Theshwartz35 Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 So I recently bought my lgt and had some bolt ons installed. Headers, UP, DP, cat back exhaust, and new top mount intercooler. The rest is a stock ej255 turbo. The other night I was run into the median by some idiot drunk on the way home and in the process of hitting holes getting back onto the interstate at 80 mph knocked something loose in the engine. I have a guy at Winchester subaru that does all my work and he says I need a new engine/turbo. What I'm asking is should I just fork out the money for a new engine/turbo through them or should I buy the performance block and parts I want on the car and have the install them instead? Of the latter, can anyone suggest a good setup for something between around 400-500 hp? I know I'll end up paying more for the performance setup obviously but, I wanted to eventually do internal work anyway so should now be the time? I have a civic si as my driver so time isn't too much of an issue. Any guidance here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Also, this lgt is automatic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 The real questions is, how much are you willing to spend to achive 400+ whp? If you have the dealer just replace the OEM motor and turbo, you'll be looking at over $8,000 plus. If you throw in forged internals, larger turbo, upgraded fuel pump/injectors into the mix, you'll be over $10k plus. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theshwartz35 Posted July 14, 2015 Author Share Posted July 14, 2015 That's what I'm asking. Should I just start with the block and use the existing heads of possible? Buy performance heads and performance block? I would like to keep cost low but I know you have to pay for power. I figured it would be cheaper to just buy performance myself and install rather than buy an oem motor and turbo and then upgrade everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theshwartz35 Posted July 14, 2015 Author Share Posted July 14, 2015 But to answer your question directly, budget isn't too much of an issue. Just want to achieve this goal as "cost efficient" as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 To save as much as you can, means doing as much work as you can. Are you able to pull the motor out yourself and reinstall it after the motor has been upgraded? You'll save at least $2,000 there. If the block is still good, I would recommend having a trusted machine shop hone out the cylinders and fit forged pistons and internals. Average cost for this is around $2k. If you buy one off Ebay with forged internals you'll be looking at $2,500 plus. You can keep the same heads, but they will need to be checked out by a machine shop for clearances and deck the mating surface. Usually cost between $200 - $600 depending on what they have to fix/correct. Turbo - it depends on how big you want to go, if your shooting for 400+ hp, then you want to go BNR 20g or bigger. Check with the vendors on this form for your application. You'll be looking at around 1k for this, or more depending on size. Fueling - You will want to go with the 1000cc type fuel pump with 1000cc injectors to match the fuel flow from the pump. Clutch - May consider going with a stage 2 or 3 to handle the extra power. Gasket set - Full motor gasket set will run you about $300, give or take. This is just in a nut shell. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 I'm not sure why you need a new engine. What exactly is the problem? Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 Because 400+whp. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theshwartz35 Posted July 15, 2015 Author Share Posted July 15, 2015 I'm not exactly sure. And yes I can pull the engine out and reinstall. That's probably the route I'll take. What should I hone the cylinders to? There's a very good machine shop not far from home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 What I meant is in your original post you said you hit some holes and knocked something loose in your engine and the shop says you need a new engine and turbo. I'm wondering why you need a new or rebuilt engine at all. What is the symptom/issue that indicates you need a new engine or a rebuilt engine? Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 15, 2015 Share Posted July 15, 2015 You didn't say who Tuned the car for all those parts you had put on. Who Tuned it ? Next question is why do you think you need 400whp in one of these cars ? Have you driven a car like that before ? 400whp in these cars will get exciting very quickly if you don't know what your doing. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theshwartz35 Posted July 16, 2015 Author Share Posted July 16, 2015 The only thing I know about the problem with the engine is how it souynded when it happened. After we got back onto the road I started to hear a slight rattling noise that slowly progrssed in volume and intensity. Became a knocking.. then a winding/grinding and knocking... then it was parked and towed. It would still move mind you, just not well. The dealership hasn't torn it apart. All they did was start it, listen to it, and say it needed a new motor and turbo. Also, after the bolt ons it was tuned with my Cobb Accessport by the Subaru Mechanic through, I was told, cobb's website. The reason I want to rebuild the engine for performance is because we have a track nearby that I would love to enter some of the amateur races. Summit Point Raceway if anyone's interested. To answer your question, I've owned a GTO and had the privilege of driving around a Mustang GT500KR for a week that belonged to my boss whiule he was away on his honeymoon. So I'm no stranger to what the throttle can do and I'm also not someone who tears down the highway or interstate weaving through traffic causing accidents and scaring people. This car will be more of a weekend warrior if rebuilt how I want. I've been reading a lot about the EJ series engines and how I should go about achieving this HP goal. Doesnt seem like it's going to be as hard as I thought. All info you guys have given me so far has been a huge help though. Keep it coming! Also, I will be moving the car back to my house to start the teardown tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theshwartz35 Posted July 16, 2015 Author Share Posted July 16, 2015 By the way. I want to use a Garrett turbo. Could someone suggest a good model for HP goal? 400-450 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 You'll want to PM "m sprank" he's in CA and can help you out with all your needs. His site is http://www.infamousperformance.net 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 Amateur Racing: Drag Strip or Road Racing? With 400-500 whp you will be in a VERY expensive class in road racing. The cost of the rebuilt engine will be minor compared to gutting out your interior, installing a custom cage, fire safety system, fuel cell, race tires, safety belts/window net/race seat. In other words it will no longer be usable as daily driver, or street driven car at all, if you intend to race it on a road course. And that power probably means tossing the new TMIC for an FMIC, new injectors and fuel rails, new turbo, and a host of other parts. If you are serious about racing you need to pick a class and build to the class, not pick a HP and build the rest of the car around the class that HP fits you into. I can just imagine what MrTris would be saying right now! Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 He's been blowing up my phone, that's what he's been saying. I found the how-to post you have been looking for: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MqydutAXozo]Do You Want To Build A Racecar? (Frozen Cover/Parody: Do You Want to Build a Snowman?) - YouTube[/ame] Once you have absorbed that, you should read this: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/amateur-motorsports-and-you-can-get-involved-you-legacy-199487.html Now, with that bothersome reality crap out of the way, I think you should be aiming for 600hp. That was my target goal, however, pesky money got in the way. However, I think you have the ability, desire, and most importantly, cash flow to succeed where I failed. Please let me know how I can help? Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 By the way. I want to use a Garrett turbo. Could someone suggest a good model for HP goal? 400-450 A gt35r is a nice choice, I think that would do nicely. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sgt.Gator Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 I just re-read your post and noticed it's an automatic. That means road racing is out unless you are planning a manual swap too. My advice: Keep it as close to stock as possible from this point forwards. Find a reputable tuner and get a custom tune. The Cobb off the shelf tunes are good for a basic setup and to get going, but a custom dyno tune will be worth the $$. Forget racing it unless you just want to go to the drag strip for grins. Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine. "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theshwartz35 Posted July 18, 2015 Author Share Posted July 18, 2015 Started the teardown yesterday but, u,fortunetly today didn't really allow for outside work. Picked up a 10'x10' canopy. No more days rained out! Lol. Will post some pictures soon. Once again thank everyone for all their help. Good info btw boxkita. Gonna look up summits events soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CapnJack Posted July 18, 2015 Share Posted July 18, 2015 Do you want 400-500 wheel horsepower or crank horsepower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tocinoman25 Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 http://www.rallispec.com/eng_sbl_rssb25v.html JK/easy way to fix/replace your block =) check out the steamspeed stx71 turbo...i will soon to get built shortblock and turn up the boost even more...im 5spd manual though goodluck on your build...i like to read on teardowns/rebuilds...it educates me Follow me on IG @chefodiycarguy and @chefo.soriano Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 Hint, to help the 5mt survive get Moore Performance Blast Plates. Very happy with mine. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theshwartz35 Posted July 21, 2015 Author Share Posted July 21, 2015 Well I decided to instead just go ahead and get new case halves through my guy at Subaru and build from the block up. There was a small issue with piling and a new turbo when I originally got the car so, we both came to the agreement that it would be a better option. Anything I should have checked on the block before I start fitting internals? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted July 21, 2015 Share Posted July 21, 2015 did you buy case halves or a shortblock? Shortblock is always the better option, because money (its cheaper). If starting over, start over from scratch. Swapping in the used internals is not going to endear the "new" engine to you. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tocinoman25 Posted July 22, 2015 Share Posted July 22, 2015 Hint, to help the 5mt survive get Moore Performance Blast Plates. Very happy with mine. or go with what i have...APM Tuned blast plates/transmission reinforcement plates...shifting is uber smooth and walks in with ease...in a snap https://www.apmtuned.com/store/transmission-reinforcement-plates Follow me on IG @chefodiycarguy and @chefo.soriano Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN6629_zps19ecc410.jpg Yep, love the way the tranny shifts now. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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