Doing TGV DIY, what else?

[sketron1]

I'll be pulling the TGVs out since I've got the intake manifold removed. I'm wondering what else I should do while everything is apart. This is a 120k well-maintained LGT. Here's what else I've already planned on doing:

• Replace turbo intake w/ Perrin
  
• Install EBCS
  
• Replace vacuum lines, BOV hose w/ silicone
  
• Replace plastic T w/ metal barbed T
  
• Pull and clean injectors
  

 

And a few things I've already taken care of previously:

• Removed screen from turbo oil line
  
• UP, DP, BOV
  

 

Is there anything else I can do I'm not thinking of, either from a performance or preventative maintenance standpoint, while it's apart?

[whitrzac]

Remove the T completely from the system. BOV goes to manifold. plastic evap solenoid gets removed and replaced with a length of hose.

 

Replace old rubber hoses with new, bulk hose is ~$1/foot at most auto parts stores.

 

Leave the bolts holding the fuel lines to the intake manifold off.

 

replace PCV valves

[Max Capacity]

Tighten the gas line clamps under the intake manifold.

 

Make sure you get the larger orange o-ring for the intake to TGV's. Replace the TGV;' to head gaskets/seals too.

[acumenhokie]

Phenolic Spacer

 

Here's one but there are many companies that have them.

 

http://www.grimmspeed.com/phenolic-thermal-manifold-spacer-wrx-sti-lgt-fxt-8mm/

[Code]

Check/clean oil-control valves.

 

Have spare injector o-rings on standby.

[oODanKNesSOo]

Not to thread Jack- but nearly all the feedback I've gotten about a BOV is that they are a waste of money and possibly do more harm then good.. can you tell me which bov you went with and how it's performing?

[acumenhokie]

Not to thread Jack- but nearly all the feedback I've gotten about a BOV is that they are a waste of money and possibly do more harm then good.. can you tell me which bov you went with and how it's performing?

 

BOV is fine if you're tuned speed density rather than MAF. It's possibly harmful when you're releasing and not recirculating metered air which is why most people recommend a BPV.

 

I have the Synapse unit, lots of others are using Turbosmart.

[whitrzac]

Because running rich when shifting is a great way to cause damage...

 

 

Most "bovs" for subaru's are a 50/50 style anyway.

[acumenhokie]

Most "bovs" for subaru's are a 50/50 style anyway.

 

 

But not all

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=210379&d=1433818778

[sketron1]

Replace turbo intake w/ Perrin

Install EBCS

Replace vacuum lines, BOV hose w/ silicone

Pull and clean injectors

 

And a few things I've already taken care of previously:

Removed screen from turbo oil line

UP, DP, BOV

 

I'm adding the following to the list based on suggestions:

• All hoses (PVC, heater, etc.) also replaced while I'm in there
  
• New gaskets for Intake Man and TGV to head.
  
• Clean OCVs
  
• New Injector Orings + a spare or two
  

 

I'm going to pass on the spacer as I don't see a significant improvement to be had (educated opinion only).

 

I'm also all about getting rid of the rat's nest of hoses under the manifold. So you just replace the purge solenoid with hose and it pulls vacuum from the tank constantly? Any check valves or similar needed? Also what's typical, 1) leaving the solenoid plugged in but not in the vacuum system, or 2) removing it entirely and removing the check engine light code.

 

Another random question, there seems to be a couple of coolant lines running to the intake manifold and/or throttle body (can't rem...). Anybody rerouting these lines to get a cooler intake charge? I wonder if these are solely for startup, to atomize fuel during all operation, or some combo of the two.

 

As for the BOV, I'll be running near 100% Recirc with my GFB one.

[Code]

No! You still need your PCV!

[sketron1]

Will include PCV along with all the hoses. Just finished the TGV deletes, waiting on a gasket or two.

[whitrzac]

Replace turbo intake w/ Perrin

Install EBCS

Replace vacuum lines, BOV hose w/ silicone

Pull and clean injectors

 

And a few things I've already taken care of previously:

Removed screen from turbo oil line

UP, DP, BOV

 

I'm adding the following to the list based on suggestions:

• All hoses (PVC, heater, etc.) also replaced while I'm in there
  
• New gaskets for Intake Man and TGV to head.
  
• Clean OCVs
  
• New Injector Orings + a spare or two
  

 

I'm going to pass on the spacer as I don't see a significant improvement to be had (educated opinion only).

I'm also all about getting rid of the rat's nest of hoses under the manifold. So you just replace the purge solenoid with hose and it pulls vacuum from the tank constantly? Any check valves or similar needed? Also what's typical, 1) leaving the solenoid plugged in but not in the vacuum system, or 2) removing it entirely and removing the check engine light code.

Another random question, there seems to be a couple of coolant lines running to the intake manifold and/or throttle body (can't rem...). Anybody rerouting these lines to get a cooler intake charge? I wonder if these are solely for startup, to atomize fuel during all operation, or some combo of the two.

 

As for the BOV, I'll be running near 100% Recirc with my GFB one.

 

 

Remove blue T

BOV goes to manifold.

Remove passive solenoid, the white/black thing that costs $40 and breaks.

evap goes to the intake.

 

 

That is how JDM cars are setup.

[whitrzac]

The coolent lines going to the TB are to keep it from freezing when it's cold out.

 

You haven't lived until you've had a car stick WOT when it's -15 out.

[sketron1]

Houston car so... it'll never see less than 30F. Anybody else think of a reason not to do the coolant line delete while it's taken apart?

 

Side question, should I be thinking of replacing my OEM TMIC (Bulletproofed) while on an OEM turbo maxed out?

 

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[whitrzac]

I wouldn't. You will see no performance gains from it, there is a very real possibility of the throttle freezing if it's run in cold weather.

[sketron1]

Okay, no coolant line deletes. I've got the turbo, up, dp, and exhaust removed now. What's the poor man's upgrade from a stock vf40 using same up/dp/IC setup? Also open to fueling upgrades depending on total cost

 

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[whitrzac]

(vf52 or kamak/kinugawa 16/18/20g(sold under many different names), or JMP something

 

You won't see much benefit without fuel upgrades. IRRC I was hitting 95% IDC on the stock vf40/injectors.

 

Injectors($200+)+dw65 fuel pump($120)+ new in take fuel filter($80).

 

I saw an increase of power at stg2 with an intake(KN). The turbo would hit a higher peak boost as well. Enough to give me an overboost code going from stock to KN.(after maf scaling was corrected)

 

cataback does nothing

 

A good ELH will be better at everything, but will not sound like a 'subaru' anymore.

 

up pipe, I had the flex section in an oem catless one fail.

 

Wrap manifold, up, down(to first bend) with DEI titanium.

turbo blanket for turbo

 

AVO turbo inlet to replace stock, no power, but doesn't fail.

 

Try to find a avo TMIC, not perrin/torque solutions.

[NSFW]

If you've ever wanted to install and air/oil separator or a catch can, now is a good time.

 

Especially if you want to delete the PCV valve while you're at it, and just run all three vent ports (both heads plus the case port) into the separator. Opinions differ one whether that's a good idea, but I think it's a good idea when using an AOS. Otherwise you're probably just bypassing the AOS and sucking vent fumes directly into the manifold when you're in vacuum, which (for a daily driver) is probably most of the time.

[sketron1]

Okay, disassembled the turbo to rebuild. Everything is in great shape, which is awesome for 120k miles. What mod or hybrid options are there for a vf40 in good shape. I'll be doing fuel upgrades and an intercooler if I go this route

 

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[sketron1]

Also the AOS will be a given

 

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[Flinkly]

Remove blue T

BOV goes to manifold.

Remove passive solenoid, the white/black thing that costs $40 and breaks.

evap goes to the intake.

 

 

That is how JDM cars are setup.

 

intrigued. is there any diagrams or other "literature" on this?

 

 

 

 

 

Also, for the OP, a lot of your questions have incredibly suggestive answers.

 

All this input is assuming you're planning stage 2 levels:

 

- JMP is the dude to talk to if you want a rebuilt, uprated VF40/46.

 

- while i'd suggest the stock inlet otherwise, with the manifold off you can go silicone aftermarket with only a negative effect to your wallet. not sure it's worth it vs. a cheaper new OEM inlet.

 

- while you don't need a new pump for power, might be a good idea to replace with a DW65c as preventative maintenance, and the filter too (or at least the filter).

 

- i'd say no to an AOS. all day long. mostly for low stage DD. but everyone has opinions.

 

- I'd go with a BP OEM TMIC and stock BPV until either fails, which isn't till 18+ psi normally. and would stay BPV and TMIC.

 

- i'd NOT do anything with your intake. you can flow "easier" and get wooshy noises, but not cost effective and all intake changes (even fancy filters) need re-tune.

 

- i'd actually get new OCVs, but that's just me. cheap from Arabia...

 

... i've got more opinions, but i'm getting too lazy to continue

[sketron1]

I'm liking some of your opinions Flinkly.

 

Sorry yes, decided to settle on reusing up, dp, gfb bov, bp TMIC. Looking for a deep, rumbly cat back now. Since this will be a DD St2, I'm going without pcv system or AOS. Going to wait on the fuel pump, no easier to do it now than later.

 

For OCVs, does the electrical or mechanical portion typically fail? I've had this code once or twice on my Tribeca

 

Also already have the inlet. Stock would have done just as well. Also got a molded silicone bov to inlet pipe (both red), those will be my bling. [emoji184]

 

Also forgot to mention, I've been on a Cryotune Stg2 map for 6 months probably. Will be retuning once everything is together.

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[Flinkly]

I'm liking some of your opinions Flinkly.

 

Sorry yes, decided to settle on reusing up, dp, gfb bov, bp TMIC. Looking for a deep, rumbly cat back now. Since this will be a DD St2, I'm going without pcv system or AOS. Going to wait on the fuel pump, no easier to do it now than later.

 

For OCVs, does the electrical or mechanical portion typically fail? I've had this code once or twice on my Tribeca

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

i don't know on the OCV faiure question. it's a unit (don't think you can really replace one over the other, or at least as far as i know). I assumed it was general oil gunk buildup, random particulate or wear over time (so mechanical failure).

 

if you have a way of seeing the engine parameters (vagcom or tactrix), you can watch both ACVS angles and see if they stay within a few degree's of one another. i seem to have one that falls behind a little vs the other. could be a slightly clogged banjo filter though, vs. a bad OCV, but i got 2 new OCVs for ~$110, so why not!

 

yeah, as far as my opinions, tend to get things that "need" to happen (preventative maintenance - fuel filter replacement) or things with good bang for the buck (NOT an intake/exhaust for a sub 300hp car).

 

i also like usable power, so no large diameter exhaust parts, porting, or giant turbos (they cost too much anyways ). ceramic coated parts is generally a waste, unless you just want to keep a part from rusting for a little longer. but rattlecan can do that.

 

 

overall, it all depends on what you want and do with your car.

 

 

anyways...

[whitrzac]

intrigued. is there any diagrams or other "literature" on this?

 

 

 

 

 

I haven't drawn anything up yet.