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Total rebuild now many codes, help !


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  • 2 weeks later...
Update, Good news... Replaced the R.H AVCS cam gear and the (16102AA340 - Solenoid valve 2.5 LITER TURBO Right) and then reassembled (for the fourth time) the timing belt and front of engine. The misfires on cylinder #3 are gone. Yes, we now have codes P0302, P0304, PFFFE AND PFFFF engine misfires on cylinders 2 & 4 in which we never had up to this point. If the timing marks are now off on the left side how can 3 grown men all back yard mechanics line up all marks, count the teeth at all points, climb all around looking at all the marks at every possible angle then rotate the crank by hand and recheck all marks still be off a tooth ? This car was never meant to run again...
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Update, Good news... Replaced the R.H AVCS cam gear and the (16102AA340 - Solenoid valve 2.5 LITER TURBO Right) and then reassembled (for the fourth time) the timing belt and front of engine. The misfires on cylinder #3 are gone. Yes, we now have codes P0302, P0304, PFFFE AND PFFFF engine misfires on cylinders 2 & 4 in which we never had up to this point. If the timing marks are now off on the left side how can 3 grown men all back yard mechanics line up all marks, count the teeth at all points, climb all around looking at all the marks at every possible angle then rotate the crank by hand and recheck all marks still be off a tooth ? This car was never meant to run again...

 

The codes PFFE and PFFF. Who knows what these are? I'm not at work today and I don't have access to my service information. Seems to me that those maybe popping up as a manufacturer specific code, and I only assume that you're using a generic code reader to pull them.

 

When the car is running, can you check the following data sets in the pcm, look at ocv duty cycles left and right, they should match, or be close to it, also, check the ocv actual for left and right.

 

Also, have you compression checked the motor?

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Are you sure the valves are set correctly ?

 

Thanks for the thought, as mentioned earlier he had all the rebuild specifications. Why if it were incorrect set valves why then would the affected cylinders 1&3 stop throwing codes and suddenly 2&4 start misfiring ?

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I only assume that you're using a generic code reader to pull them. When the car is running, can you check the following data sets in the pcm, look at ocv duty cycles left and right, they should match, or be close to it, also, check the ocv actual for left and right.

Also, have you compression checked the motor?

 

He is reading them on a V3 Access Port and I need help to understand how to read a pcm and to look at the ocv duty cycles. Can this be done with the Access port or a lap top ? The engine was just checked for compression and with running time (less than an hour) the numbers were some what low (~115psi).

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Bought a cam holding tool (works slick)! Reinstalled timing belt 2 times and both times I now have miss fires on all 4 cylinders.... I am DONE... Freekin Done ! The car is going to be loaded on a flat bed and hauled to a garage some where and I do NOT want to hear from them until its done... This sucks...
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In our haste we decided to start it without putting the front all together which we have done before but this time I did not install the damper on the crank shaft... could this screw up valves ? When I realized I installed it and made no difference.
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  • 2 weeks later...
Yes, I am a glutton for punishment... (can not walk away). I decided to check T.D.C. on #1 cylinder (passenger side Front) and when the Crank gear mark (yellow line) is lined up with the block yellow mark (12 O'clock) the piston is already on it's way back down from T.D.C. ? The arrow (what is the purpose of this arrow) on the Crank gear is pointing to ~3 o'clock. Another way to put it is if I turn over until #1 is at T.D.C. the crank gear yellow mark is at the ~9 O'clock position.
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Sounds like something is off.

 

Like you did, pull the passenger front spark plug, that is #1. rotate the crank a few times make sure you can feel pressure build in the cylinder.

 

I seem to recall the crank TDC is off from you would think it should be, I could be thinking of Honda civic's too, I'll check the service manual.

 

I think you've already figured you need to start over with the timing.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Page 1753 in the 2005 service manual has a picture.

 

I think you know the marks on the belt don't matter, they mean nothing, forget about them. Focus only on the timing marks on the pulleys.

 

Also read the bottom note on page 5474.

The #1 piston is set at TDC on the compression stroke when the piston-position mark on the

camshaft sprocket is facing directly upward.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Page 1753 in the 2005 service manual has a picture.

I think you know the marks on the belt don't matter, they mean nothing, forget about them. Focus only on the timing marks on the pulleys.

 

Also read the bottom note on page 5474.

The #1 piston is set at TDC on the compression stroke when the piston-position mark on the

camshaft sprocket is facing directly upward.

 

I have focused on the timing pulley's and crank gear marks but, also counted the teeth on the belt and the marks are correct. One thing I can not wrap my brain around is the compression stroke and yes, I under stand the #1 cylinder valves will be closed. The cam gear is directly bolted to the cam and so, every complete 360 degree turn of the cam gear the cam also, turns a complete 360 degree revolution right (?) and therefore if all the timing marks are aligned on the right side (passenger) cams then it has to be on compression stroke ?

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Thinking back to my v8 days. Another way to tell #1 is at TDC is to make sure the next piston in the firing order is at the bottom.

 

It may be hard to do with the valve cover on. I'm just thinking out loud here...

 

Have you reviewed the DIY timing belt guides here. There was a few drawings as to what happens.

 

 

Can you put a compression gage in #1 cylinder, you may be able to watch is build compression as it comes up to TDC.

 

The piston is at the top of the cylinder at the end of the exhaust stoke too. That's 180 out.

 

 

PM underdog, he works with this stuff more than I do.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Thinking back to my v8 days. Another way to tell #1 is at TDC is to make sure the next piston in the firing order is at the bottom.

Have you reviewed the DIY timing belt guides here. There was a few drawings as to what happens. Can you put a compression gage in #1 cylinder, you may be able to watch is build compression as it comes up to TDC.

The piston is at the top of the cylinder at the end of the exhaust stroke too. That's 180 out.

 

-Another way to tell #1 is at TDC is to make sure the next piston in the firing order is at the bottom. = True

-Have you reviewed the DIY timing belt guides here. There was a few drawings as to what happens. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/timing-belt-replacement-2-5t-106809.html

-Can you put a compression gage in #1 cylinder, you may be able to watch is build compression as it comes up to TDC. = Yes, I have a gauge

- The piston is at the top of the cylinder at the end of the exhaust stroke too. That's 180 out. So, if this is the problem can I with the belt off independently turn the cam gears (top gears C.W.) until in position then turn the bottom's C.C.W. I understand you do not want the top cams to turn C.C.W. while the bottoms are turned C.W. therefore hitting each other.

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