azi Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 If I still had my 2.5i, I would upgrade to the LGT or 3.6r setup as a first step. i've been playing with that idea in my head for a while now - wouldnt that be too much braking power for a 2.5? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 No car can ever have too much braking power if you enjoy spirited driving. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted July 1, 2014 Share Posted July 1, 2014 i've been playing with that idea in my head for a while now - wouldnt that be too much braking power for a 2.5? No. It is a very economical way to get bigger brakes. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bdog22 Posted October 23, 2014 Author Share Posted October 23, 2014 Finally got around to starting the job today, car is jacked but them darn 17MM bolts for the caliper just will not loosen up. Any thoughts or ideas? I don't have PB Buster as I have read about around here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slider Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 PB Blaster would definitely help. Spray on and let sit for a bit. It's probably worth picking up a can. On another note, I was turned off on Centric after reading about the manufacturing differences between the rotors made in China and the ones made in Taiwan. I'm sure you can guess which you'd prefer. http://i.imgur.com/47kK1ap.png http://i.imgur.com/hQd5cJq.png http://i.imgur.com/jdTuxfS.png Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bdog22 Posted October 23, 2014 Author Share Posted October 23, 2014 Finally managed to get them off, had to use a homemade breaker bar. Unfortunately a bit late for this post. All of mine are from China. Now for the nut that holds the rotor in... tips? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bdog22 Posted October 23, 2014 Author Share Posted October 23, 2014 Never mind, got it. Needed the M8 Metric bolts to pull it off. Stopped and got me some PB Buster for the other side. Now to reinstall it all... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bdog22 Posted October 25, 2014 Author Share Posted October 25, 2014 Brakes are all done just did the fronts since the pads still had 50% on them on the front, no need to deal with the rear if I didn't have to. Many thanks to KNS and every here for the recommendations. I went with the Hawk Ceramics and the Centric Premium rotors. I've followed all directions here to brake them in and am very pleased so far. Appreciate the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyleap007 Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 Brakes are all done just did the fronts since the pads still had 50% on them on the front, no need to deal with the rear if I didn't have to. Many thanks to KNS and every here for the recommendations. I went with the Hawk Ceramics and the Centric Premium rotors. I've followed all directions here to brake them in and am very pleased so far. Appreciate the help! Just did that identical combo a few months ago. Very pleased. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 Reviving this thread as I need to get front rotors before track days. I can replace all 4 if going with a different brand. I am currently using DBA 4000 T3 rotors all around with Carbotech xp10 and xp8 F/R. Is there a better OEM fitment rotor out there for heavy/continuous use than the DBA 4000 T3 rotor? If so, what pads work great with that rotor? "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadTrainDriver Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 Reviving this thread as I need to get front rotors before track days. I can replace all 4 if going with a different brand. I am currently using DBA 4000 T3 rotors all around with Carbotech xp10 and xp8 F/R. Is there a better OEM fitment rotor out there for heavy/continuous use than the DBA 4000 T3 rotor? If so, what pads work great with that rotor? According to KNS Brakes, the DBA T3 Clubspec 4000 is as good as it gets. That's what I have, without a single complaint, but I don't do track days...just occasional mildly aggressive driving on curvy roads. You could call Ken at KNS Brakes and see if he has any other info not listed on his site. I've talked with him a few times and he's a hell of a nice guy. Off topic question: Are you using any type of oil/fluid temp gauge setup while tracking the 3.6 or 5EAT? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 Nope. I am relying on the idiot lights. I did search google for rotors and listed from highest to lowest price. DBA sells a higher level rotor but for $350. EBS sells something similar. I will contact Ken, but I will also contact DBA. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyin Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 I'm at 70K on my stock brakes, 2.5i. I'm feeling a little shimmy when they get warm. I'm ready to go with new rotors and would like to use the LGT/3.6 fronts. Is there an adapter to use my stock caliper or is getting matching calipers the only way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 I'm at 70K on my stock brakes, 2.5i. I'm feeling a little shimmy when they get warm. I'm ready to go with new rotors and would like to use the LGT/3.6 fronts. Is there an adapter to use my stock caliper or is getting matching calipers the only way? I will guess that you will need calipers as well. You should bring up parts diagrams for the 2.5i and 3.6r and compare every single part and find the differences. This is a great budget upgrade for your 2.5 "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redstriker Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 I have DBA 4000s slotted rotors on the front and flat surfaced rotors on the rear with Hawk HPS pad all around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 This is gonna be a double post, but it should be here: Put a call in to DBA USA and to KNS brakes. With stock sizing, recommendation from KNS is to stick with the T3 4000 series and swap to xp12/xp10 F/R (currently running xp10/xp8 F/R) I ordered a pair of backup front T3 4000 rotors (have some heat check cracks on mine) and carbotech xp12/xp10 pads. DBA USA tells me the 5000 weighs about 2# to 3# less per corner than the 4000 and has slightly better heat dissipation. The guy suggested removing the dust shields and getting some brake ducting and then maybe trying the 5000. I will do the shields first unless anyone has a good reason not to remove the shields. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 Quick brake update. Kns recommended not removing the shilds unless I wrap the bearings and a few other things. I will leave them alone. Stopped at Borrelli Motorsports to talk about ducting. It is possible and would take a full day $1000+ of time and fab and test. He asked me if I am getting any fade. I said no. He said not to worry about the little heat checks on the rotor until they combine into larger ones. Recommendation was for me to run my new rotors and xp12 pads for a track day with late braking to see if I get any fade. He wouldnt recommend ducting unless I was getting any sort of fade. Although, he would be happy to do it. He raced his mustang for 3 years before adding any ducting and said the brakes would be super hot regardless and recommended better cool down at the end of sessions. That ducting would reduce/prevent fade...which I am not seeing. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhoran89 Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 Ok, I've tried to search the site and got a few good leads, but would like to get your thoughts before I pull the trigger on this one. I have 40K on my 2012 2.5i Legacy. It is my commuter car, I don't need anything fancy, but always look to do it right when I do any work on the car. At this point I'm figuring I may give the calibers a paint when I get them off, just cause I like the look and why not as I have never done this before. Then to tackle the breaks. Looking at full rotor and pad replacement and have 2 options. From the site it looks like HPS pads are the most common along with Centric premium rotors. Priced HPS/Centric - AutoAnything.com - $365 Other option I found was PowerStopBrakeKit - Full 4 rotors and Pads http://www.autoaccessoriesgarage.com/Brakes/Power-Stop-Brake-Kit Open to other options, but not replacing the calibers or anything too crazy. Watching budget, but more focused on doing it right and making sure the pads will last. Finally, any good write-ups or videos on the change. I've done a brake job before on an 1987 Jetta, but it has been a while and obviously not on a newer auto. Thanks everyone! More than satisfied with Centric Premium Rotors and Hawk HPS pads. Had them on both cars I have owned. They are a tad bit dusty (but I beat on it) and are virtually silent with great bite and they won't fade like the stockers when pushing the car. Just my $0.02. There are vendors on here that sell Hawk for a great price as well! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 These are the heat check surface cracks to which I was referring. They are supposedly still okay if I stay with the previous xp10s I was running. Going to xp12s makes it a good idea to get new rotors and not risk breaking something on the track. I was very concerned at first. But, they have pretty much stayed the same with street pads. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssbtech Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 ++1 for: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51nzdNAmQ8L._SX385_.jpg I've read some reviews that this will cause the boots on the slide pins to swell. Any truth in that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GhiaAddict Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 For my 3.6R I just intend on upgrading to ceramic pads, s/s brake lines and better brake fluid. Will most likely run lifetime warranty discs from local auto parts store. Figure it won't see a real track day ever, so just want better pedal feel (lines and fluid) and better bite (most likely carbotechs). Yet I'm pretty sure the setup would feel and respond well on a track day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 Factory pads are ceramic iirc, who has lifetime warranty on rotors? Most stores have 90 day and 1 year warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GhiaAddict Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 Factory pads are ceramic iirc, who has lifetime warranty on rotors? Most stores have 90 day and 1 year warranty. Well I haven't owned a car in over 6 years so things have changed apparently. I see the O'Reilly Auto parts has 2 years limited warranty. But figured S/S brake lines with good ceramic pads on OE replacement rotors should be more than enough for spirited driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 if/when I upgrade to Brembo calipers, I'll stick to non drilled/slotted rotors. Was thinking the Centric ones look good My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted January 25, 2016 Share Posted January 25, 2016 Well I haven't owned a car in over 6 years so things have changed apparently. I see the O'Reilly Auto parts has 2 years limited warranty. But figured S/S brake lines with good ceramic pads on OE replacement rotors should be more than enough for spirited driving. If you're willing to deal with a little dust, Carbotech Bobcat or XP8 pads on the stock rotors, paired with SS lines, would be highly capable for spirited driving, even for track or autocross. I am still running my stock front calipers and rotors and they are great with Carbotechs. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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