DeltaNu1142 Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 I don't think there's a single reason why, all else being equal, a properly-tuned stage 2 car shouldn't last just as long as a stock car. Tits mcgee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 I don't think there's a single reason why, all else being equal, a properly-tuned stage 2 car shouldn't last just as long as a stock car. Yeah, but, stage 2 at over 100k is just . . . irresponsible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Yeah, but, stage 2 at over 100k is just . . . irresponsible. What about Stg 2 @ 100k with plans to rebuild? Or just wait, rebuild, then Stg 2? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 What about Stg 2 @ 100k with plans to rebuild? Or just wait, rebuild, then Stg 2? As long as you're prepared, both mentally, and financially for what WILL occur down the road, there's no harm in it, for sure. But thinking that it'll go another 100k and push more power than the last 100k isn't very smart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeltaNu1142 Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Yeah, but, stage 2 at over 100k is just . . . irresponsible. I think stage 2 above 100k is like... smoking your first joint at 65. Why not? What are you going to hurt? Stage 3 above 100k is like mainlining meth at, alright, any age. You've pretty much decided you're on your way out anyway, so why crawl towards death when you can shoot yourself out of a cannon straight at the grim reaper. Tits mcgee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 I think stage 2 above 100k is like... smoking your first joint at 65. Why not? What are you going to hurt? Stage 3 above 100k is like mainlining meth at, alright, any age. You've pretty much decided you're on your way out anyway, so why crawl towards death when you can shoot yourself out of a cannon straight at the grim reaper. *slow clap* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJr Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Great analogy, love it! I was going to go stage2 @80k bought gaskets, STi UP, catted DP, even had it ceramic coated, was ready to go, kept reading on what could happen ( no Mr Tris though) changed my mind and went stage1 with the STi UP. I'm happy, yes it could be faster! If and when I need a NSB I will go stage2, then I'll have to decide if I should use forged pistons or not LOL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Great analogy, love it! I was going to go stage2 @80k bought gaskets, STi UP, catted DP, even had it ceramic coated, was ready to go, kept reading on what could happen ( no Mr Tris though) changed my mind and went stage1 with the STi UP. I'm happy, yes it could be faster! If and when I need a NSB I will go stage2, then I'll have to decide if I should use forged pistons or not LOL. If you have to ask if you need forged pistons, you probably don't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 As long as you're prepared, both mentally, and financially for what WILL occur down the road, there's no harm in it, for sure. But thinking that it'll go another 100k and push more power than the last 100k isn't very smart. Was just a general inquiry. I'm only at 85k and have a much shorter commute now, so miles won't be going up very quickly. I'm working on my maintenance items to prep for a Stg 2 in the future. Also no kids, no debt, so wallet can handle it. Mentally, that's where the ol' medical card comes in haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 You mean the one you don't need now, since you reside in a recreational state (like all three states on the Westcoast) ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 You mean the one you don't need now, since you reside in a recreational state (like all three states on the Westcoast) ? Not in CA yet! Still need it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 @OP - I went stage 2 a couple months ago at around 105k. Car is broke now. I am in the #ynansb club at 120k. Engine will be torn into tomorrow and I'll be able to find out what went wrong. I didn't actually have any symptoms that let me know there was an issue (except 1 check engine light on a very cold morning). So it's possible I went stage 2 with an existing issue. I was hoping I had another year or two before I joined that club. Also getting married this year, congratulations! My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 @OP - I went stage 2 a couple months ago at around 105k. Car is broke now. I am in the #ynansb club at 120k. Engine will be torn into tomorrow and I'll be able to find out what went wrong. I didn't actually have any symptoms that let me know there was an issue (except 1 check engine light on a very cold morning). So it's possible I went stage 2 with an existing issue. I was hoping I had another year or two before I joined that club. Also getting married this year, congratulations! Mazel tov! Are you registered at Heuberger Subaru? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Was just a general inquiry. I'm only at 85k and have a much shorter commute now, so miles won't be going up very quickly. I'm working on my maintenance items to prep for a Stg 2 in the future. Also no kids, no debt, so wallet can handle it. Mentally, that's where the ol' medical card comes in haha Life happens, I had 2 kids and many lawyers to help me see them between the time the engine went and now. Best bet is read Tris shopping list and add $1000 or so to what you need to set aside right now. My biggest mistake was joining this forum back in 07 and whacking off in the OT section ignoring threads that could have saved me from damaging the engine in the 1st place. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoyceWare Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 I think stage 2 above 100k is like... smoking your first joint at 65. Why not? What are you going to hurt? Stage 3 above 100k is like mainlining meth at, alright, any age. You've pretty much decided you're on your way out anyway, so why crawl towards death when you can shoot yourself out of a cannon straight at the grim reaper. BTW I'm in the process of going 3.5 with 104k on the ODO. If the motor blows I'll replace it, but until then I'm gonna give it a shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sk8erOrd Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 This thread plus the turbo failure wiki have me rethinking ever going stage 2. I'm at 140k on stage 1, and everything seems to be doing well. I have very little oil consumption (less than 1 quart per 3k, I check it religiously), timing belt/wp have been done, and the banjo filter is gone. So now I'm just thinking what else I need to do to make this last another ~60k. I now know I need to pull off the DP an check for shaft play. I'm going to replace the UP with a catless one. Anything else I should be doing? My "fun" will be limited now to a good CBE for sound, and replacing the stereo. If I replace the turbo, is a rebuilt VF40 the most reliable? I'm good with stage 1 power levels, but wondering if a VF52 or 16g would be more reliable if tuned conservatively. I just don't know which is the most "reliable" turbo. Starting to think about preemptively replacing the turbo. 2015 Mustang Ecoboost Premium w/ PP (6MT) 2006 LGT Ltd 5MT OBP Cobb Short Throw Shifter | GS Catless Up Pipe Gone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sk8erOrd Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Good stuff here. Economy isn't a mode on the AP, it's an entirely different map. Its not a clickable switch or selectable option; you have to stop the car, get out, connect the green test connectors, flash the economy map, (wait for it, not a fast thing) and then start the car and wait for it to relearn the new params... So, yes, it's an option, just don't expect it to be convenient. This is inaccurate - you can realtime map flash the economy map over the base stage 1 map. You only need to stop, connect test mode, and wait a long time to flash a new base map. That's how my AP works, and how it worked on my previous 2 WRXs. 2015 Mustang Ecoboost Premium w/ PP (6MT) 2006 LGT Ltd 5MT OBP Cobb Short Throw Shifter | GS Catless Up Pipe Gone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeltaNu1142 Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 BTW I'm in the process of going 3.5 with 104k on the ODO. If the motor blows I'll replace it, but until then I'm gonna give it a shot. The analogy holds. Tits mcgee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoyceWare Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 I seriously thought about dropping in a new motor before hand but I'm only going with 16G, injectors and pump. Not looking for huge power and I don't like driving around with a 100k turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 This is inaccurate - you can realtime map flash the economy map over the base stage 1 map. You only need to stop, connect test mode, and wait a long time to flash a new base map. That's how my AP works, and how it worked on my previous 2 WRXs. If you're saying it somehow just applies "economy" params to the whatever current realtime map is present, you're wrong. It's an entirely different map. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sk8erOrd Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2131623 From the manual (https://cobb.box.com/ap-sub-usermanual) " Realtime: The AccessPORT can upload a calibration for immediate use. The calibration will remain in the ECU until the ECU loses power or is reset. Reflash: Permanent reflash of the calibration onto the ECU. The AccessPORT will request for the vehicle to be placed in ECU reprogramming mode. Follow the onscreen prompts to complete this step" 2015 Mustang Ecoboost Premium w/ PP (6MT) 2006 LGT Ltd 5MT OBP Cobb Short Throw Shifter | GS Catless Up Pipe Gone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 This thread plus the turbo failure wiki have me rethinking ever going stage 2. I'm at 140k on stage 1, and everything seems to be doing well. I have very little oil consumption (less than 1 quart per 3k, I check it religiously), timing belt/wp have been done, and the banjo filter is gone. So now I'm just thinking what else I need to do to make this last another ~60k. I now know I need to pull off the DP an check for shaft play. I'm going to replace the UP with a catless one. Anything else I should be doing? My "fun" will be limited now to a good CBE for sound, and replacing the stereo. If I replace the turbo, is a rebuilt VF40 the most reliable? I'm good with stage 1 power levels, but wondering if a VF52 or 16g would be more reliable if tuned conservatively. I just don't know which is the most "reliable" turbo. Starting to think about preemptively replacing the turbo. Reliability is out the window if Banjo bolt filters are still in place and clogged. Any turbo attached will fail and #YNANSB will be a major part of the immediate remedy. I'm going rebuilt 46 route as it lets me stay with stock fuel setup and from what I was told the best DD option for my goals than going bigger turbo setup. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBXTbyrequest Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 To speak to an earlier comment. I'm driving an 05' OBXT with 122K on the clock, and am currently experiencing TMIC end tank separation on a stock tune with everything stock (except the timing belt). YMMV, but I don't know if I'd pass up the Bullet Proof mod if you've got the cash for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeltaNu1142 Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 Good to know. I hadn't heard of that at stock boost levels. Tits mcgee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leviman Posted February 16, 2015 Share Posted February 16, 2015 I've talked to guys who theorize that the intercooler issue comes from the brackets pulling on it rather than boost pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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