USMC6217 Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 So this is my rant about the 08 i bought, well bought 6 weeks ago and just got last week. 1) Started with the test drive. I head a very loud ticking coming from the driver's side and i knew the ticking wasnt the normal subaru tick so after a full inspection was done, by an independent subaru shop, and confirmed it was definitely valve train noise, the dealer i bought the car from agreed to pay for the inspection and repair of the valve train. Awesome deal right, i thought so too. The vin fell in the 08 stop sale range but the block had been replaced 10K miles ago, as well as the turbo so i thought the major stuff was done and the car was in amazing shape. 2) A week goes by and still not done. Then i get a call and hear that there is a chipped tooth in the drivers side cam gears which has damaged the timing belt that was new, why not. In the same conversation i am told that the idler pulleys were never changed so now those we going to be changed on the dealers dime, im fine with that. After redoing the valve shims the tick is still there, time for the head to get sent to the machine shop. In the process they find that the subie dealership that did the block did a horrible job putting it together and they had to re tap quite a few holes because they were cross threaded. 3) While at the machine shop some valve guides were found bad, cool just fix it. The guys doing the maintenance did not want to put there name on the whole job unless they knew the whole motor was sound so they talked the dealer into ponying up the cash for the passenger side head to get inspected, more done at someone else's expense.....great, i've got nothing but time. 4) This "winter storm" and i use the term very loosely hit south carolina and everyone freaks out, so of course the machine shop is closed and waiting parts. 5) They finally got it done and back together 3 test drives and its all great. Once the dealer got the final talley he decides he doesnt want to pay for the pulleys, ill eat the 250 for the other maintenance that was done, i mean a basically new motor for 250 who wouldn't pay it. 6) The day before i pick up the car i am told that the sway bar bushings and LCA bushings are shot as well, guess i didnt test drive the car enough right, I should have gotten under the car to look at the bushings, that is all me. 7) I went to pick the car up, pay for my share and leave, finally with the LGT that ive been looking for for quite a while. I top off at the gas station, then start up and BAM CEL. I was 6 miles away so i drove back. The code was for cyl 1 and 3 misfire, the car ran fine. Then i am told it is because of a vaccum line going to the head they thought might be a problem but was out of stock, i work in maintenance so i understand this. They band aid it until it can come in and i drive away with no CEL and a smooth running car. 8) 3 days ago i start my car back up and the CEL is back again, cyl 1,2, and 3 misfire, i call them and they told me it is still the vaccum line. I checked all the plugs, connections, everything was good, so i cleared it and it hasnt come back since. I have an AP on the was to get some logs and find out what is really going on. 9) Tonight i was adjusting the headlight level, bc it was pointing at the ground, only to find out some jack wagon has no idea how to do headlights. I mean common now, what was going on was some someone tried shoving a square peg into a round hole. The passenger side was so bad that the receptacle for the clip was completely broken off and the drivers side wasnt installed correctly. I am fixed the headlights, the passengers side as best as i could, and will re align them tomorrow. 10) To top it all off i just realized i was at 1/4 tank and only driven 145 miles, that was reset when i topped off, so something aint working but it drives great, i dont get it. I apologize for the long rant but of all people I am sure there are people here who understand. This is my first subie and i love it, but man there is a long road ahead. Thanks for reading!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Bro re-type this so it can be read. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USMC6217 Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 I sincerely apologize, as i was typing i was getting more and more mad and kept going, not even looking at what i was writing. I will haze myself for the foul up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Man I hope it's a line and not more! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonnyJagaru Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 If I can be candid, this is just the reason to pay more for a used car. I mean, you'd stand a better chance of getting one that hadn't been shagged like this. I'm sure it'll be fine once the work is all done, but I doubt you'd have saved any money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian3676 Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Sucks, I had the same crappy experience. Got the car from a dealer, but it was brought up from Califorina on auction. Someone snapped the coil pack bolt and super glued the coil on so it would not fall off, on my way to another city on the highway the coil pack fell off and left me stranded. I had to get a block of wood and wedge it in to make it home. Easy out snapped off in bolt, pulled head off and found motor was toast inside from lack of oil. Tear motor down and found it had broken oil pick up. Entire motor had to be re built. Then within 500 miles after motor, found radiator was leaking, MAF was bad, replaced those, and 200 miles after that fuel pump died. Dealer didn’t help one dime. When doing all this realized the car used to be built up, had a ACT racing clutch, lightweight flywheel, after market turbo, down pipe, intake, poly bushings all up front, front mount intercooler (front bumper had been trimmed on the inside so I assumed) and green plugs for loading a map from AccessPort were hanging down. Teach me a lesion to look better next time. Short version, consider your self lucky for a nice dealer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 If I can be candid, this is just the reason to pay more for a used car. I mean, you'd stand a better chance of getting one that hadn't been shagged like this. I'm sure it'll be fine once the work is all done, but I doubt you'd have saved any money. What does price paid have to do with anything? By your logic I should have paid the asking price for the car instead of getting it for $5k off and the car would magically be better? Few dealer compression test or do anything more then visually inspect and change fluids. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USMC6217 Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 Sucks, I had the same crappy experience. Got the car from a dealer, but it was brought up from Califorina on auction. Someone snapped the coil pack bolt and super glued the coil on so it would not fall off, on my way to another city on the highway the coil pack fell off and left me stranded. I had to get a block of wood and wedge it in to make it home. Easy out snapped off in bolt, pulled head off and found motor was toast inside from lack of oil. Tear motor down and found it had broken oil pick up. Entire motor had to be re built. Then within 500 miles after motor, found radiator was leaking, MAF was bad, replaced those, and 200 miles after that fuel pump died. Dealer didn’t help one dime. When doing all this realized the car used to be built up, had a ACT racing clutch, lightweight flywheel, after market turbo, down pipe, intake, poly bushings all up front, front mount intercooler (front bumper had been trimmed on the inside so I assumed) and green plugs for loading a map from AccessPort were hanging down. Teach me a lesion to look better next time. Short version, consider your self lucky for a nice dealer. So at least someone else feels my pain on this. Things starting to turn up maybe, the accessport will be here today as opposed to tomorrow so I can at least get a log and see whats going on. I thought I looked good enough and you have no idea how happy I was the dealer was real good to work. Its just been one thing after another though. When I do all the bushings I am going to do the sway bars also, might as well if I am going to be there. Everything I have looked at so far the car is stock and has remained that way, just owned by someone who should not have been doing their own work, I mean how do you scree up light bulbs. Last things, does anyone know of a good dash cleaning agent that wont damge or discolor it, the dealer must have used ghetto glow for the dash and now im leave with a sticky residue that won't come off. I have access to some good stuff but im not so sure its good for a dash, it will clean the crap out of an F-18 though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 Before you tune get a compression test done to make sure the rings are good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USMC6217 Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 It was done when the motor was put back together, and checked good. If it came back with a bad cylinder I would definitely have SOA because the block just hit 10k mile and it was done by a dealer. Im gonna get a log first before flashing the stage 1 tune to make sure all is running good. Does anyone have an example of a stock log, I know not all cars are going to be the same but just to get a good reference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 It was done when the motor was put back together, and checked good. If it came back with a bad cylinder I would definitely have SOA because the block just hit 10k mile and it was done by a dealer. Im gonna get a log first before flashing the stage 1 tune to make sure all is running good. Does anyone have an example of a stock log, I know not all cars are going to be the same but just to get a good reference. It might be worth having a local tuner or even an e-tune done. This gets you eyes on the motor by a pro and a better tune then an OTS Cobb map. My cobb stage 2 made 14.8psi and my street tune got 16.5 to say I was happier is an understatement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USMC6217 Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 I was actually looking into pdx's tunes, you cant beat 150 bucks and their reviews are great. I simply dont have the time to drive over an hour away to the nearest tuner. The OTS stage 1 map is conservative enough that it shouldnt hurt to run a tank of 93 with it and see how it does. I have a feeling someone may have done an open source tune on it before and never flashed the stock back, no physical proof of it, just call it a hunch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian3676 Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 I had a pdx tune. It was ok. Better then stock but nothing great. I now got re tuned from Dave at cryo. A real e tune. Pdx is just a map not a tune. Cryo is same money and car feels stronger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USMC6217 Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 Correction the nearest tuner is almost 6 hours away, FML. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 You can do it remotely Dave @ Cryo or infomous tuning out of CA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USMC6217 Posted February 19, 2014 Author Share Posted February 19, 2014 Looks like cryo it is, probably gonna wait till the dp install for the stage 2 tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xplosivo1 Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 War hound, don't use plexus or scrubby bubbles on your dash...no good! Just use some Dawn dishsoap and hot water. When it's clean use 303 Aerospace Protectant. Did you buy your Subi local or in Savannah? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USMC6217 Posted February 20, 2014 Author Share Posted February 20, 2014 I bought it in Charleston. I figured the scrubby bubbles was a bad idea, ive tried oxy clean, goo gone and countless other things all tp no avail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yardie Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 Xplosivo, you tried Dawn and it cleaned it up? I have a similar problem to USCM6217 but our LGT's dash it's also brittle, sometimes your finger nail takes pieces out of the cluster housing when you grab the steering wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holla Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 You'll always roll the dice when buying a used car. Unknowingly the oil pick up was cracked on my car when I bought it. Motor blew up the day I took delivery. Everything was replaced under warranty but it was still a 6 week hassle to get the car back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xplosivo1 Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 Xplosivo, you tried Dawn and it cleaned it up? I have a similar problem to USCM6217 but our LGT's dash it's also brittle, sometimes your finger nail takes pieces out of the cluster housing when you grab the steering wheel. I was only thinking the soul-glo would come off with dawn and hot water. If the material has begun to break down it might not be correctable with traditional cleaners. I'm not sure what the dash in our cars is made of, but if it has properties similar to vinyl, products that contain silicone will cause damage if used long term. There is a product called pristine that will probably do what you need it to do, but it's pricy. I bought a whole kit and used it in leather restoration, the pristine clean that came in the kit cleaned plastic and vinly better than anything i've ever seen. Link: http://www.leatherique.com/products.html Also, you may be able to find more specific solutions on http://www.autopia.org/forum/ Good Luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 20, 2014 Share Posted February 20, 2014 Look up OCDetails, a member on here for ideas about cleaning the car. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yardie Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 Thanks MAX and Xplosivo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USMC6217 Posted February 22, 2014 Author Share Posted February 22, 2014 Ny wife thought no one would know what I was talking about if I said soul-glo or ghetto-glo when it comes to the residue on the dash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike07LGT Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 I was actually looking into pdx's tunes, you cant beat 150 bucks and their reviews are great. I simply dont have the time to drive over an hour away to the nearest tuner. The OTS stage 1 map is conservative enough that it shouldnt hurt to run a tank of 93 with it and see how it does. I have a feeling someone may have done an open source tune on it before and never flashed the stock back, no physical proof of it, just call it a hunch. You dont have time to drive an hour away to make sure that your car is tuned properly? Really?? honestly you are asking for problems in my opinion.... good luck with everything 03 WRB WRX (RIP) 04 JBP STI (sold) 07 DGM Legacy GT (RIP) 12 OBP STI (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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