zero7404 Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 ^^^how does he know it's the original battery??? Personally, I find that extremely hard to believe! i agree ... hard to believe an oem battery still good after 20 yrs of use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero7404 Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 just disappointing that this is happening to ppl with new cars ... either the battery is cheap quality or its insufficient for the car. i would change it out with something better i think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubieN8 Posted July 16, 2015 Author Share Posted July 16, 2015 just disappointing that this is happening to ppl with new cars ... either the battery is cheap quality or its insufficient for the car. i would change it out with something better i think. I hope we just left a light on or something... If not, then that's what our warranty is for. Just a pain and it IS disappointing, I agree. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 Hey...it happens. Not every mechanical or electronic device is perfect the first time when brand new. Check out reviews of refridgerators, TV's, computers, phones, microwaves, etc.....sometimes there is just something wrong from the start and you ALWAYS hear about the bad experiences and rarely about the tens of thousands of good ones. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoda_One Posted July 16, 2015 Share Posted July 16, 2015 I guess the internet use to be for porn but not it for people to complain. Laughing at Oneself and with Other is good for the Soul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero7404 Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 Hey...it happens. Not every mechanical or electronic device is perfect the first time when brand new. Check out reviews of refridgerators, TV's, computers, phones, microwaves, etc.....sometimes there is just something wrong from the start and you ALWAYS hear about the bad experiences and rarely about the tens of thousands of good ones. theres a problem with something imo .... if you had to go on a trip and left your car at the airport for 7 days, is it expected that you'd have to get a jump when you return ? even more of a problem is the window switches reprogramming, if Subaru doesnt want to cover this as a warranty issue and i have to pay for the service ? im not doing that because of a crappy designed electrical system. if there is something defective then thats another story. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBMikeP Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 My '15 Outback Limited was garaged for 2 months without use while I was out of the country. It started without hesitation when I used it for the first time. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubieN8 Posted July 17, 2015 Author Share Posted July 17, 2015 Thank you for chiming in, OBMikeP. This leads me to believe that if no lights were left on, no doors were left open, then it's a faulty battery or wiring issue. Although the dealer found "nothing wrong" in my case, I am anxious to see how this turns out for you. Good luck zero7404! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zero7404 Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 we'll see ... ill post tomorrow when i take it in. when i called they mentioned its not a warranty issue ... which is bothersome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubieN8 Posted July 17, 2015 Author Share Posted July 17, 2015 we'll see ... ill post tomorrow when i take it in. when i called they mentioned its not a warranty issue ... which is bothersome If your car is under the 3/36k period, it's covered if it's found that any of the related components are failing or have failed. If they find nothing wrong, then it's not covered under warranty and you may be responsible for the cost of the loaner or labor, etc. A GOOD Service Dept/Advisor will write off those small charges (if any) to gain/retain your business, as in my case. I was lent a 2015 Outback at $35/day while they diagnosed my dead battery. They found nothing wrong and charged the battery. They could've charged me for the 1 day loaner, but he waived it. Keep us updated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waldguy Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 ... hard to believe an oem battery still good after 20 yrs of use. My 98 Camry's battery was packed original with a Panasonic. Excellent battery - went 13 years in a cold climate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoda_One Posted July 17, 2015 Share Posted July 17, 2015 theres a problem with something imo .... if you had to go on a trip and left your car at the airport for 7 days, is it expected that you'd have to get a jump when you return ? even more of a problem is the window switches reprogramming, if Subaru doesnt want to cover this as a warranty issue and i have to pay for the service ? im not doing that because of a crappy designed electrical system. if there is something defective then thats another story. Should of Would of. Couldof Laughing at Oneself and with Other is good for the Soul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brandon.mol Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 The number 1 thing that ruins a lead-calcium sulfuric acid battery is improper charging. New cars have all kind of constant draws and tend to have under sized batteries. Improper charging = alternator voltage consistently less than 14.1 volts, or average weekly engine-start to charge-time ratio > 1-start:30-minutes-driving Idling doesn't count towards charging. Idling doesn't charge the battery much at all. You could idle the car basically forever and it would never recharge the battery equivalent to the charge used to start the car. A lot of voltage regulators in japanese vehicles are tuned for lead-acid (unsealed) batteries rather than lead-calcium (sealed "maintenance free") batteries. Lead-acid needs a lower charge voltage (13.7 - 13.9v) to charge properly while a lead/calcium-acid battery needs higher (14.1 - 14.8), ish. My Legacy charges at 14.3 - 14.6 volts which is perfect. My Toyota Rav 4 charges at 13.5 - 13.9 and chews through batteries every year or two. Solution: An AGM battery will help A LOT. Increasing the size of your battery (larger CCA and reserve) will also help. AGM + larger = even better. Batteries are a quick win for weight savings so most new cars come with massively undersized batteries. Also, get a CTek charger and once a month in the summer let it tune up your battery overnight, and in the winter do it once a week or any time the voltage across the terminals is 12.6 volts or less with no load and the car off for at least 30 min. You will never have a problem with your battery again. A CTek can bring almost any battery back from the brink of death. Even ones that are internally shorted. Exide Edge flat-plate AGM batteries are pretty awesome and a lot cheaper than Optimas, and probably a lot better too, built in the USA. In Canada you can get them from Canadian tire branded as a "Motomaster Ultra AGM" and they get rave reviews even in harsh freezing temperatures. http://amzn.com/B006G14FK8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 What evidence do you have the charging system does not work while the car is idling? Wouldn't traffic jams be full of cars with dead batteries if this were the case? The charging system is putting a load on the engine while at idle. What kind of battery is in your RAV4? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brandon.mol Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 I didn't say it isn't working. It's just not realllly charging the battery. It's just paying the bills for juice spent in ignition, lights, seat heaters, stereo, etc. It's obvious if you have a volt meter. Voltage levels are lower at idle, and insufficient for proper charging. It's not linear, 14.4 volts charges a LOT more than 13.9. 13.7 doesn't charge anything at all really and will ruin the battery if its not replenished at a higher voltage before the next discharge cycle/repeat. The evidence is cars chewing batteries while others are fine. It's the usage pattern combined with a substandard battery and or low charge voltage for the application. My Rav4 has an up sized flooded lead-calcium acid battery from Toyota in it, that has a warranty on it and they keep replacing it. As soon as they refuse, its getting a Motomaster Flatplate AGM. The car has been thoroughly tested for draws, charging system faults, etc. Replace the battery, works fine for about 1 year then starts going dead in the winter over night. Reason? Short trips 10 min, 2x per day, with 10-20 minutes of idling first in the winter (remote starter). This battery was toast. Had shorted cells caused by deep discharge in freezing temps. Put the ctek on it and a day later it was good as new, shorted cells fixed. Every weekend in the winter I plugged it in overnight and it keeps working fine. If we go 2 weeks without it we start having problems. Only in the winter. Summer is fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubieN8 Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 While the car is idling at normal operating temperature, in Park and with the headlights off...when you turn the headlights on, does your car's idle change, like its drawing too much power for a second, and then return to normal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 It should change. The headlights need power and draw a current. The alternator provides current and the engine exhibits a higher load. brandon.mol, I see the point you were making now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubieN8 Posted July 20, 2015 Author Share Posted July 20, 2015 It should change. The headlights need power and draw a current. The alternator provides current and the engine exhibits a higher load. brandon.mol, I see the point you were making now. I figured it was normal, but wanted to be sure especially after my initial post. Thanks:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubieN8 Posted July 20, 2015 Author Share Posted July 20, 2015 I put my ZXE Halogen HB and LB bulbs back in, but disabled the DRLs and switched the light stalk to OFF instead of Auto... I am running a test to see if my battery is affected or not (see 1st post for more info). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
securityguy Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 Those ZXE bulbs should really have nothing to do with it IMPO. If they're off they're off. No gray area here. I really think your issue was/is something else but who knows...could be proven wrong...wife finds me wrong more than not:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubieN8 Posted July 20, 2015 Author Share Posted July 20, 2015 Those ZXE bulbs should really have nothing to do with it IMPO. If they're off they're off. No gray area here. I really think your issue was/is something else but who knows...could be proven wrong...wife finds me wrong more than not:) LOL @ the Wifey comment... Yeah, who knows and only time will tell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yoda_One Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 I'm only right when she say I'm right. Laughing at Oneself and with Other is good for the Soul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
securityguy Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 Subie, regardless...you should get the passively cooled LED bulbs...very nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_m Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 Ok ... add me to the 'dead battery' club. No electrical mods since I added the cupholder lighting last March. Drove the car to work Friday, moved it out and in the driveway Saturday, unlocked and locked it to get my mail house keys Sunday. Completely dead Monday. Had to jumpstart it. The only thing I could possibly think of was maybe hitting one of the reading lights when I closed the sunshade on Sunday ... but highly unlikely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_m Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 And the car started fine this morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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