boxman Posted September 6, 2014 Share Posted September 6, 2014 I broke a swivel socket on that particular bolt. Haven't gotten around to trying it again with impact rated sockets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted September 6, 2014 Moderators Share Posted September 6, 2014 WTH, people? It's literally just another 14mm bolt on a subaru that's torqued to ~30ft/lbs. You shouldn't be breaking shit on it. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 6, 2014 Share Posted September 6, 2014 Thanks for the vote of confidence in the bolt holding out. I'll have to make a decision if I want to attempt it or not. I'm curious to hear what Max Capacity has to say after taking a look. I just went out and checked it and I'm almost 99% convinced if it breaks it won't be the end of the world. This would be a no brainier if there were some reason other than to check the status of this filter. But given there is nothing to fix it could result in breaking a bolt other than to check the filter. I know at some point it's likely I'll do it. I'm kind of OCD about these things and knowing this bolt is a potential problem will likely lead me to resolve it sooner rather than later. Max...let me know what you think. In post 33 in my click here link you can see a couple of pictures where that bracket attaches to the up pipe and block. I have to agree, I can't see you breaking that bolt in the block. Here's a common one I post, http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4782.jpg I would think, once the turbo is off you should have enough room to even heat the bolt if you had too. A shop should be able to handle that. But I bet a electric impact tool should break it free. Start off with the impact tool on a low setting, let it hammer and let the PB Blaster do its work. I'll look more and see if I have a better picture of the bolt on the block. I remember installing the new bolt on that front bracket but don't remember removing it. So it must have come out easy. That's most likely because I had a shop replace my up pipe a year before. Is the bolt we're talking about the one that goes into the hold on the side of the block down there by the oil return pipe and where the tranny bolts up just below the guide pin ? If so, if it breaks, you have another bolt that holds the other bracket to the block. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4769.jpg http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4751.jpg 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny5280 Posted September 6, 2014 Author Share Posted September 6, 2014 There seems to be a lot of confusion as to which bolt I am having challenges with. I've taken a few pictures and added some textual comments to help people understand where this bolt is located. I believe Max is correct in the bolt secures the bracket which attaches the up pipe to the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxman Posted September 6, 2014 Share Posted September 6, 2014 WTH, people? It's literally just another 14mm bolt on a subaru that's torqued to ~30ft/lbs. You shouldn't be breaking shit on it. Yeah, that was my reaction to it, never the less... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny5280 Posted September 6, 2014 Author Share Posted September 6, 2014 WTH, people? It's literally just another 14mm bolt on a subaru that's torqued to ~30ft/lbs. You shouldn't be breaking shit on it. In an ideal world it would be just another 14 mm bolt torqued at ~30ft/lbs. Unfortunately it looks as if whomever replaced the turbo wasn't careful and didn't do a good job of replacing the bolts. The thought is whomever replaced this bolt may have cross threaded it. I won't know until I attempt to have it removed. Will the bolt break if I have it removed? I won't know until I give the go ahead to attempt to extract it and it either breaks or comes out. Two mechanics have stated it is their opinion it will break and therefore are unwilling to proceed with removing it unless I release them from liability should it do so. At this time the reason to remove it, removing the banjo bolt filter, doesn't appear to justify the risk of breaking the head off the bolt. If that should happen and I have to extract the bolt I could incur a large expense in doing so. Right now I can't be certain the filter is even present. The possibility exists whomever replaced the turbo removed the filter as part of the replacement. Unfortunately since I don't know who did the work I can't check with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 6, 2014 Share Posted September 6, 2014 Like BMB said, if you can get a socket, extension and 1/2" breaker bar on that bolt, have someone hit the top of the bar straight down on the bolt while someone puts force in the off direction. You should use a 5lb hammer and lots of force and hits, but it should come loose. We do that same process on some of the screws we have to remove from a item at work. Those screws are put in at 80ftlbs on a 3/8 counter sunk screw that we use a 5/16" hex bit to remove it. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny5280 Posted September 6, 2014 Author Share Posted September 6, 2014 I do have access to a hand impact wrench. Might be a good tool for the job. With that said the question I'm grappling with is if I should even bother with it at this time. My current situation is I have a brand new turbo and car which is running just fine. Do I want to risk creating a potential issue when there's no compelling reason to do so. My options are: Do nothing. The car is running fine and, aside from removing a filter I don't even know is present, there's no reason to mess with it.Leave it alone for the time being and address it at some point in the future because my OCD gets the best of me.Leave it alone and address it at some point in the future because there's a reason to (i.e. maintenance / repair forces the issue).Attempt to remove the bolt. If it doesn't break then continue on with removing the banjo bolt filter.Attempt to remove the bolt. If it breaks leave it be. This assumes leave it be is an option (still trying to figure this out).Attempt to remove the bolt. If it breaks spend what could be a lot of money to extract the rest of it For the time being I'm working with the first option: Do nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 6, 2014 Share Posted September 6, 2014 I'm sure that even option 5 will work. Do you really need that bolt. They are other bolts that hold the up pipe. If it breaks just lift the bracket off the bolt. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny5280 Posted September 6, 2014 Author Share Posted September 6, 2014 I'm sure that even option 5 will work. Do you really need that bolt. They are other bolts that hold the up pipe. If it breaks just lift the bracket off the bolt. That's the "I'm still trying to figure this out" part If what you describe is it then it's likely I'll attempt to pull it. If for no other reason then I'm OCD about stuff like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 6, 2014 Share Posted September 6, 2014 Hitting the 1/2" breaker bar with a 5lb hammer while someone is pushing the handle seems to work pretty well, don't be afraid to "HIT" the breaker bar. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny5280 Posted September 15, 2014 Author Share Posted September 15, 2014 Update: Finally decided to bite the bullet and have the bolt removed. It took some effort but it did come out without breaking. The mechanic is going over the turbo area correcting all the bolt related problems (too long of bolts used, incorrect bolts, bolts not fastened all the way, etc). Thanks to all those who offered advice. Update: Forgot to mention the banjo bolt filter is now removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Thanks for the update, I guess he put new bolts in with anti-seize compound ? FWIW I put a thread in JmP's sticky up top about fasterners. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmpequeno Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Having same issue, started another thread about it. Tried two impact guns, soaked bolt with wd40, pb blaster and liquid wrench, bolt doesn't move and ended up breaking tps sensor... don't ask me how. After talking with Max I think the turbo was replaced or some work done in that area, maybe someone screw up putting the bolt back in. Waiting for new sensor, car runs like crap, no boost. Still have to try the breaker bar and the hammer or just break the bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny5280 Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 Thanks for the update, I guess he put new bolts in with anti-seize compound ? FWIW I put a thread in JmP's sticky up top about fasterners. I like to provide "closure" in the event someone stumbles across the thread in the future. Nothing more frustrating then finding someone with the same problem you're experiencing but no solution given (assuming there was one). No, he did not put the new bolts in with anti-seize...just properly torqued. The person who put the bolt in prior torqued it down too much...thankfully it was not cross threaded as originally suspected. I am amazed at how someone can mess up so many bolts. Sadly the mechanic said it's common. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny5280 Posted September 16, 2014 Author Share Posted September 16, 2014 Having same issue, started another thread about it. Tried two impact guns, soaked bolt with wd40, pb blaster and liquid wrench, bolt doesn't move and ended up breaking tps sensor... don't ask me how. After talking with Max I think the turbo was replaced or some work done in that area, maybe someone screw up putting the bolt back in. Waiting for new sensor, car runs like crap, no boost. Still have to try the breaker bar and the hammer or just break the bolt. I'm surprised an impact wrench didn't remove / break it. I don't know what method the mechanic used to remove mine but he did say "I almost broke my arm removing it" which suggests breaker bar. Good luck...I was prepared for the worst and it turned out to be a non-issue. Hopefully the same will apply to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmpequeno Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Will find out next weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmpequeno Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 I used max technique and the bolt is free and replaced the banjo bolt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 That trick works, I'm surprised at how hard we hit the breaker bar here at work to break some countersunk screws loose. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny5280 Posted September 17, 2014 Author Share Posted September 17, 2014 I used max technique and the bolt is free and replaced the banjo bolt Excellent! I looked at the pictures and yours definitely looked worse than mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dispatch20 Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Hitting the 1/2" breaker bar with a 5lb hammer while someone is pushing the handle seems to work pretty well, don't be afraid to "HIT" the breaker bar. I'll second this technique. I use it all the time on places I can't get an impact wrench on. Usually on brake caliper bracket bolts. Holding the breaker bar as tight as you can is critical to preventing the sledge from 'bouncing' off it (aside from the benefit of added torque). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny5280 Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 I'll second this technique. I use it all the time on places I can't get an impact wrench on. Usually on brake caliper bracket bolts. Holding the breaker bar as tight as you can is critical to preventing the sledge from 'bouncing' off it (aside from the benefit of added torque). Would a dead blow mallet be as effective? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 No, the one's I've seen have been plastic. 5lbs steel hammer from Harbor Fright. A 3lb ball peen hammer may work too. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmpequeno Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 I used a east wing 3 lbs hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.