MBrennan Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 08 LGT auto w/ 110k. Found #4 to have a burnt valve. Both exhaust valves are being replaced on the #4 cylinder and the seats ground. The machine shop apparently is saying that all of the other valves and seats are good and do not require a regrind. They will be lapping all of the valves and setting the lash and hopefully getting the heads back to the shop mid week. My question is where the machine shop still has the heads that I was thinking there was another cylinder that is particularly hard on the exhaust valves? The shop has 2 additional new exhaust valves that I was thinking id have them stick into the other "problematic" cylinder? Maybe its a waste of money and the garage thinks im crazy but I probably will not be keeping this car and DO NOT want to sell someone something with any existing problems or something that has had a Band-Aid repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 The machine shop knows what they are doing. Use that money for ARP head studs. Then get the car off the factory tune. Once again it's proven it will cause burnt valves. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 The machine shop knows what they are doing. Use that money for ARP head studs. Then get the car off the factory tune. Once again it's proven it will cause burnt valves. Best advice ever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxman Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 If you've got a shop telling you that you don't need the work when they could easily tell you that you do and you wouldn't know the difference...you need to trust them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Yes, remember, they make money by doing more work. If they say you don't need more work, stop worrying. Get the ARP head studs. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBrennan Posted January 7, 2015 Author Share Posted January 7, 2015 I ordered "regular" head bolts about a month ago when the repair facility started the engine removal. I do not have any attention on modding this other then getting it off of the stock tune. Does a stock car warrant the ARP studs? I plan on buying an AP and getting a tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 I ordered "regular" head bolts about a month ago when the repair facility started the engine removal. I do not have any attention on modding this other then getting it off of the stock tune. Does a stock car warrant the ARP studs? I plan on buying an AP and getting a tune. Not necessarily, however, studs are (almost) always superior to bolts, and in this particular application, due to the higher propensity for HG failure, the ARP studs are cheap (~$180) insurance. Do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 You should be able to return the head bolts to the dealer. With the back ground of these engines, not doing ARP studs is like beating your head against the wall for no reason. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianEarlSpilner Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Get the ARP studs. Ease of install over the Subaru head bolt torque sequence makes them worth the price of admission. I just reassembled my motor and if I had to tear it down over a $180 decision... ARP-torque to spec in 3 steps Subaru-torque down, back off, torque it again, wait for the moons orbit to apex, sacrifice 1st child, retorque one last time Although I see you don't plan on keeping the car so its a judgment call. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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