SpecBamf41 Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 LOOK AT POST 19 FOR SCARY PHOTO. Got my car back after almost 3 weeks at the shop for a bumper repaint and the srs airbag system was having issues. Only issue that i had with the work done is they forgot to plug my hazard switch in so my blinkers dont work. But like anyone would do after not haveing there legacy for 3 weeks. I went for a cruise around charleston. No issues. This morning i start the car. Let it warm up. Smoke. Get in and my cel is on and cruise is flashing. Pull cobb out. ****. Idle didnt sound bad. Car ran fine. Didnt kick it very much though on the way to base. I run ams oil 5w30 sig ser. I just reached the end of my oil change interval for the first time which is 5000 miles. I have new ams filter and oil in the trunk. Was gonna change its today after work. While im in the shop what can i do today. Drop the dp and check the turbo to be safe? Or not just yet. Pull the screens out of the banjos? Buy a new longblock? Gt45r swap? Sitting in the parking lot i just decided to start it back up and listen to the turbo. Normal. And also the lights are gone. Ahhhhhhh Im gonna take an oil sample and send it off for testing. Who should i send it too? Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk BNR18g on 93oct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 Blackstone labs, they will send you a free sample kit for the oil. Smoke, what kind of smoke ? oil smoke or white vapor from the cold exhaust pipes and hot exhaust gas ? How many miles on the turbo ? With that CEL you should flush the oil system and change the oil and filter. P0011 is the passenger side OCV. You may want to pull it and make sure its clean and free moving. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RallyMachine Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 I wouldn't touch amsoil product with a 30' pole for these cars at least. I was running full SAPS Euro 5w-40 and one of their oil filters when my car started chugging 1 quart every 1k. It didn't before I ran it and still does it to this day even with rotella T6. Also had my center diff transfer shaft bearings go out when running their 75w90 severe gear, been fine ever since with extra-s. Also, based on specs I've seen online amsoil oil filters do not have the correct bypass pressure setting for our cars. But besides that oil rant I would follow Max Capacity's recommendation and check/replace ocv. Has the banjo bolt been removed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBamf41 Posted June 6, 2014 Author Share Posted June 6, 2014 Ovc? And not shure about the banjo bolt Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk BNR18g on 93oct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RallyMachine Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 Oil control valve. From what has been said around here they sound generally be replaced by 90k miles. They're just solenoids on top and front of both cylinder heads by the intake cam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 Bank 1 OCV is on the rear of the passenger side head. Bank 2 OCV is on the front of the drivers side head. http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ For more other info... check the sticky at the top of the fourums. Also colvertrussian has some great photos in his threads. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 RallyMachine, I use Amsoils E15K13 filter, which is what HAMMERDOWN told me to use. I know you hate to this, but both my cars run that oil at 7-8000 miles OCI. I have gone back to Extra-S for the tranny's and diff's. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 Oil control valve. From what has been said around here they sound generally be replaced by 90k miles. They're just solenoids on top and front of both cylinder heads by the intake cam. Yup, super easy to take out -- Just unbolt and pull! Installation is reverse (Per FSM. ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RallyMachine Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 RallyMachine, I use Amsoils E15K13 filter, which is what HAMMERDOWN told me to use. I know you hate to this, but both my cars run that oil at 7-8000 miles OCI. I have gone back to Extra-S for the tranny's and diff's. I don't want hijack the thread but just wanted to share this. It was posted by a user with 2 post in the Tokyo roki thread so take it with a grain of salt, but it seems legit. Oil filters for new Subaru engines (FB). Original (Tokyo Roki) filters (23 psid, thickness can 0.44mm): - 15208AA160 (slim): 2.76x 3.41, 1092 cm2 - 15208AA130 (big): 3.19x2.91, 1240cm2 (that is why only 15208AA130 for Subaru BRZ 2013/2014) I have found some non-original synthetic (with advanced filtration efficiency) filters (I looked only models with height more than 3”): 1) AMSOIL (11-17 psid, 9-11gpm, 98.7% at 20u, 99% at 25u, thikness can 0.55mm): EA15K13 (former EA013): 2.65x 3.40i (Diameter x Height) Ea15K20 (former EAO20) : 3.12 x3.08 2) Royal Purple (11-17 psid, 9-11gpm, 99% at 25u, thickness can 0.46mm): 10-2867 : 2.67x3.35 10-2808 : 3.14x3.08 3) Wix/Napa (8-11 psid, 9-11gpm, 50% at 20u) , thickness can 0.35mm 51356xp/41356 Platinum 2.68x3.40 51334XP/41334 Platinum 3.25x3.19 And models of non-synthetic filters: 51064 2.98 x 3.23 16 psi 51568 3.23x4.072 16 psi 51344 3.24x4.07 57712 : 2.68x2.58, 23 psid, only for EJ engines (thread location of bypass valve) 57830 : 3.29x3,00, 28 psid, for FB engines, 57055 : 2.57x3.40 , 27psid, for FB engines. 4) Purolator Pure One (99.9% at 40u) and Purolator Synthetic (99% at 25u), 9-11 gpm,thickness can 0.35mm: PL14615 : 2.69 x 2.93, 16-28 psid PL14459 and PSL14459 : 3.15x2.95, 12-15 psid PL14620 (former PL14610) and PSL14610 (PSL14610) 2.69x3.52, 14-18 psid Pl24458 : 3.15 x 3.94, 12-15 PSID PL14460 : 3.15x2.95 , 20-25 PSID, without ADBV 5) Bosch Distance Plus (99.9% at 40u) and Bosch Long life (both made by Purolator), 9-11 gpm, thickness can 0.35mm: D3312: 3.36x3.00 , 12-15psid D3323: 2.69x3.52, 12-15psid 6) Mobil-1 (11-17 PSID, 99% at 25u), 9-11 gpm, thickness can 0.46mm M1-104 : 3.14 x3.08 M1-110: 2.67x3.35 7) K&N (11-17 psid, 99% at 25u), 9-11 gpm, thickness can 0.46,, HP1004: 3.16x3.4 HP1010: 2.69x3.75 8) AFE 44LF018 N (11-17 psid, 99% at 25u), thickness can 0.46,, None of the aftermarket filter options listed have the correct bypass pressure setting of 23psi. This causes your oil to be circulating throughout the engine unfiltered at pressure much less than intended. I'm sure hammerdown doesn't have issues because he also uses 2 external/overflow filters as well. I'm not trying to hate on anything people use in their cars, just more of a "buyer beware". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gex Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 The wix 57712 filter has the correct bypass pressure rating. That must be an old list. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RallyMachine Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 The wix 57712 filter has the correct bypass pressure rating. That must be an old list. Yeah looks like that one was left off this list, and I don't think it was meant to be a comprehensive list. I was just using it to illustrate the difference between OEM pressure and the amsoil options. You are correct though, it looks like the wix 57712 has the correct bypass pressure setting. Good info. Edit: Actually the 57712 is on the list under non-synthetic filters for wix and does have the correct bypass pressure listed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 Just got this off a post by BOBISTHEOILGUY. If you do lots of *cold* starting, especially in the winter, or seldom change your filter, I think you're better off with a lower bypass setting. However, with few exceptions, bypass pressures for spin-on filters run in the 8 to 17 psi range, and any of them should work acceptably. From here, http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=309756 I just did a web search, may be something has changed since that was posted. This might be a good thread on its own ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 Your turbo may have been starved for oil, I would drop the dp and check for excessive shaft play. These journal turbos are absolute garbage...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RallyMachine Posted June 7, 2014 Share Posted June 7, 2014 Just got this off a post by BOBISTHEOILGUY. If you do lots of *cold* starting, especially in the winter, or seldom change your filter, I think you're better off with a lower bypass setting. However, with few exceptions, bypass pressures for spin-on filters run in the 8 to 17 psi range, and any of them should work acceptably. From here, http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=309756 I just did a web search, may be something has changed since that was posted. This might be a good thread on its own ? Here's some more info on that... I would just be concerned about it opening up at anything than under WOT pulls allowing unfiltered oil to circulate in the engine. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1410171#Post1410171 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBamf41 Posted June 8, 2014 Author Share Posted June 8, 2014 The banjo bolt is a bit of a pain to get to. Unless where not talking about the one at the T. But i was under the impression that the one at the tee is the only one with a filter. I removed the support bracket and tried removeing the sensor in the uppipe and that was not moving at all. Then is started raining and i wrapped it up and went inside. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk BNR18g on 93oct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 have you read this, http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2-5gt-turbo-oil-supply-banjo-bolt-filter-removal-62371.html Don't mess with the egt probe in the up pipe, when it comes time just replace the up pipe. here's where the banjo with the filter goes. You do have a 05-06 don't you ? http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4769.jpg 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBamf41 Posted June 8, 2014 Author Share Posted June 8, 2014 Im just nervous to drive it more then i need to. I wish i had a replacement uppipe so i could just swap them while i change the banjo bolt out. Do you recommend removing the filter or keeping it there. who do you guys use for your oil testing services? Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk BNR18g on 93oct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 I have both filters removed from my wagon. I know HAMMERDOWN has both removed too. We both use Amsoil and their filters, he's on a two stage external oil filter system. I'm stock. 7000-8000 OCI. Don't try that OCI until you lab test. Blackstone Labs is who most of us use. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBamf41 Posted June 21, 2014 Author Share Posted June 21, 2014 Look at this photo. 108 thousand miles. Scary. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/21/y4eheru5.jpg Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk BNR18g on 93oct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FknBoss Posted June 21, 2014 Share Posted June 21, 2014 Leave em out. Make your own or buy a kit that filters the oil to the turbo. Earls makes one in 4an it's like 60 bucks. And you just make up your own line. That's what I'm doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBamf41 Posted June 21, 2014 Author Share Posted June 21, 2014 i left them out. its a dumb design. if all this so called dirty oil that may get to the turbo can flow though my mains and rods, then im ok with it flowing though my turbo. plus i always wanted a good reason to swap in a vf52 when the time comes. BNR18g on 93oct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBamf41 Posted July 12, 2014 Author Share Posted July 12, 2014 here is my oil report from before i pulled the filter06 SPEC B-061514.pdf BNR18g on 93oct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FknBoss Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 You don't have to add oil in 7800 miles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FknBoss Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 What does the test cost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBamf41 Posted July 12, 2014 Author Share Posted July 12, 2014 let me put it this way. i bought 5 quarts of oil and never needed to buy anymore for 7800 miles. i was a little low when i changed it. and the test is 25 bucks from blackstone labs just go there BNR18g on 93oct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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