Moderators BarManBean Posted December 1, 2014 Moderators Share Posted December 1, 2014 I'm going to run the code today and see what his actual code is. i thought these subbies would hold up better than everyone is suggestion. Maybe better just not to get a 130k legacy or, as was suggested, buy one whose engine has totally turded out. They are good cars when well maintained. They are utterly shitty cars when not maintained. $6500 for a poorly maintained car is just too much for me. Either pay up for a decent one $10k ish depending on mods, $12-13k for something even nicer--*OR* just go for a car that needs a full rebuild for $3k or less. Just my 2 cents, buying a car that is "in the middle" of the range is just going to put you in a situation where you likely paid too much for a turd when you could have found a better car to start with or a cheaper shell to start with. If I was buying one of these as a second car and had time to build it out, I would 100% search for a southern car with a blown motor. No rust, easier to work on because of that fact, and when you are done with the build you'll have a brand new motor on a rust free car. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akasa Posted December 1, 2014 Share Posted December 1, 2014 Parts and maintenance add up on these cars very quickly on top of it all. I paid 9k (or was it 10k?) for a 5mt GT Wagon with 82k on the clock and a failed slave cylinder. (Dealer 'mechanic' thought it was the clutch ) That being said, keep money aside for when it breaks. I'd also recommend you check out this thread to get an idea of what else you're going to have to replace, because I guarantee the current owner isn't telling you half of it. - 4th Gen GT common issues. If you do end up checking this out, get a PPI + Leakdown/Compression test before you purchase it. On a side note, as BarManBean says, these are good cars when they're maintained correctly, and they can be an absolute hellish nightmare if they weren't. Don't expect the GT (or any turbocharged Subaru) last you as long as a N/A Subaru from years back, but you should be able to get a fair amount of miles out of it before you need to feed it a new engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YeuEmMaiMai Posted December 1, 2014 Share Posted December 1, 2014 to put this in perspective I bought a 2003 Legacy L special edition for $3K that needed major motor work due to piston slap. It (at the time of purchase) had 62K on it. I rebuilt the engine at 69K when it started to leak. So I spent $4k in repairs for New pistons and rings and other minor parts valve adjustment New A/C Schroeder valve New rear view mirror 4 new wheel studs front brakes steering rack repair OP, look up the value of that car on CARS.COM in your area and then slice the price in half - repairs for rear suspension and then offer him that. Now it has 72K. No way I would pay more than 4K for that car if you need to do major engine work. Major mechanical problems pretty much take HALF or MORE of the value of the car away Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05legacysp Posted December 1, 2014 Author Share Posted December 1, 2014 Thanks for all the advice. If I were selling a car I'd fix it before selling, unless fixing it was a huge project.., which is what I suspect is going on here. I'm gonna go look at it today, but I think I'd rather just find one where the motor is already toast, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted December 1, 2014 Share Posted December 1, 2014 I just posted several LGT's on the "What did you do...." thread. Take a look there before you spend your money. Might find something you like better for better money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05legacysp Posted December 1, 2014 Author Share Posted December 1, 2014 Thanks. Checked them out. I wonder how that 190k car with all the work runs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05legacysp Posted December 1, 2014 Author Share Posted December 1, 2014 I like the white one with 70k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05legacysp Posted December 1, 2014 Author Share Posted December 1, 2014 Found out the answer on the 190k one. Needs new cv/axel. Not doing that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonnyJagaru Posted December 1, 2014 Share Posted December 1, 2014 Found an 05 gt limited, 130k, vacuum leak, noisy strut. 6500$. Would you buy it? I see there are no lack of opinions on this. I had a quick look and it looks like a good car. But I wouldn't pay more than perhaps $4,000 myself. Its at the age where there are bound to be many repairs, and perhaps some expensive ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted December 1, 2014 Share Posted December 1, 2014 CV axle is not very expensive and not difficult to change. Make him an offer and use that as an argument for cheaper price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05legacysp Posted December 1, 2014 Author Share Posted December 1, 2014 On the original post - I'm headed out there now to check it out. I told him I can't offer $6500 and be said to make an offer because he doesn't wanna make the next payment. Doubt he'd take $4000 but I'll feel him out. On the craigslist post with 190k and the cv. I'm not too worried about the cv... Pretty cheap and easy fix. I'm more worried about the 190k. Even with the new parts I feel a rebuild coming soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05legacysp Posted December 1, 2014 Author Share Posted December 1, 2014 Ok test driving car. Code it's pulling is p0172 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05legacysp Posted December 1, 2014 Author Share Posted December 1, 2014 Alright drove the car, here's the verdict. Clean, seems to drive pretty well. This guy bought it at 100k, so no telling how it was taken care of before. Pulling engine code listed above, rattle in right rear strut and seems to have excessive dip that direction when turning. Guy said mechanic said there's was fluid coming out of the strut? Originally asking $6500, his pay off is $4800, and he said he'd take $5000. Opinions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted December 1, 2014 Moderators Share Posted December 1, 2014 If you buy it for $5k, do you have another $5k lying around and also another vehicle that you could drive if the LGT breaks down? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05legacysp Posted December 1, 2014 Author Share Posted December 1, 2014 I have another non turbo legacy I'm driving now. I'm hoping the code just points to a dirty MAF, I don't know about the strut Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted December 1, 2014 Moderators Share Posted December 1, 2014 Who cares about the strut. A brand new one is what, $70? Replace the rear pair for a tick over $100. If it blows on you and you don't fix it, you can probably part it out for a couple thousand if everything else is in decent shape. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05legacysp Posted December 1, 2014 Author Share Posted December 1, 2014 I don't have another $5k cash so it would be a project that would take some time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05legacysp Posted December 1, 2014 Author Share Posted December 1, 2014 Yeah not to worried about the strut. A little concerned about the code. He doesn't drive the car and it's just sitting there while he makes payments. He's anxious to sell but I doubt he'd sell under his pay off of $4800 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted December 1, 2014 Moderators Share Posted December 1, 2014 That code could be injectors, MAF, O2 sensor, pump--if you guess wrong on all account those bits will run you around $4-500 to diagnose / replace / fiddle with. Hopefully that solves the issue and you're good to go, or maybe it's even a free fix--clean MAF and new air filter, check for vacuum leaks. Beyond that tho, could be a gremlin that you chase all over the place. Just something to think about. Why $5k? Why not give him the $4800? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted December 1, 2014 Share Posted December 1, 2014 P0172 is "P0172 SYSTEM TOO RICH (BANK 1)" I couldn't find a definite fix for the problem. Sounds like the maf sensor could be dirty, o2 sensor could be bad, plugs could be worn, and a few other things. Sounds like the rear strut is blown, not really a big deal in my opinion on a 130k car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05legacysp Posted December 1, 2014 Author Share Posted December 1, 2014 That's what's I'd offer him... Just can't decide if it's worth it to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted December 1, 2014 Moderators Share Posted December 1, 2014 Did you do a compression test? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted December 1, 2014 Moderators Share Posted December 1, 2014 I would say to do that. With the specific code, if the compression is good it might be a decent deal. You might spend a $1k or so getting it back to snuff. Has timing belt / waterpump been done? Clutch replaced? How are the tires? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05legacysp Posted December 1, 2014 Author Share Posted December 1, 2014 Tires are good. It's a 4eat. Timjng belt and water pump have not been replaced since he's owned it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted December 1, 2014 Moderators Share Posted December 1, 2014 If it's a GT it's a 5eat So you get it, replace all of those sensors above and the timing belt. If you do the work yourself you are in it for about $1k in maintenance / fixing the code--Probably double that if you have a shop do it. You *need* to do a compression test before buying this car though... "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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