driven for 20-30 minutes and gets nice and hot once you let off the pedal and come to idle oil light comes on then goes away pretty much immidatly. I currently have 5-30 royal purple in it any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 You need to drop the oil pan and make sure the bolts are tight holding the pick up to the pump. Stop using RP oil go to Shell Rotella t6 5w-40 year round. I seem to recall RP is just a little bit better than Mobil 1 5w-30, which is not to used in these engines. I'll also assume the timing belt has been replaced recently ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veekster87 Posted July 24, 2016 Author Share Posted July 24, 2016 Ill do that asap and i notice a small oil leak coming from timing area so was going to have the timing done asap but since the oil light came on wanted to make sure i didnt have. Catastrophic failure about to happen before i drop $1000 for that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 At this point the timing belt is a age related thing. The crank and or cam seals are known seeping problems with some of these cars. If your cam seals need replacing, REMOVE the filter from the banjo bolt behind the drivers side cam cover. When the oil pressure is fixed, get the car off the factory MAP asap. It's not good for the exhaust valves and ring lands on the pistons. See post # 95 here, http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/bad-news-bears-need-help-250290p3.html 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veekster87 Posted July 24, 2016 Author Share Posted July 24, 2016 Thanks for the heads up! I was thinkin the banjo bolt was on the the turbo oil line that goes into the block? Is that just from different models? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veekster87 Posted July 24, 2016 Author Share Posted July 24, 2016 Not sure how relevant this is but also has a FMIC set up greddy bov with greddy cat back exhaust i have a catless invidia dp i was going to install and get it tuned but it is currently on stock tune ( just wanna get oil light problem taken care of prior to tune and timing belt) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 In 05-06 the oil feed lines have the banjo filters on the front and back of the heads. The banjo at the turbo is just a orifice for flow and pressure. IMO you need a tune for the fmic and bov. Will need a tune for the DP and catless up pipe. In my click here link you'll see where I DEI heat wrapped my Invidia DP. BTW, where do you live ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 Change your oil pressure sending unit first and see if it stops the light coming on. They fail and there is no CEL when they do. Look at the top of it and see if there is oil coming out around the bakelite and I'll bet that's your issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 Lets hope its that simple. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veekster87 Posted July 24, 2016 Author Share Posted July 24, 2016 Definetly plan on a tune asap but surgeline said they dont feel safe tuning with oil light on and i should fix that first i also plan on going vf52 for my tune. And i live in central oregon high desert about 4500 ft elevation. I talked to subaru about new sending unit its 100$ do the ebay one work okay? And havnt found an ebay one yet that said it actually fits 05 lgt. But no oil coming out of that area Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 Were not big fans of ebay for turbos. Only buy from a trusted vendor. PM JmP6889928 he's our go to guy for turbo's. But yes get the oil issue fixed first. You can also pick up a cheap direct reading oil pressure gauge and T it in to the stock sensor and see what the direct gauge reads. I'm not a fan of electronic oil pressure gauges, I'm old school. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veekster87 Posted July 24, 2016 Author Share Posted July 24, 2016 Sry meant ebay oil pressure sensor and i do have a oil pressure guage on order bit its oil filter adapter style Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 Most any auto parts store will have a direct reading oil pressure gauge and the T fitting. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted July 26, 2016 Share Posted July 26, 2016 Most any auto parts store will have a direct reading oil pressure gauge and the T fitting. I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge ($20-$25 at most auto parts stores) under the hood of my car mounted to the DS front corner of the car and I call it the Truth Gauge. We put a complete set of gauges under the hood of our race cars so if a gauge on the dash went to 0 or full on, we would immediately come in, pull the hood, look at the truth gauges, and if they were reading OK, then hood down and back out. If they were reading problems, then we generally had saved the engine by having a back up system. I agree on not trusting electrical gauges much and I have an electric AEM OP gauge inside, but it's always reading a PSI or two lower than the truth gauge, and they are both plumbed to the same spot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veekster87 Posted July 26, 2016 Author Share Posted July 26, 2016 Quick question went to look at the t6 oil and they all say for heavy diesel motors is this the oil everyones been using or so the stores here just not carry gas versions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted July 26, 2016 Share Posted July 26, 2016 T6 oil is for turbo engines. Diesels almost all run turbos, so it (T6) has high zinc content, which is very good for journal bearings in turbos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldsoda Posted July 26, 2016 Share Posted July 26, 2016 Quick question went to look at the t6 oil and they all say for heavy diesel motors is this the oil everyones been using or so the stores here just not carry gas versions? ^ what JMP said. safe for all gas cars and motorcycles actually. a good article for reading more here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2714154 ps. I run Rotella T6 in the following vehicles at my house: 2016 outback 3.6r, 2008 legacy spec b, 2002 subaru wrx, 2007 honda vfr, 2014 bmw s1000r. great oil for the price. if I was a baller, I'd run redline, but really the T6 works very well. even more reading on bobistheoilguy if you want to dive down the rabbit hole a bit... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted July 26, 2016 Share Posted July 26, 2016 T6 oil is for turbo engines. Diesels almost all run turbos, so it (T6) has high zinc content, which is very good for journal bearings in turbos. Just check that the other figures aside from viscosity are covered for your engine and you are good to go. Diesels have the ACEA codings like C2, C3 etc, but they don't matter for gasoline engines. For gasoline engines it's the API classification that you shall look at, the higher the better (in general). See also http://www.pqiamerica.com/apiserviceclass.htm For the turbo engines we have SN or SM is preferred. Notice that older standards may be aggressive to the seals in newer engines. And older standards may require more frequent oil change intervals as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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