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At Oil Temp and Brake lights flashing and VDC light solid


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Everything I was planning to order is returnable so I odrdered the parts. Shipping brought the total to $731.60

 

See if you have any blocked passages if the valve body bottom stack will be visible.

 

I'm not quite sure what you mean by valve body bottom stack. But I'll take them out and inspect them closely before putting the new ones in, same with the oil strainer assembly.

 

Or you could buy a new jack...

 

A big part of fixing it myself is to save money, if I bought all the tools and equipment I would like to have in order to make this job easier the total bill would be the same or more than having the "professionals" replace the transmission. You and I know the value of tools and equipment and how they make projects go faster, smoother, and easier. They can be used many times on many other projects but wives don't always see it the same way. Besides, I'm currently in an apartment and don't have anywhere to put all the equipment I'd love to have.

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I believe harbor freight or amazon has a hand crank transmission jack which is fairly compact. You can also see if your local auto parts store rents them out. But personally I think it's doable with a standard floor jack like you have hydraulic or not and some patience, with properly placed blocks of wood to support the trans as you lift it. You should be able to find some scrap 2x4s surely.

 

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I think my lift maxes out at 13 inches. I don't know the height of the transmission or the minimum height of a transmission lift but I assume the combined height would be more than 13 inches. I stumbled upon the FSM procedures for swapping out the transmission and I think it might be beyond my capabilities.

 

I discovered car-part.com today and I'm kicking myself for not finding it sooner. They have some low mileage used transmissions for close to what I paid for parts. No idea what the shipping on one would be. If I "return" the parts (that haven't shipped yet) I face a 15% restocking fee.

 

Does anyone know how many hours the book calls for when swapping out a transmission? I'm wondering if I could source a transmission and have it installed for cheaper than what I was quoted even when accounting for the restocking fees. I guess that depends on how much of the quote was transmission mark-up and how much was for labor. Remember the quote I got over the phone was "we put a used transmission in a 2013 subaru last week for $2300" nothing was specified.

 

Having a week in-between opportunities to work on the car gives me lots of time to second guess myself. Where is the icon of the guy smashing his head into the brick wall when you need him? :confused:

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I would guess, less than $1k for installation. But, then you would need to be trusting the shop to do it all right and not ruin a perfectly good used transmission , which they aren't going to warranty anyway.

 

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Most junk yards will give u a 30 day warranty on a transmission. If they dont, don't buy it. There is never a guarantee that it will be good. If you take a jy trans to a shop and ask to install it, they might, but there will be no warranty on labor so if the trans is bad, you end up paying double labor. Junk yards are really a hit or miss and it all depends if you are feeling lucky.
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I received an email at 2:26pm, my parts have shipped! I have a tracking number but it's not in the system yet. I'm hoping the high shipping fee was for next day delivery. I plan to have the pan off and the internals inspected tonight. If the parts show up tomorrow morning I could be test driving Sunday. Or they might not show up until Wednesday/Thursday due to the Holiday weekend and it'll be my 3rd week without my car.
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Looks like I won't be doing much work this weekend.

 

Fedex says:

Scheduled delivery:

Wed 7/06/2016 by end of day

 

It's supposed to rain tomorrow so I've got it in the garage and up on the stands. I'm getting the tools out now, wish me luck that the pan is dirt and debris free!

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I should have said "wish me luck at getting the pan off." I would believe the bolts were torqued to the FSM specified 3.7 ft-lb but I wasn't expecting the form in place gasket to be so strong. Don't be fooled, the 13 bolts have nothing to do with holding pan on. I think are only useful for holding the pan on until the gasket is dry. That sucker might as well be welded on. Anyone with experience removing tranny pans out there? Any and all ideas are welcome. I can't even get a razor blade in between the pan and the tranny to cut it off.
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The color on the bolts is the color of the gasket. The gasket is squished out around the edges neat and uniformly, but every bolt hole is coated.

 

I think the fluid looks pretty good but about 3.5 quarts were changed last week so that probably doesn't mean much.

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I used a hammer to very very gently tap a razor blade in there and then wiggled it around with locking plyers. I got about halfway across one of the sides then popped it the rest of the way with 3 gentle wiggles of a pry bar. I doubt I pryed hard enough to bend anything but I'll check in the morning. I poured out the remaining fluid from the pan and didn't see any chunks or debris other than some small pieces of the gasket that got forced in during the cutting process. The guts were still dripping so I put the pan back in place with four bolts each about two turns in. There should be less dripping from the inards in the morning so I can check more thoroughly. I'll take pictures of all the bits and pieces I can get to.
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I should have said "wish me luck at getting the pan off." I would believe the bolts were torqued to the FSM specified 3.7 ft-lb but I wasn't expecting the form in place gasket to be so strong. Don't be fooled, the 13 bolts have nothing to do with holding pan on. I think are only useful for holding the pan on until the gasket is dry. That sucker might as well be welded on. Anyone with experience removing tranny pans out there? Any and all ideas are welcome. I can't even get a razor blade in between the pan and the tranny to cut it off.

 

I was going to suggest a heat gun to soften the gasket up, but it sounds like you were able to remove it.

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I got everything apart and got a real close look at the innards. Nothing looks too bad to me but I don't know as much as I'd like to.

 

There was a coating of fine metallic particles on both sides of the fluid filter, the solenoids, the pan and quite a lot on the magnet on the pan. These particles are very small and had very little texture. If I had to describe it I would say it felt like graphite powder (commonly used as a dry lubricant) suspended in oil. There were not any particles, gunk, junk, or pieces larger then this fine metallic substance. I'm thinking/hoping this is remnants of the break in period that were not washed away with any previous fluid changes.

 

I don't know exactly how much fluid came out all together, but it was quite a bit. It filled an entire 15 pound cat litter jug (show next to the 1 gallon tea jug from last week for size).

 

I did a resistance test of the solenoids on the internal harness. This part of the evidence still points to a bad lock up Duty solenoid pin 2.

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I used a hammer to very very gently tap a razor blade in there and then wiggled it around with locking plyers. I got about halfway across one of the sides then popped it the rest of the way with 3 gentle wiggles of a pry bar. I doubt I pryed hard enough to bend anything but I'll check in the morning. I poured out the remaining fluid from the pan and didn't see any chunks or debris other than some small pieces of the gasket that got forced in during the cutting process. The guts were still dripping so I put the pan back in place with four bolts each about two turns in. There should be less dripping from the inards in the morning so I can check more thoroughly. I'll take pictures of all the bits and pieces I can get to.

 

If you're worried you might have bent it check it against a a straight edge before reassembly, really quick way to avoid leaks. I also agree that what's in the pan looks like normal residue. With that little metal on the magnet I doubt that you've ruined anything inside. If you ever get anything more than the fine stuff on the magnet you need to dig deeper and see what gears it came from, or replace the trans.

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I'll check it over real well after I get it all cleaned up. The new parts were delivered this morning. Is it Friday yet? I'm itching to put this thing back together.

 

Have any of you ever gone 3 weeks without your own car? I don't recommend it.

 

I'm decent at working on cars but until now I have never touched a transmission. One good and bad thing about this ordeal is that my in-laws are figuring out that I'm good with tools. I think I may go from "son in law" to "family mechanic." At the very least I can advise them away from the scammers.

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I'm decent at working on cars but until now I have never touched a transmission. One good and bad thing about this ordeal is that my in-laws are figuring out that I'm good with tools. I think I may go from "son in law" to "family mechanic." At the very least I can advise them away from the scammers.

 

I try to keep quiet that I am good DIY mechanic so I am not working on everyone else cars. I barely have time to fix my own. One of my good friends is constantly working on everyone else cars and his 2nd car gets neglected.

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I left work early so I could get to the in-laws and start working on the car sooner.

 

Awfully big box for the parts. Unfortunately they left out part number 11126aa040, the gasket o ring for the drain bolt. I'll have to check if any of the local autopart stores have one. I often reuse parts but it was wet looking around the bolt before I drained the fluid last week.

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