fotofan Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 08's don't have the same issue with banjo filters as the 05-06. Wait, really? I put something here like all the cool people, except there's nothing cool to put here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 Yes, there are far less issues with those filters clogging up. Theory is its because 07-09 they are vertical not horizontal. So when you shut off the engine and the oil drains out it self cleans... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdirondackLGT Posted April 18, 2016 Author Share Posted April 18, 2016 The air filter needs to be replaced or cleaned. That missing bolt on the turbo could be an exhaust leak. easy fix. the bracket for the stock heat shield is missing, that missing bolt and the other one hold the bracket. Oil vapor at the bottom of the intake is just normal grit, I wouldn't be to concerned about it. Try to see if the larger orange o-ring are between the plastic intake manifold and the TGV's. The stock black ones tend to leak when it get cold out. 08's don't have the same issue with banjo filters as the 05-06. That's not a stock exhaust out the back of the car. I'll check again, but I believe the intake gasket is black. It gets cold as balls here, I'll probably swap it for the (better) orange revision. The PO said he left the bracket off when he had turbo's swapped, and that's why the bolts missing. I think I'll replace the whole shield/bolt assembly. The exhaust is deletes and what appears to be a Magnaflow resonator. All welded up. I'll get a better shot of the underside when I get it up on the hoist. There's a bunch of easy, low hanging fruit, in terms of maintenance: clean the intake, clean the MAF, add a bolt to the turbo/DP, check your intake mani gasket areas for blowby... and definitely get some sort of heat shield back on that turbo, ASAP. Right now it's just cooking the plastic underside of your TMIC. The air filter is disgusting, and super oily. It will be getting replaced before the car see's any sort of regular road-time. I guess I'll just get one from SPT. Edit: On second thought, I might swap it out w/ a factory air-box. From what I understand, they're a better piece anyways. Yes, there are far less issues with those filters clogging up. Theory is its because 07-09 they are vertical not horizontal. So when you shut off the engine and the oil drains out it self cleans... I think I saw that banjo bolt sort of in front of the turbo, underneath the TMIC. I found one on the pass. side valve cover that I checked as well, and I'm still trying to find the one that is supposed to be on the drivers side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 The PO said he left the bracket off when he had turbo's swapped, and that's why the bolts missing. I think I'll replace the whole shield/bolt assembly. I'd just replace the bolt, and then go with a turbo blanket. For the same $75 it would cost you to get a shield and bracket, a blanket would do the job much better. The air filter is disgusting, and super oily. It will be getting replaced before the car see's any sort of regular road-time. I guess I'll just get one from SPT. Edit: On second thought, I might swap it out w/ a factory air-box. From what I understand, they're a better piece anyways. Stock airbox is a great idea, just make sure (if the car was tuned for the intake) that you flash it back to a map that's appropriate for a stock box. I bet that MAF is fouled from all that oil over time... it's a pricey piece but well worth it to have a new one. Keep the old one as a spare. LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdirondackLGT Posted April 20, 2016 Author Share Posted April 20, 2016 I'd just replace the bolt, and then go with a turbo blanket. For the same $75 it would cost you to get a shield and bracket, a blanket would do the job much better. Stock airbox is a great idea, just make sure (if the car was tuned for the intake) that you flash it back to a map that's appropriate for a stock box. I bet that MAF is fouled from all that oil over time... it's a pricey piece but well worth it to have a new one. Keep the old one as a spare. I'll look into a turbo blanket, I like that idea. PO and Pawloo say the car has lived its life on the stock tune/MAP. I should be able to swap in the stock air box and be good to go. It does give me some concern for exhaust valves tho. From what I understand the stock map lends itself to fuel running lean quite often, and burning up exhaust valves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 When you install a bolt and nut on the turbo, make sure you coat the threads with anti-seize compound. In fact do not install anything on the car with anti-seize on the threads, even lug nuts. It seems people tend to over oil the re-useable air filters. Common error. Your new here so when it comes time for a tune, use http://www.tuningalliance.com don't go anywhere else. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdirondackLGT Posted April 20, 2016 Author Share Posted April 20, 2016 When you install a bolt and nut on the turbo, make sure you coat the threads with anti-seize compound. In fact do not install anything on the car with anti-seize on the threads, even lug nuts. It seems people tend to over oil the re-useable air filters. Common error. Your new here so when it comes time for a tune, use http://www.tuningalliance.com don't go anywhere else. I often use anti-seize where necessary. I do not use it on lug-nuts. While I don't have much experience w/ the workings of a forced-induction system, I have been working on cars at a full-service garage for the better part of 10-yrs. I'm fairly well versed in mechanics. You all like TuningAlliance? Over COBB? Or do they tweak COBB maps? They're not too far from where I picked up the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skrolz Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 What's the wheel and tire setup? Those beefy tires look mean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 I often use anti-seize where necessary. I do not use it on lug-nuts. While I don't have much experience w/ the workings of a forced-induction system, I have been working on cars at a full-service garage for the better part of 10-yrs. I'm fairly well versed in mechanics. You all like TuningAlliance? Over COBB? Or do they tweak COBB maps? They're not too far from where I picked up the car. Both my cars have Cobb AP, because I'm not good with computers. Mike tunes my cars then loads the Map into the car and the Cobb AP. He has even emailed me maps. If your good with a laptop and buy the cable and download romraider he can do e-tunes. But I think investing the time to drive to him for a street tune is well worth it. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidInSeattle Posted April 20, 2016 Share Posted April 20, 2016 I can confirm that Mike at TA will do a custom map that can be emailed to you, uploaded onto your Accessport and from there to your car. TA is in Connecticut and I am in WA State, so it can be done virtually from anywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdirondackLGT Posted April 21, 2016 Author Share Posted April 21, 2016 Okay crew, I talked to the PO last night. He's floating around the boards somewhere. He says the last turbo blew apart in destructive fashion. Lost all power on the highway, etc. He says his Subaru mechanic cleaned all the banjo bolts, etc. Where should I go from here? Definitely planning to pull the turbo and make sure it's good. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grovlet Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 Okay crew, I talked to the PO last night. He's floating around the boards somewhere. He says the last turbo blew apart in destructive fashion. Lost all power on the highway, etc. He says his Subaru mechanic cleaned all the banjo bolts, etc. Where should I go from here? Definitely planning to pull the turbo and make sure it's good. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk Well.... That really is not a good news item - basically #YNANSB# That's what happened to my last turbo - and at this point it appears it took out the heads - but consensus here is that if the turbo explodes - it sends metal shavings into the oil that are picked up and distributed into oil passages all over - leaving you with only one option - a new short block + all oiling parts + turbo at the bare minimum - and in my case heads too.... (In my case my tuner says that I'm #2 in 10 years of dealing with these cars he's seen the heads being effected - so SB is usually a good resolution) Sounds like the last owner did just a turbo - but no oiling parts - and no SB or heads... You may want to rethink this one - or it gets $$$ (ohh and that nice new turbo is also probably already on it's way out due to oil starvation - hence the codes already showing up:soap_box:) Turbo Failure Wiki MrTris Engine Rebuild Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 Okay crew, I talked to the PO last night. He's floating around the boards somewhere. He says the last turbo blew apart in destructive fashion. Lost all power on the highway, etc. He says his Subaru mechanic cleaned all the banjo bolts, etc. Where should I go from here? Definitely planning to pull the turbo and make sure it's good. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk Damn, your going to want to drop the oil pan and check for metal particles. And start saving your money... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdirondackLGT Posted April 21, 2016 Author Share Posted April 21, 2016 So, basically, its inevitable that the motor is going to blow... Even tho it pulls pretty strong as is? Edit: If I pull the pan and it seems clean, still no bueno? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotofan Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 Just cause it runs well doesn't mean there aren't filings tearing up your bearings...but if the pan is clean (highly doubtful) it's probably good to go. Just make sure to check it VERY thoroughly. I put something here like all the cool people, except there's nothing cool to put here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidInSeattle Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 There could also be metal lurking in the oil cooler passages just waiting to enter the engine and screw things up royally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdirondackLGT Posted April 21, 2016 Author Share Posted April 21, 2016 Excellent. Super pumped. Sarcasm... Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asegal17 Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 Just for some input, I'd try and take an oil analysis with Blackstone Labs. Go on their website and order yourself a free kit. The analysis is about $30 and they give you a personalized report with all the info you need to know. Example: it told me my engine was about to spin a bearing and I started saving and contacting warranty immediately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grovlet Posted April 21, 2016 Share Posted April 21, 2016 Just cause it runs well doesn't mean there aren't filings tearing up your bearings...but if the pan is clean (highly doubtful) it's probably good to go. Just make sure to check it VERY thoroughly. Or that a metal shaving hasn't already lodged itself into a oil passage somewhere and will just continue to starve off oil flow, so while it's good now it will eventually fail. Also remember the PO already went though and cleaned out all evidence of previous turbo failure from the oil - so maybe low mileage Oil Change Intervals and doing oil analysis on them will provide continuous detail as to how bad things are getting over time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skrolz Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 What's the wheel and tire setup? Those beefy tires look mean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 So, basically, its inevitable that the motor is going to blow... Even tho it pulls pretty strong as is? Edit: If I pull the pan and it seems clean, still no bueno? Or that a metal shaving hasn't already lodged itself into a oil passage somewhere and will just continue to starve off oil flow, so while it's good now it will eventually fail. Also remember the PO already went though and cleaned out all evidence of previous turbo failure from the oil - so maybe low mileage Oil Change Intervals and doing oil analysis on them will provide continuous detail as to how bad things are getting over time. This ^ is what you should be thinking about doing. You could even use dino oil and a name brand filter to do a couple 1000-1500 mile oil changes. Think about replacing the oil cooler if it doesn't look new. While your under the car by the oil cooler. check out the two ground cables from the heads to the chassis, replace them if they have not been replaced. It will save other issues down the road. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdirondackLGT Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 I think I'm just going to drop the pan, inspect, check the turbo, potentially replace the oil cooler, and drive the thing... New air box, and some small stuff. If she pops, she pops. What am I looking at for a head job? Theoretically, I could do a headjob and turbo and be in the clear, correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotofan Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 Umm, no. If you've got metal filings in your engine you're gonna need a new shortblock, plus get the heads thoroughly cleaned and refreshed. I put something here like all the cool people, except there's nothing cool to put here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 25, 2016 Share Posted April 25, 2016 Yes there are pictures on here of the cam journals after metal what through them. Not pretty. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdirondackLGT Posted April 25, 2016 Author Share Posted April 25, 2016 Starting to think about just putting this thing out on the lawn... I'd really like to drive it tho. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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