Roche Posted April 17, 2016 Share Posted April 17, 2016 I drove 30 miles tonight and when I got home to routinely check the oil, I saw coolant sprayed on the intake. It's leaking on the top passenger side of the radiator from what seems like this hose connection, but it's not loose. Here's the picture I took: http://i64.tinypic.com/16bly7r.jpg Turbo/Throttle Issue I first noticed this when going uphill and it downshifts into the turbo range, the throttle acts like I'm on and off it.. Basically every time it gets to peak boost, the throttle cuts out for a second, then gets back in it and so on which makes for a really choppy hard acceleration. Anything over 3500RPM it just revs up and down in and out of boost. I tested it by doing a hard pull from a stop and in 2nd gear the throttle cut out completely when the boost disappeared for a second making the revs drop, then it quickly got back in and out of boost, revving up and down until I let off. I'm having it towed to Subaru as soon as they can get me in. Does anyone know what could be the culprit before I tell Subaru to have at it? I've looked at all the vacuum lines and everything looks fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 I wonder if the cracked neck on the radiator has sprayed coolant into the intake system ? Have you zip tied all the vacuum hoses, these cars are known to blow them off. To bad you have to take a 11y/o car the dealer, don't you have a repair shop that fix's these cars close to you ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roche Posted April 18, 2016 Author Share Posted April 18, 2016 I wonder if the cracked neck on the radiator has sprayed coolant into the intake system ? Have you zip tied all the vacuum hoses, these cars are known to blow them off. To bad you have to take a 11y/o car the dealer, don't you have a repair shop that fix's these cars close to you ? Unfortunately the closest place I'd take it to is really far away. The boost issue started before the coolant leaked. All hoses are zip tied tight. Every time is gets into boost the throttle or boost cuts out for a second. But I can't see anything physically wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 Just asking when was the last time the spark plugs were replaced ? I gather no CEL ? Have you made sure the connectors are tight on the throttle body ? All electrical connectors are tight ? MAF sensor clean ? Air filter clean ? Can you do a boost leak test ? Just thinking about the free things. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roche Posted April 19, 2016 Author Share Posted April 19, 2016 No CEL. Throttle body and connections are tight. Just cleaned maf sensor and replaced air filter. OEM plugs done 20k ago. Not sure how to do a boost leak test, but I'm hoping that's all it is and not the turbo or motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 Is it just me, or does it look like the radiator bleed plug is missing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGSkiBum Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 I have just found the EXACT same radiator leak in the exact same location. I'm planning on ordering a new radiator if I can't figure out how to stop it. It looks like the timer on radiator integrity on '05s just ran out this week haha. Does anyone who has replaced the radiator know if we have to buy a model marked 45111AG03A, or can I substitute an 02A or 01A on a manual transmission car? Is there anything special I need to know about swapping out a radiator on this car? Good luck with the boost issue OP, I hope it turns out being something simple like Max Capacity is hinting at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roche Posted April 20, 2016 Author Share Posted April 20, 2016 I let it warm up today and the coolant appeared on the entire top of the radiator, where it collected around the black hose and poured off. It's not coming from that hose, it looks to be coming from the entire radiator but it seems unlikely. The PO offered for me to tow it to him so he can tell me whats wrong but that's costly. Hoping someone here (unfortunately) has had the same experience before I do it. http://i65.tinypic.com/izysmx.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGSkiBum Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 I'm seeing coolant pooling in the same places, but judging by the spray pattern on the underside of the intake and the timing cover it seems as if the hose fitting area you mentioned is the only source of the leak. When the car is off it is a slow drip from that fitting area, but the spray on the intake looks like it is a powerful stream when the car is running and warm. I just had my car inspected and the mechanic said that the reservoir was bone dry; I topped it off about a month ago when I noticed it a little low. It must have sprung open in the last week since the weather has heated up down here in NC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGSkiBum Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 Here are photos of mine, including the spray residue: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I3eXa Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 Are those metal tabs gripping or does it look like they are straightening out (hope that makes sense)? May have a big leak where you say it's pooling cause the top of the radiator could be separating from the core Sent from somewhere in Potatoland Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 Put a radiator in it. Your's is shot. $88.00 shipped on ebay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roche Posted April 20, 2016 Author Share Posted April 20, 2016 I3eXa, tabs are gripping. It must be junk, but it's strange because it suddenly happened. The PO is nice enough to help me fix it. I'll post here hopefully this week about what was wrong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooNo2 Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 ya i just replaced mine a few weeks ago. the top of the tank started to leak along the whole top crimp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roche Posted April 20, 2016 Author Share Posted April 20, 2016 I'm seeing coolant pooling in the same places, but judging by the spray pattern on the underside of the intake and the timing cover it seems as if the hose fitting area you mentioned is the only source of the leak. When the car is off it is a slow drip from that fitting area, but the spray on the intake looks like it is a powerful stream when the car is running and warm. I just had my car inspected and the mechanic said that the reservoir was bone dry; I topped it off about a month ago when I noticed it a little low. It must have sprung open in the last week since the weather has heated up down here in NC. Interesting you have the same issue. I think the coolant was sprayed because I was in the highway and the air blew it. I let it run for a while and it just kept filling up in that area around the radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I3eXa Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 ya i just replaced mine a few weeks ago. the top of the tank started to leak along the whole top crimp Bet cha it's this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGSkiBum Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 I found one for $62.75 with the 45111AG03A part number on ebay, I'll let you guys know if it lasts longer than a week haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roche Posted April 23, 2016 Author Share Posted April 23, 2016 Mine is $210 at Oreily's I'm replacing it tomorrow but does anyone know if you're supposed to fill it up and burp it from the turbo area or directly on the radiator? Someone said you have to do it to the one next to the intercooler but it doesn't seem like it matters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I3eXa Posted April 23, 2016 Share Posted April 23, 2016 Mine is $210 at Oreily's I'm replacing it tomorrow but does anyone know if you're supposed to fill it up and burp it from the turbo area or directly on the radiator? Someone said you have to do it to the one next to the intercooler but it doesn't seem like it matters. It will help keep air bubbles out by filling by the turbo and also jacking up the front right wheel (or driving that wheel onto a ramp) Close the front radiator cap and fill from the turbo reservoir and leave uncapped Remove ramp or jack and level car out again Turn the car on and wait for the level to start to overflow, then cap the turbo reservoir Fill overflow tank to full Drive Then AFTER it's cooled, open turbo reservoir and fill till it's full and check that the overflow tank is still at full, if not, add to full level Done Also, I've used radiators.com before with good luck. Think it was an overnight shipping too! $128 for yours with a lifetime warranty. Might wanna check it out unless they are crappy but probably not any worse than a radiator from O'Reilleys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roche Posted April 24, 2016 Author Share Posted April 24, 2016 It will help keep air bubbles out by filling by the turbo and also jacking up the front right wheel (or driving that wheel onto a ramp) Close the front radiator cap and fill from the turbo reservoir and leave uncapped Remove ramp or jack and level car out again Turn the car on and wait for the level to start to overflow, then cap the turbo reservoir Fill overflow tank to full Drive Then AFTER it's cooled, open turbo reservoir and fill till it's full and check that the overflow tank is still at full, if not, add to full level Done Also, I've used radiators.com before with good luck. Think it was an overnight shipping too! $128 for yours with a lifetime warranty. Might wanna check it out unless they are crappy but probably not any worse than a radiator from O'Reilleys Unfortunately I already paid for the radiator. Really wish I searched online earlier in the week so it would be here in time to fix it this weekend. That clears it up well, thanks for the info. Should I still burp it from the turbo reservoir after that process or does that eliminate air getting in altogether? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I3eXa Posted April 24, 2016 Share Posted April 24, 2016 Yep. I would still burp from the turbo res Sent from somewhere in Potatoland Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooNo2 Posted April 24, 2016 Share Posted April 24, 2016 dont forget to turn your heater on when you do this to flush out the heater cores Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip J. Fry Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 mine cracked under the top hose right at the joint. it seeped down to around the top of the crimps giving it that appearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roche Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 Replaced the radiator and all is well with that. Still having some issues with it not making power like it should. If I pass somebody or any time the RPM goes over 3500, it seems like there's a dead spot in the motor every time the boost spools. I passed someone today and revved it to 5500 and didn't get pushed in the seat. Every time it spools up, it seems just like it's quick shifitng and holds the RPM for a second and builds up again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roche Posted April 27, 2016 Author Share Posted April 27, 2016 It was an abnormally cold 34 degrees last night and I noticed a very subtle jet engine noise that was belt driven or turbo related. I let the engine run for a while before driving. Under 2k rpm it sounded like a jet at idle. Over 2k rpm it sounded like a far away jet engine taking off and the sound would rise with the engine speed as long as the belt or turbo speed was increasing. After 20 minutes of driving it stopped. Its 60 degrees today and I didn't hear it at all. I'm wondering if it was normal for when it's cold out and the engine hasn't been running too long. I know my old one didn't do that even below 0 degrees. Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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