Tehnation Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 So I was looking to get a new shortblock, an ej257, when I asked for a quote he gives me options for 3 f'n ej257's... and i'm like huh? This is what they have to offer : "We do have them in Stock and they run 1687.99 plus 100.00 dollars to ship in the US. We carry the one for the 04-07 and also the 08-13 block that comes with the nitrated crank which runs 1699.99 plus 100.00 dollars for shipping." I'm thinking to myself the 08-13 has got to be the best option because its the latest design, but we all know better! lol I'm like nitrated crank sounds better and only 12 dollars more. Can anyone shed some light on this because I think my brain is about explode from all the options and combinations for these engines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 Who did you call? Ghostbusters? Haven't heard of many issues with the new blocks, and certainly not as a result of the new cranks. I see the black cranks on the table at the shop nearly everytime I'm there, being reused and going into a new forged motor. Heuberger has it for $1645 (10103AC0030) $200 shipped CONUS. Seriously, don't skimp on the shipping -- I speak from experience. The extra $100 should ensure (insure?) that it's adequately insured and handled properly. The last thing you want is your block being dropped and tossed around on its way to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 5, 2014 Author Share Posted October 5, 2014 Actually 2 options! Whoops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted October 5, 2014 Moderators Share Posted October 5, 2014 They've bounced all over with cranks--normal, then nitrided, then heat treated, not sure what they put in there now, but all subaru cranks seem to be pretty good. I wouldn't worry about it. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 5, 2014 Author Share Posted October 5, 2014 So its nitrated or not. Guess I'm going with nitrated. I called the people you called! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted October 5, 2014 Moderators Share Posted October 5, 2014 Nitrided. Not Nitrated. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 They've bounced all over with cranks--normal, then nitrided, then heat treated, not sure what they put in there now, but all subaru cranks seem to be pretty good. I wouldn't worry about it. This. So its nitrated or not. Guess I'm going with nitrated. I called the people you called! Really? Ask for Bryce, if he wasn't who you talked to. But either way, just ask for a new 255 and you'll get the one with the black crank. For real, it's super sexy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 5, 2014 Author Share Posted October 5, 2014 I was planning my rebuild, and then I realized the engine I want is going to cost lots of money, but i'm tired of dumping oil in it. So I'm going to rebuild heads, swap shortblock, and then use the old ej255 as my guinea pig and tackle the assembly myself. I'm noticing everyone that gets theirs built has some kind of issue, so you have to get a built block which is even more money or get it built by a true subaru "specialist" which means "pay me more money for my experience", both of which I don't want to do. I can just build another complete engine with all the goodies for a reasonable price. may even find another subaru with a busted engine to put it in if I actually finish it lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 I was planning my rebuild, and then I realized the engine I want is going to cost lots of money, but i'm tired of dumping oil in it. So I'm going to rebuild heads, swap shortblock, and then use the old ej255 as my guinea pig and tackle the assembly myself. I'm noticing everyone that gets theirs built has some kind of issue, so you have to get a built block which is even more money or get it built by a true subaru "specialist" which means "pay me more money for my experience", both of which I don't want to do. I can just build another complete engine with all the goodies for a reasonable price. may even find another subaru with a busted engine to put it in if I actually finish it lol. That's probably the best plan one can have -- The built blocks just aren't worth the money if they're your DD or you're not interested/can't continue to drop the money into them when they break. I plan on buying another LGT, maybe a wagon, and putting my current motor in that when I finish building my original block, which will go back into the car it was born with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 5, 2014 Author Share Posted October 5, 2014 Nitrided. Not Nitrated. Good to know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 5, 2014 Author Share Posted October 5, 2014 built block would cost more than I paid for the car lol. They are asking for 11-15k for built longblock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 built block would cost more than I paid for the car lol. They are asking for 11-15k for built longblock. Well, yeah. That's a built LONGBLOCK. Heads, valves, the whole kit-n-kaboodle. IIRC, this car is your DD, right? There's no need to go crazy on it. In fact, I'm drafting a PM response to this same effect, to someone who's asking almost the same thing. I really don't support the idea of built motors unless you've got a second, more reliable car, or have no need to leave the house to earn your living. If it's gonna be a racecar, then, sure -- shoot the moon. But the bottom line is, 99% of us will be just fine running a new OEM 255/257 short block and following the standard rebuild formula. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted October 5, 2014 Author Share Posted October 5, 2014 I want to stroke it and go with stage 2 cams, and be a dd. dd is a mater of opinion! lol what one would consider a dd others would consider WTF! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 5, 2014 Share Posted October 5, 2014 My ej257 was the latest version, Installed it 2 years ago, over 42,000 miles at 21.psi. Runs great. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sketron1 Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 Guys, it's nitrided. It's a diffusion based case-hardening method that increases surface hardness substantially, and provides a hardness gradient similar to carburizing (albeit not as deep). Fatigue strength and life increase and damage to the surface of the crankshaft during operation will be reduced. We use this all the time in oil/gas. It can give it a blackish color also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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