Just another misfire/rough idle thread...

[StkmltS]

Part of the rubber seal around my windshield has separated from the windshield, about 8" of seal right at the passenger side of the dash. If I'm not mistaken that's right about where the body integrated unit (BIU) is deep behind the glove box. The day my car died it had been raining pretty hard, so that fits the problem somewhat.

 

It almost sounds easier to remove the windshield to investigate vs trying to get to the BIU from inside the car.

 

 

• From an email with a COBB support person yesterday: "We actually don't perform ECU recovery services anymore unless the issue arose during the use of an Accessport. Our repair tech's simply don't have the time to be handling the influx of non Accessport related failures, etc."
  

Hopefully my ECU isn't fried.

[heiche]

I don't know much/anything about the BIU, but I wonder if it being exposed to water might explain more than one problem with your car? (although you've had more than enough of them!)

[StkmltS]

I don't know much/anything about the BIU, but I wonder if it being exposed to water might explain more than one problem with your car? (although you've had more than enough of them!)

 

My biggest complaint about the ER-HC error code is that it's so vague. It could be anything that has to do with the high speed CAN system. Mice chomping on a wire, a disconnected plug, a damaged ECM/BIU, basically anything that connects to the ECM.

 

From what I've read, if the BIU is damaged it could definitely cause the ER-HC error. It would also explain why the car occasionally started to flicker off/on/off/on when driving... holy water leakage Batman, that could be it!

 

My car is on the airbag recall list. So I'm thinking that I rip the dash apart to diagnose the BIU as the problem, replace/fix the unit, and then leave the dash in my garage and drive/tow the car to the dealership for the airbag recall work. Apparently replacing the BIU requires a trip to the dealership to reprogram the immobilizer, so if that needs done I'll try to horse-trade free reprogramming for me doing so much of the airbag recall work for them.

 

I still haven't fixed my leaky gas tank. I guess the gas level leaked it's way lower than the seal, so it's temporarily not leaking fuel. It's way too cold and I'm subconsciously terrified that if I touch the car something else will break.

 

Good news! I'm almost finished with my (re)build list. It's looking like rebuilding will be cheaper and better #becauseRaceCar. Even after buying all of the tools to do everything myself (correctly) it'll be cheaper than getting a new SB. As soon as my tax return check shows up I'm going to post a WTB thread and send out a few RFQs to some of the vendors on here. People who've helped me out in this thread will get first dibs on selling me any goodies from my list that may be collecting dust in a garage somewhere.

 

On a side note: Apparently the warranty that comes with a new SB only applies if a certified shop installs it.

[heiche]

I guess the BIU isn't that hard to access. It's located underneath the steering column, but if that's true I don't think water leakage on the passenger side could get to it. I found this pic. Another post describes the process of removing it (and then they go on to take it apart...) - still has some good info though.

 

In any event, yeah water leakage onto electronics could certainly cause issues.

[StkmltS]

It's official: my wife approve the rebuild. Her only stipulation is "if it doesn't work this time then you have to sell the car". In her eyes the past year+ (everything in this thread) counts as my first attempt to fix the problem, and rebuilding the motor will count as my second attempt. That's a silly argument, but she's a girl so I let it slide

 

Her disclaimer just bumped up the project's budget by about $1k because now I can't skip over (postpone) anything that's nearing the end of its life. If it's almost broke, fix it.

 

My only really difficult decision now is whether I should take the easy route and buy a new SB, or have the adventure of a lifetime rebuilding the one I have. I know what I want to do but I'm not sure if its the wisest choice. Baby #4 is due mid-May so that complicates things a bit.

[heiche]

Cool and congrats on the approval!

 

Having done both a "rebuild" (really just rings, seals, etc) on the stock block and later replacing the SB with a new one, my vote would be for the new SB. It really doesn't make the experience that much different.

 

It's just that with so many miles your cylinders will be worn in places. I still had the factory crosshatch towards the top of the bores so I thought cool! But then looking further down the bore, it was very smooth and shiny (worn). The pistons were pretty tired. And the bearings had a lot of miles on them. All of this adds up to a pretty tired SB. For me it made sense to get a new SB - not sure if it makes the same sense in your case, but it's something to think about anyway. Also be sure to get a new oil pump either way (new SB doesn't include one).

[StkmltS]

I've read conflicting info on replacing the oil pump. I seem to remember Max Capacity saying somewhere that just a thorough cleaning would be sufficient. I'll research deeper. If I get a new pump I know to not go larger than the stock size.

 

Here's how I'm looking at my options:

 

1) New SB from Subaru + refresh the heads @ TiC + goodies.

There's only one reputable Subaru shop near me, Turn in Concepts. To rebuild my heads they quoted me $850, excluding valves and setting valve lash. No doubt they very much know what they're doing, but that's way too high to not include valves, buckets, or head studs.

- Estimated total cost: $5060 (including $500 buffer).

- Pros: Relatively simple project, high quality head work, TiC warranty (I think).

- Cons: Expensive, no extra $ a JMP-vf40 or an etune.

 

2) New SB from TiC + refresh the heads + goodies.

TiC quoted me "roughly" $4k for a new SB and the head work, including setting valve lash. Their quote assumes me removing and installing the motor.

- Estimated total cost: $5403 (including $500 buffer).

- Pros: Very easy, no worries.

- Cons: Expensive, no fun, no extra $ a JMP-vf40 or an etune.

 

3) Rebuilt SB (diy) + refresh the heads (diy) + goodies + etune.

SB: Deck the case halves if needed, hone cylinders, new pistons, rings, main bearings, rod bearings, ARP head studs, new gaskets.

Heads: Deck heads, replace all valves, new buckets as needed, full upper gasket kit.

Tools & gauges: everything required to properly do the above work.

- Estimated total cost: $3850 (assuming full retail prices, including $500 buffer).

- Pros: Affordable, fun learning experience, some cool new tools, a custom tune, room for a JMP-vf40.

- Cons: Opportunity to go waaaaaaaaaay over budget and blow my motor because I'm stupid.

 

4) New SB from Subaru + refresh the heads (diy) + goodies.

SB: new and assembled.

Heads: same as option #3.

- Estimated total cost: $4484 (including $500 buffer).

- Pros: Safer than rebuilding the SB myself, possible enough $ for a JMP-vf40.

- Cons: Not much less than option #1.

 

Now before I get jumped in a dark alley for even thinking about options #3 & 4, hear me out.

I'm a project engineer at an aerospace manufacturing company, and I've been in the industry for 14 years. I started out running the dirtiest, most undesirable machines, and I worked my way around the shop to where I'm at now. I know the importance of holding tolerances, and I know when and how to use all of the gauges for this project. I'd be purchasing a machinist's straightedge, micrometers, and a bore gauge. My calibration department at work would calibrate the gauges for me. The crosshatching is still visible in my cylinders, so a light hone should be sufficient. Replacing all valves would offset most (if any) of the wear that may be in the valve guides. Replacing the main and crank bearings will offset most (if any) of the wear on the crank and rods. I have access to a pressure washer, a large ultrasonic cleaner, and a bead-blast booth. If decking the heads proves to be too challenging I'll submit to conventional wisdom and take them to a machine shop.

[heiche]

Sounds like you have plenty of skills and resources. There's definitely nothing wrong with going with plan #3 - makes for quite a learning experience. And you get that nice feeling when you're driving down the road that you had every nut and bolt apart and it's running great. Plenty of folks here to help as well if you need any advice. What surprised me the most is the sheer volume of parts spread across my garage floor - in order of disassembly of course!

 

I'm definitely in for pics, to see if there was any damage to the pistons, valves, or if it was another mysterious gremlin in there.

[StkmltS]

Thanks for the vote of confidence.

I'm somewhat skeptical of the diy head decking and cylinder honing, but if it doesn't work I'd only be out the $75 for the ball hone and sandpaper.

[heiche]

You'll probably find that decking most likely will not be required. But please do use a bore gauge to mic the cylinders at various places to see if there is too much wear, especially towards the bottom of piston travel.

[Rhody]

I have been watching this thread for awhile and felt I needed to finally become part of the community. It seems like you have a good plan(s) in place. I had a misfire in cylinder 2 on my 05 LGT sedan but after cleaning the MAF, switching around ignition coils, and switching around injectors the misfire has cleared up and my idle is much better. Man those injectors can be a pain to get back in. Also did a compression check and got 145-140 on all cylinders - so worn but equal.

 

I am fairly certain I have a spun bearing as my car knocks above 2700 rpm so will most likely be doing an engine rebuild in the near future. Don't think it is the TB tensioner or valves but I hope so.

 

If you haven't checked out Jafromobile, Ratchets and Wrenches, and CareyHolzman on Youtube, they seem like excellent engine rebuild resources. I say seem because I have never rebuilt an engine before. Jafro is DSM vehicles but goes through engine measuring/rebuilding better than anyone else I have come across. CH and R&W are good for breaking down the engine and putting it back together.

 

I would like to compare engine rebuild lists when you get a chance. Good luck!

[StkmltS]

I have been watching this thread for awhile and felt I needed to finally become part of the community. It seems like you have a good plan(s) in place. I had a misfire in cylinder 2 on my 05 LGT sedan but after cleaning the MAF, switching around ignition coils, and switching around injectors the misfire has cleared up and my idle is much better. Man those injectors can be a pain to get back in. Also did a compression check and got 145-140 on all cylinders - so worn but equal.

 

I am fairly certain I have a spun bearing as my car knocks above 2700 rpm so will most likely be doing an engine rebuild in the near future. Don't think it is the TB tensioner or valves but I hope so.

 

If you haven't checked out Jafromobile, Ratchets and Wrenches, and CareyHolzman on Youtube, they seem like excellent engine rebuild resources. I say seem because I have never rebuilt an engine before. Jafro is DSM vehicles but goes through engine measuring/rebuilding better than anyone else I have come across. CH and R&W are good for breaking down the engine and putting it back together.

 

I would like to compare engine rebuild lists when you get a chance. Good luck!

Welcome to the LGT club and thanks for chiming in! Hopefully your problem is something easier/cheaper than a spun bearing. Have you had your oil analyzed? If you have metal in your oil from a spun bearing an oil analysis would definitely let you know.

 

I stumbled on Jafromobile's channel a few days ago and he's definitely got some good stuff on there. Even though he mostly works on DSM motors almost everything he does still applies to Subarus and motors in general. His channel is one of the more helpful ones that I've seen so far. I'll look up the other channels you mentioned.

 

Send me a PM with your email address and I'll be happy to send you my spreadsheet. I'm not quite finished with it yet but I think I have all of the critical pieces covered. Most of what's left is just personal preference stuff, like race vs. standard bearings, or to get forged pistons or not. If you're close to the Cincinnati/Northern KY area I'll even "let" you come over and watch what's certainly going to be a story my family never lets me forget

 

FWIW if I had a spun bearing I'd probably just get a new short block.

Edited January 25, 2016 by StkmltS

[StkmltS]

So I haven't been able to snake a siphon tube all the way down into the gas tank yet. I can get it most of the way, but the last bit puts up quite a fight. I suspect there's some kind of safety device blocking my endeavors. Dang you National Highway Traffic Safety Administration!

 

I'm tired of looking at the beautiful piece of Subaru junk blocking my driveway. I want the gas leak fixed, now, and I want the car in my garage so I can start dealing with the ER HC error that's kept me from driving the car for almost a month.

 

Right now it sounds like a good idea to just disconnect one of the fuel lines in the engine bay, turn the key to get the fuel pump going, and have the fuel pump do all of the work for me. Other than the obvious "ahh there's gas everywhere!!!" situation it sounds safe. Any objections? Stay tuned for my version of the "freak gasoline fight accident" scene from Zoolander.

Edited January 26, 2016 by StkmltS

[heiche]

Sure, the safety of that plan must be a concern, but assuming you've got that handled One issue is that if you simply turn the key to "on" without starting the engine it only primes the pump for a couple of seconds. Another option might be taking off the return hose from the regulator that normally would "return" fuel back to the tank and extend that into a gas can - then you could actually start the car and let it pump as long as it needs to before switching the key back off.

[StkmltS]

Feel free to stop by and get the car started for me

[heiche]

hah! good point.

[Rhody]

Not an expert, but it looks like you could use this technique: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WfEFA_sVIt8. It involves bypassing the fuel pump relay with a wire and your car doesn't have to start.

[StkmltS]

It's alive!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I disconnected the grounding bracket from the driver side TGV, hooked up a jumper cable to it, and connected the other end to a bolt near the alternator. It started right up without any hesitation. There is NOTHING more satisfying than a $0 fix! Amen, Hallelujah, and praise the Lord.

 

This should also solve the weird off/on/off/on thing it was doing a few days before it died a month ago.

 

Fhew, now that I've got that out of the way I can rest easy knowing my upcoming build doesn't need to include an ECU.

 

 

Sent from inner space.

[StkmltS]

I cleaned off the paint on the TGV (good thing I did like 20 coats) where the grounding bracket attaches and tightened everything back down. Somehow the bolt holding the grounding bracket to the TGV was bottoming out. When I put everything back together last time (for TGV delete) I must have swapped that bolt with another one from somewhere else. A couple washers later and the bracket is as tight as new and the problem is solved.

 

I can't wait to drive it again, but I didn't even take it out of my driveway yet. Tomorrow after church I'm gonna give her a good wash and a nice thorough interior cleaning. After she's all dressed up and pretty I'll probably roll down the windows and take a slow cruise through the mall parking lot. You know, 'cause I can now.

 

In conclusion:

It is 100% true that the ER-HC code can sometimes be caused by a bad ground connection.

Edited January 31, 2016 by StkmltS

[Rhody]

Congrats on finding your electrical gremlin. I hope you have had a chance to take your baby for a spin. I will be sending my list over shortly. It is amusing that the list keeps getting longer and longer:spin:. Just added the water bypass pipe to the list.

[StkmltS]

Congrats on finding your electrical gremlin. I hope you have had a chance to take your baby for a spin. I will be sending my list over shortly. It is amusing that the list keeps getting longer and longer:spin:. Just added the water bypass pipe to the list.

I've been driving it all week and loving every minute.

 

No joke about the parts list continuously growing. Every time I open my spreadsheet I find more things to add. I doesn't help that I keep thinking about how much fun it would be to add horsepower... the all-powerful #becauseRacecar bug is biting hard!

[heiche]

Thinking of making a build thread?

[StkmltS]

Thinking of making a build thread?

For sheezy.

 

Once I'm ready to start spending money I'm also going to put up a WTB thread for everything I can get away with buying from people on here. This site has been such a huge help and want to support the people and vendors who make it all possible. There's no way I'd attempt to rebuild the motor myself if it weren't for all of the build threads on here.

 

I'm not going to start the threads until I'm ready to start spending money. I don't think I could handle the pressure.

[StkmltS]

Teaser (worthless) update...

 

Since fixing my grounding issue the car has driven fine other than the misfire. A few days ago I even found the balls to do a WOT 3rd gear pull to redline

 

My DD ran out of gas a couple weeks ago and I haven't been able to get it started since, so the LGT has been getting more road time than usual.

[StkmltS]

My car rolled over 106k miles recently and there's been no noticeable change in misfires. I haven't rescaled my MAF table since deleting my TGV's but my LVs are pretty consistently around ± 5-6%.

 

This weekend I'm due for an oil change and so far I've consumed about 1.5 quarts over about 3.5k miles... so there's a little bit of evidence to chew on.

 

I'm going to purchase/install a WBO2 and oil pressure sensor soon so I know they're working properly before I need them post-rebuild.

 

My DD is still down so I'm putting off the rebuild until after the baby comes in mid-May because I don't want to leave my preggo wife + 3 little kids at home without transportation. I'll probably start my build thread in a few weeks to get advice prior to spending wads of cash.