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OEM parts for accident?


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See accident thread:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/rear-ended-dont-want-drain-battery-248766.html

 

Is my car still new enough that they would be using OEM parts because they don't make aftermarket parts for what was damaged?

 

I brought it to a place I want to get it fixed at. They were going to do an estimate and said the insurance company adjuster of the person who rear ended me (I ran it through their insurance) has to look at it first and they will go by that quote. They said there's no point on them doing an estimate. I've never heard of this. At first the insurance company said this was one of their authorized shops but now I'm not sure if it is or not. I still want to use the shop because they are good. Should I tell the shop or their adjuster they need to use OEM parts?

 

Anyone know how much in diminished value I could potentially get, or if it's worth the fight? Car will be worth less if I go to trade it in whenever. I have 73k miles though.

 

I really miss my Subaru. I have a POS Chevy Sonic rental.

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See accident thread:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/rear-ended-dont-want-drain-battery-248766.html

 

Is my car still new enough that they would be using OEM parts because they don't make aftermarket parts for what was damaged?

 

I brought it to a place I want to get it fixed at. They were going to do an estimate and said the insurance company adjuster of the person who rear ended me (I ran it through their insurance) has to look at it first and they will go by that quote. They said there's no point on them doing an estimate. I've never heard of this. At first the insurance company said this was one of their authorized shops but now I'm not sure if it is or not. I still want to use the shop because they are good. Should I tell the shop or their adjuster they need to use OEM parts?

 

Anyone know how much in diminished value I could potentially get, or if it's worth the fight? Car will be worth less if I go to trade it in whenever. I have 73k miles though.

 

I really miss my Subaru. I have a POS Chevy Sonic rental.

Manufacturers are required to make oem collision parts for 10 years, so if they tell you there are none available, find a better shop. I was told exactly that by the adjustor who went over my wife's 2007 Tribeca, I went to two other shops the first had to get back with me to find out if they could get the parts, the second made a phone call and had the parts within 3 days. With subaru stamping and all. So we went with them.

 

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In florida at least the shops are required to tell you if they use aftermarket or used parts and the reason why. But, I believe they are required to use oem parts when available. It seems you are being diligent. As for the diminished value, you should talk with a car dealer and get an idea of the impact it will have on value. And maybe get a lawyer.

 

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Is my car still new enough that they would be using OEM parts because they don't make aftermarket parts for what was damaged?
Negative. They will push to use aftermarket parts where they can - for most insurance companies, the "new" window is only something like 6 months... you need to do some homework here - check with the body shop and see what they do - I know for the one I use, they generally get the local dealerships to match prices and use OEM whenever they can - you can also talk to them about providing parts (often times the retail for aftermarket is about what you can get the parts online for)

I brought it to a place I want to get it fixed at. They were going to do an estimate and said the insurance company adjuster of the person who rear ended me (I ran it through their insurance) has to look at it first and they will go by that quote. They said there's no point on them doing an estimate. I've never heard of this. At first the insurance company said this was one of their authorized shops but now I'm not sure if it is or not.
This also varies by insurance company. For companies such as Farmers, if they have an authorized shop, they have trained the adjusters there what their policies are and the approves shop is able to write the estimate - this includes when additional damage is found as they dig into the car - really streamlines the repair process. That being said - if the shop you want to use isn't approved, and they do good work (which is why you chose them), I'd keep it there and take the hit on time - the other persons insurance should be paying for a rental for you, and a couple of weeks up front is well worth it if it means the repair will be done right, rather than half-assed.

 

I still want to use the shop because they are good. Should I tell the shop or their adjuster they need to use OEM parts?
communication is key - you need to make sure everything is straightened out before they order parts. Even if you have to kick in an extra $50-100 to make sure you get what you want (which is unlikely), I'd do it.

Anyone know how much in diminished value I could potentially get, or if it's worth the fight? Car will be worth less if I go to trade it in whenever. I have 73k miles though.
this really varies state to state. If you want to get an idea as to the difference in value, maybe go talk to carmax or something like that. Have you asked the other company for diminished value yet? Having a good idea how much it actually has diminished the value is important - if the value is going down 500 or something like that, presenting them (the insurance company) with what you want and why will help your case. Otherwise you might have to lawyer-up, which depending on the value, might not be worth it. (the car is probably worth $10-12k, so I don't think a minor accident is going to swing the value a whole heck of a lot)

I really miss my Subaru. I have a POS Chevy Sonic rental.
whatever you do, do not turn in the rental until after you are satisfied the repairs have been done right - always inspect, then when you are ok with the repair, turn it in. It's a whole lot easier for you to have the body shop address any issues now, rather than after you get the car home, notice they missed something, and have to bring it back.
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To confirm what your body shop had said, it has been my experience that the body shop will simply charge what the insurance pays out. The only exception is preexisting damage (which the at-fault party's insurance naturally will not cover).

 

So, the behaviour of that shop isn't doing anything out of the ordinary. You're not paying for the work, the other guy's insurance is. The shop will either accept or negotiate the price with the insurance adjuster, and you pay nothing. So, what purpose does an estimate do for you?

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The other guy is at fault, so getting the car back the way it was doesn't involve cheap Chinese parts. Since your accident happened only a week ago, you might want to ask his insurance company about the best type of doctor to see regarding neck and back pain. I'll bet the fix your car with OEM parts and close your case very quickly.
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unfortunately, who is at fault doesn't impact how the repair is done a whole lot. You're going to need to push for OEM if you want it (when you get the estimate, it will clearly indicate which parts are OEM and which are not). Some aftermarket parts (like bumper covers) can be really high quality, so it might be ok - this is where the body shop comes in - they know what works and what doesn't - make it very, very clear that you will not accept a poorly fitting part if they are going aftermarket - make a big stink about them having to do a test fit, etc. with any non-oem part - that way if they use it, and you look and it doesn't fit right, they can't fall back on the "well, it's not an OEM part and they sometimes don't fit perfectly" excuse (which is not something you should accept)

 

We've gone round and round with the shop (which we no longer use...) when they used non-OEM parts that didn't fit right for my wifes van - eventually they used OEM but it was a pain in the ass to get them to come around. (part of the problem was my wife brought it in, etc. - and they have basically zippo respect for women, apparently... I hate BS like that - just do your damn job right!)

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How far in is the frame away from where the damage is?

 

If there is no frame damage and they want to total it, what can I say so they don't? I'd imagine it's going to be close if hey consider the vehicle worth 12k, then 75% of that is $9000 worth of damage.

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There isn't a whole lot you can say - just try to negotiate the payout as high as you can. It's not as simple as 75% - if salvage value is in the neighborhood of $6k, they'll total at $6k or so, assuming there will be more damage as they start taking the car apart - if salvage is closer to $3k, then around $9k... (I have no idea what salvage value would be, but the engine/transmission, all the airbags, the interior, etc. are fine on the car, so it could be high) They want to pay as little as possible out - so if the cost to total the car minus the salvage value is cheaper than the cost to repair the car, they will total it out as it costs them less.

 

With my last car, when it got hit, it was totaled and the repair estimate was about 50% of their estimated value, but it was a WRX, and I think salvage is high on those...

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If you are concerned with getting a fair estimate for the work on your vehicle, or if the Insurance company decides to total the car and you aren't getting a fair replacement value I would at least consult a reputable attorney. It shouldn't cost you anything for a consultation, or maybe your employer has a legal service available to you for no charge. Every state handles insurance a bit differently, I can tell you by Florida law you are entitled to replacement value of your vehicle not book value, and many people are not patient enough to go through the process of getting that so they take a loss.
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How far in is the frame away from where the damage is?

 

If there is no frame damage and they want to total it, what can I say so they don't? I'd imagine it's going to be close if hey consider the vehicle worth 12k, then 75% of that is $9000 worth of damage.

 

The Legacy uses a unibody frame, so the essentially shell itself makes the frame of the vehicle. You would be concerned if the suspension mounting or body parts don't line up from being bent. My insurance policy states they will use OEM parts for the 1st year and after that aftermarket parts if they are available.

 

The % that a vehicle depends on the insurance company. Some will total a vehicle total vehicle @ 60% others with be 75-80%. Often you can argue the price of the vehicle if you feel that it is low. Especially if you think your Legacy will be totaled, I would want my insurance company involved. The value assigned to your vehicle doesn't affect them, they will be passing that bill to the other insurance company.

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They told me everything will be OEM except the bumper cover and tail light. They said if those look like crap, then they can go OEM. Is that OK?

 

They also said I get a four wheel alignment. Not sure why as they said nothing hit the wheels.

 

Adjuster said it will be about $7k worth of damage. Maybe more if they find more. Then they fill out a supplemental report. He said they didn't put it on a lift and only went by how it looks.

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There doesn't seem to be anything out of the ordinary there. The adjusters can only estimate based on what they can see as-is. If the body shop discovers more damage when they start disassembling things, they'll bring the adjuster in so they can write another check to cover the newly discovered damage.

 

The bumper/taillight is going to have to be your call. Perhaps ask if those parts carry any warranties from the manufacturer? I would be a bit peeved if an aftermarket taillight housing had some bad wiring in it. But if it looks ok and works as it should, *shrugs*

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Using aftermarket or reconditioned bumpers is pretty standard in the auto body industry, I wouldn't worry about that. In my case, they uses a reconditioned OEM bumper and looking at the back side, I can't find anything significantly wrong with it. Using the aftermarket replacement lights is pretty standard as well as the OEM ones are very very expensive typically.
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The guy called me back and said the tail lights will be a used OEM one instead of new after market. Your thoughts?

 

At this point, what are your thoughts? It's your car. There's only so much hand-holding that we can do, and making the determination to have the shop install used parts is going to vary quite a bit from person to person.

 

If the lights look good and work well after they're installed, how do you feel about it?

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Understandable, but most salvage yards won't sell junk to insurance repair shops. A shop would have to request a crappy part to get one. Subpar parts usually don't even make it off the vehicle.

 

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There is a salvage yard condition rating system, A thru D, that is pretty strictly adhered to. Body shops get the A parts which are usually "as new". If they decided to get B or C parts it would be on them to recondition them properly.
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We'll see how it goes. As long as I get the car back and can't tell anything happened, then I'll be fine. I guess I'd have to go for diminished value since if I trade it in (I want adaptive cruise control in my next Subaru), I'd lose money. I imagine if I were buying a car and the person told me the car was in an accident and had $500 worth of damage, or the car was in an accident and had $7000 worth of damage, that I'd walk away from the latter.
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Diminished value is difficult to claim. And technically, as long as the car was repaired correctly, regardless of how much it costs, it doesn't diminish the value because it is incumbent on the insurance companies and body shops to return the car to original condition. You may perceive that there is diminished value because of what you know happened to the car, but that doesn't mean it exists. Diminished value can only be successfully claimed if the car was not returned to the same or better condition it was in prior to the accident.

 

I went thru this when my car was rearended to the tune of $9900. I spoke with a lawyer and everything. The car looked flawless after the repair. I have had zero issues and I can't tell that it was ever repaired. If it was repaired and it crab walked down the road due to a bent frame that was not repaired correctly, then I could see a diminished value claim, but otherwise, its pointless to try. If I sold the car today, I am honestly not worried that the $9900 of repairs that were made maintained the condition of the car and essentially indistinguishable from the way it came off the factory assembly line.

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