TheKraken Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 Had compression and leak down performed: Cyl1: 130 psi, 21% leak Cyl2: 120 psi, 20% leak Cyl3: 140 psi, 20% leak Cyl4: 120 psi, 22% leak Car still runs and is completely driveable. Only symptom I have of a possible problem is a slight knock only on start-up or heavy acceleration. Question is... how much time do I have? And what are the chances of me needing rebuilt heads? I can get a brand new short-block for 2k~ or a long blocks starting at $3500 from what im finding. $4500 for a performance one rated to 450HP. I am trying to keep this as affordable as possible with as little downtime as possible. It is my only car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigBADbenny Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 Just get it conservatively tuned for eg 12-15psi, keep the oil topped up etc and plan your reco, replacement or upgrade for when you eg need a tb/major service or eg new clutch. Mine uses oil so I'm rebuilding a spare stock long motor to go in at the 2nd major service. Long term plan is to then reco my original block CD destroker style Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 22, 2016 Share Posted May 22, 2016 Just get it conservatively tuned for eg 12-15psi, keep the oil topped up etc and plan your reco, replacement or upgrade for when you eg need a tb/major service or eg new clutch. Mine uses oil so I'm rebuilding a spare stock long motor to go in at the 2nd major service. Long term plan is to then reco my original block CD destroker style He has a 06 GT wagon, it has a 5eat, so no clutch is needed. But you have a good plan. OP read my click here link to see what I did, I had time to plan what I was going to do. You talk about 450HP engine, why do you think you need that ? your 5eat won't last very long with that. Read the stickys at the top of the Engine rebuild forum in the Tech Forums. Lot's of great info there. After you have read those come back and ask more questions. Let us know more about the engine as mileage, mods, has it always been on the stock MAP, what kind of life its had. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigBADbenny Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 *clutch/diffs/valve body mods etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheKraken Posted May 23, 2016 Author Share Posted May 23, 2016 I bought it in October last year, carfax was clean. So no detailed history before I arrived. I'm not/can't drop money to get it re-tuned to a "lower" threshold. I do not have an access port and the car is bone stock. Only debating about a 450HP rated engine because I'd like to add power down the road as well as the MT swap. As said before, engine is bone stock. I've only added a boost gauge. When I purchased the car, the turbo did fail within a couple days. They replaced the turbo and removed banjo filters at the same time. After a few months I started to hear a concerning knock whenever I'd start the engine. So I've been gentle on it till I was able to get these test done... and here we are. Ill check out rebuild threads, but I am in the unfortunate circumstance that I do not have a garage or a place to rebuild it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 IMO your at the point where the metal chips have damaged the bearings in the engine. That's what happens when the stock turbo goes in must cases. If the oil pan is not dropped and the oil coolant and may be oil pump are not replaced, (they hold metal pieces and release them at a later date) then the engine is on borrowed time. You'll want a new ej257 short block, have the heads rebuilt, get new oil pan, oil pump, oil cooler. You also really don't want to swap in a 5mt into a 5eat car. it's really not that simple with these cars. To my knowledge, no one has gotten all systems to work correctly. Can you get the car to www.AZPinstalls.com in northern NJ. They are the only shop I'd let touch your car, seeing where you are located. Call Mike or Rey and tell them I sent you. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttnio Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 It will take a good chunk of $$$$ to fix it. If you have to drive it, don't get into boost (around 3000-4000 rpm's). Go easy on the gas pedal is what I mean. We dont want to create any knock which will complicate things. Welcome, enjoy and good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheKraken Posted May 24, 2016 Author Share Posted May 24, 2016 IMO your at the point where the metal chips have damaged the bearings in the engine. That's what happens when the stock turbo goes in must cases. If the oil pan is not dropped and the oil coolant and may be oil pump are not replaced, (they hold metal pieces and release them at a later date) then the engine is on borrowed time. You'll want a new ej257 short block, have the heads rebuilt, get new oil pan, oil pump, oil cooler. You also really don't want to swap in a 5mt into a 5eat car. it's really not that simple with these cars. To my knowledge, no one has gotten all systems to work correctly. Can you get the car to www.AZPinstalls.com in northern NJ. They are the only shop I'd let touch your car, seeing where you are located. Call Mike or Rey and tell them I sent you. AZP is whom did the compression/leak down. If i do have the work done at a shop, it will be there. From the sounds of it, i should just go for a full rebuilt long block. What's the easiest way to get a manual into this car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheKraken Posted May 24, 2016 Author Share Posted May 24, 2016 This may also explain a really brief flutter in the oil warning light while in drive, stopped, idling. And yes oil is at level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigBADbenny Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 A cracked oil pickup is a fairly common fault that may cause intermittent oil warning lights. Have you inspected or analysed your oil content? A s/h Tactrix and a safe e tune from eg Torqued Performance might set you back a coupla hungie, and might allow greater safety (wastegate pressure) for limping the car in a fully usable fashion whilst your plan b comes together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheKraken Posted May 24, 2016 Author Share Posted May 24, 2016 Have not gotten an oil analysis done yet, was going to at next change. I am using Amsoil 5W-30. Not going to drop money on a de-tune though. I'll just baby it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alphius Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 Ouch, a flickering oil light and rattle at startup and on throttle mean you most likely have some ruined bearings; almost definitely caused by the previous turbo failure putting metal in the oil which wasn't sufficiently cleaned out. That engine is not long for this world, you need a new shortblock and if you want to salvage the heads and new turbo you need to completely stop driving it ASAP. If you pull the oil dipstick out are there shiny metal bits in the oil? Pumping that oil around your engine by driving the car will score and ruin the heads and cams as well as any other bearing surfaces in the turbo and engine that aren't yet bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheKraken Posted May 24, 2016 Author Share Posted May 24, 2016 No metal on the dipstick. Also had AZP do the oil change so I would imagine they'd look for that sort of thing? My apartment doesn't let me do any work on my car involving fluids, such a PITA. I bought this in October and the turbo was replaced under warranty from the used dealer. Is it possible I have a case to go back to them for a new engine if they didnt properly repair it when the turbo went? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alphius Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 Was it a Subaru dealer? There's a TSB for turbo replacement that requires a Subaru dealer to replace the banjo bolt and drop the oil pan for cleaning with any turbo failure, but that doesn't address the oil cooler which is another repository for metal shavings and can't be disassembled for cleaning. I doubt an independent used car dealer would follow this TSB, but there likely isn't any legal recourse for you on an as-is car sale either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheKraken Posted May 24, 2016 Author Share Posted May 24, 2016 Not a Subaru dealer, just used car dealer. If the TSB wasn't performed, is there any recourse since they sold a "faulty" car? Subaru should have those records stored against the VIN? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alphius Posted May 24, 2016 Share Posted May 24, 2016 The TSB isn't a recall or warranty extension, it's just an informational document (Technical Service Bulletin) for dealers to assist in diagnosing and properly repairing their cars. If a Subaru dealer had done the turbo replacement, they would've charged for the oil pan cleaning and banjo bolt replacement as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheKraken Posted May 24, 2016 Author Share Posted May 24, 2016 Ah gotcha. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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