Whiteline KCA334 Same Anti-Lift as Stock?

[covertrussian]

Do you by any chance have pictures of the forward facing bushing and how it's mounted? That spacer is a good 30-40mm probably. That would probably be a bit too much pro-lift for us Legacy guys.

[Underdog]

I can take a pic in a few hours but it looks just like the LGT. The spacers between the subframe and chassis move the front mounting point down to maintain the static LCA geometry.

[covertrussian]

Ah understood, no worries then!

 

I can see why they switched to having the rear LCA mounted on the subframe for 2010+, easier to just add spacers and it moves everything down. I also wonder if it flexes less since it's all on same subframe vs half on subframe half on body.

[elgin.owens]

I went ahead and ordered the SuperPro TRC3095 to be installed during my massive suspension Overhaul. Planning to order the rest of my suspension stuff today, so it shouldn't be long before I get to installing everything. I'll keep you posted on how it goes!

[Cincy05LGT]

Updates?

[covertrussian]

Took apart my parts Legacy Wagon a little more today and got the to the LCA bolt. Looks like there is plenty of threads for a 10mm anti-lift washer set behind it.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=236964&stc=1&d=1472883242

 

 

Still would love to see how the SuperPro kit looks @elgin.owens.

[elgin.owens]

I still haven't installed my suspension goodies. I desperately need new tires and refuse to buy another set for the stock wheels. I've been waiting to do my suspension upgrades until I get the new wheels & tires, that way I'll only have to pay for one alignment job.

[elgin.owens]

Alright I finally have an update on the SuperPro TRC3095 install. The offset bushings went into the control arms fine, but the there was an issue fitting the spacers under the studs. The LGT studs are too short to use the aluminum spacers, they are only long enough to get one thread into the chassis.

 

I've been checking the Subaru parts catalog looking for an alternate stud that might be longer on the side that screws into the chassis. It looks like the stud P/N 901370010 from the 2011-14 STI & WRX might work. It has threads all the way down the length of the side which goes into the chassis vs the LGT stud P/N 901370009 which is only partially threaded. I've attached a photo of P/N 901370010 from the parts catalog.

[covertrussian]

Just making sure you getting the install order correct, are you installing the spacer between the body and the stud, or stud and the bushing? How big is the spacer? 10mm or 20mm? The stud I pulled out of my legacy wagon has

more then enough threads to use a 10mm spacer.

[elgin.owens]

I'm installing the spacer between the body and the stud, that's correct right? I'd say the spacer is over 20mm, but I'll have to take some measurements next time I'm out in the shop.

[covertrussian]

You got it, between stud and body. If it's 20mm, I can see why it wouldn't work too, so sounds like WRX studs are needed. I think any 08+ should work since the SuperPro kit advertised to work fine with it.

[AutoXCivic]

There is a longer stud that needs to be used for the super pro kit. I didn't install mine myself, but the shop had to go get a longer one. I'm not certain on the part number though.

[covertrussian]

Good find @elgin.owens! I might get those just to be safe even with 10mm spacers.

[Leftcoast_LGT]

Bump

[covertrussian]

I haven't bothered doing this yet, since I'm on stock springs traction is not an issue and I don't want to reduce my anti-dive (byproduct of reducing anti-lift). Reduce anti-dive too much and car will weight shift forward even more under breaking (maybe that's a good thing, since it puts more weight on front tires thus could provide better breaking until the tires give away).

[HeyLoad]

Any updates? Now that it is installed, how did it affect your steering. I am upgrading my bushings front and rear. I really want to know if this is worth the effort.

[elgin.owens]

Not sure i ever confirmed that the install did go smoothly once i got the correct studs. My caster ended up at 6.80/6.85 Deg after installing the bushings at the position for max caster (ref install guide from WL website). The tech who did the alignment said he didn't have to adjust them. I was surprised they came out so even because I just eyeballed their alignment, then used the AVO dies and Harbor Freight press to push them into the control arms.

 

The one thing that I think can be contributed to the KCA334 is a solid on-center feel, meaning there's a noticeable level of resistance when trying to turn the wheels from center. Unfortunately, beyond that, I can't pinpoint exactly how the KCA334 affected the handling/steering. This is due to the large number of upgrades I did all at once, including every WL bushing available, plus their tophats, roll center kit, adjustable rear control arms, 2015 STI steering rack, RCE T1 coilovers, Cusco Sway bars F&R, w/ Moog end links, Super Pro rear subframe bushings, new larger wheels and tires.

 

As you would expect, the combined affect of all these upgrades, is an improvement in handling and steering that is nothing short of amazing. The steering is very smooth and responsive, although it does feel noticeably heavier from the STI rack, I do think the on-center feeling is the result of the KCA334. The car now feels like it's riding on rails, it's got minimal body roll and is very predictable. I haven't been able to really get it to break loose in a corner, but the little bit that of breakaway that I have experienced was very smooth and controllable.

 

I can't wait to get it out on an autocross course to really push it to the limit and beyond!

[HeyLoad]

Wait, I thought you installed the Super Pro TRC3095 kit elgin.owens.

[elgin.owens]

Ah crap, I did use the SuperPro TRC3095! Sorry for the confusion, guses I forgot which kit I used. Everywhere I wrote KCA334, just scratch that and imagine I'd wrote SuperPro TRC3095.

[covertrussian]

Alright have an update about the studs. elgin.owens's post 33 sent me on a wild goose chase and I finally deciphered all of the part numbers.

 

LGT's original stud is 901370005. This one looks like this:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256110&stc=1&d=1506742594

 

Outback's original stud is 901370006, since outback's have an anti-lift spacer stock (24mm long), they use a longer stud with a squared end.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256111&stc=1&d=1506742594

 

Subaru decided to make one stud to superceed both the 901370005 and 901370006, the new part number is 901370009. Here is what the one I just bought looks like, no squared ends that go inside the body:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256112&stc=1&d=1506742594

 

Finally elgin.owens's mentioned 901370010, this is the 2011+ WRX/STI stud. Based on his uploaded picture, it looks to have more threads in the area around the bushing.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=240685&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1479077497

 

 

So there you have it, if you want to safely use an anti-lift spacers on the Legacy, you should get stud part number 901370009, which is Subaru blessed for all 05-09 Legacies/Outbacks. While 901370010 might work, it's not in the blessed list, thus buy at your own risk.

[covertrussian]

Measured the stock anti-lift spacer on the 2006 Outback, it's 24mm long. This could be an upgrade Legacy owners fairly cheap, though it is a lot of anti-lift reduction.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256140&stc=1&d=1506874794

[OBXTyaker]

I've been scoping the kca334 as a replacement on my outback. I had the perrin PSRS and loved the control plus the anti-lift was great. Con was feeling every bump, imperfection in the road. But then they popped out of the control arms after an incident. I was really hoping to hear that the whiteline or avo versions would be better pair for the spec b arms and a bit more forgiving so this may push me along in that direction. And having that increase in caster is a blessing for the OB.

[RustyRuu]

^^^^

damn i'm really bummed to hear that about the perrin PSRS i've been scoping those for MY09 forester and now that i've seen a realistic reveiw (not on there website) i'm not to sure. i have a lot of incidents in that car too. i accidentally jumped it and tore the front bumper off nose diving into the ground. It not being my car have it looking mint again.

 

maybe related or not its time for new LCA bushings. i still need to decide maybe just stockers OEM to get through winter.

[OBXTyaker]

Don't get me wrong Rusty, I think the PSRS is a great upgrade. If you have curvy roads its amazing, totally transforms the front. The additional caster plus a bit of camber really locks everything down. On a track I would imagine it would be amazing. On ramps were a blast. But any place with salt or crap roads like in MA, better get a hockey mouth guard cause you'll feel it and they will immediately start to rust.

 

The other issue I found with the PSRS is that unlike the whiteline it has an open top but a closed lip bottom. So really anything like going up on a curb etc, or in my case an emergency pull over because of 5" exposed manhole covers, those suckers can come right out of the socket with enough pressure. Perrin thought the arms were defective but after going over it with my mechanic, that open top is just bad news for streets. Whiteline does it right with the top and bottom covers. If you do venture down that road, get new arms. The new the better.