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Big Issue of my new HID from Xeon Factory, Need Help, Help.


kelviny

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Second Issue, The HID is terrible now, I feel the orginal headlight look much better than my new HID light, because the HID is so weak, Can you believe, I turn on my HID headlight, but I can't see the road, I can't see the light beam where they point to, very terrible, when I drive raining at night, I can't see the car in front of me. I believe that must be something wrong, either the HID itself, or the instatllation process. The store, insist, they are right. can anyone give me some idea, and how to fix.

 

Please, Plase Help, Thanks.

 

It should be very easy to check if the shop install your bulbs right. Do you know how to check that?

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Link to my install http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12080

 

As to the DRL's, my ballasts are powered through relays directly from the battery and they would not trigger with the DRL's hooked up. Once I disconnected the DRL harness, all was well.

 

yes i bet the you only grounded the relay with the kit and the ballasts are using the low beam ground circuits. that is your prob. if you want drl functionality ground everything separate. there should only be one hook-up to the oem cirucit that way and it is the + low beam to trigger the relay or relays.

 

peace

MAYHEM

#122/22 STS NNJR SCCA

AUTOX4U.COM

 

XENON RETRO GUIDE

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nope.. if u use halogen projector, it wont look good.

 

are you speaking from experience from doing this on the LGT, or just assuming something from previous installs? :confused:

 

I have the 4200K kit and it looks fine....brighter than stock, no glare, sharp cutoff.....

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this is completey wrong. the legacy drls are controlled by the ground on the low beam circuit. it is what is varied not the +12. with drls on the ground reads about 3-4 volts with them off 0. the low beam + is a full 12+ volts!! drl or not!!! thats another reason why kits suck. they power right off oem wires. they should be powered directly off the battery in the first place. you risk frying the oem headlamp circuits if something was to go nutty with your ballasts. the only reason why your kits wont light up with drls connected is because they use the oem ground. you change that and see what happens, however they should still be triggered via a relay and powered directly from the battery. that is the ultimate "clean power"

 

peace

 

the xenonfactory kit connects directly to the battery through relays for 12V+ and grounds for 12V-. The connectors to the factory leads are for turn-on triggers only.

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yes i bet the you only grounded the relay with the kit and the ballasts are using the low beam ground circuits. that is your prob. if you want drl functionality ground everything separate. there should only be one hook-up to the oem cirucit that way and it is the + low beam to trigger the relay or relays.

 

peace

 

Nope. Both the relays and ballasts are grounded to the chassis. The only part of the OEM low beam circuit that is tapped is the positive lead to trigger the relays. It should work with the DRL's, but it doesn't. Since I wanted to disable the DRL's anyways, I didn't bother to figure out why.

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Nope. Both the relays and ballasts are grounded to the chassis. The only part of the OEM low beam circuit that is tapped is the positive lead to trigger the relays. It should work with the DRL's, but it doesn't. Since I wanted to disable the DRL's anyways, I didn't bother to figure out why.

 

not sure if you know this but drl only works when the ebrake is off. i have an MT what about you. maybe autos are setup diff??? do you have to be in drive for them to go on?

 

i made a complete matrix, checked, and measured the headlamps circuits both high and low under every possible condition. in both cases drl activated or low beam switched on the the low beam + alwasy read full voltage. im using a standard bosch 30amp relay. theres no way my car is special. there must be something more going on here.

MAYHEM

#122/22 STS NNJR SCCA

AUTOX4U.COM

 

XENON RETRO GUIDE

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the relay wouldn't trigger then if it was pulsing. it would keep cutting the current draw from the battery to power the ballasts. there is absolutley no way that is happening on my car or it wouldn't work. i'm not the only one running this setup. there should be 2 more guys i sold parts to. the one is doing his complete projector retro this weekend and i just shipped him an identical harness. it will work flawlessly. again there's no way our cars are special. maybe its the ballasts in the kit i have no idea. all i know is a hella gen 4 d2s system wired the way i specified works exactly as the oem setup did. i can't speak for non oem xenon parts. i have no experience with them. i only deal with oem stuff.

MAYHEM

#122/22 STS NNJR SCCA

AUTOX4U.COM

 

XENON RETRO GUIDE

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Running a full OEM setup here. Matsushita ballasts/igniters and Phillips capsules, sans the retrofit projectors, of course ;) I actually plugged my DRL's back in just for giggles, and my lights did not turn on without manually switching them on. As I said before, I'm only using the OEM low beam wiring to trigger the relays. Power to the relay/ballasts is directly from the battery and both are grounded directly to the chassis. Who know why your DRL circuit runs your HID and mine doesn't. It doesn't bother me in the least since I don't want DRL's anyways.
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Who know why your DRL circuit runs your HID and mine doesn't. It doesn't bother me in the least since I don't want DRL's anyways.

 

it is mind boggling though. i want to know wtf is going on here. how or where did you tap in? i used a male spade connector and put it in the h7 connector inside the lamp. also i would assume your car is a MT?

MAYHEM

#122/22 STS NNJR SCCA

AUTOX4U.COM

 

XENON RETRO GUIDE

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I go back to the store which help me setup the HID for question, They told me, it is because my headlight is projector type, and this is the issue, the light should be go straight, they told me my car have a big half circle crystal ball inside the headlight which diffuse the light to both side, so the light not target in front of the car. Is this true, anyone have any idea, bcause now the situation is very worse, the hid light source, is very weak which I can not see the front car on the road. My light don't have the flicking problem, because the guy told me the by pass the DRL, and rewire another wire to the earth, so they can get rid of the flicking issue, and keep the DRL.

If you don't understand, forgive, me because I don't understand either, I'm dumme for this kind of thing. They say if plug-out the DRL, will have signal light keep on panel, is it true? Now whatever day, and night, my hid keep turn on. But Anyway, anyone, know or any idea, how to fix the problem of the light source too, too weak, anyone have meet same or similar,and can tell me how to solve. Would that I bought the wrong HID bulb? I bought the kit package from XeonFactory, the 4100k philips kit.

 

Help, help, help, big problem, please help,, THanks.

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I go back to the store which help me setup the HID for question, They told me, it is because my headlight is projector type, and this is the issue, the light should be go straight, they told me my car have a big half circle crystal ball inside the headlight which diffuse the light to both side, so the light not target in front of the car. Is this true, anyone have any idea, bcause now the situation is very worse, the hid light source, is very weak which I can not see the front car on the road. My light don't have the flicking problem, because the guy told me the by pass the DRL, and rewire another wire to the earth, so they can get rid of the flicking issue, and keep the DRL.

If you don't understand, forgive, me because I don't understand either, I'm dumme for this kind of thing. They say if plug-out the DRL, will have signal light keep on panel, is it true? Now whatever day, and night, my hid keep turn on. But Anyway, anyone, know or any idea, how to fix the problem of the light source too, too weak, anyone have meet same or similar,and can tell me how to solve. Would that I bought the wrong HID bulb? I bought the kit package from XeonFactory, the 4100k philips kit.

 

Help, help, help, big problem, please help,, THanks.

 

Your install is definately no good. Where do you live? Im guessing that a local member would be more than willing to check it out. I have a McCulloch 5300k set and they look great. Strong output and very bright. Much better than the stock halogens.

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