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Has anyone successfully installed SS Lines?


edmundu

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I have been on a 2 month long journey to get ss lines properly installed on my LGT!

 

First I ordered the TechnaFit lines, and you all know what a fiasco that was/is.

 

So I ponied up the big $$$'s and ordered the Cobb lines, which are made for them by Stoptech. Well they too have fitment issues. Mainly, there fittings do not fit into the factory brackets, thereby not allowing secure retention via the clip. This is only in regards to the rear lines, as I was able to install the fronts without issue.

 

I'm so aggravated right now, that these vendors/manufacturers put out parts that DO NOT FIT! What's up with that?

 

So I'm asking if any of you guys have been able to install SS lines, without any issues? I mean everything fits as OEM, clips in place, correct length & bends, fittings.

 

 

Update:

 

Just got off the phone with Parker @Cobb, and after sending my rear lines to him, he says that they seem to be the correct lines for the car!:rolleyes: Also mentioned that they have never had anyone complain about fitment, to which I added, well talk to some of the people here as I did, and they will tell you a different story! Maybe they didn't notify Cobb, but somehow I doubt it!

 

Anyhow, apparently since I purchased them from Subaru of Dallas, I need to send them there? So now Cobb is sending me the lines back, so that I can send them to SOD, who will then just turnaround and send them back to Cobb for a credit anyways!!! This is just pure stupidity!

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I have the Goodridge brakelines, same thing rear clip won't fit so we just used the stock clips and it worked fine

 

 

Cobb didn't supply any clips, so I was using the factory supplied clips, and they did not work.

 

So if you use the OEM clips on the Goodridge lines, they properly secure the fitting to the brackets?

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Lines make a more notable improvement than you think. The combination of the stock rubber lines and the stock pads make a pretty good system mediocre.

 

Not until a few days ago did i realize how bad the stock pads are.

 

The coefficent of friction of a dry block of wood on cast iron is 0.2-0.6 our stock pads are 0.3. :o

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I had Cobb's installed and my mechanic had to drill out the rear mount to fit them properly. No clips either....a shame, because I purposely spent more on Cobb stuff figuring there would be no issues since they are Subaru focused. Guess they reused a design from another car and made adjustments only for the rear two-piece lines.
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I had Cobb's installed and my mechanic had to drill out the rear mount to fit them properly. No clips either....a shame, because I purposely spent more on Cobb stuff figuring there would be no issues since they are Subaru focused. Guess they reused a design from another car and made adjustments only for the rear two-piece lines.

 

 

Exactly why I paid the highest price going, except for STI lines! I too thought that they would fit like a glove, boy was I wrong!

 

BTW, what did you r mechanic use to scure them? Did he just drill out the bracket, until the fitting seated in far enough to place the clip over the groove?

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I installed the GoodRidge lines on my car...i used the OEM Clips in conjunction with the Goodridge supplied ones...Snug as a bug in a rug all around...

 

(i used the Goodridge clips inbetween the OEM clip and Bracket...if that helps)

~Sucka-Duck~
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BTW, what did you r mechanic use to scure them? Did he just drill out the bracket, until the fitting seated in far enough to place the clip over the groove?

 

zip ties for awhile, then he drilled them out until the clips held securely. Sorry, but not including new clips is a fatal error here.

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I've got the Goodrige lines, but couldn't get the factory fittings loose (it was late, and I had already spent the day installing UP/DP/AP/iON springs/AVO endlinks/Bobcat pads, so I gave up...).

 

Anyone have any advice on getting the overtorqued factory fittings undone??

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Hit them with Pb Blaster and then let them soak for like 30 min. On mine and another member's car the fittings had that undercoating all over the threads, which doesn't help out either.

 

They are still going to be tight, but like RobY mentioned you need the flare nut wrench, and try to apply the torque as quickly as you can, simulating an impact wrench, as those brass fittings tend to be soft. When you apply steady pressure they usually will then start to strip under the constant slow pressure. It'll make that pop sound once you break them free, so don't be alarmed!

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also...since you wont be using the rubber lines anymore...use a pair of vice grips on the smooth metal end of the OEM lines to give you more leverage...that coupled with the flare nut wrench on the fitting will make the install a breeze...

 

i spent a some time on one line and F'd up one of the brass fittings...soon realized not gonna use the OEM lines anymore and install was a simple!..

~Sucka-Duck~
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I was using a flare nut wrench, and PB blaster (but didn't wait 30 min). +1 on the undercoating.

 

There is a flat for a 17mm wrench on the round part that goes through the body bracket, but I just couldn't get enough leverage to break them loose. I'll get the car a little higher next time, and maybe use some pipe over the wrenches...

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