Door panel removal/sound deadening install...with pics

[str8dwn]

The key to getting through the black urethane holding the plastic is to carefully use a razor to simply slice the gummy urethane as you pull the plastic gently off the door. It will easily go back in place when done and it doesn't get everywhere.

 

Simply because on my last car, I did remove the moisture barrier, which was held on by grease with the consistency of melted cheese, IOW a freakin' MESS! The LGT apparantly had the same grease holding on the plastic barrier, I didn't want to mess (pun not intended) with it.

[dr_sharp]

Nice install but the sound deadening is supposed to adhere directly to the door panel. Placing it on the plastic panel cover won't do nearly as good of a job at deadening. I just wanted to point that out since it seems that many people have followed your instructions here.

[Meltdown07]

Sorry to resurrect this thread again, but I have a question. Does anyone know if these sound deadening materials or ones of similar quality are purchasable at any retailers? Like a hardware store or something. I'm doing a speaker install today and want to do this too, but I dont really want to delay doing the speaker install (doing a roadtrip this weekend) so I'd rather pick some stuff up locally today.

 

I searched a couple hardware stores website's but havent had any luck so far. Anyone know of a good place to go purchase this stuff?

[suds2250]

Try Fry's

[deneb]

You might check a car stereo place, they should at least have dynamat, dunno about the v-comp though. Dynamat will be expensive if purchased locally though.

[Stewart_Marler]

For anyone interested, you can get the outer partof the grab handle off by grabbing it real hard and twisting it around the fixed part. It takes some grunt, but it's way safer than screwdrivers.

[Powerman]

For anyone interested, you can get the outer partof the grab handle off by grabbing it real hard and twisting it around the fixed part. It takes some grunt, but it's way safer than screwdrivers.

 

That does not sound good at all. You have no idea how close you are to breaking the fixed part. Maybe you are not, but you don't know. I recently did a lot of work to my stereo and doors. I've probably had my door panels off 20 times now just like the write up said. Get the screw drivers in and it leaves no marks that are visible.

[Stewart_Marler]

Powerman, we might have to agree to disagree on this one. I too have taken my fair share of door trims off in my time. The one thing I find dicey levering things with screwdrivers is that you cant be sure you are applying the force in the right spot ie where the clip is, rather than somewhere that will break or leave a mark. This is because the clips are usually just far enough inside something that you cant see it.

 

In the case of the door grip (and I won't vouch for it being the right option in other circumstances), you can acually feel the clip's position as you twist it. If you pay attention and feel what the clip is doing, you can direct the motion in such away that it llevers the clip out. I have use screwdrivers for a lot of clip removal, but in this case, this worked best.

 

It might not sound good, but once you try it, you'll see it is quite intuitive.

 

But each to their own, hey? you know what, the fact that we each actually care about it probably puts us a few levels above some of the "professionals" out there!

[Powerman]

OK, sounds good. I'm certainly no expert. I've had to remove my LGT panels a lot for various reasons recently, but I had to read this write up to figure out how. The care one takes is definitely related to the results one achieves.

 

Later.

[badfish11]

So there is really a noticeable decrease in road noise from just putting one roll (13.5 sq feet) in the 4 doors only?

 

Before I order this stuff I want to make sure I'm not setting myself up for a dissappointment here.

[wcbjr]

I used Dynamat Extreme bought in bulk off eBay on all 4 doors, the entire trunk lid, and under the rear seat. Before I got my catless downpipe, I killed the car a few times because I couldn't hear the Bosal catback. Quiet as could be. Can't hear my 2 JL 10's outside the car.

[deneb]

So there is really a noticeable decrease in road noise from just putting one roll (13.5 sq feet) in the 4 doors only?

 

Before I order this stuff I want to make sure I'm not setting myself up for a dissappointment here.

 

Noticable? Yes. It won't eliminate road noise however, though I don't think any aftermarket product can do that. I should've tested the before and after with my SPL meter, that would've been useful.

[groundhogdog]

First, Id like to thank Deneb for his original post. (link here) I was also going crazy with the passenger door rattle. It was especially noticeable with the stereo at moderate levels. I have removed door panels many times, but the Subaru seemed a little mysterious. Thanks to Deneb, the following additional pictures are possible.

 

I did get rid of the vibration. The rattle is gone. What a huge relief.

 

I used Dynamat, (an adhesive sound deadening mat), and a small amount of spray foam. The spray foam went behind some of the existing manufacturers foam in the door panel, since it was a significant possibility for the source of the vibration. It was loose in areas, and seemed to sound consistent with the mysterious noise when rubbed. The foam was used (sparingly) to help firm the placement of the white manufacturer foam. My camera unfortunately ran out of battery after a few pictures, but the ones I captured should be helpful.

 

Picture 1 – this is from the removal of the door handle. As Deneb said, this is clearly the most difficult part of the removal. I used a thin putty knife on the top to pry the top “notch” loose. There is a notch on the bottom as well, but you should not have to pry it. Once it was loose, there are next two metal clasps (in the middle) holding the handle to the backing. If yu pry down gently, they should pop off. Remember the notch in the bottom though, you don’t wan to break it. Nothing broke when I did mine, and it did take a little force. You can see in the picture, the right piece is the back side of the handle, now removed. You can see the metal clasps.

 

Picture 2 – The cover behind the handle being removed.

 

Picture 3 – The screw behind the handle.

 

Picture 4 - The door panel popped off.

 

Picture 5 – The door panel, removed. This is where the noise was coming from. Unfortunately, my camera died, so I couldn’t take more pictures to show you where I placed the dynamat and the foam. I believe the vibration was coming from either the white foam, or a thin rubber diaphragm on the door frame. My bet is the foam. Either way, I sprayed a little foam spray behind the white foam, covered flat surfaces with dynamat, and replaced the door. The vibration is gone.

 

Picture 6- Just a warning. There is a black “tar” like gunk on the door. It is messy… be careful. Don’t get it on your speakers, or anything else you don’t want tar on .

 

Also, just as a note, you will need to unsnap three wire harnesses, and two cables. The cables come out very easy, they are just balls snapping into place.

 

Aside from getting the door handle off without damaging anything, getting the panel off is not to hard. I will do it again when I replace my speakers.

 

Good luck, hope this is helpful to someone.

[wcbjr]

Always nice to have pictures, thanks.

[icrackedcorn]

is panel removal possible with the door closed?

[wcbjr]

No.

 

And I have to ask, why would you try?

[icrackedcorn]

No.

 

And I have to ask, why would you try?

 

heh, well actually, My BD has a slightly different door, so I was able to get mine off with the door closed.

 

an accident jammed my rear driver side door shut, but the window/lock/speaker components were fine.

 

I was able to get the whole thing off from inside the car but i couldnt access the dents form there for various reasons.

BUT

 

after I got a second set of eyes on it, the bind was on the bottom edge of the door

2X4+mallet=open able door

 

following that, only some adjustment on the hinge was needed so it swung correctly

 

 

I took pictures for a possible walk through, as the process was similar, but my blind prodding caused some damage and coulda been even worse

 

should I post?

[str8dwn]

Working with the 'tar' (urethane I think) is easy and not messy if you slice it with a utility knife as you GENTLY pull the plastic sheeting away from the door. This eliminates any strings and mess. Then, putting the plastic back on is a cinch as that stuff sticks to itself.

 

Have you guys considered the non-marring tools from Eastwood for panel poppers and prying instead of screwdrivers? Comes in a set of 8 I think and very handly. They have one that's a big, wide flat version ideal for the handle prying and won't leave pry marks.

 

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=12214&itemType=PRODUCT

[fzanetti]

First, Id like to thank Deneb for his original post. (link here) I was also going crazy with the passenger door rattle. It was especially noticeable with the stereo at moderate levels. I have removed door panels many times, but the Subaru seemed a little mysterious. Thanks to Deneb, the following additional pictures are possible.

 

I did get rid of the vibration. The rattle is gone. What a huge relief.

 

I used Dynamat, (an adhesive sound deadening mat), and a small amount of spray foam. The spray foam went behind some of the existing manufacturers foam in the door panel, since it was a significant possibility for the source of the vibration. It was loose in areas, and seemed to sound consistent with the mysterious noise when rubbed. The foam was used (sparingly) to help firm the placement of the white manufacturer foam. My camera unfortunately ran out of battery after a few pictures, but the ones I captured should be helpful.

 

Picture 1 – this is from the removal of the door handle. As Deneb said, this is clearly the most difficult part of the removal. I used a thin putty knife on the top to pry the top “notch” loose. There is a notch on the bottom as well, but you should not have to pry it. Once it was loose, there are next two metal clasps (in the middle) holding the handle to the backing. If yu pry down gently, they should pop off. Remember the notch in the bottom though, you don’t wan to break it. Nothing broke when I did mine, and it did take a little force. You can see in the picture, the right piece is the back side of the handle, now removed. You can see the metal clasps.

 

Picture 2 – The cover behind the handle being removed.

 

Picture 3 – The screw behind the handle.

 

Picture 4 - The door panel popped off.

 

Picture 5 – The door panel, removed. This is where the noise was coming from. Unfortunately, my camera died, so I couldn’t take more pictures to show you where I placed the dynamat and the foam. I believe the vibration was coming from either the white foam, or a thin rubber diaphragm on the door frame. My bet is the foam. Either way, I sprayed a little foam spray behind the white foam, covered flat surfaces with dynamat, and replaced the door. The vibration is gone.

 

Picture 6- Just a warning. There is a black “tar” like gunk on the door. It is messy… be careful. Don’t get it on your speakers, or anything else you don’t want tar on .

 

Also, just as a note, you will need to unsnap three wire harnesses, and two cables. The cables come out very easy, they are just balls snapping into place.

 

Aside from getting the door handle off without damaging anything, getting the panel off is not to hard. I will do it again when I replace my speakers.

 

Good luck, hope this is helpful to someone.

 

Great write up and pics man...

 

Thanks

 

 

Flavio Zanetti

Boston, MA

[CTATV]

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[snowwhos]

Does anyone have left over V-comp?

[cino135]

very helpful write up, as i detached my drivers door (for kicks) today in under 10 mins. and that being PAINSTAKINGLY careful not to scratch any new material. too bad i didnt have to BALLZ to wire up my new separates. hoping the infinity 6022s (i think??.....6.5 seps) tweets will fit behind stock tweet location, as i know from taking door off that the xover will fit. just have to mod some spacers for the midbass and were golden. again, thanks for the write up and pics!

[subieleg]

sub

[Dergara]

Very nice and just the pictures I needed.

[monkonmonk]

subscribe...next mod for me...