NavyMan86 Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 Been searching the forums for a while and haven't come across anything yet, but... 05 LGT 5MT I want to take the AC belt off since I'm not gonna need it this winter, obviously; as well as freeing up the horsies and taking the strain off of the crank. Also gonna look in to an underdrive pulley/belt kit, eventually. Anyway, can I take the AC belt off and not cause any adverse conditions. I mean I could look and see if the belt goes to anything else, but you never know. My pride in asking for help with this is nil to none, hah. Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 I guess you don't realize the A/C runs in the winter when you select the Defroster. Do yourself a favor and stop thinking about doing such worthless stuff. A LWCP may be nice to have but your better off spending that money on a Tune and get more HP that way. I also run my A/C in the winter for about 10 miles once a month just to keep it running and lubed and make sure everything works like it should. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesuby Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 Max is correct. Wait until you get the bill for repairing the a/c. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 Max is correct. Wait until you get the bill for repairing the a/c. Yep. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NavyMan86 Posted October 23, 2015 Author Share Posted October 23, 2015 I DO know that the AC runs with the defrost. But there is the option to turn it off and still run the defrost. Guess I should have put that in there. I also do plan on getting a tune after I buy a new exhaust ski from the headers all the way back to the muffler. But buying an Accessport first before I start installing, since I'll need a tune anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 I figured you knew how the defroster works. The main point was you need to keep the system working year round. It's much cheaper that way. Don't be in a hurry to spend you money. Get the AP first, get the car off the OEM MAP asap. Next would be up pipe and down pipe. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NavyMan86 Posted October 24, 2015 Author Share Posted October 24, 2015 An uppipe and downpipe are in the works. Along with unequal length headers and the whole sh'bang. But yes, the AP is coming first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 Don't waste your money on ELH, unless your looking for big HP #'s. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 Air conditioner causes virtually no drag on the system as long as you have it turned off. If you do remove the belt, you'll have rust on the pulleys in the grooves where they contact the belt and once you do reinstall it, it will eat the belt prematurely. There is really no reason to remove it except in an emergency (idler bearing failure-ask me how I KNOW this, or if the clutch begins to hang up) and as everyone has said, if you do want to use it in the summer, run it in the winter too because it relies on movement of the refrigerant and oil in the system to keep everything working. As for underdriven pulleys, that's it's own bag of issues. If you are going to drive the car normally, it will possibly cause you to have charging issues and also your power steering's efficiency can be affected as well. You'll gain almost nothing from it, regardless of what they try to tell you and you'll have to spend more money on an additional set of belts. Underdrive pulleys are for guys with big V8's that are going to the track this coming weekend and they want to gain a bit of low end snap, and it does help in those cases, but almost no one leaves them on their car (I belong to a Shelby club and see people changing them at the track in the morning before the day begins) because of the above problems. Good luck and honest opinion from an A/C specialist, leave the belt on, drive it with it on once in a while, even in the winter, and you'll be much happier and it will cost you much less $$$ in the long run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanyb505 Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 These guys have no idea what they're talking about. Get some bolt cutters, cut that sucker right off. The 16hp you'll free up is worth buying the $16 belt next year whenever you want. Best bang for buck mod possible on our cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 Well there you have it, someone that knows how much HP yu'll gain. Most of us just get a custom tune and crank up the boost. But what do we know... 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 There is really no reason to remove it except in an emergency (idler bearing failure-ask me how I KNOW this, or if the clutch begins to hang up) I was in a similar situation a month ago. I have a bad habit of over tightening things, and while tightening the nut on the ac idler pulley, I sheared the bolt off too. Ordered the parts online, and was without AC for about a week while I had the belt off the car. Car might have felt a tiny bit peppier when revving the engine, but other than that I didn't notice much, but then again I have a NA legacy. I would probably leave the belt on to help remove fog from the interior windows when needed, but I guess opening the windows could help do that too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwag74 Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 I'll echo every other poster. The A/C runs when the defroster is on for a reason, leave it that way. My A/C was disconnected for a few months while I looked for a deal on a replacement A/C compressor after my failed crank pulley wiped out my A/C clutch. I couldn't notice any discernible difference in power with it disconnected. Out of curiosity though when you said "But there is the option to turn it off and still run the defrost" how exactly do you do that unless you are referring to just disconnecting it. The vehicle will automatically run the A/C compressor regardless of if you have the the A/C button on when using the defrost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NavyMan86 Posted October 25, 2015 Author Share Posted October 25, 2015 Whenever I turn the defrost on, I press the a/c button afterward to keep the defrost air flow on, but the ac off. So I'll leave the belt on. End of story. Max, what did you mean by ELH? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike07LGT Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 Equal length headers he is saying are pointless unless you are gonna be upgrading to a big turbo and alot of boost. 03 WRB WRX (RIP) 04 JBP STI (sold) 07 DGM Legacy GT (RIP) 12 OBP STI (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 25, 2015 Share Posted October 25, 2015 Same with the stock CAI, do not swap it out for a after market cold air intake. Just heard today that the AEM panel filter is really good if you want more air flow. Read this, he's my Tuner. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/independent-testing-grimmspeed-intake-246447.html 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwag74 Posted October 26, 2015 Share Posted October 26, 2015 Whenever I turn the defrost on, I press the a/c button afterward to keep the defrost air flow on, but the ac off. So I'll leave the belt on. End of story. Max, what did you mean by ELH? That doesn't shut your A/C compressor off. If you open the hood you will see it still cycles. It is made that way so your A/C unit gets cycled year around when you run the defrost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too luchadorjose Posted October 26, 2015 I Donated Too Share Posted October 26, 2015 Your defroster is a two part system. When you hit the defroster button, YES IT WILL BLOW AIR ON YOUR WINDSHIELD. *BUT* it will not work efficiently because the second part of the system is your AC operating as a dehumidifier. If you blow moist hot air at your windshield, it's actually doing more harm than good as a defroster. There's a reason your AC has a clutch pulley. When the AC is not running, it doesn't put any strain on your motor. That's why there's an AC *ON* and AC *OFF* setting for your idle in your car's computer. Absolutely do not remove the AC for winter or go with underdriven pulleys. That's small displacement NA motor thinking. You're better off focusing on uppipe, downpipe, tune, and driver mod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too luchadorjose Posted October 26, 2015 I Donated Too Share Posted October 26, 2015 Oh, also, your car's computer will automatically disengage the AC clutch when you go into open loop fueling (boost). SO when you are trying to go fast, the AC is *completely turned off* #themoreyouknow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NavyMan86 Posted October 26, 2015 Author Share Posted October 26, 2015 #themoreyouknow indeed. I left the air box in and put a K&N panel filter in. Love it. The only reason I really want the UELH is to get that rumble. Plus, I will likely, as said before, refit the exhaust to get rid of the uppipe cat since it is for sure failing, and yeah. All supporting upgrades towards a beefier turbo, eventually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted October 27, 2015 Share Posted October 27, 2015 You already unequal from the factory. Play around with Hogzaust if you don't believe us. Tossing on axle back may be all you need unless you want to go louder. Don't cut your belt if that hasn't already been cleared up. I broke my adjustor and ran w/o A/C for a little bit till parts came in. I also upgraded the pulley from metal to plastic since the bearing in the metal one were prone to fail. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.