Lyko Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Sorry, wall of text inc. Hello, I recently bought a Black 2008 Legacy 2.5 GT with 55k miles, it had when i bought it a Invidia Turbo back and I believe they are dba 4000 slotted rotors. I absolutely love this car except for this one issue I am having. When I bought the car I took it to a shop near me that works on Subarus, I was told this car has had a history of wiring "gremlins" and that the previous owner had taken it to the dealership to get rid of it because they had had enough of it. The person also said they they had told the previous owner that the main wiring harness should be replaced to be rid of the problem. They took the car in the shop and noticed that some of the wiring had been replaced but not the main harness as they had suggested. I let there with an accessport and a bad feeling. I drove the car 2 days before I started to noticed any trouble and took the car back to the dealer. When I checked on the car they had the main harness off and told me that there was moisture in the connector, they added some grease or something and sent me on my way, needless to say it hasn't help. Now my main thing is how can it be a wiring gremlin if i can reproduce it on call. If i drive the car lightly to try and keep out of boost and keep the revs under 3-4k I can drive with no problems, but if I start to lean into the throttle it gets dicey. I did some research and i think it might be fuel cut induced by boost spike, I can reproduce the problem using either the normal cobb stg 2 ots map or the low waste gate map. I have logs where it is happening but I'm not sure how to read them, if anyone has any input i would be grateful as i really like this car alot and would like to drive it without any problems. Video [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EsHJ8LqezX0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EsHJ8LqezX0[/ame]datalog1.csvdatalog2.csvdatalog3.csvdatalog4.csv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Do you really want to figure this out or should bring it back to the dealership where you bought it from? Did you get a 30 day warranty? Did they sell you a car with known problems? If either is the case I would be logging it with the dealership as a problem they need to resolve. Boost spike might be a variety of things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PtPixel Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Yup that's a fuel cut. Your car will be overboosting. Are you not getting a CEL when it cuts? You should do. Have you checked all of the vacuum lines surrounding the turbo? If one of them has come loose it can cause your car to run at maximum boost, causing the overboost which is leading to the fuel cut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PtPixel Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Boost spike might be a variety of things. Is the car recording knock at the same time you're getting a spike? Logs show fine knock learning and DAM, both of which look fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyko Posted February 5, 2014 Author Share Posted February 5, 2014 I really want to keep the car, I have a 30 day + 5 yr/100k warranty. I don't mind if the dealer needs to hold the car for a few days to figure it out. But if I can help point them in the right direction to get the car fixed faster, that be great. I'll drive a loaner till i get it back. I don't know if the dealer knew about it or not, when the car falls on its face the check engine light comes on but doesn't store any codes, the cruise indicator also lights up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyko Posted February 5, 2014 Author Share Posted February 5, 2014 Yup that's a fuel cut. Your car will be overboosting. Are you not getting a CEL when it cuts? You should do. Have you checked all of the vacuum lines surrounding the turbo? If one of them has come loose it can cause your car to run at maximum boost, causing the overboost which is leading to the fuel cut. I have checked the lines, they all look good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PtPixel Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 If it's mechanical then it could be worth checking if your boost controller solenoid is working properly and that your wastegate isn't sticking shut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyko Posted February 5, 2014 Author Share Posted February 5, 2014 If it's mechanical then it could be worth checking if your boost controller solenoid is working properly and that your wastegate isn't sticking shut. I'll check in the morning, how can I test it and what should I be looking for. I took the heat shield off the turbo today to look at the actuator and the arm has no adjustments, but it seems like it is under alot of tension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PtPixel Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 To check the wastegate: in the attached picture where the blue, green and red lines intersect is the T joint that is above your turbo. You need to pressurize this line (either with an air compressor or just your breath). It's easiest to disconnect the green line and plug that end of the T, then disconnect the blue line where it attaches to the post-turbo intake. Pressurize the blue line, which will pressurize the red line and force the wastegate open. Can't recall exactly how to check the EBCS, hopefully someone can chime in, but it has something to do with using an LED to see if the solenoid is receiving electrical signals from the ECU. edit: Apparently humans can only blow up to 2.1 psi of pressure... might need to find some other way of pressurizing the line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PtPixel Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Here's how to check a WRX ECBS, will be the same for Legacys. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1327478 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyko Posted February 5, 2014 Author Share Posted February 5, 2014 Cool, ty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cryo Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Did this problem come about only after the install of the cobb map? does the ap pull any code? Dave [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Providing unmatched customer service and a Premium level of Dyno/E-tuning to the Community cryotuneperformance@yahoo.com facebook.com/cryotuneperformance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyko Posted February 5, 2014 Author Share Posted February 5, 2014 Did this problem come about only after the install of the cobb map? does the ap pull any code? Dave I didn't really drive the car with the stock map because of the exhaust that's on it and got the accessport the same day. The AP doesn't pull any codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 I didn't really drive the car with the stock map because of the exhaust that's on it and got the accessport the same day. The AP doesn't pull any codes. Did you do a 'reflash' or did you upload a real time map? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cryo Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Sounds like an issue with the tune or waste gate sticking but an over boost should store a code so not sure. Its really hard to know for sure without knowing what all is fine to the car in the past but the AP overwrote and prior tune so I think your best bet is to find a Subaru performance shop to team up with locally that can examine everything and give you a good idea of the next step. Have a great day. Dave [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Providing unmatched customer service and a Premium level of Dyno/E-tuning to the Community cryotuneperformance@yahoo.com facebook.com/cryotuneperformance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyko Posted February 5, 2014 Author Share Posted February 5, 2014 Yes, I did choose reflash. This morning on the way to work it died coasting down hill, I wasn't even on the gas. I have no idea now, made an appointment with the dealer to take the car in tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyko Posted February 19, 2014 Author Share Posted February 19, 2014 Just want to give an update, the dealer said they can not (or unwilling to) fix the car and they will buy the car back from me and give me a full refund. It's great that the dealer will refund me and all but now I am out of a car. I'm pretty sure after so many weeks they don't still have my old one and I don't want to buy another car just to sell it in a couple weeks or so when I find another Legacy. I'm sure the car will go to some auction somewhere, just a heads up if you see a 2008 Legacy GT black/black 57k miles with Invidia turbo back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted March 8, 2014 Share Posted March 8, 2014 Whats funny is the guy that traded this car in, prior to you buying it, issued a warning to everyone on these forums NOT to buy the car. If im not mistaken he traded to a Carmax or bought it from one then had to return it due to the same problems. Bummer another member ended up with it but at least you got your money back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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