chucks06LGT Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 So Im new to the Subaru scene, just picked up an 06 GT. Awesome site you guys have here, tons of info. Well the problem is as the title says. When accelerating in a right hand turn from a stop, I get a clicking/popping noise you can feel thru the floorboards. Seems like a CV joint, but the little dealership I bought it from replaced it and the problem is still there. Doesn't do it when turning right. Everyday of the week I would have said the CV joint. Now Im a bit worried.. Any thoughts? Thanks for the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 Did they replace both front cv axles, or just one? Like you said it sounds like an axle issue, but I've heard the center differential could make a clicking and popping sound too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucks06LGT Posted October 16, 2015 Author Share Posted October 16, 2015 No, only the right front. If it was the center differential, wouldn't I likely get noise turning both directions? Its troubling because I bought the car "as is" but the dealer fixed this because I recognized while out on the test drive. If it becomes a bigger ( more expensive ) problem, I feel him may jump ship... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KRM Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 Have you checked out the control arm bushing on that side? Just a good chance it could have failed also. And they tend to make a noise like you describe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucks06LGT Posted October 16, 2015 Author Share Posted October 16, 2015 Today while driving, I took a right into a parking lot and ended up going over some pot holes. Got a real nasty thumping out of the right front, starting to figure it may be suspension related Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KRM Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 If it's the bushings. There are decent priced prothane kits on ebay. But there are alot of us that are using the whiteline ones because of the options they offer, ya know, because race car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 No, only the right front. If it was the center differential, wouldn't I likely get noise turning both directions? I think you're right, I wasn't thinking. I don't know enough about center diff's to say for sure. I'm pretty sure my car has always made some pretty nasty noises when I hit potholes and other bumps, but it definitely doesn't hurt to inspect your suspension components, and lower control arm bushings like KRM mentioned. If I were in your shoes, just out of curiosity, I would gently tug on the cv joint next to the transmission to see if maybe it isn't fully seated in the transmission. It's not likely that's the problem, since you'd probably lose a little transmission fluid if it wasn't in all the way, but something you might be able to easily try or eyeball when under the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucks06LGT Posted November 14, 2015 Author Share Posted November 14, 2015 Just following up.. Dealer swapped the two axles on the front to see if the sound went with the axle, and it didn't. Checked the bushings and they claimed they were good. I am curious to the thought behind the bushings being no good. How could they cause that type of clicking sound...???? What else could possibly cause a clicking sound and not be a CV joint? The dealer wants one more "mechanic" to look at it before sending it the dealer. I am starting to go a bit crazy with this.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike07LGT Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 Just following up.. Dealer swapped the two axles on the front to see if the sound went with the axle, and it didn't. Checked the bushings and they claimed they were good. I am curious to the thought behind the bushings being no good. How could they cause that type of clicking sound...???? What else could possibly cause a clicking sound and not be a CV joint? The dealer wants one more "mechanic" to look at it before sending it the dealer. I am starting to go a bit crazy with this.... Claiming they are good is different then actually being good... hear about dealerships screwing people all the time. Get it out of there and take it to someone who knows what they are doing 03 WRB WRX (RIP) 04 JBP STI (sold) 07 DGM Legacy GT (RIP) 12 OBP STI (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucks06LGT Posted November 15, 2015 Author Share Posted November 15, 2015 I hear what your saying. But I am curious as to how bad bushings can replicate the sound a bum CV joint makes? A clunk or a thud, sure, but a clicking sound? Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RacerX69 Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 Claiming they are good is different then actually being good... hear about dealerships screwing people all the time. No doubt. One of the front struts on my wagon started leaking not long after I bought it. Since it was still under warranty I took it to the stealership. They were really nice, kissed my ass, gave me a loaner while they had it to do the repair. When I picked it up I had a look at the strut. I live on a gravel (dirt) road, so the dust had collected on the oil that had been leaking from the strut. Since the dirt was undisturbed, it was clear they had done nothing. I confronted the service writer who assured me they had performed the repair, he even lied and said that he had personally inspected the car afterwards. Without another word I made my way to the dealership owner's office. I made it clear that I would be back at the same time the next day and the car would have a new strut on it. I also made it known that I was forwarding a complaint to Subaru of America. My car was ready the next day, and there was a new service writer working there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 Was the right a new axle or a remanufactured one ? Some of the new ones are the wrong length, after after a while they will click. My trusted mechanic learned that. Almost a year after he replaced my left front, (new aftermarket) I stopped by and told him I heard a clicking sound at times. Then he told me the story, he replaced it with a reman axle, all has been fine since. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucks06LGT Posted November 15, 2015 Author Share Posted November 15, 2015 The right axle was a reman. The left was original. That's why the swapped it. To see if the sound was being caused by the axle. I seen the work was done when it was on the lift. Fyi, this is a mom and pop corner lot type dealership. Not that they can't be deceiving I just don't think they have the resources to properly figure this out. That's why I am reaching out here. So I may possibly help them to help me. Can a wheel bearing do this? Or is something possibly wrong in the diff? Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 Where in CT ? Wheel bearings typically hum, the hum changes at speed going around corners or on flyovers on the highway. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucks06LGT Posted November 15, 2015 Author Share Posted November 15, 2015 Me? Windsor. Dealer? Vernon Exactly what I know about wheel bearings as well. Replaced plenty of them in my days and everyone knew one to cause this issue. The car was purchased originally at Torrington Subaru. One owner traded in and went to auction. Starting to wonder if they knew something was wrong and just got rid of the car.... Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 15, 2015 Share Posted November 15, 2015 It's a little drive but Rich at Colonial Tire and Brake in Somersville on Rt190 by the intersection with RT186, Hall Hill Rd, which is where I grew up, is my trusted mechanic, 860 749 7899. Tell him Byron sent you. The machine shop which is Eastwoods Auto Machine is right down the street, which is where my Tranny guy works. When you need the car Tuned, www.tuningalliance.com is one of the best Mike is in Vernon right off exit 65. My Spec B is with him now. If you need OEM parts, use my name at Suburban Subaru parts counter, they'll take good care of you. http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ Do you have that yet ? the GT's start around page 1617. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucks06LGT Posted November 15, 2015 Author Share Posted November 15, 2015 Thanks Byron, you reached out to me earlier and I appreciate it. This is in the dealers hands, I was just trying to help them to help me so I can stop bringing the car back to them. This was the third time, next I told them they need to send the car to the dealer, I'll pick it up when its repaired. Not this bring it back, try something and come back again for the next trial...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucks06LGT Posted November 16, 2015 Author Share Posted November 16, 2015 So to update: The general theory is that the issue is with the center diff. Curious, anyone know what's involved and any other thoughts on cost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted November 17, 2015 Share Posted November 17, 2015 The thread below has a couple of quotes, I'm not sure if AT vs MT makes a difference in price and such. A guy in that thread was quoted $1200 from a dealer, $950 from an independent shop. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/center-differential-problems-173302.html On the other hand.. this guy was quoted $1700. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/center-diff-going-bad-optionsi-153846p2.html I just thought of something too, how much tread do each of the tires have? I'm not sure if the noise you hear is the from the center diff being unhappy, but still good, or if it is truly shot. So I would check the tread depth to see if uneven tread depth could be causing your problems, and even if it's not, I would check anyways to make sure it doesn't cause a problem in the future if you do replace the center diff. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/30110-tire-circumference-spec-confirmed-subaru-techtips.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imprezkid Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 Any update on what this ended up being? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucks06LGT Posted May 12, 2017 Author Share Posted May 12, 2017 No, unfortunately. 2 dealerships and no resolution... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harsho1 Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 I had the same issue. I ended up replacing my rear trans mount. It was torn, but was not visible on a lift. Only visible when torque was applied. when turning left it would twist the drivetrain down, but when turning right it would twist it up, causing it to bang on the floor. My local dealer had a few of them in stock, I modded mine to be more durable by filling it with liquid polyurathane. Night and day difference! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 No, unfortunately. 2 dealerships and no resolution... 18 month's and its not fixed ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucks06LGT Posted May 15, 2017 Author Share Posted May 15, 2017 No, and it sucks. It's not a horrible issue, but something is wrong. One dealer went after the axle which has been replaced 3 times already. Geez, you think they would listen to me when I tell them that isn't the problem. I can drive the car and its fine nearly 98% of the time. Its only taking a right from a stop sign/light. The other dealer said they don't feel its within the differential. But after having the car for a period of time, they couldn't find the issue either. @Harsho1, when you had your problem did it sound like a bad CV joint? This is what drives me nuts about dealerships. Just throw parts at the car until something happens then charge the customer for all of those parts. I repair CNC machinery for a living and if I worked liked that I'd be out of a job...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 When I had the left front axle make a clicking noise sometimes, when taking off from a stop sign, when I told my trusted mechanic about that, before I finished, he told me yea, your not the only one, bring it in and we'll replace that left front axle under warranty. They had found that that brand of aftermarket axle had issues with being the wrong length. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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