Th3crack3r Posted July 31, 2014 Author Share Posted July 31, 2014 Ok got the car back today. They flushed the coolant system using Kleen-flo 8$, added new coolant 42$ (the blue coolant with the conditionner). Total bill with time 485$ !! They did a leak down test in each cylinder and found no leaks. The car is still making bubbles in the overflow tank after a short run, is this normal ? Also, seems like a metal parts got loose in the exhaust, its clunking between the resonator and one of the exhaust every time i touch the gaz pedal. Still don't know where all the oil in the old coolant came from, so I'm letting the car run a little without busting my warranty mileage. Its harder to see oil in the blue coolant.... Anyway, the car still runs fine and right in the middle of the heat gauge. J-F Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 As long as they covered the bill. You got a good deal. You can remove some of the heat shields. I have removed the big one over the midpipe years ago. These cars don't do well idling. They seem to do better if they are driven for long distances. I never let mine idle to warm up before driving it. Even in -20F temps. Also learn how to check your oil and keep it topped off. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noscoobyhere Posted August 2, 2014 Share Posted August 2, 2014 Lgt doesnt have a head gasket issue that I have seen. Subaru recommends its OE coolant to keep deteriaton from happening within the cooling system. All pre 09 subarus got the green subie long life which you dilute 50/50 yourself, and add the coolant conditioner. Post 09 is the pre mixed super coolant, which contains the additive already in the coolant. As long as you use OEM coolant and keep your fluids maintained you SHOULDNT see headgaskets seeping until 150k miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted August 2, 2014 Share Posted August 2, 2014 Ok got the car back today. They flushed the coolant system using Kleen-flo 8$, added new coolant 42$ (the blue coolant with the conditionner). Total bill with time 485$ !! They did a leak down test in each cylinder and found no leaks. The car is still making bubbles in the overflow tank after a short run, is this normal ? Also, seems like a metal parts got loose in the exhaust, its clunking between the resonator and one of the exhaust every time i touch the gaz pedal. Still don't know where all the oil in the old coolant came from, so I'm letting the car run a little without busting my warranty mileage. Its harder to see oil in the blue coolant.... Anyway, the car still runs fine and right in the middle of the heat gauge. J-F If you see bubbles in the overflow after driving and burping then you have head gasket failure. Using the super coolant is not what is spec for this model year. Don't let them smoke you into going over your warranty. Call them on it. I'm getting ready for a motor pull and rebuild after 160K. I don't over heat... It just finally started to leak and that's where I'm parking it to get ready for the rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3crack3r Posted August 2, 2014 Author Share Posted August 2, 2014 When I get home tonight I will post a video I just took of the bubbles in the overflow tank. When cold the level is right above the Low mark ans no bubbles at all. When hot, after a 20 minutes drive, its 1inch from the top with white foam and it looks like boiling water, but its not that hot.... The blue prestone is 4 days old and installed by subaru after a kleen flo flush. I had oil in my old prestone but the leak down test reveiled no leaks... I don t understand why subaru would put the wrong coolant. Jf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 They did a leak down test on the cooling system or the cylinders? Be sure were talking the same terminology because I assumed wrong initially. Were talking bubbles in the over flow tank by the radiator... Not the tank hanging over on the intake IE the highest orifice in your system. Where your supposed to be filling the system with rad cap on after it's filled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3crack3r Posted August 3, 2014 Author Share Posted August 3, 2014 So here is the overflow with the engine running cold, 1" above the LOW mark: http://youtu.be/JKe6eA2I7Ho And here it is 20 minutes later when it is running hot (normal temp) http://youtu.be/2kXKgPg9TsI The car does not loose coolant and runs fine, but something tells me there is something wrong... J-F Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3crack3r Posted August 3, 2014 Author Share Posted August 3, 2014 they did a leak down test in the cylinders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 Ok if this is the case great your heads and pistons are in good shape. But if your motor has been properly burped and is doing this? Put a fork in it they owe you some labor and parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3crack3r Posted August 3, 2014 Author Share Posted August 3, 2014 What do you mean by "put a fork in it" ? Sorry my english isn't that good hehe.. The car got out from the subaru dealer 4 days ago so I believe its been properly burped, and it had oil coming from I don't know where in the old coolant when I bough the car 3 weeks ago. The bubbling was already there... I still have 65 miles left to my warranty. Thanks for your inputs Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 Phrase means it's finished. The procedure to burping the coolant is simple but I seriously doubt the dealer did it correct. So here goes. 1 fill coolant through the over flow tank with rad cap off. 2 once coolant is at the top of the rad cap it. 3 continue to add coolant mix until over flow tank is full. 4 cap over flow tank. 5 place coolant in the radiator over flow to the line. 6 Run the motor for 5 or so min. 7 Let it completely cool down. 8 Open the over flow tank again. Check if more coolant is needed. Add as needed to the top. 9 cap the over flow tank. 10 run the car till at operating temp. 11 let cool completely. 12 open over flow again and see if more coolant is needed. Likely at this stage possibly a little more. 13 once you come to the point where you have no air at the over flow tank you have all the trapped air out of the system... If your still puking air out of the radiator over flow tank... This is where you have to call them on their bluff. You don't have to drive it to get these heat cycles completed but it's for sure best to let it completely cool down each step. This is why I feel the mechanics rush this a bit and don't get completly anal about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lccl Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 Yes, 1. jack up the front passenger side of the car. 2. remove cap from turbo coolant bottle. 3. turn on the motor and idle with heater on high until the radiator fans come on. 4. drop car, refill, repeat until it no longer drops in level. I'm sure Max will chime in if I missed anything. I followed this and let it idle for ever and the radiator fans did nothing. Temp gauge only got to about 1/3. I switched the A/C on and fans kicked right on, but with the just the heater on 85 and full blast the radiator fans stayed off. Do I kick the a/c on for awhile or just the heater? I let it idle for awhile and it seemed stuck at 1/3 up the temp gauge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xplosivo1 Posted August 3, 2014 Share Posted August 3, 2014 I followed this and let it idle for ever and the radiator fans did nothing. Temp gauge only got to about 1/3. I switched the A/C on and fans kicked right on, but with the just the heater on 85 and full blast the radiator fans stayed off. Do I kick the a/c on for awhile or just the heater? I let it idle for awhile and it seemed stuck at 1/3 up the temp gauge How long did you let it idle? When I did this it was in the fall and it took about 20-30 minutes before the fans kicked on the first time. After the initial top-off they came on fairly quickly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noscoobyhere Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 The techs here usually connect their system fully, and use a large funnel that is intended to hold up to half a gallon of coolant, get the vehicle very hot, and let it idle at operating temperature. Then they leave the coolant overnight in the reservoir and it burps itself till the system is full. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 I followed this and let it idle for ever and the radiator fans did nothing. Temp gauge only got to about 1/3. I switched the A/C on and fans kicked right on, but with the just the heater on 85 and full blast the radiator fans stayed off. Do I kick the a/c on for awhile or just the heater? I let it idle for awhile and it seemed stuck at 1/3 up the temp gauge What was the leve this morning after everything cooled overnight ? I carry coolant with me for a few day's, to top off as needed. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lccl Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 How long did you let it idle? When I did this it was in the fall and it took about 20-30 minutes before the fans kicked on the first time. After the initial top-off they came on fairly quickly. Hmm, not quite that long, I'd say 15 minutes on a 75 degree day. Temp gauge didn't seem to move from 1/3 for about the last 5 minutes. I'll try again once it's cooled today and just let it idle for as long as necessary I guess and keep the A/C off correct? What was the leve this morning after everything cooled overnight ? I carry coolant with me for a few day's, to top off as needed. About the same. There is obvious air in there as when it was idling after I kicked the A/C on to get the fans to turn on there was obvious bubbles in the turbo tank coming out. Yesterday, before this, I drove it about 90' to my garage and parked it. When I took off the rad cap from the turbo tank, large pressure release. So that pressure had held in the system overnight, could air do this?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xplosivo1 Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 Hmm, not quite that long, I'd say 15 minutes on a 75 degree day. Temp gauge didn't seem to move from 1/3 for about the last 5 minutes. I'll try again once it's cooled today and just let it idle for as long as necessary I guess and keep the A/C off correct? About the same. There is obvious air in there as when it was idling after I kicked the A/C on to get the fans to turn on there was obvious bubbles in the turbo tank coming out. Yesterday, before this, I drove it about 90' to my garage and parked it. When I took off the rad cap from the turbo tank, large pressure release. So that pressure had held in the system overnight, could air do this?? Correct, No A/C. The pressure builds up because of heat, so if the engine was warmer than it was when you installed the coolant to the time you removed the cap then you can expect a pressure release within reason. When I burped my coolant system, I didn't wait quite as long as I should have to remove the cap and there was a big bubble that sent coolant all over my intake manifold...but that was it for the air pockets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3crack3r Posted August 6, 2014 Author Share Posted August 6, 2014 Bad news, found out that my lower rad hose was leaking, 16$ fix, not that bad. The bad news is that the brand new coolant is not only bubbling, it started to smell exhaust again... I will have to bring the car back to subaru... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3crack3r Posted August 6, 2014 Author Share Posted August 6, 2014 The coolant spilled from the rad overflow after a 50minutes drive, but it was only at the low mark... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 Dude...None of this is normal. Call them of the bluff that they fixed it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3crack3r Posted August 6, 2014 Author Share Posted August 6, 2014 Yeah I know thats not normal... I'm bringing the car back to subaru on monday morning. Damm car hehe, still, I love it. J-F Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 I hate to say it but, HG's. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
illusi0ns2 Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 I bought my 05 LGT last year with just under 65k on it... 2 weeks later... no oil... thankfully I bought it from a Subaru dealer because well they said they'd do an oil change, so it lost about 1 quart every 800 miles, they put a conditioner in it, no change, they did a leak down and it failed.. they ended up putting a new short block in it because of the cracked piston: http://tsedinc.com/piston.jpg I just recently noticed a sound as mentioned behind the dash myself.. have to investigate, got about 25k on the new short block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3crack3r Posted August 11, 2014 Author Share Posted August 11, 2014 Running around with the windows opened, I noticed a clunking sound when engaging a gear. It makes one clunk when the car starts moving, or when I switch gear and start to apply force again. Its not specific to one gear, It also clunk putting it in reverse. I have a little metal part loose in my exhaust making noise randomly so I didn't hear it before... I unscrewed a little my oil pan drain bolt to see if a had water coming out of it. No water in oil, but definitely oil in coolant. Weird. That 2000km old oil was pretty nasty tough. Brought the car to the subaru dealer this morning. They will also check for the brake lines recall. I'll keep you posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3crack3r Posted August 12, 2014 Author Share Posted August 12, 2014 Just got a call from subaru, they are removing/testing the heads and changing both head gaskets, and the seller, honda, is paying for it all under warranty. That is good news ! 105k legacy gt wagon with brand new headgaskets, and I plan on installing a gates belt /water pump kit + thermostat shortly after that using the OEM gasket, as I red that the gates gasket is crap. Gut the up-pipe cat with a resistor fix for the sensor, inspect turbo for shaft play. What else should I do ? The clutch is still in really good condition but will have to be done eventually. how many miles did you put on yours at stock power level ? I will also repair a few rust spots using rattle can paint rust killer, bondo, touch up paint from ebay and a clear + buff. Already did the 3M headlight/fog restoration so they are like new. Might also install rally guard flaps and some RTX turbine 17". Also, I have a loose metal part stuck in my exhaust. Should I remove more than just the rattle ? Resonator ? DP cat ? Do I need new gaskets for the exhaust if I dont remove the DP ? Thanks for your inputs and your help guys. The constant burping of the coolant system saved the engine from overheating... Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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