StkmltS Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 What's the tape for? My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooph Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 Top keep it sealed from an otherwise dusty environment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 Oh ok, I thought you were going to put tape on it right before putting it on the car. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooph Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 haha, I think that would be rather disastrous! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooph Posted June 27, 2015 Author Share Posted June 27, 2015 http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/27/879e0c6ea5fed9db5abeabc12b15a354.jpg http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/27/2ad59eaea5287e1bb06f5472d5d35d46.jpg Finally got it out.... Are the bottom two engine to transmission bolts supposed to be studs... Cause that was a real bitch to pry the two loose from one another... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 Finally got it out.... Are the bottom two engine to transmission bolts supposed to be studs... Cause that was a real bitch to pry the two loose from one another... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Theses two pins are the ones I really struggled with. The studs at the very bottom on the housing didn't really cause me much headache. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 Correcto, the 2 side metal dowel pins are a bitch to slide the trans/engine back on. Make sure to lube those pins really well before reconnecting. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooph Posted July 26, 2015 Author Share Posted July 26, 2015 So, got the engine in, looks like everything hooked up, just put the turbo in. Just need a 2 more bolts and 2 exhausts gaskets and she'll be back together.... Now I'm too afraid to start her... So, I'm a legacygt owner? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 Make sure you can crank the engine all way round with a socket and ratchet handle on the crankshaft pulley. Several turns. That way you are reasonably sure you don't have any interference and can try to start the engine. Just don't forget to remove the handle and socket from the pulley before trying to start. I did that once - and bent my handle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 Also make sure you turn the key for at least 10 seconds before you start it for the first time. I cycled my key on for a few minutes and the off a couple times before starting it. When I went to fire it up the first time, it started like it does everyday. Make sure you have extra coolant on hand... Make sure you burp the system too. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 How do you turn the key for 10 seconds without starting the motor... remove the fuel pump fuse? My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 On is where the key normally sits when you release it after you start the car. A lot of us turn the key to on, watch the gauges sweep, then start the engine. That allows the fuel pump to prime and the ECU to do it's pre start check. That's assuming, like a Honda, the ECU sends out a test signal before it will allow the engine to start. Also after you re-set the ECU you do the same thing, turn the key to on for 10 seconds. If you don't, the engine will not start for 10 seconds. You get oil pressure faster at idle than at cracking RPM. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooph Posted July 30, 2015 Author Share Posted July 30, 2015 OK, got it fired up yesterday. Turbo oil hose is spurting oil - will get new crush washers today and try again. Followed all of you guy's instructions along with pre-filing the turbo with oil and coolant. Fired right up! However, that TMIC... Damn, that thing is a bitch... really stupid question - you guys bolt down the TMIC and turbo before installing the down pipe? I ended up forgetting to tighten down the third bolt on the turbo under the down pipe, so tonight, since I gotta pull the TMIC back off to fix the banjo bolt -turbo inlet w/ new crush washers, gonna pull the down pipe back out and get the turbo/TMIC situated first before putting it back in... Any other advice on this? I'm stupid excited now, I never thought I could get this engine to start again, but thanks to everybody here, and a lot of offline help from Mr. Tris (I know he's not very popular but whatevs, he helped me out a lot), and AMileHighGT it just goes to show, with the right support group, any moron can do this with enough time and money... Really excited to send some more samples to BlackStone! Also, having to fight myself real hard on not rebuilding this thing to 400whp - luckily the bank account helps with that fight... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooph Posted July 31, 2015 Author Share Posted July 31, 2015 after initial oil flushing, all looks good, and it's obviously boosting quite well. However, looks like power steering has some serious issues... Gonna have to investigate. Gotta clean up the garage first though, it's an absolute mess! Also, how important is the turbo heat shield? I can't remember how it was removed, but it looks like I'll have to remove the turbo to put it back on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 The heat shield will fit with out removing the turbo. Us with 3" DP's have to cut the bottom off the heatshield. It's actually easy to install, I think I use 3 of the small bolts. 6mm ones, with the 10mm hex head. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 I've been running without a heat sheild for the past 4 months, it won't cause any issues besides heat soat at a stop light/sign. You'll get more of a bog when starting off the line. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooph Posted August 1, 2015 Author Share Posted August 1, 2015 Had the support bracket on backwards, now it goes on without any problems... OK, the engine is pretty much done and I'm feeling pretty confident about it. No leaks thus far. However, I can't get the damn power steering to bleed/work. I got a new pump from O'Reily's and bench tested it, it is moving fluid around just fine. Looked in the manual and it says to disconnect a vinyl hose on the gearbox. I assume by "gearbox" they mean the rack? Anybody got a picture of this to give me some idea of which hose they are talking about? In the manual they are labeled hose "C" and hose "D", but the bleeding procedure doesn't denote which one. In other news, 3 of the car's windows won't work. The driver's window works, as well as all of the locks. I looked at the wiring diagram and 3 windows are on the same circuit, and the driver's window is on it's own. About to check fuses and such, but why on earth would this be a problem? Does the main wiring harness with that massive plug above and to the side of the turbo carry those circuits? The way that plug is designed it doesn't look like you can bend a pin, but could this be a culprit - causing a short on that circuit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooph Posted August 3, 2015 Author Share Posted August 3, 2015 Turns out the power steering issue was the o-ring on the PS pump. It's all groovy now. Also adjusted the clutch pedal for a better engagement point. Now there is one issue left. When the engine gets hot (not overheating - the cooling system was burped and the gauge shows just under half way), it start to smoke. Thinking there is a small leak on the turbo banjo/oil-in bolt - those damn little copper crush washers. Once I have that figured out, the car will be back to normal and drive able. This brings me to the conclusion of this project. Although I am not a large part of this community, and I don't provide much knowledge, nor do I see myself becoming a "giving member" of this forum, I donated because the people of this community, and the knowledge base is just fantastic. So... THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!! For those that helped, for those who posted before on the threads that helped me, and those who I don't even know exist. You are all a wonderful and badass group. You saved me thousands of dollars and I will forever be grateful for that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooph Posted August 3, 2015 Author Share Posted August 3, 2015 Turns out the power steering issue was the o-ring on the PS pump. It's all groovy now. Also adjusted the clutch pedal for a better engagement point. Now there is one issue left. When the engine gets hot (not overheating - the cooling system was burped and the gauge shows just under half way), it start to smoke. Thinking there is a small leak on the turbo banjo/oil-in bolt - those damn little copper crush washers. Once I have that figured out, the car will be back to normal and drive able. This brings me to the conclusion of this project. Although I am not a large part of this community, and I don't provide much knowledge, nor do I see myself becoming a "giving member" of this forum, I donated because the people of this community, and the knowledge base is just fantastic. So... THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!! For those that helped, for those who posted before on the threads that helped me, and those who I don't even know exist. You are all a wonderful and badass group. You saved me thousands of dollars and I will forever be grateful for that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 Your welcome, that's why we are here. Make sure you get the car tuned after the break in, get it off the OEM MAP. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooph Posted August 3, 2015 Author Share Posted August 3, 2015 Working with Cryotune to set up a time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooph Posted August 14, 2015 Author Share Posted August 14, 2015 Got it tuned, and a huge shout out to Dave at Cryotune! The dude really knows his stuff! Transformed the LGT. Obviously we weren't able to make any more power with the stock car, but the throttle smoothed out wonderfully and now I don't have to worry about anything! The smog test showed a small leak, and the UV die really put the mind at ease. No leaks now! Also learned a ton! From false sensor readings, to the limitation of the stock system, to how to drive/shift better, to the pressure dynamics under the hood, and how important the undercover and various other parts are. As with most things in life, I learned enough to know that I don't know/understand nearly enough to modify this car yet, and will have to continue learning about all of the factors. However, turbo coolant sprung a leak again - gotta get a clamp for that, and the clutch went all weird. Pedal throw is about half of what it is, but it still works. The upper range is just gone. Going to pull off the TMIC this weekend and look at the slave cylinder and inspect linkages and such. When I bled it last, I couldn't get all of the air bubble out, maybe I finally dislodged a large bubble, or maybe there is a leak somewhere? Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 14, 2015 Share Posted August 14, 2015 How many miles on the clutch ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooph Posted August 14, 2015 Author Share Posted August 14, 2015 it's brand new. 400 miles or so? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 Then your thought about air bubble is most likely the issue. Did you at anytime have the slave cylinder lower then it normally sits ? Someone else did that and had issues. I made a point to keep it above. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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