redvtech07 Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 Hi ladies and Gents, I have a 2007 Legacy 2.5 (non turbo) it has about 85 thousand on it. Both of the inner Boots on the CV axle shafts are seeping grease. There are no visible signs of tears or rips in the pleats. I replaced the clamps on the passenger side boot to see if that would help, but there was no change. Has anyone run into this? How did you fix it without replacing axles? Mine are not clicking or making noises going around turns. Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fasemelta Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 In the same boat. . .sub'd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 I was in the same boat, but ultimately just ended up replacing my axles. With that said, I did look into my options when I first noticed the problem at around 100k. What types of clamps did you use and how did you tighten them? I attached a picture of the problem I had, which I believe is the same problem you're having? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redvtech07 Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 Thanks Apexi, The picture looks like the same problem I'm having. I used a factory style clamp with a banding tool. I think the boots have lost some integrity. Just curious, was there a reason you opted for new axles instead of just the boots? Here are the clamps I used. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D4NB4VE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00]CTA Tools 4240 CV Joint Boot Clamp Set - Strap Clamps - Amazon.com[/ame] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 It sounds like you did exactly what I was thinking about doing. When I first noticed the problem, I had no idea how long grease had been seeping out for, as I had never really looked at or around the boots before. So I cleaned up any grease I saw, and when I checked again after a week or so, more grease had flung out and was seeping out. Not knowing much about cv axles, how to remove them, how to reboot them, etc, I weighed my options. My initial plan was to put a new clamp on there, like you did. But the thing is, the stock boot clamp seemed pretty tight. I questioned, would I be able to get the new clamp that tight, or tighter? Especially since I planned on putting the new clamp on with the axle still in the car, and space would be tight. I had never used a band clamp before, so I started to worry what if I didn't tighten the clamp enough, and it made the problem worse? Also, I had another problem that I thought could be related to the cv joint. When I would slowly pull into a parking space while turning, I would hear a clicking noise. Turns out that wasn't an axle issue, since it still happens after replacing both front axles. I think the clicking I hear is from aftermarket brake pads, and cheap, thin, aftermarket brake pad clips moving around. Anyways, being indecisive I said F it, I'll drive on the axles as is, and replace the axles when they start to go bad and make noise. Grease continued to seep out, I kept cleaning up every week or so, and just continued to drive on it. One weekend when I was bored, I decided to just replace the axles while I had the free time. That opened up a whole new can of worms.. Unbeknownst to me at the time, the pinch bolt that holds the top of the ball joint likes to snap when you try to remove it. Ended up having to replace both front knuckles, in addition to the axles. I now know that there is another way to remove the axles without messing with those pinch bolts, or even the castle nut on the bottom of the ball joint. Despite everything that went wrong, I'm still glad I replaced the axles, because I learned a whole lot in the process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orndog Posted July 21, 2015 Share Posted July 21, 2015 Replacing boots is a messy, nasty job. You still have to remove the axle, then cut the boot off and dismantle and clean the joint. Then reassembly and greasing. So much easier to put in a new shaft instead of rebuilding an old one that might or might not be wearing already anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/replace-rebuild-torn-cv-boot-and-axle-108975.html FWIW, I ordered both boots from my dealer yesterday. After 211,000 miles the passenger side axle boot finally tore. After having 3 aftermarket axles in the drivers side. I'm rebuilding my OEM axle. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redvtech07 Posted July 26, 2015 Author Share Posted July 26, 2015 I ended up replacing the clamps on the outside of the boots again, this time with hose clamps. This was actually recommended by a Subaru dealer. I wouldn't have thought to do it, but it worked and I'm not leaking grease anymore. I have taken a few long drives with the car and haven't had any issues. I guess I didn't have the other clamp tight enough. Thanks for your help everyone. I hope this thread helps someone down the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orndog Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 I used zip ties once, they held for quite a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sanchitosonria Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 What size hose clamps did you use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akasa Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 My friend's 2.5i has the same issue, it's flinging grease out of the band clamp. I'm hesitant to reboot them, so I might just tell him to buy new axles. Apexi, what I did on my GT when I sheared my knuckle pinch bolt off, is I drilled it out with my cobalt bit set and installed a metric 10.9 bolt with a lock washer on either side. It's been working perfectly for nearly 30k miles, saved me buying a new knuckle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmedic Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 Happens a lot. The band can be replaced without removing the axle from the car. The factory installed bands (which I like as they're reusable) clamp to a preset diameter. Aftermarket ones will clamp as tight as you can make them. Can't offer an explanation as to why they sometimes leak but replacing the bands does seem to work and keeps you from having to reboot immediately. That said, a lot of the time when I see them leaking, the boots are also starting to crack so I just go ahead and reboot. Rebooting is the way to go becuz aftermarket axles suck big time. If you do swap the whole axle, save your old OEM (don't turn it in for the core) and reboot at your convenience. . or pay someone to do it if you don't like getting greasy. Parts washer is your friend for that job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ras06LGT Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 I had the same issue. Cleaned them up well and applied a thin bead of black RTV around the end of each boot, similar to how you would apply caulking to a bath tub. Had the wheels off the ground so I could spin them to get a uniform spread. Worked like a charm. No issues since. A little, umm, back-yard mechanic-y, but if it works, it works! Cheaper than new axles/boots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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