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Bilsteins and RCE Blacks on stock wheels


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I understand what you're trying to find out, but the answer isn't straightforward. You don't *need* to do anything until it stops working (and even then, you can probably still ignore it). Do you drive on perfectly smooth roads? Then they'll last longer. Do you drive on the moon? Then they'll wear out more quickly.

 

I mean, there are cars on the road right now that have completely shot suspensions and their owners don't know or don't care. So, when you say "need", what is it, exactly, are you asking for? To me, I interpret it to ask "When will I be unable to tolerate the suspension?" which then leads to GTEASER's previous thoughts on the subject.

 

 

 

Fair enough. The last time I lowered a car the stock struts started leaking within a few hundred miles. But that was a Honda, and no one knew who vin diesel was yet, so maybe things have changed...

 

Maybe this is a better question: can I expect the stock struts to continue functioning at their current capacity with a 1" drop? Or am I on borrowed time before they start leaking and lose any use whatsoever?

 

GTEASER, you wrote somewhere (build thread maybe?) that you initially ran stock struts with new springs. Did you blow them out or simply get sick of the performance?

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GTEASER, you wrote somewhere (build thread maybe?) that you initially ran stock struts with new springs. Did you blow them out or simply get sick of the performance?

 

I installed H&R springs on the stock shocks in the middle of June 2013, the car had 19k miles on it. Granted, the H&Rs are probably the stiffest aftermarket lowering springs available for our cars with a progressive spring rate that ramps up very quickly. I realized within a few days that while the car felt fantastic around town during low speed driving with small suspension movements, it was scary dangerous in high speed situations with dips in the road. Whether carving a corner or going straight down the highway, and believe me, I found new speed in corners, the rear shocks just couldn't keep up on big bumps and waves in the surface, and the whole car would lurch up into the air like a hobby horse. Truly scary! The day that, I swear, the rear tires came off the ground at 80mph due to a dip in the highway, I decided that my schedule to install Konis needed to be moved up to.....immediately. I slowed my driving and a few weeks later in August 2013, the Konis were in, at 21k miles. It was an epiphany! It's now the way that it should have been from the factory, a true sport sedan. In stock form it's a boat at best, that happens to go fast in spurts, because sustained speed in stock form is a horrible experience.

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Emnotek is a forum vendor and the best price around for the Koni's. And super fast (I think free) shipping.

 

Currently Emnotek is having their spring sale. I bought mine in two installments. first the fronts then the rears. I paid $13 each time for shipping. even with shipping included the price was cheaper than any where else i found online selling the KONIs.

 

Also shipping was lightning fast. It only took a couple days from the time i place my order.

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Currently Emnotek is having their spring sale. I bought mine in two installments. first the fronts then the rears. I paid $13 each time for shipping. even with shipping included the price was cheaper than any where else i found online selling the KONIs.

 

Also shipping was lightning fast. It only took a couple days from the time i place my order.

Moddiction is having their spring sale also $150 fronts $131 rears, free shipping

 

Sent from my LG-ls990 using Tapatalk

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Do I need a coupon code? The pricing on the website is 163/152.

I went through the forums vendors classified, and clicked their link, didn't realize it was for a different model... $163 price is correct good sir!

 

Sent from my LG-ls990 using Tapatalk

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I went through the forums vendors classified, and clicked their link, didn't realize it was for a different model... $163 price is correct good sir!

 

Do I need a coupon code? The pricing on the website is 163/152.

 

 

Emnotek costs are front $155.80 & rears $145.35.

 

Making sure you get the best deal possible.

 

 

 

 

I attached my reciepts.

2111217139_emnotekorder-rears.JPG.e359d0d026f77f99c0207b939d1d5681.JPG

701915370_emnotekorder-fronts.JPG.443bb0de15756412f777f45b5db0c601.JPG

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Emnotek costs are front $155.80 & rears $145.35.

 

Making sure you get the best deal possible.

 

 

 

 

I attached my reciepts.

Agreed, I know who I'll be ordering mine from!

 

Sent from my LG-ls990 using Tapatalk

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Just ordered my Koni's from Emnotek today. I recall reading (don't know where) that the Koni's will produce a rake in the front, up to 1/2" depending on what aftermarket springs are used.

 

 

Does this sound right? If so, I'm ready to order the 3/8" subtle solutions nose dive spacers as I want an even drop.

 

 

Looking at tackling this project next weekend...

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Just ordered my Koni's from Emnotek today. I recall reading (don't know where) that the Koni's will produce a rake in the front, up to 1/2" depending on what aftermarket springs are used.

 

 

Does this sound right? If so, I'm ready to order the 3/8" subtle solutions nose dive spacers as I want an even drop.

 

 

Looking at tackling this project next weekend...

 

You only need to worry about the additional 1/2" drop if you are using Swift lowering springs, which is not recommended for pairing with Koni's. All other lowering springs for the 5th Gen will produce the advertised drop, or unchanged ride height when stock springs are used, when paired with Koni's.

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anyone have a spare M12 x 25mm x 1.5 TP bolt? I stripped the internal hex on one of mine. I would the hex head bolts at my local hardware store, but they are not grade8.

 

I contacted KONI and the part number is 71 50 07 005 0 cost is $7.37/ea.

 

I would recommend getting bolts in the following lengths 100mm, 60mm, 40mm, 25mm. You may only use it once but you won't have to delay your strut insert install because of stripped parts.

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anyone have a spare M12 x 25mm x 1.5 TP bolt? I stripped the internal hex on one of mine. I would the hex head bolts at my local hardware store, but they are not grade8.

 

I contacted KONI and the part number is 71 50 07 005 0 cost is $7.37/ea.

 

I would recommend getting bolts in the following lengths 100mm, 60mm, 40mm, 25mm. You may only use it once but you won't have to delay your strut insert install because of stripped parts.

 

Didn't I say to get some bolts to suck the insert into the housing and only use the supplied Koni allen head bolt for final torquing? :confused:

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Post 21 in this thread. :cool:

 

Here are some helpful hints:

 

 

Get some hardened bolts from the hardware store in the same size and thread pitch as the one used by Koni to secure the insert into the donor. You need it to be 10mm-20mm longer than the one supplied. Use this to SUCK the Koni into the tube. You may need some large washers also to space it during the sucking process so it doesn't bottom out in the bottom of the insert. Only use the Allen Head bolt supplied by Koni for the final torquing, to 55 ft/lbs, and use Blue LocTite. The head of that bolt rounds out easily, so try not to damage it.

 

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Didn't I say to get some bolts to suck the insert into the housing and only use the supplied Koni allen head bolt for final torquing? :confused:

 

yes you did...i got a all the longer sizes. but when it came down to that last little bit i didnt have a 25mm bolt. so I used the supplied one. now it's stripped.:mad:

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Stack of washers.

 

If it makes you feel any better, I have stripped one or two as well. But somehow I got my replacements free from Koni, but alas, I do not have any more that I can mail you.

 

I acctually used a spare 1/2" 19mm socket instead of the washers. I thought about getting a bit of conduit put two fender washers on either end and use that too. But my hardware store only sold the conduit in 9' sections.

 

I will call KONI tomorrow to order a couple sets. you know...just in case..

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  • 2 weeks later...

So after reading through this thread it seems like if I'm in the market of replacing my struts on my 3.6r and don't want to have any drop in ride height, then the Koni's with stock springs?

 

If I ordered through Underdog then I'm assuming I'd want to go with using 2013-14 Donor struts and new stock springs (not needed but just because)?

 

Living in Philly has me very concerned with dropping the car any more than it is stock since the streets are terrible so I want to make sure I go about this correctly.

 

Thanks!

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Any 2010-2014 front struts will work for donors, you can use your old ones, no reason for new since you are cutting them open and gutting them. However, you will benefit from 2013-2014 OEM springs all the way around.
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So after reading through this thread it seems like if I'm in the market of replacing my struts on my 3.6r and don't want to have any drop in ride height, then the Koni's with stock springs?

 

If I ordered through Underdog then I'm assuming I'd want to go with using 2013-14 Donor struts and new stock springs (not needed but just because)?

 

Living in Philly has me very concerned with dropping the car any more than it is stock since the streets are terrible so I want to make sure I go about this correctly.

 

Thanks!

 

Underdog used to be a vendor, but it appears he no longer is. I know he had some stuff come up a while back, so you'll need to double-check to see if he's still in the business of selling performance parts.

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