rapture Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 what if you have the gt spec tie rod ends / would they work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted December 5, 2014 Author Share Posted December 5, 2014 The outer tie rod ends are interchangable between the LGT and STI, and thus the KCA313 or GTSpec outer tie rods should work fine. They use an M14x1.5 thread. It's the threads where the inner tie rod attaches to the gearbox that are different. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rapture Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 gotcha yeah i thought that after that post lol man i would love to swap that rack on my lgt tho thanks for this thread btw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ragman Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 could you machine down the inside end of the outer tie rod so it sits in further, closer to the rack? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted December 5, 2014 Author Share Posted December 5, 2014 (edited) You would actually cut the end of the inner tie rod and use a thinner jam nut to pick up a little bit of inward adjustment. You can get about 4mm using that method. Beyond that you would need to turn & thread the inner tie rod to get some more thread, or cut the outer tie rod like you suggested. Just cutting the outer tie rod won't buy you anything since the outer rod will "bottom out" on the male threads of the inner tie rods. I'm going to start with just cutting 4mm off the end of the inner tie rods and using the thinner nut. That should be plenty to get me zero toe with a little bit of adjustment in case the rack is off a couple splines from dead center. Edited December 5, 2014 by Underdog The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted December 8, 2014 Author Share Posted December 8, 2014 (edited) Over the weekend I trimmed the inner tie rods by ~6-8mm (3-4 threads). I also picked up some stainless M14x1.5 thin jam nuts which are 7mm tall, versus the stock ones which are 11mm tall. Went to my local dealer to get the P/Ns for the lock washer and boot band today. Using a VIN from a '15 STI on the lot we looked them up, and also confirmed the correct rack P/N. Here they are: 2015 STI Inner Tie Rod Lock Washer (called "Plate Tie Rod") - 34168FG000 2015 STI Inner Boot Band - 34128AG000 I did a reverse search on the lock washer using my catalog, and it appears the '08-'10 (and up to '14 ostensibly) STI used the same lock washer, which would imply they have the same M20x1.5 inner stub thread. According to cars101.com, the '08+ STI track width is 60.2" while the BP/BL LGT is 58.9", so the inner tie rods will not be a drop-in solution. The '08-'10 WRX does not use the same lock washer as the STI, so I would guess it uses a smaller stub thread size. Again, the '10+ WRX is probably the same but I only want to state what the my catalog says, which only goes up to '10 MY. Edited December 8, 2014 by Underdog The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted December 11, 2014 Author Share Posted December 11, 2014 FWIW I stopped by the dealer the other day to check out 34160AE000 which is listed as the '08+ Impreza/WRX and '10+ Legacy inner tie rod, and it will not work either on account of the M16 inner stub thread. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camber Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 hmm - curious about the VDC. Hopefully someone else who actually knows what they are doing will tackle that piece and I can just copy them. I'm with you! I actually looked into the q rack solution back in the day but they didn't recommend it for VDC equipped cars because they couldn't get it to work with VDC. Time to look into the STI roll connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted December 18, 2014 Author Share Posted December 18, 2014 I'll be happy to work with anyone on the VDC issue - just email me at the address in my sig. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doobaruGT Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 Turns out my rack failed inspection :-/ looks like I'm venturing down this path sooner than expected. It's both invigorating and slightly terrifying. Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidrk881 Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 Would the STI solid U Joint be a direct replacement for the Legacy Gt's even if you weren't replacing the rack? I would think that would be a big improvement by its self to start off with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted December 30, 2014 Author Share Posted December 30, 2014 Yes it will swap in but it isn't cheap and I don't think the improvement will be worth the cost. Steering rack bushings are much less expensive and are known to make a noticeable, if subtle, improvement. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doobaruGT Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Doing this swap on Saturday. I'll be posting video/pictures relating to the install to hopefully add to Underdog's already thorough notes. I may not post immediately as I'm doing the crank/cam/oil cooler seals and timing belt/WP at the same time. Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regardie Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 (edited) Over the weekend I trimmed the inner tie rods by ~6-8mm (3-4 threads). I also picked up some stainless M14x1.5 thin jam nuts which are 7mm tall, versus the stock ones which are 11mm tall. Went to my local dealer to get the P/Ns for the lock washer and boot band today. Using a VIN from a '15 STI on the lot we looked them up, and also confirmed the correct rack P/N. Here they are: 2015 STI Inner Tie Rod Lock Washer (called "Plate Tie Rod") - 34168FG000 2015 STI Inner Boot Band - 34128AG000 I did a reverse search on the lock washer using my catalog, and it appears the '08-'10 (and up to '14 ostensibly) STI used the same lock washer, which would imply they have the same M20x1.5 inner stub thread. According to cars101.com, the '08+ STI track width is 60.2" while the BP/BL LGT is 58.9", so the inner tie rods will not be a drop-in solution. The '08-'10 WRX does not use the same lock washer as the STI, so I would guess it uses a smaller stub thread size. Again, the '10+ WRX is probably the same but I only want to state what the my catalog says, which only goes up to '10 MY. What about the inner tie rod from the 04-08 STi? Can you get the inner size for that? Maybe that is also M20 and a little shorter. Track width of 04 STi 58.7" from cars101.com and the part numbers for inner tie rods are 34160AE000, 34160AE001, and 34160AE010 from Opposedforces.com. Rock Auto gets me a replacement Raybestos part that is M20x1.5 rack end and M14x1.5 outer end. Edited January 8, 2015 by Regardie Added some more information Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 (edited) The '05-'07 STI inner tie rod (P/N 34160AE000 which supersedes 34160AE001) is common with the '08+ WRX, which I measured and confirmed is an M16 stub thread. It's possible you could use an M16/M20 adapter insert but trimming the tie rod is less expensive, and safer in my opinion. 34160AE010 (-'04 STI) is the only P/N I haven't ordered and confirmed. Will do so next time I am picking up parts. Edited January 8, 2015 by Underdog The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regardie Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 The '05-'07 STI inner tie rod (P/N 34160AE000 which supersedes 34160AE001) is common with the '08+ WRX, which I measured and confirmed is an M16 stub thread. It's possible you could use an M16/M20 adapter insert but trimming the tie rod is less expensive, and safer in my opinion. 34160AE010 (-'04 STI) is the only P/N I haven't ordered and confirmed. Will do so next time I am picking up parts. Oddly enough, now I can't find that Raybestos part that I saw. I am finding it difficult to pin down the size as I have seen M14 and M16 both listed as the inner size of that part. Are the sockets swappable? I have never tried to take one apart. I haven't found the track width for my 2000 BE yet so I know I will have some work to do if I try to make this swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 Good question - I have not disassembled the rack internals. Can't see why one would pursue a "bolt in" solution that far when modifying the '15 STI tie rods is much less intrusive, but I'm all for the discussion/discovery. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regardie Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Good question - I have not disassembled the rack internals. Can't see why one would pursue a "bolt in" solution that far when modifying the '15 STI tie rods is much less intrusive, but I'm all for the discussion/discovery. Front track on my Legacy is 57.9" so even with the thinner lock nut I still need a couple of inches to make it fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 Ahh - did not see you had an '00. In your case you might need to have the tie rod turned down and cut additional threads. This will eat into the flats used to turn the tie rod while adjusting toe but there should be plenty there to get the additional distance you need. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regardie Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 I couldn't tell from your pictures of the outer end if there was enough material there to chase more threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 The wrench flats are 14mm so you really only need to knock the points off to be able to chase more threads. I just measured and from the end of the threads to the end of the hex is ~40mm. Leave 10mm of flats for your wrench and you've just gained 30mm of adjustment. Just be sure to take an equal amount off the end of the inner rod or the outer rod will bottom out. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doobaruGT Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 (edited) Welp...I went all in, but mostly because Underdog did such a great job with this thread. Hardest part was the u joint. There's not much room to work that pinch loose, but I managed. Here are a few pics from the festivities. The car is still on the lift as I did cam/crank/oil cooler seals and new WP with new gates kit. Just have to reset timing and get fluids in her tomorrow. Here's the rack about to enter the band saw for tie rod modification. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/10/8326af77d7122053997eb0c1a86a59a5.jpg It made a perfect cut, used the old jam nut to cut against. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/10/5fa38ba36207cb02aa738034733466a1.jpg http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/10/701753d874e9cb153ce4ecd058a2ee03.jpg On in you go... http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/10/d66f84cc396afee23e8a12a4e082b397.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited January 19, 2015 by doobaruGT Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 Nice work! Looking forward to driving impressions. I finally received the lock washers and boot clamps so I can reattach the inner tie rod to the rack and wrap up my install. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doobaruGT Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 First impressions are really nice! It feels noticeably more responsive. I'll wait until my alignment to give a more detailed review. To be honest, I was more concerned about executing my cam/crank seals and getting that back together. No CEL's...whew! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rapture Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 How old or how many miles were on the old rack? I cant wait to do this!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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