Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

OEM or Aftermarket Clutch for Stage 2 LGT?


TakmaN

Recommended Posts

I purchased my 2008 Legacy GT second-hand and it has an insanely stiff clutch in it. I think if I did a leg day workout, I wouldn't be able to drive it home.

 

I think it has almost 70K on it so I'm looking into getting a new clutch/flywheel and want it to be close to OEM in feel and I definitely do not want any chatter. My car is stage 2 (EL headers, SPT intake, 3" DP, SPT exhaust, protune) and has about 300hp/320 ft lb. of torque. I won't be tracking the car in the foreseeable future and use it as a daily commuter and some spirited driving on the weekends.

 

Should I go with a Stage 1/Stage 2 kit from Exedy, South Bend, or Clutchmasters? Or should I stick with the OEM kit like the one infamousperformance has (linked below)?

 

http://www.infamousperformance.net/servlet/the-1296/Subaru-2007-dsh-2010-Legacy-GT/Detail

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I went with a clutchmasters fx300 a few years back. After several track days and vf52 on e85 the clutch is starting to slip. It's lasted almost 70k miles now and I have relatively few complaints (aside from the ridiculous on-off feel the clutch had until it was broken in). I will be going to oem my next clutch change in a few months because I'd rather go through a clutch disk than a gearset. From what I've gleamed from many transmission failures is A) people abusing the car and/or B) having a really grabby clutch.

 

You'll get a majority of people saying go with stage2. I however will say stay with oem or stage1. Also, you don't need a new flywheel, you should be able to get yours resurfaced for ~$30 and save some money there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I went with a SB Stg3 daily (just installed 2 days ago.) I'm close to your numbers but will eventually be around 340tq.

 

Clutch is not stiff and I'd say really close to stock.

 

Like cypher was saying though, this clutch is very grabby. Like very grabby. It might be because it is brand new.

 

I'm getting zero noise or chatter from the clutch though, which is really nice.

 

Looking forward to post break-in, have a feeling it may wreck my 5mt though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like you have a ACT in there.

 

I have great performance out of Spec Clutches. My Spec 2+ was still strong at 85,000 miles. My Spec 2 has over 45,000 miles and has been flawless.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Given my driving style, I opted for an OEM clutch (and granted they're much cheaper). If it goes, it goes and I'll upgrade to a Stage 2 clutch but I would like to have a base-line of what the OEM feels like first before going into any others.

 

I also drive in intelligent mode like 95% of the time and might do the occasional highway pull so it doesn't make a whole lot of sense getting a stage 2 clutch when I'm sitting in traffic for most of my daily commute.

 

What parts would I need for a full oem clutch replacement? Right I have the following on order:

-Flywheel (would rather have a new one since I'm spending so much already): part no. 12342AA090

-Clutch Disk: 30100AA883

-Clutch Cover: 30210AA690

-Throw Out Bearing: 30502AA120

 

Do I need any other bearings or an alignment tool? I'll be getting the install done at an independent shop.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like you have a ACT in there.

 

I have great performance out of Spec Clutches. My Spec 2+ was still strong at 85,000 miles. My Spec 2 has over 45,000 miles and has been flawless.

 

Hey Byron, I have the VF 52, pushing about 20 psi. My Daily driver. What's your take between the Spec 2 and the 2+?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So far the Spec 2 has been fine. My old 2+ would chatter every now and then when it was damp outside. A simple side step of the clutch pedal in netural at a stop sign fixed it.

 

The Spec 2+ also would howl in 1st gear, I asked Spec they said its normal for the clutch material, don't worry. That clutch was still going strong at 85,000 miles when I replaced it when I put the ej257 in.

 

The Spec 2 has made that howl a couple times in the hot weather, I'm not worried about it.

 

FWIW I also installed Moore Performance Blast Plates on the junkyard tranny I put in, in Oct. Over 2000 miles with them, the tranny shifts much better then the old tranny every did.

 

I do have more driveline rattle on decel but I also installed Cobb Poly mounts on the rear diff cradel, they are very hard. I also have a LWFW which makes decel noise increase too.

 

I just can't say how happy I am with the way the blast plates stiffen the tranny cases and the car goes into 3rd gear at any throttle angle without any fighting.

 

I wrote a few weeks back about passing a car on the back roads, went to WOT in 1st, pulled the car into the other lane, hit 2nd gear while out there, as I'm headed back over the crown in the road, shift into 3rd gear without any fighting from the tranny. That would not happen with previous Subaru GT wagons I've owned.

 

I have over 300,000 miles of driving 5mt GT wagons since 1998.

 

TakmaN, I guess you never get to do this. I find the OEM clutch will slip when backing up the car in 3" of wet snow. I would never put a OEM clutch in these cars.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^ Good stuff man. I thought i was the only one having problems with 3rd gear shift at WOT. I do get some chatter on decel also. Now I'm wondering if the previous owner did have a SMFW installed. I guess I may never know. :( Anyway, I'm about to pull the trigger and replace this clutch. Some Shops are recommending ACT, Spec or Southbend. I 'm looking at a deal on NASIOC for a Stg. 3 Competition Clutch but I think stage 3 will be an overkill for my setup.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've heard good and bad things about almost all clutch brands. Seems like South Bend Stage 2 Endurance has good reviews. I probably would have went with that or Clutchmasters FX300 if I didn't go OEM.

 

Max Capacity--fortunately I have no idea what it is like to reverse in snow (until I take her to the mountains of course) :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just had a Competition Clutch Stage 2 installed with the Competition Clutch Steel Flywheel.

 

Was very grabby initially and pedal feel was much lighter than my FX300 (died in 20k miles) but now is fine. No chatter, just a bit of noise on deceleration, but thats mostly exaggerated by my basically solid pitchstop. Still about 100 miles away from the 500 mile (highway driving) break in period they recommend.

 

So far Im happy with it, but I was very happy with my FX300 after break-in also.. time will tell.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Decided to go with the ACT HD. I haven't purchased it as yet, but of course the car isn't as bad as it was before. Still feeling very minimal slippage. I am starting to wonder if the problem came as a result of a mis shift ( 5th to 2nd accidentally). If so, can it be that clutch suffered some overheating and scarring and is getting better? ( I know, seems like I'm reaching) Also, I got a lot of chatter on decel couple weeks ago. All gone. This car is weird.:spin:
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I went with the Exedy Stage 1 with an ACT SMFW, love the clutch so far, only about 5k miles on it, but it feels great not too heavy but pulls wonderful and not too noisy. All the "subie gurus" out here in Phoenix recommended it and I can see why.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
I also am looking at getting a new clutch here soon. My car is stage 2 and has an etune, wondering what everyone is recommending these days? Ive used clutchmasters in all my Hondas and had success, but obviously this car isn't a honda and things are much different. My STI was fully built so I dont wanna use the same stage 3 clutch as I feel that will be overkill. I drive my car daily for work and want something with a similar feel to stock but with a bit more bite in case I decide to do more upgrades in the future. Any suggestions?

03 WRB WRX (RIP)

04 JBP STI (sold)

07 DGM Legacy GT (RIP)

12 OBP STI (DD)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just ordered a Spec 2+ and steel FW from "underdog" for my wagon. The Spec 2 clutch is slipping in 5th gear when cold. It has 49,000 miles at 21psi.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use