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Brake Recommendations...Decisions


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I can't upgrade to STI calipers at this time. At my 60K service FW Motorsports advised I should run my brakes till they start squealing.

Since I don't track my LGT, but I like spirited driving, I decided to with this package from KNS.

 

Centric Premium Brake Rotors and Hawk Performance Ceramic Brake Pads 2010 Subaru Legacy Sedan - 2.5 GT - both

 

PLUS

 

Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake Lines 2010 Subaru Legacy Sedan - 2.5 GT - both

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Would anyone recommend Hawk Performance Ceramic pads?

 

Never tried Hawk Ceramics. I had the HPS and they were killer, but weren't totally silent and did dust. I now have the HP 5.0 pads and they are great. Paired them with Centric Premium in the rear, and Stoptech (made by Centric) Slotted in the front. I recommend Centric no matter what, they have never given me "warping" issues (more like deposits) and they hold up well. Hawk makes some of the greatest pads, and I've had them on multiple cars. You really can't go wrong with them; unless you put a race compound on a street car.

 

If you do end up going with the Ceramics, let us know how they work out. I contemplated going with them, but I cook the brakes way too hard (especially on a mountain road going skiing) to be comfortable with them. But I bet they are killer for someone who's fairly aggressive but wants little dust and no noise on their DD.

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I like that the Hawk Ceramics HB671 Z are called Touring pads. I just want something that will manage those WTF panic stops on I-95 with as little noise and dust as possible. Going to shop around for competitive pricing.
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I see that Perscitus has Hawk Ceramics according to his build thread, and since he's making more power than most I think I will give them a shot. Maybe he can give his thoughts on them. I'll go KNS brake kit with Centric Premiums, Hawk Ceramics, S/S brake lines, and 5.1 Brake fluid. Should be more than adequate for my DD, that will never see the track.
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I see that Perscitus has Hawk Ceramics according to his build thread, and since he's making more power than most I think I will give them a shot. Maybe he can give his thoughts on them. I'll go KNS brake kit with Centric Premiums, Hawk Ceramics, S/S brake lines, and 5.1 Brake fluid. Should be more than adequate for my DD, that will never see the track.

 

The 5.0 should be a better Hawk pad.

 

Pretty much any pad, made for your car, is going to work for street duty. And, that isn't saying much. If you want more bite than OE, you will have to step up to louder pads. There is nothing quiet that will work for you short of swapping to Brembos.

 

I ran DBA rotors, Hawk pads, and steel braided lines. There was only a slightly better feel than OE.

 

A few laps at the track and I had major fade. Lesson learned.

"It's within spec" - SOA :rolleyes:

"Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism

"So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable :lol:." - Stephen (very close friend)

"You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics

 

2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek

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The 5.0 should be a better Hawk pad.

 

Pretty much any pad, made for your car, is going to work for street duty. And, that isn't saying much. If you want more bite than OE, you will have to step up to louder pads. There is nothing quiet that will work for you short of swapping to Brembos.

 

I ran DBA rotors, Hawk pads, and steel braided lines. There was only a slightly better feel than OE.

 

A few laps at the track and I had major fade. Lesson learned.

 

Hawk ceramic are probably best bet for daily. If you want more fade resistance/bite step it up a level (but as stated - tracking the car is opening a whole new can of worms).

 

I bedded in my new rotors with Hawk 5.0s and did MANY HARD stops from 90-15 in a row. I came to the light (off the brakes of course) and they were smoking like all hell. No fade from the pads, but I experienced "green fade" - the fluid definitely took a beating. I have been very happy with them (and always have been as my last pair of Hawk HPS lasted my 60k miles).

 

I would check with site sponsor (forgot who it is - but they are local to the East Coast) and can get you a good price. Next would be Tirerack and Rockauto. I actually used auto anything to get my setup. I had them match Tirerack pricing on Hawk pads with free shipping, and the rotors were on sale already. See what you can do (use the online chat and have them price match).

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Just ordered full set of the Hawk Ceramics but won't be installed till early spring with new DBA front rotors that I have sitting around, fluid flush and probably new brake lines.

 

Now onto struts, shocks and springs. :)

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Hawk Performance Sector 27 Brake Rotors? Thoughts? Reviews? Found a really good deal on Auto Anything for all four with Hawk HPS 5.0 Pads. Let me know. Thanks for the info mhoran89...

 

No problem man. I'm definitely not on here enough but when I am I'm always here to help out!

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  • 2 weeks later...
Has anyone tried ATE SL.6 brake fluid?

 

I was just reading the breakdown of my 60K service and that's what FW Motorsports used for the brake flush.

 

No, but I use ATE Type200 in the GT currently and used ATE SuperBlue before it was deemed illegal in the US because of the blue color.

 

Looks like the SL.6 will work perfectly fine and if FW is using it, it should be plenty good for street duty. I will probably use this in the Forester.

 

http://www.ate-na.com/www/ate_us_en/themes/20_ate_brake_products/brake_fluid/bf_info_us.html

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I only sourced amazon. [emoji15]

 

Thanks. Looks like I'll be ordering brakes, rotors and SS lines soon

 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

Actually I missed the shipping cost, it is about $23 to your door, but that's all you need, just one liter.

 

The Type200 seems to be a little less, might as well get it since it's a higher boiling point and wet boiling point.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATE-DOT-4-TYP-200-Brake-Fluid-High-Boiling-Point-amber-color-706202-/121557175710?hash=item1c4d5f4d9e:g:nm0AAOSwxYxUytzY&vxp=mtr

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I guess the $20 on amazon isn't too bad with free prime shipping

 

It maybe a little OCDish...but I'd stick with what's already in the lines.

 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

You're gonna have to bleed the whole system quite a bit with a brake line replacement so 99% of the fluid will be new anyway.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Rotors and pads are in. Just waiting on the SS lines. Any tricks for installing the Goodridge lines? I've done them in my Motorcycle two banjo bolts on both ends with copper washers. Easy peasy...

 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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Rotors and pads are in. Just waiting on the SS lines. Any tricks for installing the Goodridge lines? I've done them in my Motorcycle two banjo bolts on both ends with copper washers. Easy peasy...

 

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

These are banjo on one end and flare fitting on the other.

 

You need a high quality flare nut wrench, no cheap Harbor Freight units, 10mm I think, for the flare nuts at the body side of the brake lines. These 4 connections will be the most challenging of the job, simply because you really don't want to fock them up. Before you try to break them loose, place vise grip pliers tight over the wrench end to keep it from spreading open as you put pressure on it. If it spreads, you will round off the flare nut quickly and then you are relegated to carefully putting the vise grips directly on the flare nut and risk crushing it.

 

I did mine at 15k miles. The first one broke loose easily, the second one broke my cheap HF flare nut wrench and started to round off. I moved on to the 3rd and 4th and with both I used the vise grip over the new higher quality wrench I bought at the auto parts store. Both broke free and cleanly, but it took some effort. I went back to number 2 and had to carefully use the vise grip to break it loose, which was not ideal but worked without deforming it or completely destroying it.

 

Hope this helps buddy!

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