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Timing belt came off cam while driving


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My shop said it would be better to have the car moved to an engine or performance shop to swap or rebuild the engine.

 

So I am waiting on a call back from Kozmic Motorsports in Houston.

 

The Nissan performance shop I use also worked on Subaru, but now send all their work to this place. So I would trust them on that referral.

 

http://www.kozmicmotorsports.com/

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car-part.com is your friend. Here are 4 within 20 miles of zip 77018

 

Engine

Subaru Legacy 2.5L (VIN 6, 6th digit), SOHC, AT,2.5L-0MI DC203708 Bill Dee's Auto Salvage USA-TX(Houston) Request_Quote 713-694-9696 Request_Insurance_Quote

 

2008

Engine

Subaru Legacy 418108 $Call Almeda Auto Parts USA-TX(Houston) E-mail 877-212-3366 / 713-433-3636 16

 

2008

Engine

Subaru Legacy WHITE,7-07,2.5,AUTO 012776 A Plus Auto Parts USA-TX(Pasadena) E-mail 1-866-278-7055 / 1-713-477-1000 18

 

2008

Engine

Subaru Legacy Outback 12-07,2.5L,AT,AWD,-308,CK306 74,420 18604 $2500 Manuel's Used Auto Parts USA-TX(Pasadena) E-mail 1-800-435-5748

 

That said, it's generally just the valves that sustain damage following a timing belt failure. Very routine job to for a machine shop to replace the valves in the ones you've got. Pop the heads off, inspect the slugs, if OK have the valves replaced and carry on my wayward son.

 

Upside: headgaskets will be replaced. . . which probably needed to happen anyway.

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car-part.com is your friend. Here are 4 within 20 miles of zip 77018

 

 

 

That said, it's generally just the valves that sustain damage following a timing belt failure. Very routine job to for a machine shop to replace the valves in the ones you've got. Pop the heads off, inspect the slugs, if OK have the valves replaced and carry on my wayward son.

 

Upside: headgaskets will be replaced. . . which probably needed to happen anyway.

 

 

Thanks, I called on a few of those. One was sold and the other one they wanted 2200 which was kind of high for a salvage engine. They couldn't tell me how many miles were on it either. But I'm keeping a lookout for those. I'm hoping the Subaru specialty shop can just fix what's broken because they build engines all day long.

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Thanks, I called on a few of those. One was sold and the other one they wanted 2200 which was kind of high for a salvage engine. They couldn't tell me how many miles were on it either. But I'm keeping a lookout for those. I'm hoping the Subaru specialty shop can just fix what's broken because they build engines all day long.

 

search by price. I often find the best prices on stuff like that aren't always the closest yards.

 

Needed an engine for a '13 Impreza (FB20), most yards were in the $2-3k range, found one in Ohio for $1300 + 200 freight with 1,300 miles on it.

 

Shop around, make calls. Deals are out there.

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search by price. I often find the best prices on stuff like that aren't always the closest yards.

 

 

 

Needed an engine for a '13 Impreza (FB20), most yards were in the $2-3k range, found one in Ohio for $1300 + 200 freight with 1,300 miles on it.

 

 

 

Shop around, make calls. Deals are out there.

 

 

There is one in El Paso I'm calling on.

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I'm a bit confused, I thought you said gates would pay for any engine damage?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

 

They will after I pay out of pocket and send the failed part with receipts.

 

They won't pay up front. That's why I'm trying to budget...I'm paying until they pay back. I really just want it fixed, I'm not looking to take them for a ride.

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You shouldn't look to buy an unknown time bomb either. Buy new parts, save the receipts, get reimbursed. Get a credit card that will do 0% for XX month if needed IMO, as long as you will get reimbursed for the charges and pay it off.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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You shouldn't look to buy an unknown time bomb either. Buy new parts, save the receipts, get reimbursed. Get a credit card that will do 0% for XX month if needed IMO, as long as you will get reimbursed for the charges and pay it off.

 

These are some serious words of wisdom. Its exactly what I would do if I were in your shoes because you always take a gamble on a used block, and if you lose that gamble then its completely out of your pocket. Heed this warning!

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These are some serious words of wisdom. Its exactly what I would do if I were in your shoes because you always take a gamble on a used block, and if you lose that gamble then its completely out of your pocket. Heed this warning!

 

 

Heeded.

 

I found a reputable engine shop in Houston that will install a reman long block for 3100 with a 3 year 100k warranty. That is the best I have found.

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The EJ253 motors are a lot less prone to go all 'splody. . . so generally it's a safe bet buying used on those as the worst thing that usually happens to them is the HG's leak oil, and you can see if that's the case as soon as it shows up.

 

used turbo motor? Yeah, I'm gonna need to have a look up her skirt. . . grab the colonoscope and KY!

 

But yeah if it were me I'd just pop the heads off and redo them. . . but apparently that is a $6k job in Houston.

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The EJ253 motors are a lot less prone to go all 'splody. . . so generally it's a safe bet buying used on those as the worst thing that usually happens to them is the HG's leak oil, and you can see if that's the case as soon as it shows up.

 

used turbo motor? Yeah, I'm gonna need to have a look up her skirt. . . grab the colonoscope and KY!

 

But yeah if it were me I'd just pop the heads off and redo them. . . but apparently that is a $6k job in Houston.

 

 

No kidding. It's like nobody wants to do the labor on that, they will swap engines all day long, but actually taking one apart and working on the guts is not what anyone wants to do....unless it's a Powerstroke or Cummins. They will work on those all day long, but oilfield loves their diesels, so that's what we have around here...

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This is what the Subaru performance shop estimated. I think my best bet is to get the long block with the warranty swapped, send the invoices to Gates, get my money back, and try and enjoy this car.

 

It seems that the labor involved in taking everything apart to machine, inspect, etc is the same or slightly more than the LB swap...

 

 

 

 

http://s4.postimg.org/gdqp6me2l/subaru_estimate.jpg

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Jeez. . . costs me about $350 to get a set of non-turbo heads reworked. Milled, valves ground, new seals. . .and that's with the machine shop disassembling/reassembling the valves (I do have to pull the rocker boxes and cams to get that price tho).

 

I very seriously doubt you need a $2,100 short block even if it crashed valves in all 4 cyl's.

 

Also. . 10qts of $11/qt "break in" oil? To quote Pocohontas. . .f*ck me running.

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Well the engine shop took everything apart. All the valves are shot and the Pistons took a hit. We are going to go back with the turbo Pistons and turbo head gasket. The price difference between the turbo piston and regular piston is only $50 for the set. Total cost is about 2500 so that's not too bad.
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Turbo pistons will lower compression significantly. . . like from 9.5:1 to about 8:1. It'll run like a dog. . . unless you hang a turbo on it.

 

unless they mean forged or hypereutectic pistons with a standard NA C/R

 

Thanks, I'll double check. Turbo HG ok to use, turbo pistons no.

 

They just called again and said the cylinder is damaged and I'm looking at a complete rebuild.

 

 

Fudge.

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It's been a long time, but http://ccrengines.com/ used to have a good reputation. 3 year 50k warranty - longblock is just under 4,000.

 

I looked that that. Way out of budget for me.

 

3795 for the engine, plus another 1000 to install is almost 5k out of pocket while I wait for Gates.

 

 

But the engine shop already has the labor to disassemble the engine that I've paid, so I really don't want to rack up costs.

 

I am ok with a good machine shop rebuilding the existing engine as opposed to an reman LB with who knows what guts or who put it together.

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With the additional damage found today, price is now 4k for the rebuild.

 

I am so effing pissed. I am pissed at myself for buying the parts and trying to save a few hundred and now out another 4k for this thing.

 

The guys at the engine shop think the installer didn't use thread locker on the tensioner bolt like they are supposed to, but I can't prove or disprove it at this point. I am supposed to pick up the bolt at the shop, so I can see if there is any red on the threads.

 

But I sourced the parts, so that's on me.

 

 

Arrrrrgh.

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I'm not sure if you saw the gates link I posted over at bitog, but it sounds like gates includes blue threadlocker with the kit and says to use it. I'm not sure of this though, since I've never purchased or used the gates timing kit.

 

*Just to be clear, I'm just writing that as another way of saying don't be too hard on yourself. It's not your fault threadlocker wasn't used, if it was supposed to be used. Like I said at bitog, the FSM doesn't mention threadlocker, but the Gates technical bulletin does say to use it.. Soo I don't know..

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