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Clutch started slipping. Deciding on replacement.


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My stock clutch has been slipping more and more. So far only in high boost sport sharp but I suspect sport mode will be slipping soon.

 

I'm currently custom stage 2 tune. I will be replacing stock turbo with either a vf52 or 16g shortly.

 

Would best bet still be oem clutch for 20 psi or do on a 16g?

 

 

I have 85k on the oem clutch. 2008 5 speed.

 

Being as I am a retailer of all major clutch brands I can of course get a great deal but it is my daily driver not weekend car. I don't want any chatter or anything like that and if oem will hold stage 3 power that will be fine for me.

 

I don't want to get it if I will risk slipping it however.

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I thought you had another thread about this,

 

I enjoy my Spec 2 clutch in my wagon. Not sure I'd do a the LWFW again, but the clutch has 30,000 miles, has never chattered once.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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I think Max is one a the few with good results with the Spec's clutch.

 

Mine is squealing alot when engaging (friction point) and is making alot of noise while going downhill with the gear still engaged. A friend of mine on his stg2 setup ditched his spec clutch because it was slipping (brand new).

 

On my part it grabs fine (vf52 with OEM SMFW + spec stg2 clutch) but will not use spec clutch anymore. I think I can count on my fingers how many positive reviews I saw on the net.

 

You may be good with one but thought you should know about the bad scenarios.

 

GL

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Yeah I definitely don't want any added noises. So if oem will hold I'll go that way.

I can get the comp clutch with flywheel ridiculously cheap but that I'm sure would have some chattering and all unfortunately.

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I don't understand, if Spec is such a bad clutch, why are they still in business.

 

IMO it must be a install error.

 

I wipe the friction surface's with Acetone and install the clutch. A small dab of grease in the pilot bearing ID and tranny snout where the TOB slides. It's not rocket science.

 

I have read that people complane about ACT's for being hard to push in the clutch pedal.

 

I'm sure more will chime out.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Yeah I'm trying to keep mine very quiet. So far only have a catted downpipe with all other exhaust stock. Debating a Borla catback but need to hear it in person to see if it's quiet enough for me.

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Moddiction Stainless steel and Titanium shift knobs.

Drivetrain, suspension, brakes, exhaust, cooling, fuel, gauges+MUCH more!

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Any noise on yours?

 

Can anyone comment on if oem will handle 16g/vf52 power levels for extended time?

 

 

See my sig

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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My second OE clutch was the best I've had in terms of longevity. Had a Spec Stage 1 which I liked but did not last that long. I currently have an ACT HD-SS, I completely LOATH this clutch. My engine is out at the moment (head gaskets) and I have a Clutch Masters FX300 ready to go in.

 

I've installed everything from OE, Exedy, ACT,....and the Clutch Masters has been the most liked by all of my clients.

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NO. I would never put a stock clutch in any car, let alone one of these.

 

My wagon has the Spec 2 currently. 32,000 miles never chattered once. Has been flawless since I put it in.

 

Again I don't understand why most folks don't use them.

 

It will make a slight whine noise in 1st gear sometimes but that's just because of the material. Nothing to worry about. The Spec 2+ was a little louder in 1st gear. I called Spec and that's what they said, nothing to worry about.

 

As much as I hate the LWFW sometimes, I also like it, and the ability to replace its friction surface for $80.00.

 

We used to have a drag racing buddy that worked at Spec. They did a great job getting me the LWFW when I needed one the next day.

 

Long story; the dealer was rebuilding my 5mt at 72,000 miles, I told them while its out I want to replace the clutch but didn't want a stock set up. I already had the Spec 2+. Dealer called me at 10AM, gave me a short window to get a FW when they pulled the tranny and oem clutch and found the oem FW had heat cracks.

I called my son and told him the problem, I needed a FW to go with the Spec 2+ clutch. He called his Honda draging buddy Danny Smith at Spec. Come to find out the LWFW for the LegacyGT's was being released for another week. He asked the Spec Engineers what could they do. One of them had the one they had just finished testing, he cleaned it up, made sure it had a new friction surface and overnighted it the the dealer. That all took less then one hour. I had to call the dealer back by noon or they would have a oem one overnighted.

 

That LWFW now has 112,000 miles on it.

 

That was all back in jun07 if I recall.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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a absolutely love my exedy stg 1. holds 320 wtq from a vf52 no problem. it feels almost identical to oem, if not a little better in pedal travel. it's smooth as a nut and no squeaks, no noise.

 

How many miles on it?

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I'll never buy another Spec clutch. They labeled my clutch disc backwards, which led to a week's worth of headaches. Another member on here had the same problem.

 

A friend used a Spec in his 120hp Volvo wagon. The clutch disc blew apart in a month after his stock disc lasted 150k miles.

 

In those cases Spec's customer service basically said "oh well, later".

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I have a ACT 6 puck in my car has about 1100 miles on it. My car is stage 4 and the clutch only chatters on a very very cold day for about 2 minutes until it warms up. I'm running a HTA68 and about 400 to the wheels with e85.

 

By far the best clutch i had and got it off amazon for $700 shipped. The pedal isn't very hard at all and i daily drive it.

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  • 6 months later...

Really seems like there are no good all around clutches for this car. All seem to have a downfall. Really odd. With my S2000 I have been running oem clutch disc and ACT pressure plate for 65-70k miles now holding over 400whp. Zero noise, drives and engages exactly like stock. Very slightly stiffer feel.

 

Anyone use an oem disc with after market pressure plate and oem flywheel to hold a little more power?

 

I don't want any added chatter and it seems that most of the after market clutch discs last a pathetically short time. I am currently running stock Vf46 turbo with a 20 psi high boost and 16 psi middle boost setting. High boost clutch slips a little bit occasionally.

WWW.MODDICTION.COM

Moddiction Stainless steel and Titanium shift knobs.

Drivetrain, suspension, brakes, exhaust, cooling, fuel, gauges+MUCH more!

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I was reading about spec clutch and most others seemed to have a lot of noise or really early failures etc. just find it weird there is no go to clutch.

 

Guess the oem/ACT pp combo is a blessing for S2000. Never slipped in 65-70k miles and still going strong.

 

Wonder if oem clutch disc and act PP would work in legacy as well.

WWW.MODDICTION.COM

Moddiction Stainless steel and Titanium shift knobs.

Drivetrain, suspension, brakes, exhaust, cooling, fuel, gauges+MUCH more!

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I wouldn't want to be the first one to find out.

 

I don't understand why people have trouble with clutches.

 

I wipe the metal surfaces of the FW and PP with Acetone, put a little grease on the splines, snout for the TOB and install.

 

My old Spec 2+ was installed by the dealership, it was still going strong at 85,000 miles.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I wouldn't want to be the first one to find out.

 

I don't understand why people have trouble with clutches.

 

I wipe the metal surfaces of the FW and PP with Acetone, put a little grease on the splines, snout for the TOB and install.

 

My old Spec 2+ was installed by the dealership, it was still going strong at 85,000 miles.

 

Really?

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