Here is my ej22e turbo recipe.

[JaQuan15]

Easiest route would be to buy a wrecked Baja turbo and swap everything over. Or buy a wrecked wrx or STi and swap everything over and have iwire merge the harness. I don't think third gens play as nice with a simple (lol) turbo swap like blankdeluxe did.

 

I totally understand what you're saying . Is swapping the engine over hard ? & approximately how much does jobs like that usually run for ?

[Zerohour]

If you're paying a shop...several thousand dollars. Swapping something across takes days (not hours) worth of intense work.

[93ej22]

Agreed it is a very in depth process. If you are mechanically apt but not real confident on your finalizing skills swap the engine itself and leave the wiring, plumbing and troubleshooting to a shop will save you at least a half day of labor cost... Still in the thousands tho i would think

[monkeyposeur]

I totally understand what you're saying . Is swapping the engine over hard ? & approximately how much does jobs like that usually run for ?

 

Yeah, an engine swap is about the most difficult mechanical job for someone with limited experience unless you have already done a swap or two and know what you are doing.

 

Let's say you want to do all the labor yourself. You would need all the tools, an engine hoist, which would set you back at least $500 (I'm just rough guessing here, I have a lot more than that invested in tools.). Maybe you get lucky and find a wrecked Baja for $3-4k. Maybe you get even luckier and it runs great and you only need to spend $800 for gaskets, fluids, timing components (cuz you'd be stupid not to do it while the engine is out), $200-300 to get the heads checked out and decked w/new valve guides & seals, replace a valve or two if it needs it, shims, etc. Then make sure you have $1-2k for stuff you break or don't anticipate you need... It all adds up.

 

I'd guess you'd need at least $6k if everything worked out perfectly. Having a shop do the work is another story.

 

You might want to look into purchasing a nose cut from Japan. There were some really good third gen turbo models. Start looking on ebay to get an idea of what the cost would be. Basically vendors will chop the front off a Subaru with the engine, harness, axles, transmission, interior, and front end intact and ship it to you for $6k or so. Then you can swap everything over. Most have low mileage (50-60k) and you get all teh JDM goodies.

 

If your only car is the car you want to do the swap on then you better get a bike for the 6 months it will take to do the swap, or a cheap Honda.

 

I'm not trying to be a naysayer, just letting you know what a swap entails for a first timer. I researched and purchased parts for years to swap a 22T/205 hybrid into my 95 L. I ended up buying a WRX with a blown engine because it was simpler.

[JaQuan15]

Yeah, an engine swap is about the most difficult mechanical job for someone with limited experience unless you have already done a swap or two and know what you are doing.

 

Let's say you want to do all the labor yourself. You would need all the tools, an engine hoist, which would set you back at least $500 (I'm just rough guessing here, I have a lot more than that invested in tools.). Maybe you get lucky and find a wrecked Baja for $3-4k. Maybe you get even luckier and it runs great and you only need to spend $800 for gaskets, fluids, timing components (cuz you'd be stupid not to do it while the engine is out), $200-300 to get the heads checked out and decked w/new valve guides & seals, replace a valve or two if it needs it, shims, etc. Then make sure you have $1-2k for stuff you break or don't anticipate you need... It all adds up.

 

I'd guess you'd need at least $6k if everything worked out perfectly. Having a shop do the work is another story.

 

You might want to look into purchasing a nose cut from Japan. There were some really good third gen turbo models. Start looking on ebay to get an idea of what the cost would be. Basically vendors will chop the front off a Subaru with the engine, harness, axles, transmission, interior, and front end intact and ship it to you for $6k or so. Then you can swap everything over. Most have low mileage (50-60k) and you get all teh JDM goodies.

 

If your only car is the car you want to do the swap on then you better get a bike for the 6 months it will take to do the swap, or a cheap Honda.

 

I'm not trying to be a naysayer, just letting you know what a swap entails for a first timer. I researched and purchased parts for years to swap a 22T/205 hybrid into my 95 L. I ended up buying a WRX with a blown engine because it was simpler.

 

I appreciate that a lot brotha . It sounds like a long and hard process unforunately . I like the idea of building my engine up and adding a turbo but it seems just as hard as doing a swap . I would love to throw a turbo kit on my engine but I know I would be spending 1k on it easily . Maybe it might be the cheaper alternative .

[Dangerzone3]

Blankdeluxe, What fuel were you using when you were running 5psi with no tune on the ej22e?

 

I only read through half of this thread and didn't see anything about the fuel you used.

 

I'm guessing you were using 91 even with 5psi and no tune?

[Zerohour]

I've been running mine on 93 pump gas. We have regular access to 93 in my area. I suspect you could still run lower octane(meaning 87 or 89), but would not recommend it.

[Fallen4Futral]

I have writen a full write up on this process on my website

http://turbotimer.org/2016/01/so-you-want-to-turbo-an-ej22e/

Should give you all the information you need to do this and piece of mind for it's reliability.

[Succulent Bass]

I have read this thread a few times and just finished reading Fallen's write up on his website. Now, I will be doing this but a little differently come this July.

 

Here's what I have laying around right now:

--V4 STI heads

--Phase 2 EJ22 with JE Pistons, Manley rods and King Racing bearings

--WRX exhaust manifold/header

--Invidia cat-less up pipe

--Invidia cat-less 3" down pipe

--I will have a full 3" exhaust made by a local shop

--06 STI intercooler

--TD04L-13T

--WRX/STI BPV

--Everything off of an EJ20K, just no heads

 

This is all going into my 97' LGT. I have seen a lot of people on Legacy Owners Worldwide running N/A-T setups of 8 PSI with plenty of miles on them, some over 50K without any failure. Outside of LegacyGT.com I have seen time and time again that the stock 22E block can handle as much abuse as an EJ205 block, if not a little more. Even the rods and pistons can handle close to 375 WHP before they start failing. The pistons aren't meant for boost but they are strong and aren't as prone to ring land failure as EJ205 pistons.

 

Questions:

--Do I need a different IACV than the 20K?

 

--How can I run cat-less on the stock ECU? I'm pretty sure it will cause a CEL without the upstream (among other things) but I've seen plenty of people remove the downstream cat as it is only for emissions. I don't know if I missed something somewhere but I know the factory mapping takes input from the front oxygen sensor during closed loop fueling, so if I'm not running an upstream cat how is it supposed to take that data in?

 

--I have a full Greddy E-manage Ultimate and my tuner used one on his old BD6. I was told that these units have an issue known as "timing drift" (the overall timing can drift +/-5 degrees) so I'm straying away from it, but is it a good setup to run? It doesn't seem like a very popular option for any application. I'm working with a tuner in Australia to find a plug and play Link standalone but that will probably be out of my budget for a while.

 

--What injectors would be good to run? I have 25D injectors, 20K injectors, and 06' STI injectors. I know I can't swap injectors without a tune, but assuming I could get it tuned what would I be looking at.

 

I know this is a pretty old thread but if anyone is willing to chime in that would be cool.

[wtdash]

Questions:

--Do I need a different IACV than the 20K?

>>> A brief Google search it looks the same as the '90-'98 EJ22/25 series. so should be OK.*

--How can I run cat-less on the stock ECU? I'm pretty sure it will cause a CEL without the upstream (among other things) but I've seen plenty of people remove the downstream cat as it is only for emissions. I don't know if I missed something somewhere but I know the factory mapping takes input from the front oxygen sensor during closed loop fueling, so if I'm not running an upstream cat how is it supposed to take that data in?

 

>>>You can get a Cobb or other CATTED DP, but doesn't have to be - have a bung added near the top - where it connects to the Turbo. Worked OK on my '98 Forester project (same engine/ECU as your '97).

 

--I have a full Greddy E-manage Ultimate and my tuner used one on his old BD6. I was told that these units have an issue known as "timing drift" (the overall timing can drift +/-5 degrees) so I'm straying away from it, but is it a good setup to run? It doesn't seem like a very popular option for any application. I'm working with a tuner in Australia to find a plug and play Link standalone but that will probably be out of my budget for a while.

 

>>>The EMU tuning may depend on the tuner. There are lots of people running them. There are other options, but nothing plug and play.

 

--What injectors would be good to run? I have 25D injectors, 20K injectors, and 06' STI injectors. I know I can't swap injectors without a tune, but assuming I could get it tuned what would I be looking at.

 

>>>25d = 270cc (red side-feeds); 20K = 480cc (yellow side-feeds - require EJ20G/K Rails); STi=525cc/550 (yellow side-feeds - Fit EJ25D rails) Looking @ in HP/torque? 225-250HP for 480 - 525 injectors - maybe w/the TD04.

 

 

I know this is a pretty old thread but if anyone is willing to chime in that would be cool.

>>>Probably should start new one as yours is more 'swap' than stock turbo'd....IMHO.

 

 

* - What Intake Manifold you planning on using? The '97 GT is 'best' and you can use its Wiring harness, TPS, IAC AND THE EGR which you'll need to figure out what you're going to to about the missing EGR port on the V4 heads.

[blankdeluxe]

[blankdeluxe]

Blankdeluxe, What fuel were you using when you were running 5psi with no tune on the ej22e?

 

I only read through half of this thread and didn't see anything about the fuel you used.

 

I'm guessing you were using 91 even with 5psi and no tune?

 

91 Minimum Always! For anything boosted.

 

 

 

I have read this thread a few times and just finished reading Fallen's write up on his website. Now, I will be doing this but a little differently come this July.

 

Here's what I have laying around right now:

--V4 STI heads

--Phase 2 EJ22 with JE Pistons, Manley rods and King Racing bearings

--WRX exhaust manifold/header

--Invidia cat-less up pipe

--Invidia cat-less 3" down pipe

--I will have a full 3" exhaust made by a local shop

--06 STI intercooler

--TD04L-13T

--WRX/STI BPV

--Everything off of an EJ20K, just no heads

 

This is all going into my 97' LGT. I have seen a lot of people on Legacy Owners Worldwide running N/A-T setups of 8 PSI with plenty of miles on them, some over 50K without any failure. Outside of LegacyGT.com I have seen time and time again that the stock 22E block can handle as much abuse as an EJ205 block, if not a little more. Even the rods and pistons can handle close to 375 WHP before they start failing. The pistons aren't meant for boost but they are strong and aren't as prone to ring land failure as EJ205 pistons.

 

Questions:

--Do I need a different IACV than the 20K?

 

--How can I run cat-less on the stock ECU? I'm pretty sure it will cause a CEL without the upstream (among other things) but I've seen plenty of people remove the downstream cat as it is only for emissions. I don't know if I missed something somewhere but I know the factory mapping takes input from the front oxygen sensor during closed loop fueling, so if I'm not running an upstream cat how is it supposed to take that data in?

 

--I have a full Greddy E-manage Ultimate and my tuner used one on his old BD6. I was told that these units have an issue known as "timing drift" (the overall timing can drift +/-5 degrees) so I'm straying away from it, but is it a good setup to run? It doesn't seem like a very popular option for any application. I'm working with a tuner in Australia to find a plug and play Link standalone but that will probably be out of my budget for a while.

 

--What injectors would be good to run? I have 25D injectors, 20K injectors, and 06' STI injectors. I know I can't swap injectors without a tune, but assuming I could get it tuned what would I be looking at.

 

I know this is a pretty old thread but if anyone is willing to chime in that would be cool.

 

Hey, better late then never right? Let me dust the cob webs off the old brain...

 

The 2.0 IACV should work fine. You just don't want an N/A one with a turbo in the stock location.

 

Running catless...Google it. You'll find your fix.

 

ECU. Megasquirt on a budget.

 

Injectors. The biggest you have. If you have proper engine management you want as much flow as you can get and just don't run them as hard. I don't know the flow rates off hand but a search will tell you which of yours flow the best. Use those.

[blankdeluxe]

 

So this is the transformation over the couple years I had the car. It was a good run, I loved it and it was a blast to drive. I got married and moved across the state and it was the least valuable of my project cars so I had to sell it. I still miss it but I had fun with it while it lasted and worked exactly how I wanted. Put a total of about 12k miles on the turbo setup with no issues. Kid I sold it to blew it up within 3 months of owning it.

 

I still have a 1st gen and my trusty sti killer 4th gen so I'm still running strong in the legacy family.

[Thor294]

damn dude i can't believe its gone. 2nd gen is the best! What a build. I wish I had the time and space like you did to do all of that lol.

 

I'll probably do the WRX/baja/whatever swap, I feel like I'd get more squeeze out of it lol, but more $$$ of course