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Total rebuild now many codes, help !


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Since, the compression check now it will only pop and fire and will not start....W.T.Heck, I pulled the fuel pump fuse ! I did check the fuel injector connectors and my test light lights at the injectors. We have rechecked all timing marks (third time since, assembly the front of engine has been off...) and B.T.W. every forth revolution of the crank all marks realign except of course the marks on the belt. I checked fuel pressure and with no start it is at 45psi. Talked to the guy who done the heads and he does not feel it is mechanical says it sounds electrical and mentioned to check the EGR valve.

Is there any way ?

-1 the variable(?) clutch timing clog assembly on that side could be bad ?

-2 the cam sensor on #1 & 3 defective ?

-3 the crank sensor defective ?

 

the marks on all the pullies should line up every 2 revolutions. The marks on the belt will not line back up again after install, no big deal.

 

The variable intake camshaft can clog up, there is a write up on how to disassemble and clean them

 

I doubt the cam sensor is bad, same with the crank sensor.

 

My previous post, do it, pull those pullies off and make sure they are centered on their alignment dowels, pullies can be installed incorrectly.

 

Your only getting a p0301 and p0303? If timing was off or your cam sensors were bad you would get p0340, p0021, and possibly p0011. I would still check them, especially seeing as how you are saying its popping when your trying to crank. Thats usually bad timing.

 

Just to make sure, you didnt cross the connectors for coil packs on 1 & 3. black connector i believe is for the rear most cylinder on both cylinder heads.

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Thanks for all the great ideas !

 

-Alignment pins, this is a very good possibility... although, I thought they were correct I will pull them off tonight. One would think they would wobble if not in the hole ?

-"marks on all the pulleys should line up every 2 revolutions" = it seems that one side will realign after 2 crank revolution but it takes 4 complete turns for both sides... am I nuts....? :)

-It does also, throw PFFFF & PFFFE codes sometimes.

-"Have you unplugged and reconnected all the electrical connectors, even the injectors ?" Over and over and over....

-Cam sensor... I was just wondering if that could explain the clicking/snapping sound I hear on that side ?

 

I truly Thank you all for your input !

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Your welcome, we all feel your pain.

 

In my thinking, even at 2 revolutions, the marks should be 180 out.

 

 

Could it be possilbe that the 1 & 3 cams were installed/timed 180 to start with ?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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With two revolutions of the crankshaft there is one revolution of the can shaft. They should all line backup after two revolutions. After one turn of the crankshaft timing marks on camshafts will be 180 out.

 

With the timing belt off, you just line up all marks, then put the belt back on. Without the belt on it doesn't matter how many rotations have happened, there is no relationship between cams and crank.

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it seems that one side will realign after 2 crank revolution but it takes 4 complete turns for both sides... am I nuts....?

 

So you have a issue there.

 

AMileHighLGT is saying you need to take the belt off and start over setting the timing.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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What did the machine shop do with the head that burnt a valve on Cylinder three? just replace valves?

You can get a few other issues when with a bad enough burnt valve that could cause the "clicking sound"

like the valve seat not being completely aligned if they had to re-cut the valve seat (rare), or if they didn't

re-cut it could be a bad seat. It would cause low compression numbers and clicking sound as the valve moves from the off position to seating itself.

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Could it be possilbe that the 1 & 3 cams were installed/timed 180 to start with ?

 

Interesting..... If (Big If) the clog pins are in the holes of the camshaft and all the marks were lined properly then, the cam had to be correct ? Right ? Would it not take an un-aligned pin and hole to be 180 or any degree off ?

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Interesting..... If (Big If) the clog pins are in the holes of the camshaft and all the marks were lined properly then, the cam had to be correct ? Right ? Would it not take an un-aligned pin and hole to be 180 or any degree off ?

If its not on the centering pin on the camshaft it probably won't wobble much, and the marks may line up on the pullies, but the camshafts would not be in time.

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right, and it can be off by any amount (not just 180 degrees). the only visual you might have is that the pulley would sticking out forward about 1/8" (the height of the alignment pin on the nose of the cam), but that would be hard to notice.
BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT
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First things first when you are turning then crank over by hand while watching one side and ask a kid to watch when the timing marks line up on the other side you do not get a straight answer until 4 revolutions of the crank when in fact they do line up every 2 revolutions..... my bad. Notice the Right hand intake cam sprocket hole is oblong and can turn 3-5(?) degrees with the sprocket installed... not good, time for a new one ? Now for the big question the right hand sprockets are easily lined up to the marks but notice the position, of the left hand sprocket in relation to the 12 o'clock mark which is necessary to time. To turn from ~ 10 o'clock position to 12 o'clock takes considerable torque as in using a strap wrench is necessary and tries to spring back c.c.w. is this normal ? I have been careful to only turn the top sprockets c.w. and the bottoms ccw and never at the same time.

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That sir looks like a pulley that was very close to the alignment pin but not exact. I had a colleague do that early last week. I've seen that on other timing belt jobs done by other shops.

 

The force it takes to turn the cam in relation to the opposite side is normal. You are overcoming the spring pressure of the valve springs (about 80-100 ft/lbs) trying to close the valve as it is at max lift.

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So do you suspect that if the cam's pin was offset about halfway off the hole in the pulley, it "punched a new hole" when the bolt was torqued down? That's why it now appears oblong?
BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT
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Ok, want to order a new camshaft gear/pulley P#13049AA041 but, what all controls the timing/oil to this assembly is, there a solenoid ? I have searched and found ACVS and OCV sensors but find nothing as far as an actual part in which I assume would be on the right hand head ? I have talked to some who do not believe this P#13049AA041 is the only issue with the timing.
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Received the Part(s) yesterday #21 on diagram clearly points to both intake & exhaust Part Number: 13049AA041 They only shipped the bottom exhaust pulley the one I did not need... This car was not meant to run again...

http://heubergersubaruparts.com/parts/2005/SUBARU/Legacy/GT%20Limited?siteid=215892&vehicleid=184583&diagram=F731015

F731015.jpg.97bc19ae89994c6febaee7956d494e4a.jpg

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