AMileHighLGT Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 A rag will work fine. You find them? On the passenger side will need to have the bracket for the turbo coolant tank either removed, or others have had success bending it to make access. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMileHighLGT Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 so pulled more bits off the bottom of the engine. Photos attached. Got the report back from Blackstone: "Lead was a little high in this sample. And, to be honest, most metals were a bit elevated considering just 100 hours on the oil. Aluminum can show accelerated piston wear, iron is from steel, and copper shows brass/bronze wear. Lead is the only metal out of line enough to mark, but the other metals aren't too far behind. Averages for this engine are based on about 3,800 miles on the oil. No contamination turned up that would account for this metal. Are you looking for trouble, or just trying to get a baseline? We'd change this oil within 2,000 miles or so." I've been quiet and progress has been slow because: wedding planning. Also, I finished cracking the Audi loaner's bumper in half, so that' in my garage getting glassed right now as well. Also, my ninja has a bad ground, so trying to sort that out. Also, rebuilding some carbs for a friend in need... So, never mind the excuses. Am I the luckiest guy alive or am I too excited and not reading those stats correctly? Also, USPS lost my turbo. They say it's somewhere between here and there, but they have no idea where in the between... Too bad text doesn't transfer tone, cause this probably sounds pretty depressed and/or angry, however, I am not. Just focused and busy. Thanks to all who've helped and will continue to help! This forum rocks. Hopefully I'll be in a better place to give back in a few months. Ok. The results. Others may chime in here, as I have yet to send my samples in, I have 4 that will all go at once. The idea is pretty simple. You will want to pull a sample after 20 minutes of idle time and then at the 100 mile oil change, and send those off to Blackstone. You want to see all the metal counts that are elevated now to come back down to a normal level. If they don't, that would indicate some kind of advanced wear going on, possible due to miles and or the turbo failure, or both. That's what will determine the fate of your motor for now. Also, I would consider doing a compression test after the 20 minute idle oil change. Always good to have something to use as a baseline if you need to down the road. Pro tip, before you fire it up for the first time, besides the normal priming of the lubrication system, loosen the spark plugs, then tighten them lightly. This will ensure you don't strip the holes in the hot cylinder heads trying to loosen those plugs. Hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooph Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 Thanks for the responses, but I think I misspoke... The engine hasn't been turned on since I got home from the track weeks ago. It is still in the process of being disassembled to assess the damage. The values I posted from Blackstone are the values from the oil which was in it when the turbo blew up. If I'm reading them right those values are all within normal levels. This means the turbo didn't spew a whole bunch of metal into the engine, no? Still waiting for USPS to find my turbo so John (who is an awesome guy and a great communicator BTW) can verify how much of the turbo bearings have been destroyed. IE - from everything I've seen, there is very little metal in the oil and in the engine, no more than would be through regular wear, which means simply replacing the turbo and most of the oiling system should be enough, and shouldn't result in me needing a new short block and an engine build all that soon. To say it another way, the engine isn't any worse off currently than it would be with normal wear. Or am I reading the number from Blackstone very incorrectly? Next up will be the oil cooler and OCV's to inspect those, and the banjo filter removal, to inspect those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMileHighLGT Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 I understand this is your blow up oil analysis. I'm saying you should do the same at the next two oil changes just to make sure. Those should improve some Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooph Posted April 30, 2015 Author Share Posted April 30, 2015 ah yes, already got the kits from Blackstone... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooph Posted May 1, 2015 Author Share Posted May 1, 2015 Something else that has been bugging me - I have no record of the clutch being replaced. I'm at 142K. Is it even possible for a stock clutch to go this long? Should I replace it with so much of the engine already disassembled? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted May 1, 2015 Share Posted May 1, 2015 Also, been searching but my head is spinning, so please help me find this info: Questions: 1.) anybody got a link for front badge removal? I want to plastidip the chrome on the grill while it's off the car, and modify the badge with an autobot replacement. Want to do it to the back as well, but that will come later. One thing at a time. 2.) link to OCV location/replacement. Added to list of things to do: - de-cat uppipe 1) Badge removal: The badge is held on with double sided sticky tape, can be popped off with a small flat head screwdriver 2) OCV's are located on top of the valve covers toward the front. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMileHighLGT Posted May 2, 2015 Share Posted May 2, 2015 Clutch is up to you dude. I subscribe to the 'while you're in there policy'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 Unless the clutch is new I'd take the opportunity to replace it, inspect the trans snout, and replace the Throwout bearings that are prone to die early. At 142k my car is on its third clutch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooph Posted May 4, 2015 Author Share Posted May 4, 2015 Sweet, thanks guys, the clutch will go on the list as well then... Attached some pics of the crank pulley, as I've heard the stock one may be a bit weak and maybe I should upgrade to aftermarket? It seems to be in really good condition though, so maybe not? Also pics of the power steering pump, which seems to have developed a rather intense leak, so a rebuild kit for it will be on the way... Experiencing some serious issues to get the intake manifold off. Not sure how to do it without disconnection the fuel lines, and not familiar with those connectors at all, so, gonna take some time to get that off, so I can get the turbo inlet out. Want to look at the turbo side, the walls looked squished and pretty thin going onto the turbo, so, might as well replace that too.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooph Posted May 4, 2015 Author Share Posted May 4, 2015 Also, removing the cam pulley's got me worried, so I can get to the driver's side banjo bolt to remove the filter... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMileHighLGT Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 That's not the worrisome part. You need to take the cam bolts out to remove/replace that rear cover 2 inch hole saw will make access easier. Use a body plug to fill the hole after. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 An impact wrench will that that cam bolt off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 Have you actually removed any of our factory cam bolts before? 6 times, why? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSpeed Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 Hmm, weird, I just took 4 off the other day. I have a good impact wrench and didn't even hold the cam in place. A crappy impact won't do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooph Posted May 18, 2015 Author Share Posted May 18, 2015 So, finally got the cam pulley's off by hammering the bolts with an pneumatic impact gun. Did the bottom pulley with a rather interesting set of extensions and a wobbly bit. Broke the 10mm allen socket... But I got the banjo bolt filter out, and good thing too... Can't get any light through either one, so they are filthy! Now on to the easy stuff, removing the oil pump, water pump and OCV's. new parts are on their way... I might get this done before the wedding after all... Maybe not.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 sub'd for fun My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooph Posted May 18, 2015 Author Share Posted May 18, 2015 @AMileHighLGT or @SSpeed either of you guys, or somebody else in the Denver area have the cam pulley tools I may borrow when it comes time to put the timing belt back on? I can offer collateral and payment. I really don't want to buy them as I won't be needing them for at least another 70K miles after this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 There are 2 banjo filters? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooph Posted May 20, 2015 Author Share Posted May 20, 2015 There are 2 banjo filters? Erm... yes. One at the turbo, and the other on the front of the engine on the driver's side. The one on the front is a total PITA. I would think unless you've had a turbo failure, or are doing a timing belt, in either case you'll have front of the engine disassembled regardless, there is no point to remove front banjo bolt... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooph Posted May 20, 2015 Author Share Posted May 20, 2015 SO, just to confirm... I don't need to replace the oil pump. I can just clean it and replace the seal? That'll save me some money... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooph Posted June 22, 2015 Author Share Posted June 22, 2015 http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/22/33e5d28e03085aa97fe54fd7451ae764.jpg You guys think the up pipe is clean enough? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 Damn, did you polish that? My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 I'm impressed! My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooph Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 Nope, just used an abrasive rotary stone. Wore down the stone almost completely making sure there is nothing that's going to detach and hurt the turbo. Next up will be a pressure washer to knock loose any debris/dust followed by a compressed air drying and a WD40 storage coating with tape on either end and O2 sensor threads to make sure it stays nice and clean... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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