Moderators BarManBean Posted June 19, 2014 Moderators Share Posted June 19, 2014 correct. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 So what is the normal spring rate on the RCE's? I bought mine from KAOS22B. Im finally going to install them this week. Mine have about 40K on them. Im taking a risk but not getting them rebuilt before installation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted September 23, 2014 Moderators Share Posted September 23, 2014 I wanna say they are 400/400. Not getting them rebuilt, huh? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 I just looked at my old PM's where I purchased them. KAOS thought they were fine and didn't need a rebuild, and he also thought they were 400/400 should be a better ride than my BC/BR with pillow ball hard top hats VS the RCE and the spec B rubber top hats Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 Thanks! I'll give it a try tomorrow side note. RCE T1s feel absolutely wonderful on the recommended daily settings. Had them sitting in the garage since last winter and really regret not installing them on earlier... what are the recommended daily settings? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Code Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 Have any of you run the mixed 400f/500r setup? I ordered new springs in this config. I can't wait to get them on the car. "Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 7, 2015 Moderators Share Posted May 7, 2015 What made you choose that setup? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted May 7, 2015 Author Share Posted May 7, 2015 With my 6 speed torque split and clutch type rear diff I'm pretty happy with the 400/400 balance -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subawang Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 Actually, I just got in some rear swift springs as well. So same 400f/500r rates. I'm hoping it will improve the push that I seem to always be fighting. BTW, what sway bars are you running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Code Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 I'm running 22f/20r white line bars. I went with the 500lb rears after a conversation with Myles. I thought that the rears felt under sprung. He explained to me that because of the Multilink design it would cause a little more action than the front strut style. The heavier spring would help that, and aid turn-in. "Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 Just so you guys know, there is a point where you need to leave the rear spring alone and only increase the front rates. the cars roll stiffness need to be at the front of the car, more than the rear. For those of you who think they are under-steering, and already have the right tires, a larger bar up front with some toe out and more negative camber will help turn in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subawang Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 True that whitetiger. But the motion ratio on the rear of the LGT is pretty low, hence why theoretically we need to have more rate in the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 yes, if you look at it on its own. but when you take the whole chassis in to account. you want more stiffness at the front. to make up some numbers as an example... if the rear spring rate is 400 and on the multilink, the effective rate at the wheel is 325(this is a made up number). So a 400/400 isnt technically balanced, but that's ok since you want more roll stiffness at the front. For people running a 400/500 will have a more balanced rate accross the car, but since most of the weight and roll/dive occurs at the front, that may be the incorrect ratio for proper grip balance. When i had my legacy, i was running a 650F/700R setup for autox. Sounds super stiff right? But the balance was wrong. The rear should have stayed at 500lb to allow some compliance to keep the wheels on the ground. the rear was way to stiff and i had to run no rear bar to compensate because not enough weight transfer was occurring to maximize grip. i learned the hard way that these cars want more stiffness at the front than at the rear, but with a stiff enough rear that you dont lift a front wheel on acceleration out of a turn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Code Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 I also have a pair of 500lb front springs just in case I have an issue. "Striving to better, oft we mar what's well." - Bill Shakespeare - car modder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 7, 2015 Moderators Share Posted May 7, 2015 I know that with 400/400s and 25mmF/22mmR sway bars (hollow) I lifted a rear wheel at boxerfest autox. I'm inexperienced and a shitty driver, so maybe I can prevent that in the future by improving the driver input, but from my understanding stiffening up the rear springs would only make the issue worse? "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 yes. you lifted the rear wheel because the front springs are too soft. the car dove and pivoted over the inside front/outside rear wheel on to the outside front wheel. because you have a stiff bar in the back, the inside rear was prevented from drooping to keep the wheel on the ground. So you can either run less bar in the rear, or more spring force in the front. I would also soften the rebound of the shock in the rear to help get that inside rear wheel to rebound faster, but that will only be a band-aid. the best thing would be to increase the front spring to 500lb or even 550lb to control forward weight transfer. This is all assuming your tires are adequate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 7, 2015 Moderators Share Posted May 7, 2015 yes. you lifted the rear wheel because the front springs are too soft. the car dove and pivoted over the inside front/outside rear wheel on to the outside front wheel. because you have a stiff bar in the back, the inside rear was prevented from drooping to keep the wheel on the ground. So you can either run less bar in the rear, or more spring force in the front. I would also soften the rebound of the shock in the rear to help get that inside rear wheel to rebound faster, but that will only be a band-aid. the best thing would be to increase the front spring to 500lb or even 550lb to control forward weight transfer. This is all assuming your tires are adequate. My tires probably stick for actual track time or even autocross (235 MPSSs). I may or may not remedy that--dedicated track wheels/tires would mean 3 full sets for an Outback that has done two events in the last 12 months If I think it's possible to do at least a few events a year I'll upgrade tires I guess. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 dont need track wheels/tires. just change out the MPSS's for Bridgestone RE-71R. They are the bee's knees and a 200tw street tire. So they will last a year or 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted May 7, 2015 Moderators Share Posted May 7, 2015 dont need track wheels/tires. just change out the MPSS's for Bridgestone RE-71R. They are the bee's knees and a 200tw street tire. So they will last a year or 2 Also considering something like that when the MPSSs wear out. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 Not something like that....THAT. the RE-71R is the pinnacle of autox street tires. So sticky, people are calling it hoosierstones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpmarky Posted April 18, 2017 Share Posted April 18, 2017 bump from the dead, how's everyone's tarmacs holding up? Mine are still as comfy as the day I got them. 4 yrs and ~50k miles later it doesn't feel like I need a rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted April 18, 2017 Share Posted April 18, 2017 ^only a shock dyno will verify that. short of a full seal blow-out, you probably are experiencing a damping force change due to wear, and are just driving around it. at that mileage id send them regardless of what i thought i was feeling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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