xt2005bonbon Posted July 25, 2016 Author Share Posted July 25, 2016 In for another build. Dang it Oh, if you mean the valve clearance job,then ok that's cool. But if you mean another SB, then no that's not cool . I can tell you my bucket #s tonight if I get around to it, but I don't want to get rid of any until I know I can't use it/them in a week or two. So a week or two huh. ok. but yeah, please provide the list just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted July 25, 2016 Share Posted July 25, 2016 Dang it Oh, if you mean the valve clearance job,then ok that's cool. But if you mean another SB, then no that's not cool . Just in case. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted July 26, 2016 Author Share Posted July 26, 2016 Byron, I just had a look at your cylinder wall scratches from your old engine (see below). Looks like just #2 had these. You never threw a misfire CEL with these? Thanks for the tip on the TVG's, I have this nice little SS wire brushed that should do a good job without to much pressure. Kevin, your not helping me here ...I don't need to spend more money. It's making 280whp on the mustang dyno that's about 300 on other dyno's. With the heads porting Eastwoods is doing I should pick up a few more. Here's the old cylinders, I'll try and post #2 top side the worst first. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4761.jpg http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4760.jpg http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4759.jpg http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4758.jpg http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4757.jpg These are #1 & 3, #4 looks like 1 & 3. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4756.jpg http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4755.jpg http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4754.jpg Not bad for dino oil and 154,000 miles. Have to run now, need food. They also said the heads looked good, nothing like what they see a lot of from the dealership. I asked them how they got the cams out, they went to the dealership and borrowed the tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted July 26, 2016 Share Posted July 26, 2016 Speaking for Max here, you only throw a code if there is not enough compression in the cylinder and the ECU detects that the O2 sensor is picking up more un-burnt gas. That's when the compression test is done to determine with cylinder is failing. I had the typical cracked ringland in my #4 cylinder and I didn't throw a code. It only drank a bunch of oil, but the compression was fair at 121psi. I've seen some with compression less then 90psi which is failing. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted July 26, 2016 Author Share Posted July 26, 2016 Sure. I understand. FJuan, did you have significant marks on your cylinder walls in #4? In my case, my engine hardly burns oil. But then again, Rhitter had a failed ringland in #4 and was not burning any oil either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted July 26, 2016 Share Posted July 26, 2016 Yes there was some good scoring on #4 around the cracked ringland area. That's probably why I was loosing a lot of oil through seepage. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted July 27, 2016 Author Share Posted July 27, 2016 I see. Do you recall on which side of the cylinder walls the scoring was? Top or bottom? Or left or right (facing the piston). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted July 27, 2016 Share Posted July 27, 2016 It was the upper left side of the piston/cylinder. I'll check if I can find some pics of it. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 27, 2016 Share Posted July 27, 2016 Byron, I just had a look at your cylinder wall scratches from your old engine (see below). Looks like just #2 had these. You never threw a misfire CEL with these? Right, never had a CEL. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted July 27, 2016 Author Share Posted July 27, 2016 It was the upper left side of the piston/cylinder. I'll check if I can find some pics of it. ok. Yeah, if you can, please post a pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted July 27, 2016 Share Posted July 27, 2016 Here's my bucket list in case you didn't see it over in my thread. LHS 501, 501 (ground), 498, 498 (ground), 497, 496, 496, 495 RHS 507, 506, 506, 504, 503, 503, 501, 500 My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted July 27, 2016 Author Share Posted July 27, 2016 Here's my bucket list in case you didn't see it over in my thread. LHS 501, 501 (ground), 498, 498 (ground), 497, 496, 496, 495 RHS 507, 506, 506, 504, 503, 503, 501, 500 mmh. I'll let you know but looks like those are too thick already . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted July 27, 2016 Share Posted July 27, 2016 mmh. I'll let you know but looks like those are too thick already . I showed you mine, now show me yours My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted July 27, 2016 Author Share Posted July 27, 2016 1 502 3 504 1 505 2 476 1 483 2 484 4 494 1 496 I may reuse a couple of those though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted July 29, 2016 Author Share Posted July 29, 2016 A quick question... I am planning to send my injectors to get checked out. Although all the valves are currently closed, I don't want fuel to pour in the engine while I pull all four injectors. Any tips to minimize this? For the record, I did pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine prior to the valve clearance job. But still I bet some fuel remains in the fuel lines.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 Disconnect the fuel lines by the IM, turn the intake manifold upside down, let the fuel drain out of the hose. Easy! When I pulled mine a while back I actually took out the pump's fuse while the car was running. It sputters and spits and then stalls, but that's the whole point. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted July 29, 2016 Author Share Posted July 29, 2016 mmh, I can't turn the intake manifold upside down as it is bolted in place. Also, I have those special fuel clamps things holding the fuel lines in place. And I don't have the tool to properly disconnect them. Dang it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 I was kind of joking about taking off the whole IM, cause that would be hilarious to see somebody go through all of that work just to empty the fuel from the lines When my crappy plastic fuel line disconnect tool broke I looked at the other end of the hose... it's only connected with a little phillips screw hose clamp. 3 minutes and the hoses are disconnected. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted July 29, 2016 Author Share Posted July 29, 2016 You see. I am such a naive guy . I'll have to check if mine has just phillips screw type clamp on the other end of the hoses. Also, FJuan, I still want to see the pic of your cylinder walls . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 Just pull the fuel pump fuse and turn the motor over several times, that will pull most of the fuel out of the lines. Then disconnect the lines either from the quick connects or at the FPR on the sub frame. Let it sit overnight to let the remaining fuel evaporate from the lines. Easy cheesy Edit: I looked for those pics and I must have deleted them, I mostly have pics of my motor rebuild. Sorry. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted July 29, 2016 Author Share Posted July 29, 2016 ^I did that already two months ago (fuel pump fuse pulled+crank engine). But I know there are some remaining fuel in there. I'll figure out how to disconnect the lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 I have a set of these that I bought from a local auto parts store for around $12. Worked every time, but now I got rid of the disconnects and have a standard fuel hose with clamps. http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_12488.jpg My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted July 30, 2016 Author Share Posted July 30, 2016 alright, so I need the following bucket sizes: 458 479 480 485 499 If I don't hear from anyone by tonight, then I'll just order them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted July 31, 2016 Moderators Share Posted July 31, 2016 I have a 485 and a 499. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted July 31, 2016 Author Share Posted July 31, 2016 Those are actually measured values you are posting right? If yes I am interested . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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