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Subyski's 2005 LGT Rebuild


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Well the engine shop didn't do any thing to the scoring on the cam journals, they dont want to remove any material so there is max oil pressure there. I agree, but i also dont want the scoring to cause other issues down the road. Opinions?

 

i will get photos shortly

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305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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So i called the shop and talked to the guy who did the heads.

 

He did touch up the journals so they should have no wear issues, but didn't take out all the scratches because he wanted to keep max oil pressure in there. I feel a lot better than i did. He claims to do 2-4 sets of subaru heads a week. And i agree he would not have given them back to me if they were bad. Its just a case of me being paranoid and not wanting the engine to crap out after i put it back together.

 

 

I am planing to run Rotella t6 5w40 in this car like i do for all my subarus

 

Thanks for the link

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Its just a case of me being paranoid and not wanting the engine to crap out after i put it back together.

 

You seem like the worryer type. :lol:

 

That said, I am, too, and, unfortunately, it doesn't go away until after you'u're through the break-in period and have everything all buttoned up like it's supposed to be -

 

So, you're (however many) weeks/months, dollars, and miles away from being able to relax and just enjoy it. :/

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What he said, I have over 1000 miles on the rebuilt junkyard tranny. It got me to VT yesterday without any issues. If it get's me home today after skiing, I'll feel better.

 

EDIT; after skiing back at the house in VT I figured I'd check the oil before the drive home. Open the hood and get a nose full of gas fums. Had to go to my ski tuning box and get a screwdriver and tighten that front clamp about 2 turns.

 

Who has the thread here, "it never ends"...

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Work has slowed a little but, been putting in extra hours at work to help pay for the parts.

 

And this happened which does not make me eager to hangout in the garage:

http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt4/subieski/2014-11-16_21-24-10_289_zps0cb8aff9.jpg

 

Got the valve covers, and oil pan back from the shop nicely cleaned

 

http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt4/subieski/2014-11-16_21-20-34_299_zps6d331c35.jpg

 

Heads were cleaned as well

 

http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt4/subieski/2014-11-16_21-14-41_405_zpsd8187dbc.jpg

 

http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt4/subieski/2014-11-16_21-10-53_269_zps550114cb.jpg

 

http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt4/subieski/2014-11-16_21-09-42_976_zps0b1577eb.jpg

 

Here are some photos of the scoring that i was concerned about .

 

Cam shafts

 

http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt4/subieski/2014-11-16_21-14-21_466_zps805d4af8.jpg

 

Cam journals

http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt4/subieski/2014-11-16_21-13-43_808_zpsf5da0d7f.jpg

 

Got the block mostly torn down, and off the engine stand so i can put the new block on.

 

Here are pics of the pistons and wear on the cylinder walls.

 

http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt4/subieski/2014-11-16_21-08-55_225_zps5a0721c6.jpg

 

http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt4/subieski/2014-11-16_21-08-06_813_zps87ef32f9.jpg

 

nasty http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt4/subieski/IMG_1590_zpsd0d53976.jpg

 

This one has the worst a little hard to see but the pitting is pretty deep.

 

http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt4/subieski/IMG_1593_zps7beea496.jpg

 

And this one is pretty bad as well.

http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt4/subieski/IMG_1596_zps8484e09c.jpg

http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/tt4/subieski/IMG_1597_zps8f048d00.jpg

 

I ordered a timing belt kit from mach V this weekend, they had a killer deal, all pulleys, tensioner and belt fro 190 shipped.

 

Next up is to order the SB, gasket kit and oil pump.

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Make sure your oil cooler is clean, or replaced.

 

Oh tighten all the gas line clamps or replace them with screw type clamps.

 

Hind sight, now 20/20, I should have reached up to the old Skippy peanut butter of screw type clamps just outside the picture of my intake on the work bench and replaced all the clamps. It's not I don't have any left over from the race car.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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yeah i can't justify the price tag of the aftermarket ones, maybe if i find a used one for a deal. But i just spent some extra getting a perrin up pipe which will give better gains than an inlet.

 

Personally, I went the other way; Spendy(ish) inlet and OEM STi UP.

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I had an sti up on my wrx and had to un install and reinstall a few times, 2 for heat sheild rattles, and finally replaced with a grimspeed up pipe when it broke. i had no issues with the GS pipe, and wish i hadn't sold it this spring.
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yeah i can't justify the price tag of the aftermarket ones, maybe if i find a used one for a deal. But i just spent some extra getting a perrin up pipe which will give better gains than an inlet.

 

I hope you didn't get the 2" UP ; You'll have a hard time spooling up with something that big, unless you're also running a big turbo, too. You want the 1.75 at the biggest. This is where OEM catless really shines. I hope you didn't buy brand new, for what you'd spend on a new Perrin UP, you could buy an STi-takeoff and a used aftermarket inlet.

 

There's a member here selling an APS hard inlet, which is a pretty nice upgrade, if you can swing it. Worth checking out, anyhow.

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I dont' think the vf52 will be pushing soo much air that i will need to get a new inlet, but lets get through break in first. Installing a new inlet isnt that hard down the road.

 

nope i grabbed a 1.75 from a member on nasioc that is going EWG

 

ill look at the inlet a few more hours of overtime might be in order ;) lol

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You can tear the inlet if your trying to re-install the turbo while trying to line up the oil return hose, up pipe studs, and inlet all at the same time.

 

That's why I bolt the turbo to the up pipe. I learned.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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93 octane. Those numbers are on a true reading Mustang Dyno. I can tell you the car feels like a lot more them 280whp. On a dynojet it would be over 300.

 

That's been confirmed by a couple of guy's at different Tuners, one who knows this Maustang Dyno, it's a heart breaker number wise.

 

But the car will spin the tires on a roll on in first gear on cold pavement.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Thanks for the heads up.

 

BTW what fuel are you running Max? i would think with 20.8 psi and a vf 52 you should be above the 300 hp mark

 

I think THIS POST can help clear up some of your questions.

 

1. The taper is actually due the restriction of the diameter and size of the compressor housing in 3 places-inlet, backing plate to housing aspect ratio, and size of the output to the TMIC. The maximum volume is basically as such as it is, regardless of the PSI. PSI is how fast it can move the maximum volume through the restriction.

 

2. I have no data on the actual HP rating based on per PSI. No one can give true data on this as they have no idea what it will be put on. If I put it on my fresh forged build with 100mm pistons, larger TMIC, and intake, it's going to be far different than it will be on someone else's 119K stock 2.5 with a panel filter. When someone claims that "this will give you an 8 hp gain" remember this thread. That's a bunch of crap because no one knows exactly where their part is going.

 

3. Again, as in #1, it's based on the restrictions and maximum volume. A larger hole at 20 PSI will flow more than a smaller hole at 20 PSI.

 

4. Part of the reason that the VF52 has more on the top end is because of the size of the exhaust housing and turbine. It's substantially larger than the VF40 turbine and is actually a bit more restrictive at low speeds due to the design of the turbine and blades. Once you have it spinning and the exhaust is flowing hard into the turbine, then it increases speed faster than the smaller turbine which in turn, gives you more and more pressure at higher rpm, which gives you more top speed. The larger compressor wheel is moving more volume, which increases the horsepower, but in a higher rpm range which can make it not as practical for most people.

 

If you really want to know how the PSI can make a difference, find someone that was foolish enough to buy Perrin's BIG up pipe and put it on their stock or basically stock setup and ask them about how the spool was in relation to the OE pipe. They'll tell you it spooled like a TURD because the volume of the exhaust is such that it's not enough (until you have a huge build for giant hp) to push the turbine fast enough until it's in very high rpms. Everything that's past the turbo is irrelevant (except for sound for the owner) as once the exhaust passes the turbine, backpressure, restrictions, or anything else are unnecessary versus as they are on many N/A cars for the ECM to read the O2 properly and make adjustments. You can in essence not have any down pipe and it will make a hell of a lot of noise and stink like crazy, but it will run fine (except for the CEL for the rear O2 but it still is unnecessary) and actually boost a little better because of no restriction past the turbine.

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